Cyclocross Bike Fit
07-02-15, 09:24 PM
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Cyclocross Bike Fit
Hi All,
I recently purchased a Medium Frame Giant Revolt 2. This is the first bike I have ever owned that hasn't been a mountain bike. I have been having some issues with feeling comfortable on the bike, getting used to the bars, numb hands etc. I rode back to the shop where I purchased the bike and was curious about getting a proper fit. The shop charges $150 for one. When I asked the guy there he kind of talked me out of it saying he wasn't sure if they could fit the type of bike I bought.
Is it true that you can't fit a cyclocross bike such as the Giant Revolt 2 I purchased. I know this isn't a pure road bike or some ten thousand dollar carbon racing machine but I would think the mechanics of the fitting would be the same.
I'm all for spending the $150 for a fit but I don't want to waste my money. The guy at the shop flipped the riser on my bars to raise them a bit and I bought some gloves with gel pads to help the numbing but now I feel awkward in my drops.
Should I just go for the fit?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
I recently purchased a Medium Frame Giant Revolt 2. This is the first bike I have ever owned that hasn't been a mountain bike. I have been having some issues with feeling comfortable on the bike, getting used to the bars, numb hands etc. I rode back to the shop where I purchased the bike and was curious about getting a proper fit. The shop charges $150 for one. When I asked the guy there he kind of talked me out of it saying he wasn't sure if they could fit the type of bike I bought.
Is it true that you can't fit a cyclocross bike such as the Giant Revolt 2 I purchased. I know this isn't a pure road bike or some ten thousand dollar carbon racing machine but I would think the mechanics of the fitting would be the same.
I'm all for spending the $150 for a fit but I don't want to waste my money. The guy at the shop flipped the riser on my bars to raise them a bit and I bought some gloves with gel pads to help the numbing but now I feel awkward in my drops.
Should I just go for the fit?
Thanks in advance for any advice!
07-03-15, 08:45 AM
#2
Banned
Will you be racing CX, on courses that will have you carrying the bike and running up hills?
I guess not its the wrong frame design for that. Revolt 2 (2014) | Giant Bicycles | United States
maybe the bars are too low & you need more than just flipping the stock stem..
buying a 40 degree riser stem, and maybe even adding a stem raiser , then recabling and re-taping the bars (Over gel pads?) for that new Height.
Never been in a City Shop with a fancy, paid for, fit service.. smaller shop we just do Q&A with the customer..
Add: Maybe your Drops need the brake levers moved around on the drop curve, requiring a re taping job.
I guess not its the wrong frame design for that. Revolt 2 (2014) | Giant Bicycles | United States
maybe the bars are too low & you need more than just flipping the stock stem..
buying a 40 degree riser stem, and maybe even adding a stem raiser , then recabling and re-taping the bars (Over gel pads?) for that new Height.
Never been in a City Shop with a fancy, paid for, fit service.. smaller shop we just do Q&A with the customer..
Add: Maybe your Drops need the brake levers moved around on the drop curve, requiring a re taping job.
Last edited by fietsbob; 11-15-15 at 11:04 AM.
11-13-15, 10:21 PM
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412cycle, how'd it work out?
Sorry if this is a new question, but I'm new too. I have a choice between two borrowed bikes.
I'm 5'10". I have two road bikes which fit me well, a newish 55cm seat tube carbon frame, and a vintage 56cm seat tube steel frame. Back when I bought the steel bike, the practice was to get the tallest frame you could stand over, so I only have about 1/2" clearance when standing over it. The carbon frame I have more than 1" of standover clearance.
The two bikes I may borrow for CX are 54 and 56, seat tube, but very close on the top tube length, so we *think* either can be adjusted to fit *close enough*. Of course the saddle will be adjusted to be the same distance from the pedals and the ground. So the question is, given everything else (fit, seat height, bar height, weight, wheels) the same, or close to the same, is there any advantage to a slightly larger or slightly smaller frame for CX?
Would larger mean easier to shoulder? The top tube will be an inch higher above the ground.
One has to kick a leg over the saddle, so when the saddle is adjusted to the same height, then for mounting/dismounting, the two bike are the same, right?
Sorry if this is a new question, but I'm new too. I have a choice between two borrowed bikes.
I'm 5'10". I have two road bikes which fit me well, a newish 55cm seat tube carbon frame, and a vintage 56cm seat tube steel frame. Back when I bought the steel bike, the practice was to get the tallest frame you could stand over, so I only have about 1/2" clearance when standing over it. The carbon frame I have more than 1" of standover clearance.
The two bikes I may borrow for CX are 54 and 56, seat tube, but very close on the top tube length, so we *think* either can be adjusted to fit *close enough*. Of course the saddle will be adjusted to be the same distance from the pedals and the ground. So the question is, given everything else (fit, seat height, bar height, weight, wheels) the same, or close to the same, is there any advantage to a slightly larger or slightly smaller frame for CX?
Would larger mean easier to shoulder? The top tube will be an inch higher above the ground.
One has to kick a leg over the saddle, so when the saddle is adjusted to the same height, then for mounting/dismounting, the two bike are the same, right?
11-17-15, 01:35 PM
#4
Banned
1 , level top tube .. now competition CX frames reshape the top tubed to be a bit broader ovalized
to make the run up sections easier on your shoulder..
no doubt since the legs on you are the same the pedal to saddle distance will be too ..
pick up one of Simon Burney's Cyclocross books now in 3rd edition , for more info.
to make the run up sections easier on your shoulder..
no doubt since the legs on you are the same the pedal to saddle distance will be too ..
pick up one of Simon Burney's Cyclocross books now in 3rd edition , for more info.
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