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Rethinking SRAM Dual Drive

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Old 08-04-16, 11:03 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Bar End shifters would work too , Cassette/derailleur on the right, internal 3 speed on the left.

Microshift makes Both..

or bike friday split drop bars if he really wants to keep the grip shifters?
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Old 08-04-16, 11:15 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by invisiblehand
You can use a triple with a road cassette with a GS rear derailer. At least that's what Shimano supplies in its road triple group sets.
Oki, but for now there is a MTB (biggest is 32t) at the back and 53, 42, 30 at the front and the total difference in teeth is not for the GS. I think if I make major changes (and keep a der setup) I`d go for two rings in the front instead of a corn cob in the back.

Guess I should ride it a bit more and make a note of what gears I actually use. Waiting for a new front 42 chainring at the moment. It was worn out and the new chain on it gave me a serious chainsuck several times on my last ride. Luckily no damage.
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Old 08-04-16, 01:07 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by randomwon
For those wondering how to place dual drive shifters on dropbars. The solution is very simple. All you need is an accessory bar with a 31.8 mm clamp such as the evo spacebar pictured here. This allows you to slide the 27 speed grip shifter over the bar with plenty of space to spare with your handlebars. Ive had no problems with the shifter using this setup

The DualDrive works with mostly every triple shifter. You can use brifters, triggers or whatever you like. My Dahon Mu P27 for example, comes with X7 triggers, and the Speed Pro TT uses conventional road brifters.
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Old 08-04-16, 01:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by badmother
Oki, but for now there is a MTB (biggest is 32t) at the back and 53, 42, 30 at the front and the total difference in teeth is not for the GS. I think if I make major changes (and keep a der setup) I`d go for two rings in the front instead of a corn cob in the back.

Guess I should ride it a bit more and make a note of what gears I actually use. Waiting for a new front 42 chainring at the moment. It was worn out and the new chain on it gave me a serious chainsuck several times on my last ride. Luckily no damage.
Yep ... I'd call it a MTB cassette. An 11-28 ... raising the bottom end by about 10% ... should take care of the problem if you don't need such a low bottom. (this is a NWT ... right?) 30t chainring to a 28 rear will be something very close to 20 gear inches.

If you're using it for touring and aren't looking for say a narrower crank -- lower q-factor -- my take is that you get very little from going to a double. There is still lots of 9-speed stuff around. It's cheap and durable.

Good luck!
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Old 08-04-16, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by invisiblehand
Yep ... I'd call it a MTB cassette. An 11-28 ... raising the bottom end by about 10% ... should take care of the problem if you don't need such a low bottom. (this is a NWT ... right?) 30t chainring to a 28 rear will be something very close to 20 gear inches.

If you're using it for touring and aren't looking for say a narrower crank -- lower q-factor -- my take is that you get very little from going to a double. There is still lots of 9-speed stuff around. It's cheap and durable.

Good luck!
NWT yes. I`ll look into it. I`ll be able to ride it more in a few weeks
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Old 08-04-16, 03:21 PM
  #31  
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Way back, sun tour had a 3 pulley RD. That took up the extra Chain slack by having the chain path less direct,
but the wrap up was equivalent to a longer direct distance between, swing with just 2 pulleys.

SRam or S-A now offer hybrid cassette and Internal gear Hubs in a single Unit....

Way Way Back[57] I had a 3 speed with a triple cog cluster and a triple crank ,

I did have 3 shift levers to use on the 3 cubed 27 'speed' Sears-Puch J C Higgins..
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Old 08-05-16, 04:14 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Way back, sun tour had a 3 pulley RD. That took up the extra Chain slack by having the chain path less direct,
but the wrap up was equivalent to a longer direct distance between, swing with just 2 pulleys.

SRam or S-A now offer hybrid cassette and Internal gear Hubs in a single Unit....

Way Way Back[57] I had a 3 speed with a triple cog cluster and a triple crank ,

I did have 3 shift levers to use on the 3 cubed 27 'speed' Sears-Puch J C Higgins..

HA! brilliant.

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Old 08-05-16, 04:50 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by randomwon
For those wondering how to place dual drive shifters on dropbars. The solution is very simple. All you need is an accessory bar with a 31.8 mm clamp such as the evo spacebar pictured here. This allows you to slide the 27 speed grip shifter over the bar with plenty of space to spare with your handlebars. Ive had no problems with the shifter using this setup

i'd recommend the Braithwait Bar™©

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Old 08-06-16, 06:23 AM
  #34  
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Really, really dont get why someone would fit trigger shifters on drop bars when racerace brifters work perfectly??

I prefer trigger shifters to gripshift. But drops and brifters are literally made for each other....

Only reason I can think of is cost as it doesnot require brifter purchase.
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Old 08-06-16, 08:58 PM
  #35  
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I don't think brifters work 'perfectly' with SRAM DD.

Originally Posted by bhkyte
Really, really dont get why someone would fit trigger shifters on drop bars when racerace brifters work perfectly??

I prefer trigger shifters to gripshift. But drops and brifters are literally made for each other....

Only reason I can think of is cost as it doesnot require brifter purchase.
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Old 08-07-16, 01:33 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Abu Mahendra
I don't think brifters work 'perfectly' with SRAM DD.
Well they are fitted to bike fridays, dahons and terns (afaik) in this set up. I have 2 brifter dd mezzo conversions that work beautifully.
I feel a DD matched to brifters on bullbars is the ideal set up for fast commuting folders. I use bullbars with upright brake positions made from cut down drops turned upside down.
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Old 08-07-16, 01:45 AM
  #37  
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Hmmm. Ok.

Originally Posted by bhkyte
Well they are fitted to bike fridays, dahons and terns (afaik) in this set up. I have 2 brifter dd mezzo conversions that work beautifully.
I feel a DD matched to brifters on bullbars is the ideal set up for fast commuting folders. I use bullbars with upright brake positions made from cut down drops turned upside down.
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Old 08-07-16, 06:05 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by randomwon
For those wondering how to place dual drive shifters on dropbars. The solution is very simple. All you need is an accessory bar with a 31.8 mm clamp such as the evo spacebar pictured here. This allows you to slide the 27 speed grip shifter over the bar with plenty of space to spare with your handlebars. Ive had no problems with the shifter using this setup

I used to have my Rohloff shifter on my expedition bike located where you have your DualDrive shifters. See first attached photo. But when I am going really slow on uneven terrain when touring with front panniers, there were several times when I wanted to downshift but I was hesitant to move my hand off of the handlebar to shift. A good example is up a steep hill on a poorly maintained gravel road, that required me to keep both hands on the handlebars for steering control. Thus, I decided I really did not like that shifter location.

Last week I changed to the Hubbub Adapter that puts the Rohloff shifter on the end of my handlebar. See second attached photo. This gives me much better steering control when going slow in uneven terrain.

But if you are always on good pavement where it is easy to steer with one hand, then there is no problem with your shifter location.
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Old 08-09-16, 03:45 PM
  #39  
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or this..

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Old 08-09-16, 07:16 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by smallwheeler
or this..

Winner!
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Old 08-10-16, 10:25 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by smallwheeler
or this..

Oh ... that's slick.
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Old 08-10-16, 12:34 PM
  #42  
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Quill stems for 1" threaded headsets are 7/8", and so are straight bars (other than the center)
you did not know this?
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Old 08-10-16, 01:47 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Quill stems for 1" threaded headsets are 7/8", and so are straight bars (other than the center)
you did not know this?
Same with bar ends. I have put bar ends on my trike to get more space for shifters, bell and stuff.
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Old 12-26-16, 05:42 AM
  #44  
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25 months on...

Twenty five months on, and I've had absolutely no problems or issues with the SRAM DualDrive hub. The bike was bought second hand so the hub's been going for longer than that. No mis-shifts, no noises, no discernible resistance, no clickbox falling off, no maintainace woes, no adjustment, no nothing. The thing just works. Period/full stop.
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Old 12-26-16, 12:15 PM
  #45  
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Advantage to Planetary gears is Down shifting while stopped ..

Rolling thru all 14 gears on My Rohloff can be done sitting at a stop sign..

and I havent yet tried to rig up a 'Stupid Low' on my Bike Friday with a 39-53 double crank..

still using it as a 16:53.






...
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Old 12-26-16, 04:18 PM
  #46  
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You often trumpet the Rohloff, Bob, but time and time again--here and elsewhere--you fail to mention the unmentionables. A Rohloff costs a good $1,200 and weighs no less than 1,700 grams. By comparison, a SDD hub costs $135, and weighs 960grams. Sure, when you add up the weight of a cogset and derailleur, you're gonna be at around the weight of a Rohloff, but...but...you haven't paid no $1,200 for those 1,700 grams. At the price of a Rohloff you can buy--and replace--a SDD hub, RD & cogset five times! The sensible money is not on Rohloff. You (should) know that.

Originally Posted by fietsbob
Advantage to Planetary gears is Down shifting while stopped ..

Rolling thru all 14 gears on My Rohloff can be done sitting at a stop sign..

and I havent yet tried to rig up a 'Stupid Low' on my Bike Friday with a 39-53 double crank..

still using it as a 16:53.






...

Last edited by Abu Mahendra; 12-26-16 at 06:45 PM.
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Old 12-26-16, 09:46 PM
  #47  
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Funny this thread would come up as I have been riding in deep light snow on my Swift. On the unplowed bike trail with asphalt at the bottom and 9 inches of light snow once I got going I was able to keep going. I have a studded tire on the front however I have been using the bald 1.6" standard tire on the back and it is working fine. I had not come up with a spare back wheel to stud so I thought I would take it for a slippery spin with just the front studded and the slick in back. I am amazed at how well the slick works in back.

I was wishing I had lower than the 52/32 with the 406 wheel but most of the time I really like the 52/11 high gear. I only use it about 10 percent of the time but I use 7th gear a lot on the flats.
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Old 12-27-16, 07:26 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Way back, sun tour had a 3 pulley RD. That took up the extra Chain slack by having the chain path less direct,
but the wrap up was equivalent to a longer direct distance between, swing with just 2 pulleys.

SRam or S-A now offer hybrid cassette and Internal gear Hubs in a single Unit....

Way Way Back[57] I had a 3 speed with a triple cog cluster and a triple crank ,

I did have 3 shift levers to use on the 3 cubed 27 'speed' Sears-Puch J C Higgins..
Those Austrians made some unusual bikes. Way Way back---I have never seen the 3 cubed shifter system. It would certainly be a classic if you still had it in working order.
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Old 12-27-16, 09:35 AM
  #49  
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Mountain drive crank + BSR 3 speed 2 planetaries , 3rd to 4th is also a double shift..

Crank low range , up to high range, + hub from high 3rd, to low , 1st, , and the inverse 4th to 3rd.

can be done simultaneously , at a slow bogged down in too high a gear on a hill and chainrings barely turning,

Because both are planetary gears , the chain never has to be pushed off 1 cog or chainring to another..

Fwiw R'off does a similar double shift between 7th & 8th.. sequenced internally.


[my father, right after I went in the US Navy , 1966, (HS grad,> viet nam war conscription time) , gave my 3 cubed bike

to the son of a family friend , who promptly let it be stolen]



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Old 12-27-16, 09:46 AM
  #50  
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BTW, used R'off hubs sell for less than full retail ..their robust design makes them a safer buy than a used CF bike/frame.

Got my Koga WTR, whole bike, relatively cheap, only had to get the external oil seals replaced..

(picked up a used Hub and rebuilt the wheel to keep the transportation function going)





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