Building a road bike: Still worth it to go rim over disc?
#1
Noob Bee
Thread Starter
Building a road bike: Still worth it to go rim over disc?
Turns out I'm more mechanically-inclined towards road cycling than I realized when I first got into it, so I've decided that for my next bike I want to try picking the parts and making it truly mine, better deals on pre-made bikes not withstanding.
It's intimidating to know what will work best for you given the range of options out there. One of the big questions I'm facing is whether it is worth it to go with a rim brake frame or to pony up and go disc brake.
Personally, I don't really have a great preference, as they both have some good arguments to be had. For rim brakes, I've only used rim brakes up until now and never had a problem with them. They are generally lighter than disc brakes, generally have better aero properties, there's a wide range of affordable frames out there that still take rim brakes (although this will attenuate in the future), and relatedly (and crucially for those of us who are not pros or hedge fund managers) they are more affordable. You can find Shimano Dura Ace Di2 rim brake groupsets on eBay for ~$1200 or less.
On the other hand, disc brakes are obviously higher performance in terms of stopping power w/ better modulation. Crucially however they are more sustainable going into the future as disc brakes become (if not are already) the industry standard, particularly in the higher end range of components and builds. On the flip side, they are substantially more expensive than rim brakes.
So my thinking right now is that the sustainability argument for disc brakes is a bit overblown, as I'm thinking I can stock up on rim brake pads and pilfer eBay for components as needed, and if I build a high end rim brake road bike this year I could get a solid 10 years or so out of that bike. In fact, I would speculate that a carbon frame would wear out before the brake system would, as I see Shimano Ultegra rim brakes still kicking it 10, 15 years later.
What do you all think? As an admitted noob at this, I'd be happy to hear your thoughts on whether it's worth it to build a high end rim brake bike today (and spend that extra money on, say, a wheelset), or whether it would best to "get with the times" and go disc?
Some details about me as a rider just building an identity if it helps inform your thoughts:
It's intimidating to know what will work best for you given the range of options out there. One of the big questions I'm facing is whether it is worth it to go with a rim brake frame or to pony up and go disc brake.
Personally, I don't really have a great preference, as they both have some good arguments to be had. For rim brakes, I've only used rim brakes up until now and never had a problem with them. They are generally lighter than disc brakes, generally have better aero properties, there's a wide range of affordable frames out there that still take rim brakes (although this will attenuate in the future), and relatedly (and crucially for those of us who are not pros or hedge fund managers) they are more affordable. You can find Shimano Dura Ace Di2 rim brake groupsets on eBay for ~$1200 or less.
On the other hand, disc brakes are obviously higher performance in terms of stopping power w/ better modulation. Crucially however they are more sustainable going into the future as disc brakes become (if not are already) the industry standard, particularly in the higher end range of components and builds. On the flip side, they are substantially more expensive than rim brakes.
So my thinking right now is that the sustainability argument for disc brakes is a bit overblown, as I'm thinking I can stock up on rim brake pads and pilfer eBay for components as needed, and if I build a high end rim brake road bike this year I could get a solid 10 years or so out of that bike. In fact, I would speculate that a carbon frame would wear out before the brake system would, as I see Shimano Ultegra rim brakes still kicking it 10, 15 years later.
What do you all think? As an admitted noob at this, I'd be happy to hear your thoughts on whether it's worth it to build a high end rim brake bike today (and spend that extra money on, say, a wheelset), or whether it would best to "get with the times" and go disc?
Some details about me as a rider just building an identity if it helps inform your thoughts:
- I'm pretty new to road cycling, but I love it so far.
- My favorite parts about cycling right now is sprints on the flat, but I kinda like climbing in a weird, twisted way. I suck at it, but still.
- I tried a carbon handlebars and hated them. Something about my FSA Omega Compact alloy handlebar just felt "right" by comparison.
- All the folks I ride with use SRAM, I'm the weird one with Shimano.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,451
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4416 Post(s)
Liked 4,871 Times
in
3,015 Posts
Lower cost is the only reason I can see at this point to go with rim brakes. Advantages like "better aero" are pretty spurious given that pretty much all high end cutting edge aero bikes are disc only. As a "noob" it isn't going to matter anyway. So don't overthink stuff like this. Same goes for weight. The difference won't matter.
Another factor you might want to consider is tyre width. Personally, I wouldn't buy a new frame with less than 32 mm tyre clearance and that rules out most rim braked frames.
Another factor you might want to consider is tyre width. Personally, I wouldn't buy a new frame with less than 32 mm tyre clearance and that rules out most rim braked frames.
#3
Noob Bee
Thread Starter
Lower cost is the only reason I can see at this point to go with rim brakes. Advantages like "better aero" are pretty spurious given that pretty much all high end cutting edge aero bikes are disc only. As a "noob" it isn't going to matter anyway. So don't overthink stuff like this. Same goes for weight. The difference won't matter.
Another factor you might want to consider is tyre width. Personally, I wouldn't buy a new frame with less than 32 mm tyre clearance and that rules out most rim braked frames.
Another factor you might want to consider is tyre width. Personally, I wouldn't buy a new frame with less than 32 mm tyre clearance and that rules out most rim braked frames.
#4
ignominious poltroon
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 4,047
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2241 Post(s)
Liked 3,443 Times
in
1,802 Posts
You also got outstanding advice on getting a frame that will enable you to run wide tires. Personally, I wouldn't get anything that prohibited mounting 38mm tires.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times
in
972 Posts
If you're interested in running your tires tubeless, there's a very limited selection of tubeless rim brake rims.
#6
slow on any terrain
Well, I'm a retired accounting professor and used to be good at making the simple complex . . .
In this case, pretty straightforward, though.
I spent most of the last year riding a bike with Shimano di2 with disk brakes. They work fine. Recently got my custom ride with Campy Chorus rim brakes.
My experience is that the Campy brakes are functionally equivalent to the disks. Or maybe I should say, they work just as well.
Good luck with your quest!
In this case, pretty straightforward, though.
I spent most of the last year riding a bike with Shimano di2 with disk brakes. They work fine. Recently got my custom ride with Campy Chorus rim brakes.
My experience is that the Campy brakes are functionally equivalent to the disks. Or maybe I should say, they work just as well.
Good luck with your quest!
#7
Noob Bee
Thread Starter
Me too. I did in fact worry about this a lot, but went with discs (when it was a new thing on road bikes, in 2014), and have zero regrets. I would never buy another bike without hydraulic disc brakes (or a frame without mounts).
You also got outstanding advice on getting a frame that will enable you to run wide tires. Personally, I wouldn't get anything that prohibited mounting 38mm tires.
You also got outstanding advice on getting a frame that will enable you to run wide tires. Personally, I wouldn't get anything that prohibited mounting 38mm tires.
Likes For sir_crash_alot:
#8
Noob Bee
Thread Starter
Well, I'm a retired accounting professor and used to be good at making the simple complex . . .
In this case, pretty straightforward, though.
I spent most of the last year riding a bike with Shimano di2 with disk brakes. They work fine. Recently got my custom ride with Campy Chorus rim brakes.
My experience is that the Campy brakes are functionally equivalent to the disks. Or maybe I should say, they work just as well.
Good luck with your quest!
In this case, pretty straightforward, though.
I spent most of the last year riding a bike with Shimano di2 with disk brakes. They work fine. Recently got my custom ride with Campy Chorus rim brakes.
My experience is that the Campy brakes are functionally equivalent to the disks. Or maybe I should say, they work just as well.
Good luck with your quest!
#9
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2022
Location: San Diego, California USA
Posts: 353
Bikes: 1974 Masi GC, 1982 Trek 728 (aka 720), 1992 Trek Multitrack 750
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked 222 Times
in
140 Posts
Here is a nice and balanced article on the subject from Rodriguez Bicyclez in Seattle (they know a thing or two about brakes):
https://www.rodbikes.com/articles/di...sco-fever.html
https://www.rodbikes.com/articles/di...sco-fever.html
Likes For HelpSingularity:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,451
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4416 Post(s)
Liked 4,871 Times
in
3,015 Posts
Yeah, showing my noob-skin there, because now that it was mentioned and I'm thinking about it, the roads where I am are not great. I've had two flats in the last three weeks by hitting gravel in our bike lanes. That, combined with the potholes and other road goodies really motivate wider tires.
#11
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 17,984
Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate, Ultegra; Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace; Cannondale R500 RX100; Schwinn Circuit, Sante; Lotus Supreme, Dura Ace
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10440 Post(s)
Liked 11,914 Times
in
6,101 Posts
"Building A road bike"
I believe I've found your problem. Building bikes is like potato chips - you can't do just one!
I believe I've found your problem. Building bikes is like potato chips - you can't do just one!
__________________
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
Likes For genejockey:
#12
Sunshine
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 16,616
Bikes: '18 class built steel roadbike, '19 Fairlight Secan, '88 Schwinn Premis , Black Mountain Cycles Monstercross V4, '89 Novara Trionfo
Mentioned: 123 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10966 Post(s)
Liked 7,493 Times
in
4,189 Posts
A comment about not buying a frame that can handle less than 32mm tires was made earlier because rim brakes can't fit wider than that.
...but they can. Easily.
There are multiple brake calipers that are high quality and can handle a 35 or even 38mm tire. TRP and VeloOrange both have really well reviewed options. Mt main road bike has trp957 calipers with 32mm tires right now, and a 35 easily fits. The calipers are stiff and react consistently, just like short reach calipers.
...but they can. Easily.
There are multiple brake calipers that are high quality and can handle a 35 or even 38mm tire. TRP and VeloOrange both have really well reviewed options. Mt main road bike has trp957 calipers with 32mm tires right now, and a 35 easily fits. The calipers are stiff and react consistently, just like short reach calipers.
Likes For mstateglfr:
#13
...
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Whitestone and Rensselaerville, New York
Posts: 1,518
Bikes: Bicycles? Yup.
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 482 Post(s)
Liked 1,593 Times
in
739 Posts
I think the killer reason for going disc is carbon rims. My carbon rims have been through shocking potholes without issue and they're so darn lightweight.
I really like my rim brake bikes, but I find braking is superior with disc and especially in the wet.
I really like my rim brake bikes, but I find braking is superior with disc and especially in the wet.
Likes For BTinNYC:
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,451
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4416 Post(s)
Liked 4,871 Times
in
3,015 Posts
A comment about not buying a frame that can handle less than 32mm tires was made earlier because rim brakes can't fit wider than that.
...but they can. Easily.
There are multiple brake calipers that are high quality and can handle a 35 or even 38mm tire. TRP and VeloOrange both have really well reviewed options. Mt main road bike has trp957 calipers with 32mm tires right now, and a 35 easily fits. The calipers are stiff and react consistently, just like short reach calipers.
...but they can. Easily.
There are multiple brake calipers that are high quality and can handle a 35 or even 38mm tire. TRP and VeloOrange both have really well reviewed options. Mt main road bike has trp957 calipers with 32mm tires right now, and a 35 easily fits. The calipers are stiff and react consistently, just like short reach calipers.
#15
Senior Member
How new to road riding? No matter how carefully you pick your first bike, it will not be optimum for you, and you'll be taking this experience to move on to bike #2 and then bike #3. Based on extensive experience with folks needing service, bike #3 is about right or getting close. So I recommend you try a lot of bikes and don't spend a lot right away.
More:
More:
- Really good mechanical discs have about the same stopping power as good rim brakes. I'm riding R8000 rim brakes over some long long descents, and they are really good. Direct-mount rim brakes are even better.
- Discs are going to add roughly 2 pounds to your bike between the rotors, heavier calipers, bulked-up frame and fork, and bulked-up rims/spokes/hubs. Plus $500+ to your tab. Are you doing warp speed descents in the rain? Do you have arthritic hands or carry camping gear on your bike?
- Bike weight is the biggest factor in road performance - particularly wheel weight. Riding with a group - the last thing you want is to get dropped off the back on a climb or a hard acceleration out of a corner.
- Fat tires (>25mm).. Just how heavy are you? If you are appropriately cyclist svelte, then fatter tires are heavy, less aero, and have higher rolling resistance. The heavy fatter rims required for these tires double-down on this disadvantage. Tires and wheels suitable for gravel riding are too slow for fast road riding.
- Tubeless: if you live in goathead country or do not know how to field change a flat, then I guess tubeless is good. Otherwise, this is a PITA solution inappropriately borrowed from the MTB world. Like the other items in the list above.
- Finally, the bike industry and associated bike shops: listen carefully what they say, but remember that they are always trying to sell you something. Something new.
Likes For Dave Mayer:
#16
Firm but gentle
Rim brakes are very good, and as addressed earlier, there are some ways to run bigger tires with them. I have a bike with carbon rims and old Weinmann rim brakes, but I would never recommend it. Cable actuated discs are very good, also. In my opinion hydraulic disc is the only way to go on anything remotely new and nice, worth every penny.
Aero disadvantage and weight of a disc set-up (I'm dubious of the 2 pound claim) will not get you dropped on a local ride or race, you will get dropped because you burned too many matches or are simply out-gunned and out-motored.
If you really like sprinting, after you get your road bike get a track bike with front brake and an 85 inch gear or so, for fun and road sprint training (assuming you have flat to gently rolling places to ride)
Aero disadvantage and weight of a disc set-up (I'm dubious of the 2 pound claim) will not get you dropped on a local ride or race, you will get dropped because you burned too many matches or are simply out-gunned and out-motored.
If you really like sprinting, after you get your road bike get a track bike with front brake and an 85 inch gear or so, for fun and road sprint training (assuming you have flat to gently rolling places to ride)
Likes For venturi95:
#17
slow on any terrain
I ride for enjoyment and health. I ordered a David Kirk custom steel frame about a year ago and decided to go with Campy for the cachet factor and--after reading many good reviews of Campy hardware--the reputation for excellent performance.
The Kirk would take over 10 months for delivery so I bought a Ribble titanium road bike to tide me over. Ribble equipped with Shimano 105 di2 (electric and disk).
The Ribble satisfied my curiosity about electric shifting and disk brakes and I have only good things to say about them here.
Nonetheless, having had the Kirk for about a month (and 300+ miles) now, I'm completely sold on Campy mechanical group sets for the kind of riding I do.
#18
Klaatu..Verata..Necktie?
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 17,984
Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate, Ultegra; Canyon Endurace, 105; Battaglin MAX, Chorus; Bianchi 928 Veloce; Ritchey Road Logic, Dura Ace; Cannondale R500 RX100; Schwinn Circuit, Sante; Lotus Supreme, Dura Ace
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 10440 Post(s)
Liked 11,914 Times
in
6,101 Posts
My serious thoughts are that setting up the cables and all for rim brakes is a lot easier than setting up hydro disc brakes. BUT, IME as good as the latest generations of rim brakes are, hydro disc brakes are better. My question would be, what kind of riding are you doing? Because of road closures from all of the rain we got this winter, have mostly been riding more rolling terrain without any big descents, so it's not a big deal. If I were doing big descents, I prefer the discs, but the rim brakes work fine, too.
__________________
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
"Don't take life so serious-it ain't nohow permanent."
"Everybody's gotta be somewhere." - Eccles
#19
Mother Nature's Son
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sussex County, Delaware
Posts: 3,118
Bikes: 2014 Orbea Avant MD30, 2004 Airborne Zeppelin TI, 2003 Lemond Poprad, 2001 Lemond Tourmalet, 2014? Soma Smoothie
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 853 Post(s)
Liked 1,437 Times
in
819 Posts
I live in flatland Delaware, I do ride when it is wet. The biggest issue with both rim and disc brakes is getting them set up properly, that is usually easier with rim brakes. Once you learn how to get the disc brakes set up, and do it a couple of times, really not an issue. MY experience is only with mechanical disc, never had hydraulic. With rim brakes, the pads, and rims being used have a big affect on performance. Kool Stop Salmon pads, or other brands of that type, and machined rims, IME, are go to for me. For overall braking performance, for where and how I ride most of the time, I give a very slight edge to disc, more about the modulation than the actual stopping.
Looking at the future of availability does not concern me, but, if I was younger and looking at long term, pretty sure hydraulic disc is the way I would go. If I was looking to get new mechanical disc brakes, I would be looking at the TRP Spyres, or another brand that has dual piston braking. I like to think I would still have a rim brake bike.
Looking at the future of availability does not concern me, but, if I was younger and looking at long term, pretty sure hydraulic disc is the way I would go. If I was looking to get new mechanical disc brakes, I would be looking at the TRP Spyres, or another brand that has dual piston braking. I like to think I would still have a rim brake bike.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,660
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1248 Post(s)
Liked 1,323 Times
in
674 Posts
Turns out I'm more mechanically-inclined towards road cycling than I realized when I first got into it, so I've decided that for my next bike I want to try picking the parts and making it truly mine, better deals on pre-made bikes not withstanding.
It's intimidating to know what will work best for you given the range of options out there. One of the big questions I'm facing is whether it is worth it to go with a rim brake frame or to pony up and go disc brake.
Personally, I don't really have a great preference, as they both have some good arguments to be had. For rim brakes, I've only used rim brakes up until now and never had a problem with them. They are generally lighter than disc brakes, generally have better aero properties, there's a wide range of affordable frames out there that still take rim brakes (although this will attenuate in the future), and relatedly (and crucially for those of us who are not pros or hedge fund managers) they are more affordable. You can find Shimano Dura Ace Di2 rim brake groupsets on eBay for ~$1200 or less.
On the other hand, disc brakes are obviously higher performance in terms of stopping power w/ better modulation. Crucially however they are more sustainable going into the future as disc brakes become (if not are already) the industry standard, particularly in the higher end range of components and builds. On the flip side, they are substantially more expensive than rim brakes.
So my thinking right now is that the sustainability argument for disc brakes is a bit overblown, as I'm thinking I can stock up on rim brake pads and pilfer eBay for components as needed, and if I build a high end rim brake road bike this year I could get a solid 10 years or so out of that bike. In fact, I would speculate that a carbon frame would wear out before the brake system would, as I see Shimano Ultegra rim brakes still kicking it 10, 15 years later.
What do you all think? As an admitted noob at this, I'd be happy to hear your thoughts on whether it's worth it to build a high end rim brake bike today (and spend that extra money on, say, a wheelset), or whether it would best to "get with the times" and go disc?
Some details about me as a rider just building an identity if it helps inform your thoughts:
It's intimidating to know what will work best for you given the range of options out there. One of the big questions I'm facing is whether it is worth it to go with a rim brake frame or to pony up and go disc brake.
Personally, I don't really have a great preference, as they both have some good arguments to be had. For rim brakes, I've only used rim brakes up until now and never had a problem with them. They are generally lighter than disc brakes, generally have better aero properties, there's a wide range of affordable frames out there that still take rim brakes (although this will attenuate in the future), and relatedly (and crucially for those of us who are not pros or hedge fund managers) they are more affordable. You can find Shimano Dura Ace Di2 rim brake groupsets on eBay for ~$1200 or less.
On the other hand, disc brakes are obviously higher performance in terms of stopping power w/ better modulation. Crucially however they are more sustainable going into the future as disc brakes become (if not are already) the industry standard, particularly in the higher end range of components and builds. On the flip side, they are substantially more expensive than rim brakes.
So my thinking right now is that the sustainability argument for disc brakes is a bit overblown, as I'm thinking I can stock up on rim brake pads and pilfer eBay for components as needed, and if I build a high end rim brake road bike this year I could get a solid 10 years or so out of that bike. In fact, I would speculate that a carbon frame would wear out before the brake system would, as I see Shimano Ultegra rim brakes still kicking it 10, 15 years later.
What do you all think? As an admitted noob at this, I'd be happy to hear your thoughts on whether it's worth it to build a high end rim brake bike today (and spend that extra money on, say, a wheelset), or whether it would best to "get with the times" and go disc?
Some details about me as a rider just building an identity if it helps inform your thoughts:
- I'm pretty new to road cycling, but I love it so far.
- My favorite parts about cycling right now is sprints on the flat, but I kinda like climbing in a weird, twisted way. I suck at it, but still.
- I tried a carbon handlebars and hated them. Something about my FSA Omega Compact alloy handlebar just felt "right" by comparison.
- All the folks I ride with use SRAM, I'm the weird one with Shimano.
But rest assured you will love your bespoke to you bike regardless of braking system selection.
Last edited by Atlas Shrugged; 06-24-23 at 05:03 PM.
Likes For Atlas Shrugged:
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,954
Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3956 Post(s)
Liked 7,307 Times
in
2,949 Posts
You should definitely spend a lot of time pondering this decision because, if you make the wrong choice, you will never recover from it.
Likes For tomato coupe:
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 3,691
Bikes: Too many bikes, too little time to ride
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 431 Post(s)
Liked 460 Times
in
318 Posts
Rim brakes have always worked just fine for me over the last 20 years or so that I've been biking seriously. That said, disc brakes instill more confidence on steep descents. For me, this psychological benefit of discs outweighs their objectively better stopping performance difference.
Beyond braking, however, disc configurations provide other benefits like not worrying about your carbon rims delaminating (if using rim-brake carbon wheels), and having wider tire clearance (this is incidental to how frame designs have evolved and not due to disc brakes per se).
My biggest apprehension towards discs is that they tend to be heavier (as a system: rotors, calipers, fluid, wheels, etc.) but I must admit that modern disc setups of today don't suffer as much of a weight penalty as they did just a few years ago. As such weight would not be a deciding factor for me now.
Thinking about this the other way, what advantages do rim brake bike provide over discs? Cost, weight, and simplicity/purism come to mind.
Beyond braking, however, disc configurations provide other benefits like not worrying about your carbon rims delaminating (if using rim-brake carbon wheels), and having wider tire clearance (this is incidental to how frame designs have evolved and not due to disc brakes per se).
My biggest apprehension towards discs is that they tend to be heavier (as a system: rotors, calipers, fluid, wheels, etc.) but I must admit that modern disc setups of today don't suffer as much of a weight penalty as they did just a few years ago. As such weight would not be a deciding factor for me now.
Thinking about this the other way, what advantages do rim brake bike provide over discs? Cost, weight, and simplicity/purism come to mind.
#23
Should Be More Popular
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 43,057
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 560 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22600 Post(s)
Liked 8,928 Times
in
4,160 Posts
Both are viable. If you ride in the wet or long descents you probably would lean towards disc brakes.
If you are a retrogrouch like me, lean towards rim brakes.
Realize that medium to high end Shimano (ie 105/Ultegra/DA) will not support rim brakes going forward.
If you are a retrogrouch like me, lean towards rim brakes.
Realize that medium to high end Shimano (ie 105/Ultegra/DA) will not support rim brakes going forward.
#24
Senior Member
I've built up many bikes and built up four disc frames. Disc doesn't add over a pound of weight. Support for new rim brake groupsets is fading quickly. Disc frames can accept wider rims and tires. I have 23-25mm IW hookless rims that allow tire pressure in the 50's with 28-30mm tires for a greatly improved ride. I use carbon rims and don't have to worry about brake pads wearing out a rim. Even finding new rim brake frames is difficult.
There's some great deals on SRAM force axs parts right now.
There's some great deals on SRAM force axs parts right now.
Likes For DaveSSS:
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,451
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4416 Post(s)
Liked 4,871 Times
in
3,015 Posts
How new to road riding? No matter how carefully you pick your first bike, it will not be optimum for you, and you'll be taking this experience to move on to bike #2 and then bike #3. Based on extensive experience with folks needing service, bike #3 is about right or getting close. So I recommend you try a lot of bikes and don't spend a lot right away.
More:
More:
- Really good mechanical discs have about the same stopping power as good rim brakes. I'm riding R8000 rim brakes over some long long descents, and they are really good. Direct-mount rim brakes are even better.
- Discs are going to add roughly 2 pounds to your bike between the rotors, heavier calipers, bulked-up frame and fork, and bulked-up rims/spokes/hubs. Plus $500+ to your tab. Are you doing warp speed descents in the rain? Do you have arthritic hands or carry camping gear on your bike?
- Bike weight is the biggest factor in road performance - particularly wheel weight. Riding with a group - the last thing you want is to get dropped off the back on a climb or a hard acceleration out of a corner.
- Fat tires (>25mm).. Just how heavy are you? If you are appropriately cyclist svelte, then fatter tires are heavy, less aero, and have higher rolling resistance. The heavy fatter rims required for these tires double-down on this disadvantage. Tires and wheels suitable for gravel riding are too slow for fast road riding.
- Tubeless: if you live in goathead country or do not know how to field change a flat, then I guess tubeless is good. Otherwise, this is a PITA solution inappropriately borrowed from the MTB world. Like the other items in the list above.
- Finally, the bike industry and associated bike shops: listen carefully what they say, but remember that they are always trying to sell you something. Something new.
Likes For PeteHski: