mi_rider_88

Hello C&V Community!

I was recently fortunate enough to acquire the frameset to a 1989 Bridgestone RB-1 (frame, fork, and BB). I was hoping you guys and gals could provide suggestions for a modern-ish (brifters) drivetrain/groupset. My goal for this bike is just to have a fun, and "easy-to-use", "modern" set-up (I have an additional Ciocc SL Special with some cool pantographed components that I'm hoping to build as period-specific as I can). I was thinking an entire shimano groupset, but I am mostly interested in what you have to say! An upcoming move has the frame packed away neatly, but I will post pics as things get unpacked. I hope this catalog pic works in the meantime! This project will definitely take time to source and build, and I am already grateful for all of your advice!

Thank you!

bikemig 

This is easy. Just pick out a group that fits your budget; the best prices on shimano gear is likely one of the British online merchants.

ryansu

If you wanted to go the stock route I do see Suntour GPX stuff on Ebay, I am not one to obsess over period correctness I just refurbished an 86 Schwinn Touring bike with a mix of stock and more modern parts, IMHO whatever makes it fit and makes you smile when you ride it. Enjoy the journey.

mi_rider_88

Thank you so much for the quick replies! I guess I was turning to the forums because there are just so many options to choose from, both new and recent, that I was hoping to hear about other componentry that c&v'ers have had good experiences with both building and using from anytime period in which "brifters" have been employed. In passing, I read that the dura ace 7700 groupset was nice, for example. Also, I'm pretty new to builds, so I hope I'm asking a useful, and not pedantic question.

nlerner

If you're looking for a modern groupset, I agree with @bikemig that a online retailer like Ribble in the UK will deliver a very good deal.

bikemig 

Black would look good on this bike. Shimano 105 black from Ribble $365 shipped, Shimano 105 (5800) Black 11 Speed Double Groupset - Road Groupsets - Ribble Cycles

For wheels, shimano 105 hubs and h plus son tb 14 (also in black) from velomine for 190 (32 or 36 hole) from velomine, H PLUS SON Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike

The h plus son tb 14 rims look right on a vintage rim, plus they're a little wider which is a good thing. TB14 | H PLUS SON

You can run a 23-25c tire, perhaps even a 28c.

You will have to spread the rear triangle from 126 mm to 130. You can either cold set it or frankly you can just push the drop outs apart and put the wheel in. I've done that a few times. It works fine. It's tough the first time but gets easier. Or go to the trouble of cold setting it; it's your call.

St. Sheldon has an explanation:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

due ruote 

Another way to go about it would be to find a donor bike with the gear you like, swap everything over, and sell the frame. Or look on CL or EBay for a groupset in good shape. Some people have to have the latest gear and think their 8- or 9- speed 105 or Ultegra stuff is hopelessly antiquated. I think a Tricolor group on that bike would be great.

oddjob2

+1 My RB-1 has Ultegra Tricolor as does my Red Centurion Ironman Master. There is at least one additional bike in my fleet that also runs Tricolor, but I can't recall which one. I find GPX too notchy.

The Golden Boy 

Since you're asking about "modern" stuff on an old bike- I'd suggest going through the "Retro Roadie" thread:

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...i-s-ergos.html


All this stuff is my opinion- not fact- although my opinion is as close to fact as it can possibly get.

An RB-1 is not only a good frame, it's also very desirable. Nothing you put on that bike would be "too good" for the frame- your components won't outclass the frame. When Bridgestone built them, they were specced to meet a price point- hence using GPX instead of SL, Sprint, or Superbe Pro. With all the advancements in bicycle technology, if you're not tied to the "vintage" idea, it would make sense to use the highest quality stuff that you like and you can afford. Dura Ace 7700 and 7800 are both beautiful and sufficiently "classic" looking, same with Ultegra 6500 and 6600. I'm not familiar with Campagnolo groups, but it's a Japanese bike and Japanese parts were meant for it.

While there are individual parts that look good, again IMO- the cranks and derailleurs of Dura Ace 7900 and later and Ultegra 6700 and later look too swoopy and more at home on a black plastic bike than a classic steel frame.

Since you're talking about "modern" stuff, it shouldn't matter- but if you choose to use Pre-1997 Dura Ace components, the shifters and derailleurs do need to be matched together. (i.e. Dura Ace to Dura Ace)

Since this is a very desirable bike, it's entirely possible to put on a groupset that is "below" the prestige of the frame. If you're not a bike dork it won't matter to you, however if you are, there's nothing like that feeling of looking at your bike and KNOWING how badass it is.

Rocket-Sauce 

^^This.

Plus Nitto or Soma stem and bars.

Ditto for seatpost.

I have a 1990 RB-1 that I modernized for my wife. Mine was in pretty rough condition, so I completely stripped it and had it powder coated in her college color (maroon). I went the campy route, because that is what I had. Lovely bike.

Rocket-Sauce 

I just remembered that the seatpost is a sort of unusual size (27.0) so those options won't work. There are plenty of nice 27.0 posts out there. I'm using an American Classic, FWIW.

bikemig 

That's a good looking job on the RB-1. Good to see that campy group on the frame. I've been thinking of hanging campy chorus on my '93 RB 1. I *think* the bike should have shimano but then I have a complete campy group that needs a home . . .

mi_rider_88

This is an awesome rebuild, and the powder coat turned out great!

I'm rely grateful for the help (especially the tip on the seatpost), and I look forward to updating the post as it comes together. As always, I am definitely still open to ideas!

Rocket-Sauce 

I agree that it *should* have a Shimano/Suntour groupset in the same way a Colnago / De Rosa /Bianchi / Pinarello etc *should* have Campy. But I had a bunch of unused Campy stuff (it is mix of 10 speed Record, Daytona, and Chorus) and it works and looks great.

If I were building it today (I built that up 10 years ago), it would be hard to look past 105.

SpookyReverb

Everyone has an opinion, so here is mine!
If I was updating an RB-1 to have brifters, I'd probably start by looking at the stock build sheet of the '93 RB-1/8:
Brakeset: Shimano 600 Ultegra brakes, levers
Shift Levers: Shimano 600 Ultegra STI
Crankset: Shimano 600 Ultegra, 40/53 teeth
Pedals: Shimano 600 Ultegra clipless
Rear Cogs: 8-speed, 12 - 23 teeth
Seatpost: Kalloy, SP-248 220 mm
Saddle: Avocet racing 1, leather
Handlebar: Nitto, modified #165, deepdrop

I have a '92 RB-1 (with the bar-end shifters) and man, it is just the greatest. I've been contemplating doing what you're doing (buying another frame to build up a bit more modern), sounds fun.

Lscico

Dougie D

mountaindave 

+1 on all counts. There's no reason to put on whatever sweet group you have. Don't short change yourself.

I have the '91 RB-1 and love it. I have kept it mostly stock, just changed the cassette and chainrings and 650b-ed it. (See sig link below.)

Road Fan

My bud has a red one that has been cold-set to 130 and has a Dura-Ace 2x9/Ultegra mix on it. Having looked at it a lot and helped him with some setup and frame measurement, I have always thought there is nothing on it that will not work well with a silver Campy 2x10 (or 9), 2x11, or 3x10 setup, with Campy-hub tubular wheels. The bike was designed for road racing, after all. It works with any handlebar: Maes, Cinelli, modern compact, Noodle, randonneur, ... It doesn't have the geometry to become a traditional randonneuse without a change of fork but it does have the ride quality and responsiveness. One can certainly ride long-distance events on it, but some front bags might not work well. He uses actual 28 mm tires on it with Mavic Open Pro rims, and Hugi or DT hubs.

If you go with a Campy indexing rear hub you have to use a Campy cassette, rear derailleur, and shifting controls, be they Ergopower, bar ends, or down-tube. Mixing group levels is usually not a problem, unlike Shimano.

It can even take fenders!

The world is your oyster ...

mountaindave 

Ironfish653

Zombie thread or not, its never a bad time to talk about RB-1s.
They're the bike equivalent of a Porsche 911,(air-cooled) an 'instant classic' that's equally at home on vintage or modern running gear. Also, there's not much of an upper limit to how far you can build one.

Road Fan

I agree, Ironfish653!

RandolphCarter

I had the same questions when putting together my 1986 Trek 310 Elance.

My bike was free, and a total basket case. The cranks and bottom bracket were the only usable parts on it, everything else was completely shot.

I built mine up 3 years ago, I went with a complete Shimano 105 (5800) 11 speed groupset and Ultegra Hollowtech II bottom bracket - from Pro Bike Kit

The wheels are Mavic Open Pro 32 spoke 700C rims with DT Swiss spokes and Shimano 105 (5800) hubs - from Velomine

Based on recommendations here, I went with Panaracer Pasela 28mm tires - from Bike Tires Direct. They're fantastic.

With the conversion to 700c wheels, I also needed to mount a set of Tektro 539 dual pivot caliper brakes. I needed the 53mm of reach. They were from Amazon.

Other parts you'll need include cable stops and possibly a clamp-on adapter for the front derailleur

Everything went together very easily, the only sticking point was you need to take your time and be VERY patient when mounting and dialing in the front derailleur.

The brifters just work. Smooth, efforltess, predictable. Also, if you're on vacation with the bike and need a repair, most any shop is going to have the parts, tools, and skills needed to work on newer Shimano stuff.

Obeast

I would definitely change out the crankset for a compact because the beauty of modern gearing is that it makes going uphills less of a pain.

mountaindave