Bridgestone bike ID help
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Bridgestone bike ID help
hi
I got this bike recently with the serial number "8k64760" in it.
Does any of you recognize this bike.
I'm not allowed to post photos here, since its my 1st post.
But the bike has 2x6 gears.
and originally gear shifters were in the frame, I have fixed it to the handle with cables.
Bike weight is around 11.5kgs.
BTW, I'm very new to cycling, its been 2 weeks since I've got this used bike
I got this bike recently with the serial number "8k64760" in it.
Does any of you recognize this bike.
I'm not allowed to post photos here, since its my 1st post.
But the bike has 2x6 gears.
and originally gear shifters were in the frame, I have fixed it to the handle with cables.
Bike weight is around 11.5kgs.
BTW, I'm very new to cycling, its been 2 weeks since I've got this used bike
Last edited by dtharakad; 01-20-20 at 11:58 PM.
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That looks like an adhesive bonded frameset, which would make it one of Bridgestone's Radac series. These were only offered 1987-1989 in the USA and the serial number indicates it was manufactured in 1988. However, the lugs with the cable ports don't match the Radac models I've seen. The components are also lower level. I'm wondering if it's a non-USA market model? ,
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That looks like an adhesive bonded frameset, which would make it one of Bridgestone's Radac series. These were only offered 1987-1989 in the USA and the serial number indicates it was manufactured in 1988. However, the lugs with the cable ports don't match the Radac models I've seen. The components are also lower level. I'm wondering if it's a non-USA market model? ,
Probably he didn't want to do proper components. He wanted to clear his space by selling it to me.
I'm very new to cycling, got this to check whether I have a taste for cycling, before heavy investing
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3 things regarding the setup of the bike:
1. The brake/shift levers on the handlebars are mountain bike levers. The clamp size is different than road bike brake levers, and the shift cable pull is different than the pull needed for road bike derailleurs. Not to mention these were not designed to be used with drop bars, ergonomically. I would replace with road components ASAP.
2. There should probably be a plastic bottom bracket cable guide mounted using the threaded hole underneath the bottom bracket shell. That will keep the cables from moving (better shifting) and also will make sure you don't wear away paint/aluminum from the bottom bracket shell from repeated shifts.
3. Loosen the stem and check where the minimum insertion point is. Unless it is an abnormally tall stem, it looks like the stem is not deep enough into the steerer tube, and could fail, causing injury.
1. The brake/shift levers on the handlebars are mountain bike levers. The clamp size is different than road bike brake levers, and the shift cable pull is different than the pull needed for road bike derailleurs. Not to mention these were not designed to be used with drop bars, ergonomically. I would replace with road components ASAP.
2. There should probably be a plastic bottom bracket cable guide mounted using the threaded hole underneath the bottom bracket shell. That will keep the cables from moving (better shifting) and also will make sure you don't wear away paint/aluminum from the bottom bracket shell from repeated shifts.
3. Loosen the stem and check where the minimum insertion point is. Unless it is an abnormally tall stem, it looks like the stem is not deep enough into the steerer tube, and could fail, causing injury.
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Well, the rims say it's Japanese. Previous user said it was used in Australia.
Probably he didn't want to do proper components. He wanted to clear his space by selling it to me.
I'm very new to cycling, got this to check whether I have a taste for cycling, before heavy investing
Probably he didn't want to do proper components. He wanted to clear his space by selling it to me.
I'm very new to cycling, got this to check whether I have a taste for cycling, before heavy investing
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3 things regarding the setup of the bike:
1. The brake/shift levers on the handlebars are mountain bike levers. The clamp size is different than road bike brake levers, and the shift cable pull is different than the pull needed for road bike derailleurs. Not to mention these were not designed to be used with drop bars, ergonomically. I would replace with road components ASAP.
2. There should probably be a plastic bottom bracket cable guide mounted using the threaded hole underneath the bottom bracket shell. That will keep the cables from moving (better shifting) and also will make sure you don't wear away paint/aluminum from the bottom bracket shell from repeated shifts.
3. Loosen the stem and check where the minimum insertion point is. Unless it is an abnormally tall stem, it looks like the stem is not deep enough into the steerer tube, and could fail, causing injury.
1. The brake/shift levers on the handlebars are mountain bike levers. The clamp size is different than road bike brake levers, and the shift cable pull is different than the pull needed for road bike derailleurs. Not to mention these were not designed to be used with drop bars, ergonomically. I would replace with road components ASAP.
2. There should probably be a plastic bottom bracket cable guide mounted using the threaded hole underneath the bottom bracket shell. That will keep the cables from moving (better shifting) and also will make sure you don't wear away paint/aluminum from the bottom bracket shell from repeated shifts.
3. Loosen the stem and check where the minimum insertion point is. Unless it is an abnormally tall stem, it looks like the stem is not deep enough into the steerer tube, and could fail, causing injury.
2. I removed it to check the serial number, and fixed it back again.
3. Yeah, I lifted it up for comfort. I'll check and adjust again.
BTW, components are just working for me. Yes it's not perfect.
Thanks, any clue to identify the bike would be helpful.
Last edited by dtharakad; 01-21-20 at 10:57 AM.
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May be a stainless Submariner type. Would have had stem shifters.
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Sorry for the confusion. The Radac were sold worldwide but in the USA they were only marketed for three years and the USA models don't match the subject bicycle. If it's an Australian market model, that may explain the differences, as models were often spec'd to cater to market preferences. Most forum members are USA based and only familiar with the American market models.The country of origin for the components doesn't necessarily match that of the bicycle, but in this case it does. Bridgestone is a Japanese brand and their adhesive bonded frames of the late 1980s were manufactured in Japan.
So far the best explanation.
So it's 1988 Bridgestone Radac.
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Bridgestone made a series of bikes with this sort of lug work, and stainless steel main tubes. The ones I've seen here in the States were badged as a Kabuki brand (iconic "red face" Kabuki head badge), under the Submariner series. And they have unpainted main tubes, no doubt to "proclaim" to the world that they're stainless. They may have been painted/badged/marketed differently elsewhere, however. Put a strong magnet on one of the main tubes. Steel will have a strong attraction, stainless steel will have a weak attraction, and aluminum will have no attraction at all.
"Second the motion" to re-equip with road controls. Even if your MTB levers are working well, the experience will be better with road levers, which may affect your decision whether cycling is right for you. Or perhaps better put, if you still have doubts after riding for a while, and you think it's due to the controls, then don't give up on the sport. It sounds like you're outside the USA. Unless shipping to your country is very expensive, used road shifters / brake levers are easy to find and at least reasonable in price. Check the "C&V Sales" section here on BF.
"Second the motion" to re-equip with road controls. Even if your MTB levers are working well, the experience will be better with road levers, which may affect your decision whether cycling is right for you. Or perhaps better put, if you still have doubts after riding for a while, and you think it's due to the controls, then don't give up on the sport. It sounds like you're outside the USA. Unless shipping to your country is very expensive, used road shifters / brake levers are easy to find and at least reasonable in price. Check the "C&V Sales" section here on BF.
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This is unlike any Submariner that I have seen. The lugs on the subject bicycle are almost flush with the tubes. The Submariner had very chunky lugs that were much larger than the diameter of the tubes, because the lugs were die cast around the tubes.
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Bridgestone made a series of bikes with this sort of lug work, and stainless steel main tubes. The ones I've seen here in the States were badged as a Kabuki brand (iconic "red face" Kabuki head badge), under the Submariner series. And they have unpainted main tubes, no doubt to "proclaim" to the world that they're stainless. They may have been painted/badged/marketed differently elsewhere, however. Put a strong magnet on one of the main tubes. Steel will have a strong attraction, stainless steel will have a weak attraction, and aluminum will have no attraction at all.
"Second the motion" to re-equip with road controls. Even if your MTB levers are working well, the experience will be better with road levers, which may affect your decision whether cycling is right for you. Or perhaps better put, if you still have doubts after riding for a while, and you think it's due to the controls, then don't give up on the sport. It sounds like you're outside the USA. Unless shipping to your country is very expensive, used road shifters / brake levers are easy to find and at least reasonable in price. Check the "C&V Sales" section here on BF.
"Second the motion" to re-equip with road controls. Even if your MTB levers are working well, the experience will be better with road levers, which may affect your decision whether cycling is right for you. Or perhaps better put, if you still have doubts after riding for a while, and you think it's due to the controls, then don't give up on the sport. It sounds like you're outside the USA. Unless shipping to your country is very expensive, used road shifters / brake levers are easy to find and at least reasonable in price. Check the "C&V Sales" section here on BF.
Thanks for the update
I checked with a magnet, there seems to be no attraction to the frame. And also noticed in the place where frame shorter were paint is missing so the frame seems to be aluminum color.
The rims also had no attraction to the magnet.
Thanks for the tip about C&V there is a RB2 bike for sale. I asked him for the gear full set. We'll see.
Thank you
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Maybe Japenese market Radac, this one sold in Okinawa has internal cable routing but different lettering.
Radac
Radac
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Maybe Japenese market Radac, this one sold in Okinawa has internal cable routing but different lettering.
Radac
Radac
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Maybe Japenese market Radac, this one sold in Okinawa has internal cable routing but different lettering.
Radac
Radac
Thanks for the confirmation.
So would you think RB2 full gear set is compatible with this bike. Or is it a good idea to buy brand new. I know it's a old bike
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If you decide to change the cables to, make sure you use the old cables to fish the new ones thru the internal routing holes by taping it to the end.
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Last edited by Kobe; 01-24-20 at 05:26 AM.
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For what it's worth, it's definitely a Radac. I have had three Japanese market bikes, two hybrids with single rear mech cable routing and a road frame with down tube shifter mounts, the configuration regards lugs, aluminium front triangle and steel rear, steel fork were the same across all 3, the only thing to not is the internally routed rear brake ran right to left on the hybrids and left to right on the road model! This is painted differently to the ones I have had but they didn't all say 'Radac' on them. Spec for the hybrids was pretty low brow, mainly trendy white Exage and Sakae cranks/stem/bars. They've also all been a 54 (top tube) frame, not sure if they made other sizes!
The last one I had (now sold), the other hybrid is my shopping/lock up in London bike:
The last one I had (now sold), the other hybrid is my shopping/lock up in London bike:
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