Anyone using the TRP "Spyke" brake caliper??
#1
Very Slow Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: E Wa
Posts: 1,274
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 500 Post(s)
Liked 132 Times
in
101 Posts
Anyone using the TRP "Spyke" brake caliper??
Anyone with first-hand knowledge of these?
They come to me highly recommended. I see they're WAY cheaper than Paul Components Klamper calipers. Unlike the Klamper they 1. take tools to adjust and 2. actuate both pads
The brakes my bike came with are entry-level Tektros which are a nightmare to get adjusted correctly because the only way to move the outter pad is by loosening the entire caliper and sliding it left or right, then the inner one has a threaded adjuster. Stupid design IMO.
Thanks for your feedback. I am not totally opposed to going hydrolic either, I just don't know if the care and feeding of a hydro system is something I am in to right now. Thanks again
They come to me highly recommended. I see they're WAY cheaper than Paul Components Klamper calipers. Unlike the Klamper they 1. take tools to adjust and 2. actuate both pads
The brakes my bike came with are entry-level Tektros which are a nightmare to get adjusted correctly because the only way to move the outter pad is by loosening the entire caliper and sliding it left or right, then the inner one has a threaded adjuster. Stupid design IMO.
Thanks for your feedback. I am not totally opposed to going hydrolic either, I just don't know if the care and feeding of a hydro system is something I am in to right now. Thanks again
Likes For qclabrat:
#3
Senior Member
You could get cable / hydro calipers. The Juin Tech M1 is one example.
Likes For katsup:
Likes For qclabrat:
#5
Senior Member
I have the Juin Tech R1 (road version) on my Fog Cutter. They feel / stop better than the BB7 that were on my last bike. I've only been using them for about 600 miles, but they have given me no trouble. They don't stop as quickly as full hydro which I've had on mountain bikes.
Likes For katsup:
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 1,373
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 257 Post(s)
Liked 70 Times
in
63 Posts
I have the Juin Tech R1 (road version) on my Fog Cutter. They feel / stop better than the BB7 that were on my last bike. I've only been using them for about 600 miles, but they have given me no trouble. They don't stop as quickly as full hydro which I've had on mountain bikes.
#7
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
Anyone with first-hand knowledge of these?
They come to me highly recommended. I see they're WAY cheaper than Paul Components Klamper calipers. Unlike the Klamper they 1. take tools to adjust and 2. actuate both pads
The brakes my bike came with are entry-level Tektros which are a nightmare to get adjusted correctly because the only way to move the outter pad is by loosening the entire caliper and sliding it left or right, then the inner one has a threaded adjuster. Stupid design IMO.
Thanks for your feedback. I am not totally opposed to going hydrolic either, I just don't know if the care and feeding of a hydro system is something I am in to right now. Thanks again
They come to me highly recommended. I see they're WAY cheaper than Paul Components Klamper calipers. Unlike the Klamper they 1. take tools to adjust and 2. actuate both pads
The brakes my bike came with are entry-level Tektros which are a nightmare to get adjusted correctly because the only way to move the outter pad is by loosening the entire caliper and sliding it left or right, then the inner one has a threaded adjuster. Stupid design IMO.
Thanks for your feedback. I am not totally opposed to going hydrolic either, I just don't know if the care and feeding of a hydro system is something I am in to right now. Thanks again
I used BB7 mtb calipers for years and if you know how to keep them adjusted, they work great, in my experience. Yes, those Tektro calipers kinda suck. My Surly Wednesday came with Tektro calipers, and I replaced them with a set of old BB7s, and it was an improvement. The BB7s let you adjust both pads with knobs at the caliper.
If my XTs give me any more grief this coming season, I may have a set of Spykes in my future.
BTW, don't pay much attention to reviews in road versions of this or other mechanical brakes. MTB mechanicals work better than road mechanical, due to the cable pull ratio. I have bb7 road calipers on my gravel bike and they are not nearly as good as the bb7s on my mountain bikes.
Last edited by Kapusta; 04-05-20 at 07:51 PM.
#8
Very Slow Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: E Wa
Posts: 1,274
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 500 Post(s)
Liked 132 Times
in
101 Posts
don't pay much attention to reviews in road versions of this or other mechanical brakes. MTB mechanicals work better than road mechanical, due to the cable pull ratio. I have bb7 road calipers on my gravel bike and they are not nearly as good as the bb7s on my mountain bikes.
My levers on my bike have two cable pull settings; one of these days I'll try the longer one to see if that gives me a better lever feel. The bike came set up on the shorter pull setting so I assumed that was correct for the calipers. Right now I am able to bottom both levers out against the grips which I have heard is a no no, even if not, I don't like it.. Then again, stopping has not been a problem in even the steepest of trails where I needed to stop to see how to proceed......Thinking I'll change out the calipers about the same time the pads wear out and try to sell the old ones to defray the cost
#9
Senior Member
Interesting.
My levers on my bike have two cable pull settings; one of these days I'll try the longer one to see if that gives me a better lever feel. The bike came set up on the shorter pull setting so I assumed that was correct for the calipers. Right now I am able to bottom both levers out against the grips which I have heard is a no no, even if not, I don't like it.. Then again, stopping has not been a problem in even the steepest of trails where I needed to stop to see how to proceed......Thinking I'll change out the calipers about the same time the pads wear out and try to sell the old ones to defray the cost
My levers on my bike have two cable pull settings; one of these days I'll try the longer one to see if that gives me a better lever feel. The bike came set up on the shorter pull setting so I assumed that was correct for the calipers. Right now I am able to bottom both levers out against the grips which I have heard is a no no, even if not, I don't like it.. Then again, stopping has not been a problem in even the steepest of trails where I needed to stop to see how to proceed......Thinking I'll change out the calipers about the same time the pads wear out and try to sell the old ones to defray the cost
TRP Spyre = Road bike version, short pull
Avid used the same name (BB7) for mountain and road so it is more difficult to tell.
Bottoming out the levers is not the fault of the brakes, the cable needs to be tightened. Moving the cable to the long pull setting on your levers may be enough.
#10
Very Slow Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: E Wa
Posts: 1,274
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 500 Post(s)
Liked 132 Times
in
101 Posts
... Or the pads being too far from the disc because they're a b**** to adjust
#11
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2020
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Anyone with first-hand knowledge of these?
They come to me highly recommended. I see they're WAY cheaper than Paul Components Klamper calipers. Unlike the Klamper they 1. take tools to adjust and 2. actuate both pads
The brakes my bike came with are entry-level Tektros which are a nightmare to get adjusted correctly because the only way to move the outter pad is by loosening the entire caliper and sliding it left or right, then the inner one has a threaded adjuster. Stupid design IMO.
Thanks for your feedback. I am not totally opposed to going hydrolic either, I just don't know if the care and feeding of a hydro system is something I am in to right now. Thanks again
They come to me highly recommended. I see they're WAY cheaper than Paul Components Klamper calipers. Unlike the Klamper they 1. take tools to adjust and 2. actuate both pads
The brakes my bike came with are entry-level Tektros which are a nightmare to get adjusted correctly because the only way to move the outter pad is by loosening the entire caliper and sliding it left or right, then the inner one has a threaded adjuster. Stupid design IMO.
Thanks for your feedback. I am not totally opposed to going hydrolic either, I just don't know if the care and feeding of a hydro system is something I am in to right now. Thanks again
#12
Advanced Slacker
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 6,210
Bikes: Soma Fog Cutter, Surly Wednesday, Canfielld Tilt
Mentioned: 26 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2762 Post(s)
Liked 2,537 Times
in
1,433 Posts
#14
Very Slow Rider
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: E Wa
Posts: 1,274
Bikes: Jones Plus LWB, 1983 Centurion Japanese CrMo bike
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 500 Post(s)
Liked 132 Times
in
101 Posts
I CAN modulate my braking and lockup the rear pretty much at-will so kinda just choosing to ignore as well until I can get some calipers which are easier for me to work on. Had it in to my LBS a few times too. He swore at it too. Got the front pretty good which does the lion's share of the stopping anyway.
Thanks so much for your feedback by the way!