Raleigh Tamarack Mountain Tour
#51
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dont do drops. the angles are so slack it would put you in a really weird position. maaaybe moustache? they'd have to be really high and close to you though. a jitensha/map bar would be cool. or a swept back bar. if you are going to use swept back bars and if you do have a 22.2 steerer, then take advantage of it and use a long stem, 120mm maybe otherwise the bars may feel too close
#52
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sometimes i put my hands in the middle of my bar to mimic a drop bar.. it's kind of like your body is making a big c shape because the pedals are so far forward of the saddle. not a good position.
#53
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Also, forgot to say, nice Crested Butte! What year is it? I'm guessing '86.
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Low quality pic, but here's what I got : https://www.flickr.com/photos/madktdi...n/photostream/
The part you need : https://www.jbimporters.com/web/check...rt_number=1284
Any LBS, or most any old junk sidepull brakeset should have one...?
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Here is a decent shot of mine.
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its a zimbale... its a lock up bag. i've since ditched that vo rack thank goodness
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The angle of the fork and head tube are so slack that it pushes the rack way out in front of the bike making steering kind of funky. Also I dont like the whole faux Frenchy style of it anyway. It would be better on a delicate low trail hip porteur bike not a manly mountain touring bike haha
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I'm very curious what this feels like once I have mine built/mocked up. I got the frame in last night and plan to use parts on hand to decide its fate. Gonna swing by the coop and see if they have any interesting bars to try out.
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It feels quasi recumbent... In the best possible way!
#63
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The angle of the fork and head tube are so slack that it pushes the rack way out in front of the bike making steering kind of funky. Also I dont like the whole faux Frenchy style of it anyway. It would be better on a delicate low trail hip porteur bike not a manly mountain touring bike haha
On my Crested Butte, I just replaced the janky Sunlite rack with a Blackburn mountain bike front rack, model MTF-1. https://www.blackburndesign.com/racks...l#.UTrMe9bg2So On top of that is a Wald basket. Works good so far.
And if you were looking for a more "manly" porteur rack, may I suggest this?
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=53019
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Found your post and also a Tamarack
Thank you one and all for all the information regarding the 1984 Raleigh Tamarack. I was at Habitat For Humanity Thrift store and saw this exact blue bike for $15. I almost let it go, as I'm trying not to have a large stable of bikes, but.... Fifteen dollars!!!! It's in mint/unused shape. All original. I live in Brevard, NC where a lot of wealthy retirees have vacation homes. So I created my own backstory for this bike. I imagine and older, taller gentleman bought this back in '84, so as to use it when he visited for the sunnier months. He probably wasn't and avid cyclist, but wanted to get some exercise. Perhaps he had this bike out not more than a dozen times. Anyway I have a beautiful vintage bike. If my seven year old is luck I will give it to him someday.
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yes - i know - zombie thread -
so this Raleigh has the 21.1mm quill stem? Is that correct?
I saw some mention in one of the posts saying they wished theirs was 22.2mm, but I was not 100% sure if the Tamarak was 21.1 or not. Most of the time when I see Raleigh and bull moose bars, it's always 21.1mm.
I have one of these Tamaraks for sale locally for $80. I'm rather keen to try a 650b bike, and $80 seems not too bad of an entry fee.....
thanks.
so this Raleigh has the 21.1mm quill stem? Is that correct?
I saw some mention in one of the posts saying they wished theirs was 22.2mm, but I was not 100% sure if the Tamarak was 21.1 or not. Most of the time when I see Raleigh and bull moose bars, it's always 21.1mm.
I have one of these Tamaraks for sale locally for $80. I'm rather keen to try a 650b bike, and $80 seems not too bad of an entry fee.....
thanks.
#66
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I won't comment on that. Instead I'll comment on you misspelling the name of the bike.
Yes, it most likely has the 21.1 stem. But don't let it be a deal breaker, I believe Kalloy makes a stem in that size if you wanted to swap bars. And if I saw an $80 Tamarack here, I'd probably get it, so long as it was in decent shape...
so this Raleigh has the 21.1mm quill stem? Is that correct?
I saw some mention in one of the posts saying they wished theirs was 22.2mm, but I was not 100% sure if the Tamarak was 21.1 or not. Most of the time when I see Raleigh and bull moose bars, it's always 21.1mm.
I have one of these Tamaraks for sale locally for $80. I'm rather keen to try a 650b bike, and $80 seems not too bad of an entry fee.....
thanks.
I saw some mention in one of the posts saying they wished theirs was 22.2mm, but I was not 100% sure if the Tamarak was 21.1 or not. Most of the time when I see Raleigh and bull moose bars, it's always 21.1mm.
I have one of these Tamaraks for sale locally for $80. I'm rather keen to try a 650b bike, and $80 seems not too bad of an entry fee.....
thanks.
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Originally Posted by adventurepdx;[url=tel:22319638
22319638[/url]]I won't comment on that. Instead I'll comment on you misspelling the name of the bike.
Yes, it most likely has the 21.1 stem. But don't let it be a deal breaker, I believe Kalloy makes a stem in that size if you wanted to swap bars. And if I saw an $80 Tamarack here, I'd probably get it, so long as it was in decent shape...
Yes, it most likely has the 21.1 stem. But don't let it be a deal breaker, I believe Kalloy makes a stem in that size if you wanted to swap bars. And if I saw an $80 Tamarack here, I'd probably get it, so long as it was in decent shape...
Any idea how much these way komplete?
32lbs probably?
My lovely bride may not let me buy any more bikes this year. I just got an expressO machine.
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I recently picked up an Elkhorn and yeah, a 21.1 Kalloy is the way to go. I’m also going with a threadless adapter, a Thomson Elite stem, and gonna try some Cowchippers on it. We’ll see if the reach turns out to be an issue …
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I know this is an old thread, but I have a few questions regarding the Raleigh Tamarack. I picked up a Tamarack 22" frame, minus the rims, and derailleurs. Would regular 26" mountain bike rims fit this bike? I am unfamiliar with the 650B rim size, I do not know if it is smaller or larger than the 26" rim. In addition, would derailleurs from a Schwinn World work on the Tamarack? The World has 2 front chain rings and the Tamarack has 3 .
Thank you
Thank you
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I know this is an old thread, but I have a few questions regarding the Raleigh Tamarack. I picked up a Tamarack 22" frame, minus the rims, and derailleurs. Would regular 26" mountain bike rims fit this bike? I am unfamiliar with the 650B rim size, I do not know if it is smaller or larger than the 26" rim. In addition, would derailleurs from a Schwinn World work on the Tamarack? The World has 2 front chain rings and the Tamarack has 3 .
Thank you
Thank you
For wheels you want to look at the Bead Seat Diameter. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
- on 26in wheels, that's 559mm
- on 650b, that's 584mm
About half that number (the radius) is where the brake pads should hit the rim... about.
If the bike is built for 26in wheels, then there are brakes that will allow you to run either, by sliding the pads away from the hub with the larger, 650b wheel.
If the bike is built - the canti-posts located for 650b - I do not think it will work for your frame.
650b wheels can be bought, but it's hard to find the used market. Before buying any wheels, check the rear frame spacing and see you have. 130mm? 135mm? . . maybe they were using 126mm?
-- mostly with 26in wheels bought used, the hub spacing will be 135mm.
Cranks - you can run a double or triple... or single! What will be important is getting the bottom bracket spindle the correct length to space the cranks with the frame.
If you have a crankset, VELOBASE . com can give a starting point for the bottom bracket spindle length you will likely need.
Derailleur - - maybe! If you want indexed shifting.... you're like to be very unhappy with the results. Probably an old Schwinn derailleur will not work well with index shifting. - has to do with spring rates.
Also depends on how many gears you want to cover. 5 cogs - should be no probably. Maybe safe up to 7. If you want 8 or 9 cogs....? oy - not likely to have enough range.
cheers.
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Skimming the thread - I see pics of someone using 650b wheels, but the catalog images say something about 26in wheels. So - do you know for sure which you have?
For wheels you want to look at the Bead Seat Diameter. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
- on 26in wheels, that's 559mm
- on 650b, that's 584mm
About half that number (the radius) is where the brake pads should hit the rim... about.
If the bike is built for 26in wheels, then there are brakes that will allow you to run either, by sliding the pads away from the hub with the larger, 650b wheel.
If the bike is built - the canti-posts located for 650b - I do not think it will work for your frame.
650b wheels can be bought, but it's hard to find the used market. Before buying any wheels, check the rear frame spacing and see you have. 130mm? 135mm? . . maybe they were using 126mm?
-- mostly with 26in wheels bought used, the hub spacing will be 135mm.
Cranks - you can run a double or triple... or single! What will be important is getting the bottom bracket spindle the correct length to space the cranks with the frame.
If you have a crankset, VELOBASE . com can give a starting point for the bottom bracket spindle length you will likely need.
Derailleur - - maybe! If you want indexed shifting.... you're like to be very unhappy with the results. Probably an old Schwinn derailleur will not work well with index shifting. - has to do with spring rates.
Also depends on how many gears you want to cover. 5 cogs - should be no probably. Maybe safe up to 7. If you want 8 or 9 cogs....? oy - not likely to have enough range.
cheers.
For wheels you want to look at the Bead Seat Diameter. https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html
- on 26in wheels, that's 559mm
- on 650b, that's 584mm
About half that number (the radius) is where the brake pads should hit the rim... about.
If the bike is built for 26in wheels, then there are brakes that will allow you to run either, by sliding the pads away from the hub with the larger, 650b wheel.
If the bike is built - the canti-posts located for 650b - I do not think it will work for your frame.
650b wheels can be bought, but it's hard to find the used market. Before buying any wheels, check the rear frame spacing and see you have. 130mm? 135mm? . . maybe they were using 126mm?
-- mostly with 26in wheels bought used, the hub spacing will be 135mm.
Cranks - you can run a double or triple... or single! What will be important is getting the bottom bracket spindle the correct length to space the cranks with the frame.
If you have a crankset, VELOBASE . com can give a starting point for the bottom bracket spindle length you will likely need.
Derailleur - - maybe! If you want indexed shifting.... you're like to be very unhappy with the results. Probably an old Schwinn derailleur will not work well with index shifting. - has to do with spring rates.
Also depends on how many gears you want to cover. 5 cogs - should be no probably. Maybe safe up to 7. If you want 8 or 9 cogs....? oy - not likely to have enough range.
cheers.