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Bridgestone bike ID help

Old 01-20-20, 11:41 PM
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dtharakad
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Bridgestone bike ID help

hi
I got this bike recently with the serial number "8k64760" in it.
Does any of you recognize this bike.
I'm not allowed to post photos here, since its my 1st post.
But the bike has 2x6 gears.
and originally gear shifters were in the frame, I have fixed it to the handle with cables.
Bike weight is around 11.5kgs.


BTW, I'm very new to cycling, its been 2 weeks since I've got this used bike

Last edited by dtharakad; 01-20-20 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 01-21-20, 12:20 AM
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Old 01-21-20, 06:23 AM
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That looks like an adhesive bonded frameset, which would make it one of Bridgestone's Radac series. These were only offered 1987-1989 in the USA and the serial number indicates it was manufactured in 1988. However, the lugs with the cable ports don't match the Radac models I've seen. The components are also lower level. I'm wondering if it's a non-USA market model? ,
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Old 01-21-20, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by T-Mar
That looks like an adhesive bonded frameset, which would make it one of Bridgestone's Radac series. These were only offered 1987-1989 in the USA and the serial number indicates it was manufactured in 1988. However, the lugs with the cable ports don't match the Radac models I've seen. The components are also lower level. I'm wondering if it's a non-USA market model? ,
Well, the rims say it's Japanese. Previous user said it was used in Australia.
Probably he didn't want to do proper components. He wanted to clear his space by selling it to me.
I'm very new to cycling, got this to check whether I have a taste for cycling, before heavy investing
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Old 01-21-20, 08:40 AM
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How the heck can you brake and shift properly with those very wrong components?
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Old 01-21-20, 09:07 AM
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3 things regarding the setup of the bike:
1. The brake/shift levers on the handlebars are mountain bike levers. The clamp size is different than road bike brake levers, and the shift cable pull is different than the pull needed for road bike derailleurs. Not to mention these were not designed to be used with drop bars, ergonomically. I would replace with road components ASAP.
2. There should probably be a plastic bottom bracket cable guide mounted using the threaded hole underneath the bottom bracket shell. That will keep the cables from moving (better shifting) and also will make sure you don't wear away paint/aluminum from the bottom bracket shell from repeated shifts.
3. Loosen the stem and check where the minimum insertion point is. Unless it is an abnormally tall stem, it looks like the stem is not deep enough into the steerer tube, and could fail, causing injury.
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Old 01-21-20, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by dtharakad
Well, the rims say it's Japanese. Previous user said it was used in Australia.
Probably he didn't want to do proper components. He wanted to clear his space by selling it to me.
I'm very new to cycling, got this to check whether I have a taste for cycling, before heavy investing
Sorry for the confusion. The Radac were sold worldwide but in the USA they were only marketed for three years and the USA models don't match the subject bicycle. If it's an Australian market model, that may explain the differences, as models were often spec'd to cater to market preferences. Most forum members are USA based and only familiar with the American market models.The country of origin for the components doesn't necessarily match that of the bicycle, but in this case it does. Bridgestone is a Japanese brand and their adhesive bonded frames of the late 1980s were manufactured in Japan.
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Old 01-21-20, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by TenGrainBread
3 things regarding the setup of the bike:
1. The brake/shift levers on the handlebars are mountain bike levers. The clamp size is different than road bike brake levers, and the shift cable pull is different than the pull needed for road bike derailleurs. Not to mention these were not designed to be used with drop bars, ergonomically. I would replace with road components ASAP.
2. There should probably be a plastic bottom bracket cable guide mounted using the threaded hole underneath the bottom bracket shell. That will keep the cables from moving (better shifting) and also will make sure you don't wear away paint/aluminum from the bottom bracket shell from repeated shifts.
3. Loosen the stem and check where the minimum insertion point is. Unless it is an abnormally tall stem, it looks like the stem is not deep enough into the steerer tube, and could fail, causing injury.
1. I know. The seller gave it to me with flat handle and twist-grip shifters, as he has lost original shifters fixed to the bframe. I wanted to use original drop handle and used these shifters since road type shifters are really expensive. And to invest that money I don't know yet whether cycling is for me, it's been 2 weeks.

2. I removed it to check the serial number, and fixed it back again.

3. Yeah, I lifted it up for comfort. I'll check and adjust again.

BTW, components are just working for me. Yes it's not perfect.

Thanks, any clue to identify the bike would be helpful.

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Old 01-21-20, 10:53 AM
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May be a stainless Submariner type. Would have had stem shifters.
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Old 01-21-20, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by T-Mar
Sorry for the confusion. The Radac were sold worldwide but in the USA they were only marketed for three years and the USA models don't match the subject bicycle. If it's an Australian market model, that may explain the differences, as models were often spec'd to cater to market preferences. Most forum members are USA based and only familiar with the American market models.The country of origin for the components doesn't necessarily match that of the bicycle, but in this case it does. Bridgestone is a Japanese brand and their adhesive bonded frames of the late 1980s were manufactured in Japan.
Thanks
So far the best explanation.
So it's 1988 Bridgestone Radac.
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Old 01-21-20, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by curbtender
May be a stainless Submariner type. Would have had stem shifters.
Hi
Thanks.
Original shifters were in frame. You can see paint missing in the frame for shifters. Not stem.

What do you mean stainless submariner type?
Frame seems to be aluminum for me..
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Old 01-21-20, 12:00 PM
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Bridgestone made a series of bikes with this sort of lug work, and stainless steel main tubes. The ones I've seen here in the States were badged as a Kabuki brand (iconic "red face" Kabuki head badge), under the Submariner series. And they have unpainted main tubes, no doubt to "proclaim" to the world that they're stainless. They may have been painted/badged/marketed differently elsewhere, however. Put a strong magnet on one of the main tubes. Steel will have a strong attraction, stainless steel will have a weak attraction, and aluminum will have no attraction at all.

"Second the motion" to re-equip with road controls. Even if your MTB levers are working well, the experience will be better with road levers, which may affect your decision whether cycling is right for you. Or perhaps better put, if you still have doubts after riding for a while, and you think it's due to the controls, then don't give up on the sport. It sounds like you're outside the USA. Unless shipping to your country is very expensive, used road shifters / brake levers are easy to find and at least reasonable in price. Check the "C&V Sales" section here on BF.
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Old 01-21-20, 01:42 PM
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This is unlike any Submariner that I have seen. The lugs on the subject bicycle are almost flush with the tubes. The Submariner had very chunky lugs that were much larger than the diameter of the tubes, because the lugs were die cast around the tubes.
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Old 01-22-20, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by madpogue
Bridgestone made a series of bikes with this sort of lug work, and stainless steel main tubes. The ones I've seen here in the States were badged as a Kabuki brand (iconic "red face" Kabuki head badge), under the Submariner series. And they have unpainted main tubes, no doubt to "proclaim" to the world that they're stainless. They may have been painted/badged/marketed differently elsewhere, however. Put a strong magnet on one of the main tubes. Steel will have a strong attraction, stainless steel will have a weak attraction, and aluminum will have no attraction at all.

"Second the motion" to re-equip with road controls. Even if your MTB levers are working well, the experience will be better with road levers, which may affect your decision whether cycling is right for you. Or perhaps better put, if you still have doubts after riding for a while, and you think it's due to the controls, then don't give up on the sport. It sounds like you're outside the USA. Unless shipping to your country is very expensive, used road shifters / brake levers are easy to find and at least reasonable in price. Check the "C&V Sales" section here on BF.
Hi
Thanks for the update
I checked with a magnet, there seems to be no attraction to the frame. And also noticed in the place where frame shorter were paint is missing so the frame seems to be aluminum color.

The rims also had no attraction to the magnet.

Thanks for the tip about C&V there is a RB2 bike for sale. I asked him for the gear full set. We'll see.

Thank you
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Old 01-23-20, 01:46 PM
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Maybe Japenese market Radac, this one sold in Okinawa has internal cable routing but different lettering.

Radac

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Old 01-23-20, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Kobe
Maybe Japenese market Radac, this one sold in Okinawa has internal cable routing but different lettering.

Radac

Yes, the lugs on the auction bicycle appear to match the OP's. The other photos also show what appears to be steel stays and fork blades. Still, the OP's bicycle has no Radac logo, suggesting that Australian market may have been unique, or at least different from both Japan and the USA, in model name convention. Thxs for posting and confirming my earlier identification.
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Old 01-24-20, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Kobe
Maybe Japenese market Radac, this one sold in Okinawa has internal cable routing but different lettering.

Radac

Hi
Thanks for the confirmation.
So would you think RB2 full gear set is compatible with this bike. Or is it a good idea to buy brand new. I know it's a old bike
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Old 01-24-20, 05:22 AM
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Originally Posted by dtharakad
Hi
Thanks for the confirmation.
So would you think RB2 full gear set is compatible with this bike. Or is it a good idea to buy brand new. I know it's a old bike
The Radac probably came with a Ultegra group, similar to an RB-1, but if you have an Exage 400 group available it would definitely be a step up over what is on their now.

If you decide to change the cables to, make sure you use the old cables to fish the new ones thru the internal routing holes by taping it to the end.
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Old 01-24-20, 05:54 AM
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For what it's worth, it's definitely a Radac. I have had three Japanese market bikes, two hybrids with single rear mech cable routing and a road frame with down tube shifter mounts, the configuration regards lugs, aluminium front triangle and steel rear, steel fork were the same across all 3, the only thing to not is the internally routed rear brake ran right to left on the hybrids and left to right on the road model! This is painted differently to the ones I have had but they didn't all say 'Radac' on them. Spec for the hybrids was pretty low brow, mainly trendy white Exage and Sakae cranks/stem/bars. They've also all been a 54 (top tube) frame, not sure if they made other sizes!

The last one I had (now sold), the other hybrid is my shopping/lock up in London bike:
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Old 01-24-20, 05:55 AM
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Gah, not enough posts to show pictures.
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Old 01-24-20, 05:56 AM
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OK, that's enough.


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Old 01-24-20, 05:59 AM
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And the other, put to use carrying the Christmas tree.


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