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Is a suspension seat post worth it?

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Old 04-08-16, 08:49 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by admrlawesome
Again, I'm new. I really don't know a lot about bikes. Is a suspension seat post worth it? And, is there a great difference between brands? I'm not looking at is as a replacement for a rear suspension. Just something to take the edge off of the small bumps. I'm on a pretty nicely paved bike path for the most part. Thanks!
The most inexpensive and elegant solution is just to look where you're riding, and briefly lift your ass off the saddle when you're approaching an unavoidable bump. Don't just ride like a sack of potatoes -- it's not good for you or the bike.
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Old 04-08-16, 09:02 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by PaulRivers
Any suspension you put in the back will reduce your power. Rear suspension on mountain bikes (until you get into expensive stuff but that stuff just locks out the suspension when it's flat and only kicks in when it gets bumpy) kills you power.
Originally Posted by gsa103
Suspension seatposts shouldn't have any effect on power (just more weight). Pedaling forces wouldn't compress the seat at all (if anything they lift you). Rear frame suspension is different because the downstroke also causes the rear suspension to compress. Even then its clearly possible to have modest suspension without much power impact (Roubaix, Domane, K8-s, etc).
I agree with gsa103. The Thudbusters are better IMO because the parallelogram design means the the seat to axle distance remains essentially consistent. Unlike a full rear, or front suspension, there is no bouncing when you're riding out of the saddle. If you are bouncing while you're IN the saddle, you need to work on your pedal stroke.
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Old 04-08-16, 09:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
The most inexpensive and elegant solution is just to look where you're riding, and briefly lift your ass off the saddle when you're approaching an unavoidable bump. Don't just ride like a sack of potatoes -- it's not good for you or the bike.
+1. Be an active participant in your ride; learn which bumps you can avoid and which you need to anticipate. This is easier if your weight is relatively evenly distributed between front and rear wheels.

That said, fatter tires are more comfortable, especially nice ones.

I would not mess with a suspension seat post. I have one, I think it's a thudbuster, on one bike... a bike I don't like riding. I'm not sure that's the seat post's fault, though.
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Old 04-08-16, 10:08 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Kindaslow
They are small springs tasked with doing a lot of work, so they might fatigue from so many "cycles." I have about 1 year and 4-5k miles on the one. The other is about 6 months and maybe 30 MTB rides of 2-4 hours. And, there are no obvious signs of wear on either of them.
According to the copy on the web page, the inventor came up with it riding around Uganda, so my guess is that he started with valve springs. At least they're the same scale. Nothing this seat post does will ever match what a valve spring has to do in its life.
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Old 04-08-16, 10:12 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by kickstart
IMO, A traditional sprung saddle works better.
Originally Posted by techsensei
You will see a fair number of positive reviews for inexpensive suspension posts on Amazon, but long term, they all go bad ... over time the bushings inside wear, and the seat wobbles from side-to-side. So I agree with kickstart, get a sprung saddle instead.
Originally Posted by Kindaslow
The Body Float seatpost is the one that works, and I have about 4,000 miles on my road bike version. Plus, it is sprung to your body weight and adjustable.

And, from someone who has owned sprung seats and the Body Float, the Body Float is far better.

By the way, it is not cheap...

Cirrus Cycles ? Cirrus Cycles | Bodyfloat | Isolation Seat Post | Suspension Seatpost System
I tried a few suspension seat posts and just didn't like them.

Went with the Brooks Flyer (see avatar) and couldn't be happier.

My point is there are several options and no single one is right for everyone, so be prepared to experiment until you find what works best for you...
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Old 04-08-16, 10:15 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by loky1179
I agree with gsa103. The Thudbusters are better IMO because the parallelogram design means the the seat to axle distance remains essentially consistent. Unlike a full rear, or front suspension, there is no bouncing when you're riding out of the saddle. If you are bouncing while you're IN the saddle, you need to work on your pedal stroke.
Yeah, but they are so friggin' ugly IMO...
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Old 04-08-16, 10:31 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty
According to the copy on the web page, the inventor came up with it riding around Uganda, so my guess is that he started with valve springs. At least they're the same scale. Nothing this seat post does will ever match what a valve spring has to do in its life.
Good points!
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Old 04-08-16, 10:33 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by rmfnla
I tried a few suspension seat posts and just didn't like them.

Went with the Brooks Flyer (see avatar) and couldn't be happier.

My point is there are several options and no single one is right for everyone, so be prepared to experiment until you find what works best for you...
The important part is you like your solution. My point is that the Body Float is different, and a lot of folks are providing opinions without having tried any of these at all, seats or posts.
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Old 04-08-16, 10:42 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Kindaslow
...a lot of folks are providing opinions without having tried any of these at all, seats or posts.
And you have > 1,700 posts..?
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Old 04-08-16, 11:02 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by rmfnla
Yeah, but they are so friggin' ugly IMO...
My backside doesn't think so. Although, speaking of ugly . . no, I better not post a picture of my backside.
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Old 04-08-16, 12:50 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by gsa103
Suspension seatposts shouldn't have any effect on power (just more weight). Pedaling forces wouldn't compress the seat at all (if anything they lift you). Rear frame suspension is different because the downstroke also causes the rear suspension to compress. Even then its clearly possible to have modest suspension without much power impact (Roubaix, Domane, K8-s, etc).
I guess we'd both be talking from theory. I would be surprised if that was the case - rear suspension on a bike is definitely a huge sucking of power. But to be fair I don't have personal experience with one.

As other posters mentioned the best thing to do is ride in a better position, not like a sack of potatoes.

If you want to take the edge off small bumps (which is what the OP asked about), best thing is either fatter tires, or a better bike frame. Fatter tires simply ride over the small bumps, the tire deforms around the bump and you never feel it. Better frames can help a lot to - it's almost unbelievable how much more comfortable by Specialized Sequoia is, a cheaper aluminum frame with a carbon front fork - compared to my previous full aluminum frame.
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Old 04-08-16, 07:59 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Kindaslow
The important part is you like your solution. My point is that the Body Float is different, and a lot of folks are providing opinions without having tried any of these at all, seats or posts.
Do you exceed the stated 260lb weight limit of the Body Float system and if so, by how much?

Also how much does the Body Float system weigh in total?
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Old 04-08-16, 08:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
Do you exceed the stated 260lb weight limit of the Body Float system and if so, by how much?

Also how much does the Body Float system weigh in total?
I am about 180, so no issues with the weight limit. Average seatposts are usually 200-300 grams and these are 350-400 grams. So, there is a weight penalty, but not much of one. I rode my fully rigid MTB on very rough trails today and yet again this thing amazed me. Being that this bike is a SS I am out of the saddle a LOT, but still in the saddle at times in which there are big bumps, just no way to avoid it, and this saves my ass and back. Also, it makes it much more possible to keep the power hard into the pedaling in place of getting bounced and losing momentum.

By the way, I looked at these for a LONG time before going for it. Now, I like it so much I would pay even more for it if needed.
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Old 04-08-16, 08:18 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
Do you exceed the stated 260lb weight limit of the Body Float system and if so, by how much?

Also how much does the Body Float system weigh in total?
Here is the link to the trail that picture was taken on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDavn3EiDQo
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Old 04-08-16, 08:20 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Kindaslow
I am about 180, so no issues with the weight limit. Average seatposts are usually 200-300 grams and these are 350-400 grams. So, there is a weight penalty, but not much of one. I rode my fully rigid MTB on very rough trails today and yet again this thing amazed me. Being that this bike is a SS I am out of the saddle a LOT, but still in the saddle at times in which there are big bumps, just no way to avoid it, and this saves my ass and back. Also, it makes it much more possible to keep the power hard into the pedaling in place of getting bounced and losing momentum.

By the way, I looked at these for a LONG time before going for it. Now, I like it so much I would pay even more for it if needed.
I'm about to pull the trigger on the Giant ToughRoad SLR 2 and unfortunately Giant has a proprietary seatpost system that I believe means regular round seatposts can't fit in, but on my n+1 bike which should happen next year, I am very likely going to get a Surly Disc Trucker and look to turn it into the ultimate comfort bike, so I will give that Body Float a go, overwhelmingly on the basis of your strong recommendation on it.

Also I hope by next year to be under the 260lb mark.
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Old 04-08-16, 08:25 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by ColonelSanders
I'm about to pull the trigger on the Giant ToughRoad SLR 2 and unfortunately Giant has a proprietary seatpost system that I believe means regular round seatposts can't fit in, but on my n+1 bike which should happen next year, I am very likely going to get a Surly Disc Trucker and look to turn it into the ultimate comfort bike, so I will give that Body Float a go, overwhelmingly on the basis of your strong recommendation on it.

Also I hope by next year to be under the 260lb mark.
Sounds great!

i was 245 two years ago. A combination of too much work, raising 5 kids, and lots of deaths in the family led me to forget to take care of myself. Biking, a major hobby/love of mine since I was little got me back in shape. You can do it too!
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Old 04-08-16, 08:36 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Kindaslow
Sounds great!

i was 245 two years ago. A combination of too much work, raising 5 kids, and lots of deaths in the family led me to forget to take care of myself. Biking, a major hobby/love of mine since I was little got me back in shape. You can do it too!
Yep, already making good progress, but having a decent bike will just make things even easier, as I love commuting on it to buy computer parts, do grocery shopping and visit friends.
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Old 04-08-16, 08:44 PM
  #43  
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My bike has a suspension seat post which I really like. It's adjustable for weight and really takes the pain out of sharp jolts you don't see coming
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Old 04-09-16, 06:56 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by loky1179
My backside doesn't think so. Although, speaking of ugly . . no, I better not post a picture of my backside.
May as well close this thread; nobody's going to top that...
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Old 04-09-16, 07:36 PM
  #45  
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I have two suspension seat posts and love both of them.

Unfortunately, I have a tender backside and as such, have a thudbuster on my fully suspended mountain bike. I also have a Cannondale R100 (very stiff bike) with a internal spring suspension seat post that is very old and I think it is a aveneur brand.

Yes there is a little bit of slop in them, and yes they are a bit bouncy. It just doesn't bother me.

I do like the extra comfort and if I got a new bike, I would carefully transfer either one over to the new bike or get another one depending on the situation.

On the Cannondale, I do have some neck/shoulder/tailbone issues and am sore after long rides or repeated daily commutes on the cannondale. While the suspension seat posts go a long way to soften the bumps, my third bike is a Vison recumbent which is ultra comfortable although slower and heavier.

Bottom line is that I really like the suspension seat posts, both of mine have been used quite a bit for a long time, don't know the mileage but our roads here stink so they get quite a workout.

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Old 04-09-16, 10:41 PM
  #46  
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Coincidentally, I just installed another thudbuster on one my bikes today.

What's all the fuss about -- great technology, do the job, fine tune-able, not too heavy, use any saddle you want, last forever.
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Old 04-10-16, 05:06 AM
  #47  
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All of the cylinder/piston style seatposts work loose after a while and are then junk.
The more expensive pivot and spring ones last, eg Thudbuster, Body Float, Tamer. Wider tyres such as Schwalbe Big Apple make short work of everyday bumps and rough road.
Brooks sprung saddles are more suitable for heavy riders who have an upright riding style. For lightweight riders they are overbuilt.
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Old 04-10-16, 05:37 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty
According to the copy on the web page, the inventor came up with it riding around Uganda, so my guess is that he started with valve springs. At least they're the same scale. Nothing this seat post does will ever match what a valve spring has to do in its life.
Yeah, a quick calculation tells me my valve springs have done 336,000,000 cycles each

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Old 04-16-16, 09:19 PM
  #49  
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Do a search on a tire pressure calculator and save your money.

https://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-...alculator.html
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Old 04-17-16, 03:02 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Kindaslow
Clearly nobody here has tried the Body Float. Even though it is expensive, it is worth it.
Something that's expensive and serves a need that you don't have can't possibly be worth it.
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