PX-10 Headset Install Question
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Detroit
Posts: 566
Bikes: '72 Paramount 15-9, '74 Schwinn Paramount P10-9, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, 1983 Schwinn Voyageur SP,17 Motobecane Cafe Noir, 1970 Raleigh Competition Tourist, 1999 Rans V-Rex
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 83 Times
in
45 Posts
PX-10 Headset Install Question
Bottom of the head tube is threaded but the lower Stronglight Competion bearing cup that fits into the headtube is not.
Simply insert the unthreaded end of the bearing cup into the head tube? If so, does anyone know why the bottom end of the head tube is threaded?
Do I have the wrong Stronglight headset. I believe it's a Competition v4.
Looks like this one:
Simply insert the unthreaded end of the bearing cup into the head tube? If so, does anyone know why the bottom end of the head tube is threaded?
Do I have the wrong Stronglight headset. I believe it's a Competition v4.
Looks like this one:
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Detroit
Posts: 566
Bikes: '72 Paramount 15-9, '74 Schwinn Paramount P10-9, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, 1983 Schwinn Voyageur SP,17 Motobecane Cafe Noir, 1970 Raleigh Competition Tourist, 1999 Rans V-Rex
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 83 Times
in
45 Posts
Looks like I purchased the wrong headset. Need a threaded set.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 701
Bikes: 1984 Bianchi Tipo Corsa, 1985 Cannondale SM600 (24/26)
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 235 Post(s)
Liked 349 Times
in
190 Posts
I don't have an answer, but was the one you removed original? The lower cup was not threaded, correct? Could what looks like threading on the lower head tube be some type of machining/milling marks instead? I have never heard of threaded head tubes, but I've never had a French bike!
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Detroit
Posts: 566
Bikes: '72 Paramount 15-9, '74 Schwinn Paramount P10-9, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, 1983 Schwinn Voyageur SP,17 Motobecane Cafe Noir, 1970 Raleigh Competition Tourist, 1999 Rans V-Rex
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 83 Times
in
45 Posts
I don't have an answer, but was the one you removed original? The lower cup was not threaded, correct? Could what looks like threading on the lower head tube be some type of machining/milling marks instead? I have never heard of threaded head tubes, but I've never had a French bike!
I purchased the entire group from a Forum member. He took it off one of the many PX-10s he had.
Hears a pic of the headset I have (Stronglight Competition):
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 17,155
Mentioned: 481 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3810 Post(s)
Liked 6,687 Times
in
2,609 Posts
I’ve never heard of threaded head tubes. Do you mean the head tube has threads cut into it?
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Detroit
Posts: 566
Bikes: '72 Paramount 15-9, '74 Schwinn Paramount P10-9, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, 1983 Schwinn Voyageur SP,17 Motobecane Cafe Noir, 1970 Raleigh Competition Tourist, 1999 Rans V-Rex
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 83 Times
in
45 Posts
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Detroit
Posts: 566
Bikes: '72 Paramount 15-9, '74 Schwinn Paramount P10-9, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, 1983 Schwinn Voyageur SP,17 Motobecane Cafe Noir, 1970 Raleigh Competition Tourist, 1999 Rans V-Rex
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 83 Times
in
45 Posts
#10
PM me your cotters
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ATL
Posts: 3,241
Mentioned: 80 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1137 Post(s)
Liked 590 Times
in
422 Posts
Already sent this directly, but here's the end-all-be-all of info you'd want on the Stronglight P3, V4 and S5 headsets: Stronglight headseta
The V4 has V-cut grooves for the races, if I recall. Easiest way to distinguish between it and what the P3 uses, and to tell if you have a mis-matched headset. I find the V-shaped races lend to a smoother experience, but that's entirely IMO.
That said, the cups here are press-in, no threads needed, just like many other headsets. It's not uncommon to find ridges like what you're seeing in the head tube, the top and bottom cups are still press-in. The only two threaded pieces in the headset are the top nut and adjustable race with "alligator teeth" which lock into the space under the top nut.
The stack you show in the 4th post above looks to be complete V4 headset (judging by the top nut) assuming there's a crown race under the bottom cup. I have no idea what that is in your 1st post, I've never seen that top nut before.
The V4 has V-cut grooves for the races, if I recall. Easiest way to distinguish between it and what the P3 uses, and to tell if you have a mis-matched headset. I find the V-shaped races lend to a smoother experience, but that's entirely IMO.
That said, the cups here are press-in, no threads needed, just like many other headsets. It's not uncommon to find ridges like what you're seeing in the head tube, the top and bottom cups are still press-in. The only two threaded pieces in the headset are the top nut and adjustable race with "alligator teeth" which lock into the space under the top nut.
The stack you show in the 4th post above looks to be complete V4 headset (judging by the top nut) assuming there's a crown race under the bottom cup. I have no idea what that is in your 1st post, I've never seen that top nut before.
#11
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
The V-shaped crown race was intended to be more durable than a traditional parabolic race by providing two bearing tracks in the race to spread the wear. The problem with it was that it was very fussy about alignment compared with a parabolic race. The later A-9 and B-10 roller bearing headsets addressed the alignment issue by using floating races.
Likes For JohnDThompson:
#12
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Detroit
Posts: 566
Bikes: '72 Paramount 15-9, '74 Schwinn Paramount P10-9, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, 1983 Schwinn Voyageur SP,17 Motobecane Cafe Noir, 1970 Raleigh Competition Tourist, 1999 Rans V-Rex
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 83 Times
in
45 Posts
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Detroit
Posts: 566
Bikes: '72 Paramount 15-9, '74 Schwinn Paramount P10-9, '73 Schwinn Super Sport, 1983 Schwinn Voyageur SP,17 Motobecane Cafe Noir, 1970 Raleigh Competition Tourist, 1999 Rans V-Rex
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 220 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 83 Times
in
45 Posts
Already sent this directly, but here's the end-all-be-all of info you'd want on the Stronglight P3, V4 and S5 headsets: Stronglight headseta
The V4 has V-cut grooves for the races, if I recall. Easiest way to distinguish between it and what the P3 uses, and to tell if you have a mis-matched headset. I find the V-shaped races lend to a smoother experience, but that's entirely IMO.
That said, the cups here are press-in, no threads needed, just like many other headsets. It's not uncommon to find ridges like what you're seeing in the head tube, the top and bottom cups are still press-in. The only two threaded pieces in the headset are the top nut and adjustable race with "alligator teeth" which lock into the space under the top nut.
The stack you show in the 4th post above looks to be complete V4 headset (judging by the top nut) assuming there's a crown race under the bottom cup. I have no idea what that is in your 1st post, I've never seen that top nut before.
The V4 has V-cut grooves for the races, if I recall. Easiest way to distinguish between it and what the P3 uses, and to tell if you have a mis-matched headset. I find the V-shaped races lend to a smoother experience, but that's entirely IMO.
That said, the cups here are press-in, no threads needed, just like many other headsets. It's not uncommon to find ridges like what you're seeing in the head tube, the top and bottom cups are still press-in. The only two threaded pieces in the headset are the top nut and adjustable race with "alligator teeth" which lock into the space under the top nut.
The stack you show in the 4th post above looks to be complete V4 headset (judging by the top nut) assuming there's a crown race under the bottom cup. I have no idea what that is in your 1st post, I've never seen that top nut before.
I pressed them in without much difficulty. Just a few taps with a rubber mallet. As you noted, turns a bit stiffer than others I've had.
#14
PM me your cotters
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ATL
Posts: 3,241
Mentioned: 80 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1137 Post(s)
Liked 590 Times
in
422 Posts
Note: I'm not an expert on Stronglight gear. It's very possible the P3 switched to the same top nut as V4 later, but I bought a few different well-priced headsets off the big auction site over the years which arrived with mixed races, spacers and cups. It't not uncommon apparently, but in the case of top nut, I personally think negligible. I think the top nut on the V4 looks better, think it'll alter stack height a hair, possibly in your favor.
Sounds like you may be getting closer! If this thing ends up anywhere near as nice as the Circuit buildup, it'll be a treat to see!
Sounds like you may be getting closer! If this thing ends up anywhere near as nice as the Circuit buildup, it'll be a treat to see!
#15
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 20,305
Mentioned: 130 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3464 Post(s)
Liked 2,829 Times
in
1,995 Posts
Cleaning the cutters takes time.
in a bad humor after Summer vacation?
notice very often there are labor strikes in France in early October?
cranky workers
in a bad humor after Summer vacation?
notice very often there are labor strikes in France in early October?
cranky workers
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Medford MA
Posts: 2,089
Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem
Mentioned: 80 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 964 Post(s)
Liked 1,451 Times
in
723 Posts
Looks to me like dull tooling run aggressively at slow speeds. My Herse has the same markings on a lot of alu parts. Seems to me they didn't sharpen tools as often in those days.
__________________
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
#18
Ride, Wrench, Swap, Race
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Northern California
Posts: 9,193
Bikes: Cheltenham-Pedersen racer, Boulder F/S Paris-Roubaix, Varsity racer, '52 Christophe, '62 Continental, '92 Merckx, '75 Limongi, '76 Presto, '72 Gitane SC, '71 Schwinn SS, etc.
Mentioned: 132 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1565 Post(s)
Liked 1,295 Times
in
865 Posts
Knurling of press-fit surfaces is commonly used to allow for more-relaxed manufacturing tolerances, so perhaps the texture was a deliberate thing in the headtube's bore(?).
Schwinn used a more pronounced and different style knurling on the outside of the steerer tube, where the crown race got pressed on. This was on the lower-tier bikes up to and including the Supersport, where this knurling often was a bit less than sufficient in making up for an otherwise very loose fit.
In other applications, knurling may be used to act as an assembly spacer for a liquid adhesive or sealant (to keep the adhesive layer to a more-consistent thickness), or to restore worn parts.
Schwinn used a more pronounced and different style knurling on the outside of the steerer tube, where the crown race got pressed on. This was on the lower-tier bikes up to and including the Supersport, where this knurling often was a bit less than sufficient in making up for an otherwise very loose fit.
In other applications, knurling may be used to act as an assembly spacer for a liquid adhesive or sealant (to keep the adhesive layer to a more-consistent thickness), or to restore worn parts.