smashndash

It’s possible to slightly overheat the grooved graphene track. The sound goes from a pleasant whir to a shrill screech. The necessary force goes up slightly as well. But this is only on exceptionally technical descents. I’ve done the same with my alloy wheelset. No wet testing yet - don’t think it’s going to rain in CA for a while. I haven’t tested the non-grooved either but it’s supposedly only better in the dry and I don’t really expect much more dry power.

saverin

Just asking for clarity, and don't mean to insinuate anything regarding your skills with setting up your brakes, but are your brakes properly toe'd in?

smashndash

Fair enough. I don’t toe in my brake pads. I’ve found that pads naturally wear in the toe-in direction. Initially, yes they feel weird but they wear in fine. Also I felt like I lost power when I tried toeing-in in the past. I could see the screeching being fixed by the toe-in for sure, but I think it’s more of a result of the brake track heating up and the “slip” being more frequent.

Deceiver

I'm familiar with that noise from coming down GMR a month or so ago.

Rides4Beer

Yup, same here, but only on very hard braking efforts, like on a technical descent as mentioned. No loss in braking power, just some extra noise.

Leaa

These Light Bicycle wheels look great! Any downsides? Tnx!

jfranci3

For disc brakes? Just the delivery time.
For rim brakes? Above + the brake tracks can't take the same heat some brand name units can because they use fancier resins.

Rides4Beer

What makes you say this? I have yet to see a single report of any type of resin failure or braking issues with any LB rim brake rims.

noodle soup

He's thinking of the way things used to be 5 years ago.

jfranci3

Have offshore rims upped their resin game?


https://cyclingtips.com/2012/11/josh-poertner-zipp/

Current survey...
Looks like common carbon resin: 160c-200c
LB says they are using 280c stuff
Zipp uses 320c now (??)

Looks like the non-US, non-UK resins have improved a great deal. 240c was the 2012 standard, now we're at that for most rims on the market.

noodle soup

Have you built up these wheels yet?

Steve90068

I just received my R45 wheelset and the quality is great. However, to my surprise, they didn't come with rim strips. I think every wheel I've purchased over the years has always come with them so I've never actually purchased any before. The strips from my aluminum Boyd wheels appears too wide

Can someone point me in the right direction for the correct rim strips? The Inner/Outer is Width 17.9mm/25mm

Also, these will be setup with standard tubes, not tubeless but I'm reading that I should just use tubeless tape. is that correct?

Quiglesnbits

If you can measure the size of the spoke holes, then you will know for sure, but ideally the tape should cover as much of the flat bottom center section of the rim as it can. Something like 14-622 is more than likely pretty close to the right size for any road rim. You don't need to use tape specifically branded for tubeless, unless you think you might want to do that in the future. Something like Continental Easy Tape or Schwalbe Rim Tape would be fine.

WhyFi

My Reynold's are 1mm more narrow internally and require 21/22mm tape. I'd def go with tubeless tape - tolerances can be tight, so go with the thinner tape to minimize potential tire mounting headaches.

Ericoschmitt

My set of 56mm rim brakes have some 3000km now, been ridden in hills a lot, braking tracks look almost like new, just slightly "polished/brighter".

When the are very hot they can do squeak/whistle if you brake hard/long, but will work fine. The limiting factor is still not braking harder cuz I'd fly over the bars, so they brake better than I can actually use.

The brake pads are the ones that came with it, LB blue pads. No sign of wear, they just look a bit "dirty", darker blue where it touches the rim.

I use mtb rim tape by SunRingle (what lbs had) 21mm wide (I would have tried wider but lbs had 21mm only so whatever), with 25mm GP5k tubeless tire, zero sealant. Hard to fit but doable with plastic levers. They measure 29mm wide inflated.

Bitex hubs are going strong.


Thats it guys, just buy those babies, they are great. Fast light strong cheap and beautiful, plus crosswinds aren't a concern eventhough I'm light. I only use those now full time, the old Zipps are gone, climbing wheels are gone, 32spoke training wheels are gone. What else could I want?

Steve90068

Just got these mounted up. The front wheel isn't perfectly true which is annoying but otherwise everything looks great

TimothyH

Sorry I didn't see this.

They are at ProWheelBuilder as I type this. ETA is August 14.

No rush, really, as I believe I might have a stress fracture in my tibia. Waiting for radiology to read the x-rays and will no more in a day or two but it doesn't feel good. If so then I'll be reading books for a few weeks rather than cycling.


-Tim-

Marcus_Ti

Oooo. Ouchie. Sucky end to a cycling season.

Deceiver

May I ask what brakes you're running? Like the specific model?

TimothyH

Life goes on and I'll refocus.

People at Church have been asking me to start a new Bible study and I really should. God works in mysterious ways!

Fill me with joy and gladness;
let the bones which you have crushed rejoice.
- Psalm 51:8


-PAX-

August West

Nice. Were your wheels built in China or North America?

Ericoschmitt

Campagnolo skeleton non-series (the cheapest one), I bet any skeleton would work

Steve90068

china

Deceiver

Ahh yeah oops, you had told me that before.

noodle soup

Sorry to hear about the possible injury. Sometimes a little forced rest will make you come back a little more rested and focused.