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What have you been wrenching on lately?

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Old 11-12-23, 09:02 AM
  #7001  
Chuck M 
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Rebuilding some ubiquitous bike boom KKT self leveling pedals this morning, all was going well until I went to install the second one and the spindle was far too loose. So loose I don't know how I missed it on reassembly. But that has been the way everything has gone on this not so challenging rebuild which is supposed to be a project to get my mind off of bigger things. I've gone out to ride my age on a fresh build before with nothing more than a multi-tool to make a saddle or bar adjustment. This bike I feel like I will need a sag wagon to go for a test ride to the coffee shop.
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Old 11-12-23, 12:46 PM
  #7002  
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Threw some new rubber on this old thing and adjusted the gears. Derailleur hanger is pretty bent so didnt get them adjusted 100%. Also threw in some NOS brake pads so its less noisy under braking.
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Old 11-12-23, 02:46 PM
  #7003  
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Originally Posted by spclark
Hmmm... thanks for that. Your post caused me to take another look now that I have one of the donor Ukai's unlaced:

My MAVICS:


- are certainly 'old school' dating from Easter Sunday '72 when I rolled the bike out of the store on N. Clark St. in Chicago.

I'd read elsewhere (here) there's maybe a 4mm difference in wheel radius between rims of various specs, why I wasn't surprised to see this when I first compared the new wheels to what I've been riding off & on for over fifty years.

Just now, looking at a bare Ukai rim against one of my Mavics w/tire on, there's virtually NO discernible difference in diameter.

Comparing rim depths:

- it's readily apparent the Ukai is deeper, maybe where I was misled when I first compared the two?

New (to me) rim's decal.


Both rims' decals:


Noted rust in Ukai's spoke wells once I'd gotten wheel disassembled. Cleaning that up wasn't hard using a .30 cal. bronze bore brush chucked in a drill. What's a good way to clean up the outer bit rolled over onto the rim's inner face, w/o doing much to change the patina on the aluminum?

Or should I bother with that at all? They're 'used' after all, not new, bright $ shiny.
That's a good question. I've used the alloy back edge of razor. cooking foil with water is good, could use a petroleum instead of water. Try using the edge of your finger nail, that may be just enough. Tedious if are just doing the eyelet.

All apart it's easy to polish up with 0000 steal wool and rubbing compound, either of those certainly will clean things off. Wet car wax can do good, but that on the brake tracks can get slippery, I wouldn't be liberal with it.
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Old 11-12-23, 06:52 PM
  #7004  
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After it sat for twelve years in boxes and made two cross country moves, I finally put together my Fuji Touring Series V. When I got it it was set up with flat bar cockpit. I switched to 700c wheels and I’m running 38 mm Gravel Kings and it looks like there is room for fenders if I go that route. The original Dia Compe NGC982 brakes worked well with the new wheels. Plan on using it for gravel/around town bike. Really like the ride so far.
Thanks for looking.
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Old 11-12-23, 09:01 PM
  #7005  
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Originally Posted by Classtime
The last time that I stripped a frame for painting, the product label contained a warning about methylene chloride. No such luck today🙁



Second coat doing something maybe?
Painting a frame is a subject of dread for me. You must know enough to use a wire brush that won't scratch that it has to be sanded out. I'll grant an overcoat would look like somebody painted over leftover paint. I may never not be too sloppy in my lifetime.
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Old 11-12-23, 09:42 PM
  #7006  
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Originally Posted by Dovetube
Painting a frame is a subject of dread for me. You must know enough to use a wire brush that won't scratch that it has to be sanded out. I'll grant an overcoat would look like somebody painted over leftover paint. I may never not be too sloppy in my lifetime.
It’s coming along.
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Old 11-13-23, 03:40 AM
  #7007  
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Originally Posted by spclark
I'd read elsewhere (here) there's maybe a 4mm difference in wheel radius between rims of various specs, why I wasn't surprised to see this when I first compared the new wheels to what I've been riding off & on for over fifty years.
Just to clarify: a difference of 4 mm in radius is precisely the difference between 700c and 27" rims. For either size, the inner radius of the rim can be all over the place, but the outer radius cannot.

Rims of a given nominal size from different manufacturers or production runs may differ from one to another by a tiny bit, because of design intentions or wear in the machinery used to produce the rim extrusion, but nothing like 2 mm, let alone 4.
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Old 11-13-23, 08:06 PM
  #7008  
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I worked some more on the Gazelle A, this time getting the lighting system working and partially failing to get the cottered cranks off.

First the good news.

The Koets B rear light was modified using parts from the busted up one by adding a second insulated wire lead on the outside, allowing me to grind down a tiny B+M Line Small LED light and mounting it into place using kneadable goop that hardens and fixes it into place.
This process will probably get me banned from some places on the internet but personally, I really like the results:





The wiring will get cleaned up significantly when I finish the dynamo wheel you can see in the stand on the table.

I'm having a ridiculously hard time getting the cranks off however. The cotter pins were no issue at all because I have a specific tool for that but I cannot for the life of me get the drive side crank off.
Even with a 3-arm puller I felt I needed to wear eye protection and it barely moves outwards. I can sort of move it from side to side but something isn't working here.
That's something for another day because I don't think my neighbours are going to love me if I apply some percussive maintenance at 3:00 in the morning.

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Old 11-13-23, 11:20 PM
  #7009  
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More Land Shark progress (WARNING: Non-Vintage Content).

This is my first dive into tubeless tires and rims, this is also the first new off the shelf wheel set I have bought in years. The wheelset is Mavic Ksyrium SL, nice and light, but what sold me was the spokes are isolated from the inner wall of the rim, the only penetration is for the tire valve assembly, so no rim tape.
Mounting the tires (Vittoria Corsa Pro TLR) required tire lube (Schwalbe) to get the beads over the rim by hand. Getting the beads to seat required more tire lube on the bead seats (19mm wide rim), the air compressor with the regulator set at 70 psi and pushing the tire with my thumbs to find the magic spot to get a partial seal then was rewarded with three pops as the beads seated, both tires made the same three pops.
I used 32cc of Effetto Mariposa tire sealant in each tire shot in with a 50cc syringe and a 10 ga. blunt needle through the tire valve, clean and easy. The Tires were inflated to 80 psi, I spun each wheel every which way for roughly 15 minutes each. The wheels set for 24 hours and the pressure decayed to 60 psi each when checked this evening, I brought the pressure back up to 80 psi and repeated the spinning routine so we will see what the pressure is tomorrow. I suspect this is normal behavior for a first sealant fill on new everything.

Update: After two days pressure decay is only 5 psi over 24 hours (80 psi to 75 psi). In my book that's "good to go".

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Old 11-14-23, 06:14 AM
  #7010  
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Some close-ups of the light;



Internals gooped into place


Extra hole drilled and connector added


Original internals
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Old 11-15-23, 11:33 AM
  #7011  
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I have just finished (mostly) my 1976 Motobecane Super Mirage. There is not a single bike that I have not made modification on and this one is no exception. It is now a 5x3 gearing requiring new spindle, Campy hubs, both derailleurs and seat post. All the rest of the components are Motobecane. Rides like a dream. I swapped out the road peddles for MBT ones but not so happy with them; probably will go back. The drop threads were shot so I did a DIY fix that works but looks horrible. But, I love it just the same.




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Old 11-15-23, 04:13 PM
  #7012  
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I was waxing the chain after 300 miles on my Holdsworth Cyclone and thought I'd try the alternative gearing.
.
Chainrings are 52/36, freewheel was New Winner ultra 6 13-15-17-19-21-28.
But I had the sprockets to try 13-32 so I changed it to New Winner ultra 6 13-15-17-19-24-32.
Then I had to add 2 links to the chain according to big/big + 2 rule (now 116 links).
.
Got a chance to try it today and I think it's perfect:
52 / 13-15-17-19 works fine for flattish roads with/without headwinds etc.
36 / 17-19-24 works fine on smallish hills
36 / 32 is my granny gear, and the lowest gear I've ever had.
.
My local test 'hill' is about 300 yards of approx 5-7%, on the Avanti I use 42/28 (lowest gear) which is exactly the same ratio as 36/24.
36/32 felt a lot like spinning out going up that 'hill' (but I tend towards mashing anyway) which I recon is a good thing.

Update (2023/11/17) I measured that hill and the steep bit is 7.55%.

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Old 11-15-23, 04:57 PM
  #7013  
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Playing with a frame and stuff from the parts bin to see if, and to what extent, 650B stuff will work with 700C wheels.


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Old 11-15-23, 06:08 PM
  #7014  
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
I was waxing the chain after 300 miles on my Holdsworth Cyclone and thought I'd try the alternative gearing.
.
Chainrings are 52/36, freewheel was New Winner ultra 6 13-15-17-19-21-28.
But I had the sprockets to try 13-32 so I changed it to New Winner ultra 6 13-15-17-19-24-32.
Then I had to add 2 links to the chain according to big/big + 2 rule (now 116 links).
.
Got a chance to try it today and I think it's perfect:
52 / 13-15-17-19 works fine for flattish roads with/without headwinds etc.
36 / 17-19-24 works fine on smallish hills
36 / 32 is my granny gear, and the lowest gear I've ever had.
.
My local test 'hill' is about 300 yards of approx 5-7%, on the Avanti I use 42/28 (lowest gear) which is exactly the same ratio as 36/24.
36/32 felt a lot like spinning out going up that 'hill' (but I tend towards mashing anyway) which I recon is a good thing.
and I am still in the 42x17on the flats. Just spin.
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Old 11-15-23, 06:10 PM
  #7015  
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I'm not sure there's much visual progress since my last post. Wheels have been overhauled and trued, brakes set, and (not pictured) the little rubber/silicone piece for the stem was installed. I've also been fortunate enough to discover the joy of a 26.4mm Cinelli stem paired with a 26.0mm Cinelli handlebar. So I need to get shimming, but then it's ready! Whoever the future rider is will probably want something a little more sleek than the Shimano flat/clipless pedals I had, but they'll work for a test ride.

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Old 11-15-23, 06:31 PM
  #7016  
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
36 / 32 is my granny gear, and the lowest gear I've ever had.
.
My local test 'hill' is about 300 yards of approx 5-7%, on the Avanti I use 42/28 (lowest gear) which is exactly the same ratio as 36/24.
36/32 felt a lot like spinning out going up that 'hill' (but I tend towards mashing anyway) which I recon is a good thing.
Same here. This summer I 'altered' my MB GR's cogs from 2x5 to 3x5 with the change to a VeloOrange cassette BB and an eBay'd Stronglight 93 52/47/36 crank set. In back I cobbled up a Suntour Perfect FW off the original hub but with a 14/18/21/26/32 cluster made up with the help of eBay and PastorBobinNH.

My local 'challenge' hill's 0.70 mile, 250' elevation. The OEM 42/28 left me gasping halfway up, the 36/32's already proved its value around the hills in town; I have yet to try it on that 'challenge' hill, it didn't get installed until the weather turned off for the season.

Supposed to be 62°F & WINDY tomorrow, may be my last chance for the year!
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Old 11-19-23, 01:51 AM
  #7017  
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Land Shark progress, I hate cabling handlebars so I'm doing it on the front end of the assembly. Trim the cabling to fit in the morning then wrap the bars.

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Old 11-23-23, 01:45 PM
  #7018  
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Didn't wrench on anything this morning, but hung some tools up that were not organized in my toolbox. Not quite Five S, but a solid 4 anyway.

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Old 11-24-23, 09:36 AM
  #7019  
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inspiring
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Old 11-24-23, 12:43 PM
  #7020  
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Still trying to find a decent compromise between 1950's French cycling haute couture and my cycling inseam ...

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Old 11-24-23, 12:52 PM
  #7021  
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Old 11-24-23, 02:07 PM
  #7022  
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@sloar, I like that. Too many Colnagos and other Italian bikes are too gaudy for my taste, but this one's really nice.
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Old 11-24-23, 02:24 PM
  #7023  
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Originally Posted by noglider
@sloar, I like that. Too many Colnagos and other Italian bikes are too gaudy for my taste, but this one's really nice.
Thanks, I threw some aero levers that I have on for now until I find some proper levers. But at least it’s rideable.
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Old 11-24-23, 04:02 PM
  #7024  
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Originally Posted by sloar
Thanks, I threw some aero levers that I have on for now until I find some proper levers. But at least it’s rideable.
Very nice and nicely done.
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Old 11-24-23, 04:16 PM
  #7025  
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Originally Posted by merziac
Very nice and nicely done.

Thank you!
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