Prehyp

Hi all
I recently acquired an old pinarello single speed bike. I've some questions about the authenticity of the bike and some issues I'm having with the handlebar and the seatpost.

can anyone confirm from the photos if the frame is genuine Pinarello?

I'm having an issue with the handlebar. It's too low and I wanted to raise it up but the bolt is stuck. I've used an Allen key to try and loosen it but it's completely unmovable. The handlebar is an old nitto olympiade 115. See photo for it. Any idea how I might be able to raise this handlebar?

also having an issue with the seatpost as it keeps slipping down to the frame on its own. The design of this frame has the collar to tighten the seatpost as a part of the frame and it's completely tight so I don't know how to solve this. Because of the design I don't think I could install a separate clamp. Any ideas please?
Edit: sorry guys I was finally able to post links for the photos. I've tried embedding the photos but it kept failing . Links are below
handlebar
seat stem
Seat stem
frame
Full bike
handlebar
Seat stem/post

cb400bill

Yes, I have one.


Pinarello by cb400bill, on Flickr

Prehyp

Hi,
I do have the same sticker on my frame. I'm trying to post the photos but unfortunately I can't before getting to 10 posts. Coming shortly thanks!

Chombi1 

Not sure if the newer Pinarello (with TIG welded frames?) had "collars" to secure their seatposts. But it could at least determine when the bike was built.....but not whether it us a genuine Pinarello......

cb400bill

You should be able to attach self hosted pics by clicking on the little paperclip at the top of the reply box.

TenGrainBread 

Post some photos...

If the seatpost is slipping it probably means the seatpost is too small (in diameter). If it is a separate (non-integrated) seat clamp, then maybe the clamp is too big and thus not actually compressing the seat tube. Either way, take the seatpost out and take the clamp off (if it is separate from the frame). Measure the outer diameter and inner diameter of the seattube with a set of calipers and this will tell you what size you need (and therefore whether the parts that were installed are correct).

Regarding the wedge bolt for the quill stem - drip penetrating oil (or at least some sort of lubricant) down the stem bolt. If you can turn the bike upside down, also drop some down the steerer from the bottom of the fork crown. Wait a day and try loosening again. If it does not budge, repeat the oiling and waiting until it does.

Pars 

For the stem, after loosening the stem bolt, but without removing it, you sometimes need to use a block of wood and a hammer to dislodge the wedge. Normally one that needs this will have the stem bolt protruding above the stem as you loosen it.

Wildwood 

+1
Newer bike

SJX426 

I would say the head badge is genuine -

P1020145, on Flickr

P1000968, on Flickr

Prehyp

Thanks all for providing photos and helping me out.

regarding the seat post. As you could see from the photos, the clamp caused the frame to crack slightly and that's what causing the seatpost to slip all the way. Because the clamp is part of the frame, i'm not sure how I could go about fixing this issue. Is the frame rendered useless now? I'm pretty disappointed the guy who sold me this was less than honest about this.

Prehyp

I've also posted photos of the handlebar. The Allen key is completely unable to move the bolt. I've tried applying degreasing and lubricant but it's unmovable.

I suspect i might be going about this wrong as this is my first time ever working with bike parts. Any guidance about this also is appreciated

Prehyp

Hi, i've updated with photos. The issue is that the bolt is completely not moving. So i'm not sure how to even start here

Prehyp

Hi Thanks for the response.
do you know how wide your seat tube is in diameter? And what diameter seatpost you use that's compatible with it?

Prehyp

Do you happen to know the seat tube diameter of your frame and what compatible seat post you use with it?

bicyclridr4life

Stem Bolt:
Take an Allen Wrench that fits, and cut 2 - 3 inches off.
Put that on the stem bolt, and rap smartly with a hammer, several times.
Use an uncut Allen wrench, and try to turn the bolt a LITTLE BIT (clockwise) to tighten, then try to loosen (anticlockwise).
The above MIGHT break loose the rust/ corrosion in the threads so the bolt will turn.
If you twist the bolt, you'll have to stick something in there to tap what's left of the bolt and the wedge down so you can remove the stem, and install a new bolt and wedge.

cb400bill

My seatpost is 27.2.

Prehyp

I believe my seat tube is also 27.2 mm but a 27.2 seat post wont fit. I believe it's supposed to? My inclination is that a previous owner had tried to fit an undersized seat post into the tube and tightened the clamp too much to affect the diameter.. Not sure what to do, but I'm going to test it out more tomorrow.

T-Mar

Yes, the previous owner had installed an under size post, as the cinch slot is pinched closed at the top. Gently pry it open with thin bladed screwdriver until the slot is slightly wider at the top than the bottom of the slot. There's what appears to be a crack in the left cinch slot ear, down it's side, but I can't tell if it's in just the paint or the brazed joint has cracked. If it's the latter,it will have to be repaired.

I don't see any embossing on the seat stay caps. This may indicate a lesser grade tubeset,such as Aelle or Zeta, that uses a smaller than 27.2mm seat post. However, it is a legitimate Pinarello.

JReade

I see a faint PG on the stay caps.

Trevtassie

With your stem bolt. Take out the front wheel and turn the bike upside down. Trickle some Kroil/ATF/release agent of your choice down on the end of the bolt you'll see sticking through the expander/wedge (you might need a torch to see it. Leave it for a day, then do the whack an allen key thing mentioned above.

SJX426 

@Prehyp - 27.2 seat posts for both frames. ST = 28.56 without paint.

Prehyp

there is this.


Do embossings indicate higher quality of frames?

Prehyp

Hi. Thanks for the reply. This fixed it. I didn't imagine it would be a solution that simple

also the crack in the left cinch ear slot is just paint

Prehyp

Hi. Thanks for the response.
the bolt seems to be worn out that using an Allen key won't fit and turning/twisting accomplishes nothing.

What could I do in this case? Also how does cutting off inches off the allen key help?

bicyclridr4life

Cutting the Allen wrench gets rid of the bend so you can beat it into the Allen bolt with a hammer.
You then use a socket or a wrench that fits the Allen wrench to turn it.

If the Allen bolt is stripped /rounded out from using too small and Allen wrench, you'll have to have a welding shop weld bolt or something to the original bolt to get it out. If the welder is good, he (or she) will not hit the stem during the weld.

Your only other choice is to cut the stem and bolt below the bolt head (leave enough stem so that after the cut you can grab hold of it) then use a punch on the bolt to drive the wedge down so you can remove what's left of the stem.