Buying New Hybrid Giant Bike Roam1, Roam 2 or Toughroad SLR
#51
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Don’t know how I missed your post earlier, anyhow welcome to the forum! You’re not far from me at all, I live in St Pete but I ride the Pinellas Trail into Clearwater and Tarpon Springs most every Saturday. I ride a Trek FXS6 for my weekday fitness rides and take my Surly Ogre out on my Saturday “beer and tacos” ride. . Once you get settled in on your bike we could meet in downtown St. Pete for some tacos !
#52
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what tires would you recommend for it?
#53
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Don’t know how I missed your post earlier, anyhow welcome to the forum! You’re not far from me at all, I live in St Pete but I ride the Pinellas Trail into Clearwater and Tarpon Springs most every Saturday. I ride a Trek FXS6 for my weekday fitness rides and take my Surly Ogre out on my Saturday “beer and tacos” ride. . Once you get settled in on your bike we could meet in downtown St. Pete for some tacos !
I am not familar with the Surly Ogre.. but I dig the name of it.
*just looked up the Surly Ogre.. That bike looks so Rad.. def looks like a Beer and Taco Bike that can take a beating.. I like the style of it.. Rugged..
Last edited by Juggy_Gales; 11-13-17 at 11:47 PM.
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Keep in mind that I use German online stores to buy just about all my stuff(except for the bike(s) themselves), so I get great prices, but I have to deal with their flat rate of postage which is about 20Euro, whether you buy one tyre or 20 tyres.
So when I bought a heap of accessories and whatever, the unit cost savings made the postage cost effectively irrelevant.
There has been the odd time when Chain Reaction or Wiggle or Evans Cycles made more sense, but usually the Germans for me.
Because I really hate changing flat tyres, I went for Schwalbe's Marathon Mondials, where I got the 50mm 29" tyres for 31.01 Euro's.(You need to be logged in to the site to see the price LESS the 19% VAT, which won't apply to American orders).
The Mondials are Schwalbe's 2nd best anti-puncture tyres and close to their longest wearing tyre.
As a folding tyre, it is also easier to get on to the rim than the wired Marathon Plus tyres, which whilst they do provide a bit more puncture protection, are also about 200grams per tyre heavier and aren't as fast.
If you still value flat protection but are more concerned with speed, you could consider either the Schwalbe Marathon Almotion for 25.13 Euro, or the Schwalbe Marathon Supreme for 31.01 Euro
Now throw in some tubes you may need, some brake pads, handlebar grips, pedals etc, and you will find you have got a great deal overall, despite the flat postage cost.
#55
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Keep in mind that I use German online stores to buy just about all my stuff(except for the bike(s) themselves), so I get great prices, but I have to deal with their flat rate of postage which is about 20Euro, whether you buy one tyre or 20 tyres.
So when I bought a heap of accessories and whatever, the unit cost savings made the postage cost effectively irrelevant.
There has been the odd time when Chain Reaction or Wiggle or Evans Cycles made more sense, but usually the Germans for me.
Because I really hate changing flat tyres, I went for Schwalbe's Marathon Mondials, where I got the 50mm 29" tyres for 31.01 Euro's.(You need to be logged in to the site to see the price LESS the 19% VAT, which won't apply to American orders).
The Mondials are Schwalbe's 2nd best anti-puncture tyres and close to their longest wearing tyre.
As a folding tyre, it is also easier to get on to the rim than the wired Marathon Plus tyres, which whilst they do provide a bit more puncture protection, are also about 200grams per tyre heavier and aren't as fast.
If you still value flat protection but are more concerned with speed, you could consider either the Schwalbe Marathon Almotion for 25.13 Euro, or the Schwalbe Marathon Supreme for 31.01 Euro
Now throw in some tubes you may need, some brake pads, handlebar grips, pedals etc, and you will find you have got a great deal overall, despite the flat postage cost.
So when I bought a heap of accessories and whatever, the unit cost savings made the postage cost effectively irrelevant.
There has been the odd time when Chain Reaction or Wiggle or Evans Cycles made more sense, but usually the Germans for me.
Because I really hate changing flat tyres, I went for Schwalbe's Marathon Mondials, where I got the 50mm 29" tyres for 31.01 Euro's.(You need to be logged in to the site to see the price LESS the 19% VAT, which won't apply to American orders).
The Mondials are Schwalbe's 2nd best anti-puncture tyres and close to their longest wearing tyre.
As a folding tyre, it is also easier to get on to the rim than the wired Marathon Plus tyres, which whilst they do provide a bit more puncture protection, are also about 200grams per tyre heavier and aren't as fast.
If you still value flat protection but are more concerned with speed, you could consider either the Schwalbe Marathon Almotion for 25.13 Euro, or the Schwalbe Marathon Supreme for 31.01 Euro
Now throw in some tubes you may need, some brake pads, handlebar grips, pedals etc, and you will find you have got a great deal overall, despite the flat postage cost.
I do want flat protection + speed
#56
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These do look like solid Pedals that I will get and when I am ready to go clipless, these will already be on the bike..
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Something to keep in mind is that there is generally a trade off between flat protection and speed, although some are suggesting that Tubeless may be the Holy Grail here and get around that trade off.
Both the Marathon Supreme and Almotion have tubeless varieties.
Do yourself a favour and have a long browse of Bike24, you will be amazed at their range, whether it is to do with standard bike parts or racks, rack bags, frame bags, saddle bags, locks, tools etc.
#59
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As far as tubeless, I would ask why you want that. As far as I can tell, the main advantage of tubeless is, in mountain biking, it allows you to ride as much lower pressures without pinch flatting. But if you are riding on the road, you will be riding at relatively higher pressures.
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So, I looked at many brands, and types.. Raleigh, Trek, Specialized, Cannondale, Diamondback and Giant..
At first, I knew I wanted a bike.. But didn't know what I was going for.. I knew I didn't want a strictly Road Bike.. But wasn't sure if I wanted to go full Mountain.. so.. I looked at some comfort Bikes.. various brands.. and they were ok.. But I kinda wanted "more".. I had been so out of the loop for years that I didn't understand components and why someone would want one over the other.. so.. I began researching and studying all of the diff types and level of quality.. IE: Shimano Tourney, Altus, Acera, Alivio, Deore, SLX, XT and Sram's line.. I stuck with the Mountain Bike gearing rather than learn much about Shimano 105, Tiagra etc.. Because I wanted hearty gears that could do some trails if need be.. and gearing for inclines if I wanted. Plus.. Rim vs Mechanical Disc vs Hydraulic Disc Brakes.. Then learned about 1X 2X 3X cranks and why people chose them.. I am fine with a decent 3X crank..
I definitely set on FlatBars.. and Id like to be under $1k.. I want Hydraulic Disc brakes.. atleast Acera Grade Components.. and though I want to Mod out the Bike.. I don't want to be in a rush to.. so as I grow in cycling, I could upgrade when I feel I want that bit extra.. when the difference would actually matter..
What really sold me on Giant was.. Giant's Bikes seemed to have most of what I want at prices that seemed to beat out brands like Trek.. and Treks are made at Giant's Factory.. Treks are great bikes.. but every bike of Trek that I found that fit what I wanted.. was over $1k..
Lots of shops around here have tons of Giants for me to look at..
My buddy this weekend bought a Giant Talon 3 which is a great deal for the $520 he paid.. I rode it and it is nice..
Though the Talon is def a strict Mountain bike..
I test Rode the Giant Toughroad SLR 1 today.. and dude.. Holy **** that bike is Light.. I know Carbon road bikes are lighter.. But.. Yo.. haha less than 25lbs.. and even with those big Tires on it, it rides well.. after talking with the people at the store, the guy showed me a bunch of things I could do with the bike later if I wanted to mod it out.. and there are suspension options out there from Rockshox if I wanted to go that route later.. Plus The frame can handle both 27.5/29er wheels/tires.. So If I found myself riding trails more.. I could transform it into a pretty capable hardtail... Im just blabbering a bit now.. but I like options..
the mods Id consider sooner would be a 3X Crank geared with a Bigger Cog like 48 or 50 tooth big cog while maintaining having a mid to high 20's tooth small cog IE: 48/36/26 crankset.. Shimano Deore has a couple choices(not right away)
Id prob also switch to a Deore Shadow rear Derailer(still down the road a bit)
Switching the seat to a Cloud 9(comfy as hell).. Maybe Handlebar ends like the fastroad has..
When I am done.. the Bike will be like a fat wheeled Fastroad SLR1 haha.. Not as quick.. But not much slower either.
I hope I answered thorough enough without going in too many directions
At first, I knew I wanted a bike.. But didn't know what I was going for.. I knew I didn't want a strictly Road Bike.. But wasn't sure if I wanted to go full Mountain.. so.. I looked at some comfort Bikes.. various brands.. and they were ok.. But I kinda wanted "more".. I had been so out of the loop for years that I didn't understand components and why someone would want one over the other.. so.. I began researching and studying all of the diff types and level of quality.. IE: Shimano Tourney, Altus, Acera, Alivio, Deore, SLX, XT and Sram's line.. I stuck with the Mountain Bike gearing rather than learn much about Shimano 105, Tiagra etc.. Because I wanted hearty gears that could do some trails if need be.. and gearing for inclines if I wanted. Plus.. Rim vs Mechanical Disc vs Hydraulic Disc Brakes.. Then learned about 1X 2X 3X cranks and why people chose them.. I am fine with a decent 3X crank..
I definitely set on FlatBars.. and Id like to be under $1k.. I want Hydraulic Disc brakes.. atleast Acera Grade Components.. and though I want to Mod out the Bike.. I don't want to be in a rush to.. so as I grow in cycling, I could upgrade when I feel I want that bit extra.. when the difference would actually matter..
What really sold me on Giant was.. Giant's Bikes seemed to have most of what I want at prices that seemed to beat out brands like Trek.. and Treks are made at Giant's Factory.. Treks are great bikes.. but every bike of Trek that I found that fit what I wanted.. was over $1k..
Lots of shops around here have tons of Giants for me to look at..
My buddy this weekend bought a Giant Talon 3 which is a great deal for the $520 he paid.. I rode it and it is nice..
Though the Talon is def a strict Mountain bike..
I test Rode the Giant Toughroad SLR 1 today.. and dude.. Holy **** that bike is Light.. I know Carbon road bikes are lighter.. But.. Yo.. haha less than 25lbs.. and even with those big Tires on it, it rides well.. after talking with the people at the store, the guy showed me a bunch of things I could do with the bike later if I wanted to mod it out.. and there are suspension options out there from Rockshox if I wanted to go that route later.. Plus The frame can handle both 27.5/29er wheels/tires.. So If I found myself riding trails more.. I could transform it into a pretty capable hardtail... Im just blabbering a bit now.. but I like options..
the mods Id consider sooner would be a 3X Crank geared with a Bigger Cog like 48 or 50 tooth big cog while maintaining having a mid to high 20's tooth small cog IE: 48/36/26 crankset.. Shimano Deore has a couple choices(not right away)
Id prob also switch to a Deore Shadow rear Derailer(still down the road a bit)
Switching the seat to a Cloud 9(comfy as hell).. Maybe Handlebar ends like the fastroad has..
When I am done.. the Bike will be like a fat wheeled Fastroad SLR1 haha.. Not as quick.. But not much slower either.
I hope I answered thorough enough without going in too many directions
RE: Saddles. Big soft saddles like Cloud 9 might seem like a solution but for most, they cause more problems than they solve. You need support on your sit bones. And it is hard to gauge what works until you ride for at least a few weeks straight.
#61
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Im for flat bars for seating position. After I own the bike awhile I'll gauge which direction Im leaning and will first rent a proper drop bar bike and see how I like it. But yes Years ago Ive ridden drop bars and triathlon type bikes. My uncle use to run the iron man so Id use his bike when on vacation. But its Been years.
As for seat.. I just know most of the seats Ive been on.. hurt lol
The toughroad's admittingly was the best of them though I tested.
As for seat.. I just know most of the seats Ive been on.. hurt lol
The toughroad's admittingly was the best of them though I tested.
#62
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As far as bike parts go, I’ve ordered from Wiggle and Evans, and while the price was good it takes some time to get them here. I’ve had very good experiences with Jensen USA, Bike Tires Direct, Modern Bike, and you can’t forget Amazon since they have that distribution center in Brandon, you sometimes get your parts the next day !
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Im for flat bars for seating position. After I own the bike awhile I'll gauge which direction Im leaning and will first rent a proper drop bar bike and see how I like it. But yes Years ago Ive ridden drop bars and triathlon type bikes. My uncle use to run the iron man so Id use his bike when on vacation. But its Been years.
As for seat.. I just know most of the seats Ive been on.. hurt lol
The toughroad's admittingly was the best of them though I tested.
As for seat.. I just know most of the seats Ive been on.. hurt lol
The toughroad's admittingly was the best of them though I tested.
#64
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As far as bike parts go, I’ve ordered from Wiggle and Evans, and while the price was good it takes some time to get them here. I’ve had very good experiences with Jensen USA, Bike Tires Direct, Modern Bike, and you can’t forget Amazon since they have that distribution center in Brandon, you sometimes get your parts the next day !
I just have a thing with personalizing stuff.. making things geared for me..
Oh the cloud 9 I was looking at wasn't that Yuge ass seat its only a lil fatter than the stock seat.. and only slightly wider.
#65
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I thought drop bars have you bent over a lot more
#66
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Nope. If you look closely, you will see the flat bar Fast-road is more aggressive than the drop bar AnyRoad. You can set up your bars more aggressive or more upright.drop bars are, IMO far more versatile. Flat bars loess so.
#67
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#68
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On another note..
The Raleigh Redux 3 Urban Assault Bike that
Retails for $900 can be bought for $550 if you set up a corporate account with a code. Check the specs its a solid cruiser commuter bike. 1x11 with very decent stock
Components.. great bike to leave stock..
The corporate sale code when creating account is:
CYCLE4TAW
The Raleigh Redux 3 Urban Assault Bike that
Retails for $900 can be bought for $550 if you set up a corporate account with a code. Check the specs its a solid cruiser commuter bike. 1x11 with very decent stock
Components.. great bike to leave stock..
The corporate sale code when creating account is:
CYCLE4TAW
#69
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If anyone wants flatbars and is concerned about hand positions, there's many flat bar options out there that give you multi hand positions too.
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I think this all depends on the rider, I'm very uncomfortable in the down position on road bars, much more strain on my neck and back. I guess its from all the years of riding BMX and Motocross that I prefer flatbars, plus I don't have any issues with hand pain and I've road many 100 mile centuries. I find I can change my hand position fine on flatbars, especially with ergo grips, I never have had bar ends either, plus I get more torque climbing hills with flatbars. If you hunched way over with a lot of weight on your hands you will have pain, the object is to get in a riding position where your weight is more towards the seat.
If anyone wants flatbars and is concerned about hand positions, there's many flat bar options out there that give you multi hand positions too.
If anyone wants flatbars and is concerned about hand positions, there's many flat bar options out there that give you multi hand positions too.
Fwiw, I rode a flat bar bike for years and finally fixed my chronic neck pain when I switched to drop bars. The problem with flat bars was, I couldn't set the bars quite right. They were either too high, or too low.
Last edited by MRT2; 11-14-17 at 12:54 PM.
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[QUOTE=Juggy_Gales;19992996]I do like the beefy tire of the toughroad[/bQUOTE]
To each his own. But if you want fast, just know that tire weight is important. Those huge beefy tires might be just the thing on a rough trail, but seriously overkill on pavement, where IMO anything larger than 38 mm is completely unnecessary counterproductive even if you want to go fast. I would say for general use on pavement, tire size of 28 to 38 mm is what I go with, with 700 X 32 being the sweet spot, and no tread.
To each his own. But if you want fast, just know that tire weight is important. Those huge beefy tires might be just the thing on a rough trail, but seriously overkill on pavement, where IMO anything larger than 38 mm is completely unnecessary counterproductive even if you want to go fast. I would say for general use on pavement, tire size of 28 to 38 mm is what I go with, with 700 X 32 being the sweet spot, and no tread.
#73
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Im ok with some tread because I will be going on dirt trails.. they tend to have lots of pebbles etc..
Not to mention.. Im a big boy.. the security of a berfy tire is helpful to me..
Not to mention.. Im a big boy.. the security of a berfy tire is helpful to me..
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Rotating weight is actually kind of important for speed, or more accurately, acceleration. More important than weight in general. And the tires are on the outer part of the wheel so more weight there is felt a lot more than, say, more weight at the hub .
So, what is the difference in weight between a lighter 32 mm tire and a heavier 50 mm tire? a lot. Your basic light weight folding bead 32 mm tire weighs about 300 gms. If you go with something light, you can even shave that down to maybe 250 gms. So 32 mm tires will weigh about 500 to 600 gms for two tires. Now, IDK the exact weight of the Giant tire on the Fast road but using the Schwalbe Big Apple as a benchmark, the 50 mm size weighs in at a whopping 878 gms, or 1756 gms for two tires, or 1,200 gms of extra tire you are hauling around. That is 2.6 lbs of extra tire you are hauling around that you don't need most of the time. And that isn't counting the weight of the extra high volume inner tubes.
Last edited by MRT2; 11-14-17 at 04:34 PM.
#75
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I ordered the Toughroad slr 2. Will prob be here by weekend
Or at most.. Monday..
They are putting a 48 tooth big Cog on crankset for me
Or at most.. Monday..
They are putting a 48 tooth big Cog on crankset for me