Paint Restoration
#1
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Paint Restoration
Guys i need your help..
I'm thinking of restoring the paint of my old bike.. Though it has tiny(micro-scratches if you call it), i've already decided to keep its original color so the decals also will stay. Here's my plan. 1. Use with a smoothest sandpaper. 2. Rub it with the compound 3. If 2 didnt work paint thinner is my bqck-up. 4. Apply clear coating.
Those are my dumb ideas of restoring the paint. I heed help from the expert here. Thanks.
I'm thinking of restoring the paint of my old bike.. Though it has tiny(micro-scratches if you call it), i've already decided to keep its original color so the decals also will stay. Here's my plan. 1. Use with a smoothest sandpaper. 2. Rub it with the compound 3. If 2 didnt work paint thinner is my bqck-up. 4. Apply clear coating.
Those are my dumb ideas of restoring the paint. I heed help from the expert here. Thanks.
#2
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A picture of the current finish (close up, worst spots...) will help with better suggestions, but generally, sanding is about as 'nuclear' as you can get before stripping and re-painting.
For an intact finish, I would start with a fine(r) rubbing compound in an inconspicuous area, followed by polishing compound, and wax. I would be surprised if that wasn't enough to bring a good deal of shine back.
For an intact finish, I would start with a fine(r) rubbing compound in an inconspicuous area, followed by polishing compound, and wax. I would be surprised if that wasn't enough to bring a good deal of shine back.
#3
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Be careful if you go with a clear coat. Not all clear coats are compatible with all factory finishes. It is also important to get every bit of wax, grease, and especially silicone (lube or polish) completely removed. Once cleaned and degreased, you can touch up paint dings with a closely matching paint, then lightly wet sand with 1200 or 1500 grit sandpaper. Clean again (factory finish will be dull, which is what you want at this point) and give it 2-3 coats of a quality clear coat (Impact Products Clear Coat is my preference) lightly wet sanding with 1500 grit paper in between. Allow the final coat to cure completely (1-2 weeks in a warm, dry location) then use 1800 or 2000 grit paper to wet sand out any imperfections from overspray (dull satin areas) or dust specks and then use a rubbing compound on a microfiber or soft cotton cloth to bring out the luster. Don't overdo the rubbing compound. Finish with a polish/protectant on a soft cloth. There is some risk of hazing, lifting, peeling or poor bonding (nicks easily with light pressure) if there is an incompatability issue with the underlying finish but that's the chance you take.
Last edited by Myosmith; 07-13-17 at 09:00 PM.
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this is how i'd do it...
use 3M Auto Rubbing Compound first... then, use COLOR MATCHED touch-up paint, and then sand with 600 grit, and then 1000 grit, then use the rubbing compound again on the areas touched up.
clear coating, as mentioned above, can cause problems, if it's not the correct type... contact trek, be ready with the serial number and model of your bike... they MIGHT be able to advise you about clear coating... pretty sure your bike has not been clear coated.
clear coating gets UGLY after several years... just wax your frame.
use 3M Auto Rubbing Compound first... then, use COLOR MATCHED touch-up paint, and then sand with 600 grit, and then 1000 grit, then use the rubbing compound again on the areas touched up.
clear coating, as mentioned above, can cause problems, if it's not the correct type... contact trek, be ready with the serial number and model of your bike... they MIGHT be able to advise you about clear coating... pretty sure your bike has not been clear coated.
clear coating gets UGLY after several years... just wax your frame.