Lemond1985

Here's one:

https://modesto.craigslist.org/bik/d...097368547.html

herbarium

Huh, so you would have to trim the top of seat tube AND cut a line in there to give it some room to expand?

and in a nice red color... that's pretty cheap for the whole bike but on the other side of the country.

noglider 

@herbarium, that's a great video. RJ the Bike Guy is really smart, and I learned a lot from the video.

I saw the drill press and thought I'd never afford one. But I looked for drill presses just now, and it pointed me to this video where a guy reviews a cheap one that he paid $81 for. It turns out it's a good tool and worth having. The price has gone up to $99. I put it in my Amazon cart, but I probably won't buy it soon. I'll just save it for the occasion of need. RJ's video uses a seatpost with an integrated clamp. Those are nicer, but I've always managed fine with straight seatposts and external clamps. I can always get the angle right. The clamps do tend to wear out, but they're easy to replace. And it made the job easier.

I did not use a larger stem to reap the wedge. I used the wedge that came with the long stem. In theory, this means the surface area of contact is smaller than ideal, but it worked. I did not use a protractor to get the angle right. I just eyeballed the angle and used a hacksaw and a file. On the first cut, I got it wrong. I don't remember if I cut a second time or just filed it down or whatever, but with some work, I eventually got the angle right. (I added a $20 digital protractor to my Amazon cart, too, so thanks again, RJ.)

I love his technique for machining down the wedge. It's less error-prone than the technique I used on another project which was to reduce the size of a seatpost shim. My technique was to use even pressure as I pressed and turned the seatpost against my bench grinder wheel. It's also important to turn at an even speed. I measured frequently while filing down. So I compensate for lack of tools with extra care and measurement.

I wasn't sure I would succeed, because the whole thing seemed tricky, but I managed. It's not as hard as I expected, so you can do it, too.

noglider 

I also subscribed to Wranglerstar's youtube channel, because I can learn a lot from him.

AeroGut

Yeah, the result is just like on a typical modern aluminum frame. I might be able to track down whose bike it was and get a photo, but that will be harder during lockdown.

herbarium

For sure, now with the quarantine I have a bunch of time to try things out. thanks for the help.

A pic of this would be great to see, if you can manage to track this down.

cudak888 

ISO a short, recessed nut for a Tektro dual-pivot brake. Sure enough, in reverse of what everyone usually does, I need to convert a nutted front brake that I have here to recessed rear

EDIT: Thank you jethin !

-Kurt

gravelinmygears 

ISO Araya rm-17 or rm-395 rims, wheelset or comparable for a Bridgestone XO-1 build. I'm in Albuquerque, NM.

SurferRosa

You might want to tell folks your location. Rims/wheels are expensive to ship.

SurferRosa

That rear mech's cage return spring doesn't look like it's setup properly. These are usually fairly easy to overhaul.

gravelinmygears 

Thanks!

SurferRosa

The value in these might be with the skewers. Very unique.

The bearings look like cartridges that have lost their dustcaps. If so, those will be difficult to move.

SurferRosa

Those brakes usually don't have threads that deep in the bolt to simply cut it to size and use a recessed nut.

If you make it work ... .

cudak888 

Correct. I do have the thread tap (admittedly, I think I probably have more thread taps than I'll ever use...Whitworth too, just in case an XKE drops in from the sky), but I'm pretty sure these are rolled threads.

Plus, why waste a good nutted bolt? I know they sell these aftermarket now, but might as well throw one more into circulation. The recessed bolt folks have had their fun for 35 years, it's time to take back the territory

-Kurt

herbarium

I think you're right about that. I disassembled it to clean and then hastily tried to put it back together. Which way is it supposed to go?

jethin

I’ll put that looong bolt into use cudak888, thanks!

SurferRosa

Difficult to explain easily with text. I know there's a Suntour overhaul on youtube. That's a good place to start. The biggest difference will be the grub screw (aka, stop pin). These Shimano ones often aren't removable, so, upon reassembly, you begin threading the cage spring bolt but wind the spring before finally tightening down the bolt.

jethin

ISO

- Fork w approx 8” or more steerer, 700c wheels, 26.4 crown. For a beater, so not picky.

- Suntour barcon mounting pod — just the cylindrical expander part and screw.

HAVE: The cure for your C&V sickness???

Davidio

Good point - I'm in Eugene Oregon.

nlerner

A friend gifted me some forks recently; I’ll try to check if anything meets your specs.

oneclick 

Which cylindrical part - the screw with the conical head, or the three expanding sleeve sections (need both?)

3speedslow

Well RATS!

My new Cardiff that I got here on BF has broken a metal buckle. Looking for a short 6” brown leather strap to replace it.

Could go toe straps or try replacing the buckle but wanted to see if any here have one to trade for.

Thanks all!

valve_timing

Looking for cinelli 1e stem binder bolt it’s m7 1.0 thread maybe 40mm length

Adscheerens

I'm in search of a mid-eighties steel racing frame and fork. Something in the 59-61cm range with a light tube set. Open to anything, but primarily interested in Japanese tube sets and builders. I would also entertain the idea of a newer titanium frame. Thanks!

dweenk

Are there any good leather crafters in your area? That would be my first choice; but I think think the buckle is designed to fail due to the thin stress point.