aeshultz

[QUOTE=jet sanchEz;20169228]Marinoni offers pretty good prices on paint jobs, usually about $350 Canadian dollars.

They do, and do great work - but- the shipping and taxes going cross-border are almost as much. I checked on having them repaint an '88 Marinoni that I have.
You could try Franklin Frames here in Ohio, Jack does very good paint work, and does a lot for other builders. You can google for his website (there are two sites with the same info- one has better photos). I'll most likely have him do the Marinoni.

63rickert

Went down to the basement and compared your photos to my wife's '73 Colnago Super. Yours shows much more final finish work. When the batch of 'Nagos her bike came from arrived at the shop they were all clearly a step above what we had been seeing all season from other importers. You have an exceptional bike.

Chroming - Can't rechrome until the old chrome is removed. That's done with reverse electrolysis. Touchy process, best not done at all except by those who do it regularly. At the worst if you leave the frame in the tank too long the brass gets removed from the lugs. I have seen that happen. Also super toxic when not done perfectly. The place that does lots of rechrome and does it as a routine part of normal business is velociao.com in Berlin. Everyone there speaks English. Even with the euro very high their prices are surprising. With round trip shipping still below most on good paint and unbeatable on chrome. '72-'74 Colnago Super decals are a regularly stocked item there and are very good indeed.

Franklin Frame mentioned above does fantastic chrome. I would be surprised if they do rechrome but I could be surprised and you could ask. Everything they do is good. Not cheap.

jeirvine 

Thanks for the tips on painting and decals. Franklin is at the top of my list for now, and I'm waiting on a quote. Re-chroming the whole frame is out of the question, but the fork may need it.

I did manage to get the fixed cup out, so it's ready for stripping and painting.

merziac

Good news on the cup.

mikemowbz

Very cool bike, great finishing details and eminently worthy of your resto efforts.

This is the kind of pickup where a little luck and a little legwork yield rewards that give the rest of reason to remain vigilant for that next, unexpected project.

As always, a bike in my size really captures my attention - this one has to be my favourite 'find' I've seen posted here in 2018.

Looking forward to images of the stripped frame...and further progress beyond that point.

aeshultz

I'd be interested in what you hear from Jack (Franklin Frames). I'm waiting for a response from him on one of his bikes I just picked up- I might have to call, as I've been told that's a better way to reach him.


[QUOTE=jeirvine;20176224]Thanks for the tips on painting and decals. Franklin is at the top of my list for now, and I'm waiting on a quote. Re-chroming the whole frame is out of the question, but the fork may need it.

jeirvine 

I got a detailed estimate back from Jack at Franklin in under 24 hrs. I did send him some good pics and details. A lot of it is contingent on whether he's supplying/applying decals/clearcoat, etc. He does the stripping and prep work, so I may just go with it.

repechage

Let him do the whole deal.
But what color?

kimjongill

[QUOTE=jeirvine;20162307]This poppsketchy back and forth emails later it was still there, and after a ~4 hour rainy round trip this morning with my very cool wife, it is now mine. 61 cm - so a perfect fit for me.

From the frame characteristics, it looks like a '73. No significant dents or wrinkles, and the fork is straight. Rear triangle is ~6mm out of alignment as measured at the seat tube, but nothing a competent frame shop can't straighten. RD is Pat 73, and arms are 172.5 (my size) w/no date and in nice shape. No dates on the front hub lock nuts - looks like somebody re-laced radially it to an 80's rim and the original dated lock nuts probably went then. FD is post '78. BB is in great shape and had aluminum crank bolts. Seatpost and stem are milled, and big ring drilliumed, but they don't look like factory work. Pedals are Superleggera (not SR). The brake levers are the early longer style with round cable holes.

As of now I just need to get the fixed cup and stem out. Both are soaking. Here is the as-found pic from the ad. I'll post more progress pics as it goes. I'm very glad it ended up being worth the trip.



Nice bike!

Don Buska

Sorry to take you off topic folks, but I have a question on the colored stripped seat-tube decal. I've seen that exact style used on other bikes, lately on some 3Rensho and Cherubim bikes. Is there some special meaning to that style as they are very much the same except the logo and lettering is specific to the manufacturer naturally? You'll also notice that Cherubim has a different order for the colored bands.

BTW, here is a Cherubim version:

CO_Hoya 

They indicate a world championship win by a rider using a bike built by the maker (link).

Drillium Dude 

If a builder hasn't won a World Championship, they will often jumble up the order of the bands. The "official" order is: blue, red, black, yellow, green. I'm a little surprised that the order is mixed up on the Colnago bands, but then again, I believe it may be a repaint and that means the band decals may be inaccurate replacements.

DD

Don Buska

Thanks for the lesson on the "World Champion" decals. Something new learned today and it's still early

repechage

Very good DD, I usually catch that but they are inverted on the subject frame... My bikes show correct.
Could always be a vendor error.
Yes, seen lots of creative license over the years messing with the order, adding black key-lines between the colors... variations of hues.
It did catch my eye that the downtube graphic is pretty big... kind of as big as the next release graphic package that showed up in '74 and was "all-in" in 1975, along with the switch to pressure sensitive adhesive.
(never liked that)

jeirvine 

I got a good quote form a local chrome shop for the fork. My instructions will be to:
1. Don't chrome the threaded portion.
2. Don't chrome the crown race seat area.
3. Don't lose the lug definition and sharpness by excess grinding or polishing.
4. Bake immediately to prevent hydrogen embrittlement.

Any other advice? This will be my fist time.

63rickert

"Any other advice." Yes. Ask them if they have ever done this before. Ask them if they are familiar with thin wall tubular brazed structures. The Paramount Room at Cortland and Kostner used to get this one wrong and not just once. A local shop that mostly works on motorcycles and cars is very likely to get it wrong.

Still using Franklin Frame? Ask Jack Trumbull for advice. Ask him if he can take this part of the project. If he is reluctant or if he is very high priced there is a good reason for that.

jeirvine 

Well, I stopped by, and it's a nope. They had never heard of embrittlement, and seemed distracted when I tried to explain what needed masking. So I already have a quote for paint and quote from Franklin, and it will be done there. The quote he gave is exactly what's on the Franklin website, just less for the fork, since it's just the crown that needs high polish.

RunForTheHills

I had Ed Litton do a repaint/rechrome/restoration of a 71ish Colnago Super a few years ago. I am a little embarrassed that I still have to finish the build.

merziac

Litton is Merz's go to guy, can't be beat. Probably wrong coast for the blue one and better get the chrome done while its still being done.

RunForTheHills

Yes, Ed had just lost his chrome shop and had to find another one to do mine.

merziac

How many "few years ago" was it? Wouldn't be surprised if the one that did yours isn't doing it anymore either.

RunForTheHills

About three years ago

tyler_fred

WOW! That’s a lot of framesets hanging behind your Colnago!!

merziac

That would be Litton's shop I think?

repechage

Looks like. Mine was hangoing around there for 26 weeks.