phtomita

Hi,
I am looking for an e-bike for my wife so she can try out and use for her commute.
It is like 5 miles total (one way) with 300ft going and 100ft elevation coming back.
Since don't want to invested the bank, I was thinking on the Ancheer from Amazon (non-foldable one).
Does anyone ride this e-bike?
Is battery good enough for the 10 miles with above total elevation?
How is climbing with it? The route has a 6% climb for around 300ft.
Thank you

pierce

i built an ebike for my wife using a rear wheel motor kit, and a 48V 18AH battery, thats 860 watt*hours. its good for about 15-20 milesof brisk riding with mostly under 300W assist as long as you keep pedaling too, and will still climb the 300 foot 6-8% grade I live on in a relatively high gear at 10-15 MPH. the motor is rated at 1000W but I have it restricted to 750 and most of hte time its only peak 300-350 output because if you run more power for very long, it overheats.

the bike you're referencing has a 250W motor, and a 36V 8AH battery, thats 288 watt*hours... it would /probably/ do what you want. if she could bring the battery (and charger) into her workplace and charge it while shes working, that would raise it to for sure.

2old

Should be reviews of Ancheer bikes. Low price and performance to match. Should purchase at least 350w model IMO. Ten miles is well within range of Lithium battery. Important to maintain speed of 8 - 10 mph on 300', hill in order to ensure the motor doesn't get too hot.

Doc_Wui

I figure a 6%.grade for 300 feet is 15-20 feet in 100 yards. That used to faze us (me and my wife) on our local riding routes. Pretty easy now with our lower power ebikes.

phtomita

Thank you for the feedback.
One more question, the bike is a single size looking at Amazon. Does it fit ok a 5' tall person - in case you have the bike I am looking for.
From Amazon, I see a comment it fits someone 5.2'.

pierce

what counts more than height is inseam. and really, the only way to know for sure is to test ride it, unless you're quite experienced at a lot of different bikes, and can interpret the frame geometry tables from a major brand like Specialized (for example, I have a 32" inseam, but am 6' tall, and like a Specialized "L", which tend to have a long cockpit (seat to handlebars)).

last bike I mail ordered, I ended up doing a lot of tweaking of the stem and bars to get it where I wanted it. The bike was such a good deal, I could afford to play with a few different stems, that and a local bike shop lent me some used ones to try out.

I assume you're looking at this model?
https://www.amazon.com/ANCHEER-Elect.../dp/B07HJXY45D

that seat looks pretty low. my wife is 5'2 with rather short legs for her height, and this bike fits her to the T with the seat in the position shown...



she needs a 'step through' because her hips and knees won't let her throw a leg over the seat, so she has to step over (getting old sucks). she likes the very high bars on this bike style, and thats an unusual and rare no-longer-made Moxey suspension seatpost I found for her, the seat goes down and back when you hit bumps, keeping your leg extension relatively constant, and has absolutely no rotation unlike the usual inline bouncy-posts.

with that seat raised about 6", I can ride it just fine, too, and I'm 6'0.

2old

You might consider a step-through, but a one size fits all may be too big. If she has a bike that fits her well, a DIY kit (probably $500 - $600 might be a good choice. If DW answers, he'll be able to help immensely, but look at ebikeling as well as many others (Leeds, Hill Topper, ....)

01 CAt Man Do

@ the OP; If it were me I think I'd steer away from buying something like that on Amazon. That's because there is always the possibility that something might go wrong with the electrical system and then it might have to be fixed. Those bikes look like they are built with a bunch of cheap Chinese components. Remember the golden rule; "You get what you pay for". I think you'd be better finding a LBS that sells affordable ebikes and buying from them. Then if something goes wrong they should be able to service what they sell.

speedy25

An Ancheer? I guess hes looking for a divorce!

It really is a cheap piece-o-crap. They took the cheapest components to make a barely running e-bike. Wait until you need some service!!

Yes, I have serviced them and it takes MUCH longer to complete a task because of the cheap build.

Check out IZip's new line with the Suntour hub motors. Solid bike and a great bargain.

-SP

Stebo81

@phtomita I would check the amazon reviews at the bottom on the product page. If many people have purchased the bike then you may find some good honest reviews there.

- A 250 watt motor is not a great deal of power. However, if you pedal lightly it will get you up 6% climb without having to break into a sweat.

- I'm going to assume since she is around 5 feet she's also a light weight. The battery should be enough to last for a return trip with a little bit of pedal assist up the hills.
- The battery seems to be removable so you can charge it in the office.

Let's us know how you go with it.

pierce

my wife, at 5'2, is anything but light, so thats not a good assumption.

250W is about double the power a OK rider can sustain, so that means you have triple the power of just the rider.

phtomita

So, I found one on CL, still in box (open box) for less than half of the price (if you include tax).
Just picked up yesterday and still sitting inside the car - I rode my bike to work today so ....

Need to assembly it and will try to get some fenders since wet days are starting around here,
and probably need a rear rack.
If don't like, I can pass forward without much loss.

pierce

the hub motor kit I put on my wife's bike is NOT WATERPROOF. quality middrives usually are waterproof, but cost a fair bit more.

phtomita

Thank you for heads up. Probably my wife won't ride in the rain, but can't say about riding on wet pavement.

pierce

another factor with hub drives, they make fixing flats a real pain. the one I installed, there's 3 power wires and 5-6 control wires that run from the hub motor left axle to the control brick. there's no connector at the axle, I tiewrapped the 2 wire bundles to the rack stay and they plug in at the controller. a flat kit should probably contain wire cutters and enough tiewraps to redo things. oh, and a /big/ wrench, as the rear axle is NOT quick release, and the oversized axle nuts required a LOT of torque to secure them.

also, on my wife's Specialized/Globe 26" stepthrough, I had to grind the dropouts a fair bit deeper for the oversized axle to seat right. now, this might be a function of the specific kit I used, it has no torque arm, and is a 1000W hub motor (that I'm running at max 500W so it doesn't overheat).

2old

You might try the following (which is what I do on my rear hub system): Use velcro straps on wires that would need to be "loosened" in order to repair a flat; have enough cable so the repair can be effected without separating the wires; use a Schwalbe Marathon tire to minimize the chances for a flat (I haven't had one in four years).

pierce

my wife's Globe has some kinda Specialized Crossroads 26x1.75" sorta tire, she's never had a flat but I doubt its that flat resistant, she just doesn't ride much. Even tho they are a few years old, I re-mounted the rear on the hub drive wheel instead of the heavy generic chinese tire it came with.

my hybrid has Vittoria Randonneur Hypers, 700x32 120 threads/inch, sweet ride, kevlar anti-flat lining, i've never had a flat with them. they have 5 years on them now, so if when I ebike convert it, they get destroyed, I'm happy I got my moneys worth. With a motor I might see if I can fit 35 or 38s on that frame. hah! finding sturdy high TPI tires is tricky, I notice most of the Vittorias are low TPI again :-/

HerrKaLeun

There is a youtuber called thecrazyromanian or something like that. He reviewed an anchor like a year ago. He stated it isn't bad for the money.

Obviously long term battery wear and serviceabilty aren't known.

Doc_Wui

Most commercial hub motor ebikes, and many kit motors come with quick disconnect motor connectors, which helps a bit for fixing flat tires. I believe the Ancheer decided to save a dollar and doesn't have a quick disconnect. My flat kit, which is only for out-of-town includes a 17 mm wrench, and a linear tube. The latter allows me to change a flat w/o removing the wheel, although the old tube would have to be cut or pulled up around the frame til I got home.



Never had a flat on the rear tires since we started ebiking. No bushes with goats head thorns where we live. Plenty of potholes though. I've had pinch flats on the front tires.

The dropout slot on a standard bike is 10 mm wide, since bike axles are 10mm in diameter. Motor axles are 12mm, with two sides ground off to allow it to fit in a 10mm slot. That means the slot might need to be cut deeper by 1-2 mm. For a front fork, there might not be enough material to safely lengthen the slot.