Fangowolf

I drove my pedal into the road on a turn. It's a LHT with an Andel RSC6 Crankset. The driveside has the five radial arms. Is it possible to replace just that crank arm without replacing the whole crankset? Crankset PIcture

FBinNY 

Yes, you can often buy right arms without rings, but in most cases there won't be enough savings to do so. Compare price with and withour rings and decide for yourself if it doesn't make sense to buy the spare rings now for a bargain price in terms of the price difference.

BTW- it's rare that driving a pedal into the ground on turns damages cranks. What's wrong with your crank, or are you just worried?

Fangowolf

Well it won't thread back in. When it was still in the crank arm it wobbled. Almost like it has opened the hole wider. I have tried to re-install the pedal but it doesn't seem to catch.

I guess woble might not be a good explanation. You could left the pedal an inch or so like it was loos in the hole.

FBinNY 

OK you apparently gave it a really solid shot. I've never seen a pedal torn out of a crank this way, and suspect it was loose and backed out a ways before it hit.

Your best bet may be to see a dealer or bike co-op who can save the crank with a threaded insert. Properly done inserts make theads strnger than the original.

BTW- if you rammed the pedal that hard, you might consider replacing it. That's especially true if it's bent and wobbles in the repaired crank.

Fangowolf

Thanks FB
I'll probably replace it and try to shorten the arms a bit. The 26" LHT's put the pedals pretty close to the ground.

dsbrantjr

+1 on repairing it with a threaded insert AKA Helicoil. I am sure that a lot of cranks are needlessly discarded due to stripped-out threads that could have been economically repaired, better than new.

FBinNY 

Then you'll be buying a crankset which is the best value compared with either arm or chainrings. Consider looking for one with the same bolt pattern so you can keep these rings as spares.

BTW- It's rare that BB height and crank length bring pedals down low enough to make a bottoming problem. Pedal width is usually a bigger factor. Then most good bikes can bottom a pedal (you should see the lower bottom of my road pedals) and the key is to keep the inner crank up as you coast through hard corners.

I just looked at the frame's specs, and the BB is 3" below the axles which isn't especially low. But since this has 26" wheels it brings up a pedal clearance question. What's the tire width. @6" tires come in a large spectrum of widths, and the height changes along with the width.

You're thinking of shortening a crank arm to gain 5-10mm added pedal clearance. But changes in tire width can change clearance by 25mm or more. Whatever you decide about the cranks, it might make sense to raise the frame by using wider tires. (but even, inside pedal up on hard corners).

Fangowolf

Yea I have a bad habit of pedaling through the turns. This time The pedal hit the ground right as I was just hitting the bottom of the arc. So I drove the pedal in the ground as the road came up to hit it. It happened pretty fast but I could have sworn my back wheel came of the ground.

pierce

i'd not heard of that crankset before, so I googled it, looks to be a taiwan company.

https://www.andel.com.tw/products/pro...&pid=38&cid=18

nice looking crank. says its forged, but doesn't say what alloy. apparently, a fairly soft one.


I've broken pedals doing that kind of thing, and the crank arm was fine.