Racer Tech Thread
02-02-17, 10:40 AM
#4551
VeloSIRraptor
given that a taller rear actually stabilizes the bike, the question seems to actually be about the front wheel.
I'd go with valygrl's suggestion and try it with a low profile front - the surface area difference between those two bikes is pretty significant.
I spent two years racing a narrow 60mm front and a box section rear (well, a 28mm deep PT setup, but w/e)
I was in some incredibly windy races with that setup and didn't get blown around, and I've never been a tremendous bike handler, but YMMV.
Fit being identical on a bike doesn't (as you've seen) translate across other characteristics - trail and weight distribution make a whole lot of difference.
I'd go with valygrl's suggestion and try it with a low profile front - the surface area difference between those two bikes is pretty significant.
I spent two years racing a narrow 60mm front and a box section rear (well, a 28mm deep PT setup, but w/e)
I was in some incredibly windy races with that setup and didn't get blown around, and I've never been a tremendous bike handler, but YMMV.
Fit being identical on a bike doesn't (as you've seen) translate across other characteristics - trail and weight distribution make a whole lot of difference.
02-02-17, 10:43 AM
#4552
VeloSIRraptor
it felt like a totally different bike.
02-02-17, 02:50 PM
#4553
once a runner
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: bay area
Posts: 511
Bikes: n+1
Mentioned: 35 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 270 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
yeah... the first 2 setups look fine, that 3rd pic though...
OK, so zero-dollar, zero-commitment testing option, take the front wheel off the rain bike, put it on the Cervelo, ride it in the wind. You have your answer about whether the wheel helps. If it does, you can keep riding that combo, or buy a prettier low profile front wheel. Does not have to be carbon, skinny alu wheels are plenty light, so it doesn't have to cost a lot. Since it's not your permanent set up, just live with the aesthetics those few times you use it.
02-02-17, 03:09 PM
#4554
Senior Member
I did that once so decided to use the non-aero front I usually pack. Pulled out the wheel bag with my training clincher in it. It wasn't in there - it was my 60mm front. So I raced the 75mm because I don't notice much difference between the wide but sort of V shaped 60 and the wide U shaped 75 in wind.
__________________
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
02-02-17, 03:12 PM
#4555
Senior Member
I don't change pads between carbon and aluminum. I haven't trained much outside for the past two years but in 2010-11 I rode a lot outdoors on alum rims and raced on carbons, zero brake pad swaps, zero problems. Wore through 2+ sets of pads (KoolStop black). Currently on Koolstop salmon/black pads but I rarely train outside anymore so I don't brake on alum rims much.
__________________
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
02-02-17, 04:20 PM
#4557
VeloSIRraptor
02-02-17, 04:29 PM
#4558
VeloSIRraptor
actually, they do exist - not nearly as common though -
I know some years ago there was a link on this forum to a guy who did almost this precise study -
while I don't have a link, maybe this will help your digging - if you want to do some digging, i think it was about 4 years ago:
I know some years ago there was a link on this forum to a guy who did almost this precise study -
while I don't have a link, maybe this will help your digging - if you want to do some digging, i think it was about 4 years ago:
one of his conclusions was that the 16/20h low profile wheel sets like DA 7900 (current at that point) weren't particularly far off a 50mm deep set of carbon rims w/ 20/24h or 24/24h lacing. Additionally, he ran the math backing up why some wheels like old-school Shamals w/ 12/16 lacing felt so fast - .... and it's because they were.
given better rim profiles to match up w/ tyre profiles (which wasn't really being studied like it is now), I have no doubt that a 25-35mm profile w/ a nicely matched up tyre and lower spoke count is giving up very very little to deeper rims.
02-02-17, 04:43 PM
#4559
fuggitivo solitario
actually, they do exist - not nearly as common though -
I know some years ago there was a link on this forum to a guy who did almost this precise study -
while I don't have a link, maybe this will help your digging - if you want to do some digging, i think it was about 4 years ago:
I know some years ago there was a link on this forum to a guy who did almost this precise study -
while I don't have a link, maybe this will help your digging - if you want to do some digging, i think it was about 4 years ago:
one of his conclusions was that the 16/20h low profile wheel sets like DA 7900 (current at that point) weren't particularly far off a 50mm deep set of carbon rims w/ 20/24h or 24/24h lacing. Additionally, he ran the math backing up why some wheels like old-school Shamals w/ 12/16 lacing felt so fast - .... and it's because they were.
given better rim profiles to match up w/ tyre profiles (which wasn't really being studied like it is now), I have no doubt that a 25-35mm profile w/ a nicely matched up tyre and lower spoke count is giving up very very little to deeper rims.
02-02-17, 04:51 PM
#4560
VeloSIRraptor
02-02-17, 06:35 PM
#4562
Senior Member
__________________
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
"...during the Lance years, being fit became the No. 1 thing. Totally the only thing. It’s a big part of what we do, but fitness is not the only thing. There’s skills, there’s tactics … there’s all kinds of stuff..." Tim Johnson
02-05-17, 02:56 PM
#4563
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,569
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1851 Post(s)
Liked 678 Times
in
429 Posts
I was installing a new brake cable on my Sram Aerolink brakes, when the arm where the cable bolts in snapped, so I cannot bolt the cable in. Brake is essentially useless.
I went on eBay to see about buying just a rear Aerolink, and I found another guy selling one with the exact same problem.
That got me thinking, and I checked the other five Aerolink brakes in my house (three sets), and the two oldest brakes - on the same bike - have visible stress fractures in the same place. I'm no longer comfortable riding that bike with the brakes in that condition. Make me wonder if I were to suddenly pull on my brakes too hard, would it snap, causing the brakes to go out?
I'm taking the broken brake and the two with stress fractures to my shop tomorrow. I think it warrants a call to Sram. But depending on what Sram says - they have a good history of warrantying things - I could be needing to purchase two new sets of brakes.
I went on eBay to see about buying just a rear Aerolink, and I found another guy selling one with the exact same problem.
That got me thinking, and I checked the other five Aerolink brakes in my house (three sets), and the two oldest brakes - on the same bike - have visible stress fractures in the same place. I'm no longer comfortable riding that bike with the brakes in that condition. Make me wonder if I were to suddenly pull on my brakes too hard, would it snap, causing the brakes to go out?
I'm taking the broken brake and the two with stress fractures to my shop tomorrow. I think it warrants a call to Sram. But depending on what Sram says - they have a good history of warrantying things - I could be needing to purchase two new sets of brakes.
02-05-17, 05:41 PM
#4564
Senior Member
Tested a stages last week against my quarq to see what kind of difference there was...the idea was to buy a cannondale stages so I can use the Cannondale crank and Spider Rings that came with my caad12 and put the Quarq on the TT bike.
The stages read 25 watts high on a 2 hour tempo ride...definitely cant get a Stages with that kind of difference.
Which leads me to getting a Cannondale Quarq (which im finding they dont make anymore...)or trying to find a way to get a Cannondale SRM. I know there are a few SRM users here, but are they really worth the extra coin? I dont seem many used ones on ebay, and the ones that are listed are pretty damned close to retail.
I want to use this crankset and still have power...are there any other options other than Quarq or SRM?
The stages read 25 watts high on a 2 hour tempo ride...definitely cant get a Stages with that kind of difference.
Which leads me to getting a Cannondale Quarq (which im finding they dont make anymore...)or trying to find a way to get a Cannondale SRM. I know there are a few SRM users here, but are they really worth the extra coin? I dont seem many used ones on ebay, and the ones that are listed are pretty damned close to retail.
I want to use this crankset and still have power...are there any other options other than Quarq or SRM?
02-05-17, 06:18 PM
#4565
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Western MA
Posts: 15,669
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 9 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
How do you know that the Quarq is accurate?
I've had plenty of problems with my SRM products but accuracy wasn't one of them.
I've had plenty of problems with my SRM products but accuracy wasn't one of them.
02-05-17, 07:20 PM
#4566
Senior Member
Someone else said the same thing, but im pretty sure that isnt the case
Ive had issues with my right leg/hip over the last few years, and it is weaker than my left (I go to PT every other month to keep things in balance, but there is still the strength difference between the two legs). I even had to end my season early a few years ago because it was hurting bad enough. When I really start to get tired on a ride, my right leg is the always the one that starts getting sore/tired first. My Quarq also has power balance, and I regularly see a 4-5% difference between the two legs (except during high intensity intervals), left leg being the stronger of the two
Ive had issues with my right leg/hip over the last few years, and it is weaker than my left (I go to PT every other month to keep things in balance, but there is still the strength difference between the two legs). I even had to end my season early a few years ago because it was hurting bad enough. When I really start to get tired on a ride, my right leg is the always the one that starts getting sore/tired first. My Quarq also has power balance, and I regularly see a 4-5% difference between the two legs (except during high intensity intervals), left leg being the stronger of the two
02-05-17, 08:18 PM
#4568
Blast from the Past
Tested a stages last week against my quarq to see what kind of difference there was...the idea was to buy a cannondale stages so I can use the Cannondale crank and Spider Rings that came with my caad12 and put the Quarq on the TT bike.
The stages read 25 watts high on a 2 hour tempo ride...definitely cant get a Stages with that kind of difference.
Which leads me to getting a Cannondale Quarq (which im finding they dont make anymore...)or trying to find a way to get a Cannondale SRM. I know there are a few SRM users here, but are they really worth the extra coin? I dont seem many used ones on ebay, and the ones that are listed are pretty damned close to retail.
I want to use this crankset and still have power...are there any other options other than Quarq or SRM?
The stages read 25 watts high on a 2 hour tempo ride...definitely cant get a Stages with that kind of difference.
Which leads me to getting a Cannondale Quarq (which im finding they dont make anymore...)or trying to find a way to get a Cannondale SRM. I know there are a few SRM users here, but are they really worth the extra coin? I dont seem many used ones on ebay, and the ones that are listed are pretty damned close to retail.
I want to use this crankset and still have power...are there any other options other than Quarq or SRM?
02-06-17, 07:40 AM
#4569
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,569
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1851 Post(s)
Liked 678 Times
in
429 Posts
I paid $550 for a Cannondale Hollowgram SRM spider with chainrings two summers ago.
Just keep looking on eBay, Paceline, Slowtwitch and Craigslist.
For CL, the trick is to look in other cities. I found my SRM on Craigslist in LA. Exchanged several emails with the guy and chatted with him for about 5 min. on the phone before making the deal. Used PayPal for the purchase to give me protection.
Just keep looking on eBay, Paceline, Slowtwitch and Craigslist.
For CL, the trick is to look in other cities. I found my SRM on Craigslist in LA. Exchanged several emails with the guy and chatted with him for about 5 min. on the phone before making the deal. Used PayPal for the purchase to give me protection.
02-06-17, 10:14 AM
#4570
Senior Member
Someone else said the same thing, but im pretty sure that isnt the case
Ive had issues with my right leg/hip over the last few years, and it is weaker than my left (I go to PT every other month to keep things in balance, but there is still the strength difference between the two legs). I even had to end my season early a few years ago because it was hurting bad enough. When I really start to get tired on a ride, my right leg is the always the one that starts getting sore/tired first. My Quarq also has power balance, and I regularly see a 4-5% difference between the two legs (except during high intensity intervals), left leg being the stronger of the two
Ive had issues with my right leg/hip over the last few years, and it is weaker than my left (I go to PT every other month to keep things in balance, but there is still the strength difference between the two legs). I even had to end my season early a few years ago because it was hurting bad enough. When I really start to get tired on a ride, my right leg is the always the one that starts getting sore/tired first. My Quarq also has power balance, and I regularly see a 4-5% difference between the two legs (except during high intensity intervals), left leg being the stronger of the two
02-13-17, 12:24 PM
#4571
**** that
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: CALI
Posts: 15,402
Mentioned: 151 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1099 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times
in
30 Posts
Valve extenders - how do they work?
I got some latex tubes, with short valves that I want to use with my 404's. So got some valve extenders to go with them.
These: https://www.amazon.com/Vittoria-Late...ds=latex+tubes
The problem is that once I take out the valve core and put on the valve extender, nothing is stopping air from coming back out..
What am I doing wrong??
I got some latex tubes, with short valves that I want to use with my 404's. So got some valve extenders to go with them.
These: https://www.amazon.com/Vittoria-Late...ds=latex+tubes
The problem is that once I take out the valve core and put on the valve extender, nothing is stopping air from coming back out..
What am I doing wrong??
02-13-17, 12:42 PM
#4572
No matches
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 11,647
Bikes: two wheeled ones
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1398 Post(s)
Liked 444 Times
in
250 Posts
Which type of extender? One style you remove your core, put on the extender, and put the core in the extender.
The older style you just open the valve all the way and leave it that way.
Valve Extender How-To - Slowtwitch.com
The older style you just open the valve all the way and leave it that way.
Valve Extender How-To - Slowtwitch.com
02-13-17, 12:45 PM
#4573
**** that
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: CALI
Posts: 15,402
Mentioned: 151 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1099 Post(s)
Liked 104 Times
in
30 Posts
This one: https://www.amazon.com/Continental-V...valve+extender
I thought I tried to put the valve core back in to the extender, but couldn't.. will try again when I get home.
I thought I tried to put the valve core back in to the extender, but couldn't.. will try again when I get home.
02-13-17, 12:48 PM
#4574
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,569
Mentioned: 54 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1851 Post(s)
Liked 678 Times
in
429 Posts
Yeah, you should be able to remove the valve core, install the extender, then reinstall the valve core.
There's another type that just screws over the existing valve core, but IMO, they don't work as well.
There's another type that just screws over the existing valve core, but IMO, they don't work as well.
02-13-17, 01:09 PM
#4575
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Redwood City, CA
Posts: 10,978
Bikes: aggressive agreement is what I ride.
Mentioned: 109 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 967 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
4 Posts
This one: https://www.amazon.com/Continental-V...valve+extender
I thought I tried to put the valve core back in to the extender, but couldn't.. will try again when I get home.
I thought I tried to put the valve core back in to the extender, but couldn't.. will try again when I get home.
