What's Your Sweet Spot for Bicycle Pricing?
#1
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What's Your Sweet Spot for Bicycle Pricing?
By that I mean: what is the range or price-point that offers the best value for money, in your experience and for your riding style?
My riding typically consists of long road miles, commuting, and light trail riding/offroad endurance. I'm finding that my best experiences have been on bikes between USD $1,200 and $2,000 (when new).
There are some more expensive bikes out there that I'd like to try and see if they're worth the expense, if I can justify the cost to myself...
My riding typically consists of long road miles, commuting, and light trail riding/offroad endurance. I'm finding that my best experiences have been on bikes between USD $1,200 and $2,000 (when new).
There are some more expensive bikes out there that I'd like to try and see if they're worth the expense, if I can justify the cost to myself...
#2
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Going by the bike that I like the most and feel provided the best value, my ideal price point is 1500 GBP (1980 USD)
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You don't understand. The cost of the bike itself is only getting your foot in the door. You have to consider that there will be expenses on top of that. You also need time to get to know a bike and understand what you can get out of it, and what you need to do with it to adjust it to your needs.
#4
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You don't understand. The cost of the bike itself is only getting your foot in the door. You have to consider that there will be expenses on top of that. You also need time to get to know a bike and understand what you can get out of it, and what you need to do with it to adjust it to your needs.
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There's not really a sweet spot for price ... it depends on the bicycle.
In other words, if I want a bicycle that meets certain criteria, that's what I'll get.
Could be an attractive $50 tip shop bicycle ... or a $5000 tandem.
Rowan and I have, I think, 21 bicycles ... if I'm not mistaken. Several are in pieces (frames over here, parts over there) so it's kind of hard to count exactly.
And I have realised just recently that we haven't purchased a pair of new bicycles in a few years. Hmmmm .... might have to fix that problem soon.
In other words, if I want a bicycle that meets certain criteria, that's what I'll get.
Could be an attractive $50 tip shop bicycle ... or a $5000 tandem.
Rowan and I have, I think, 21 bicycles ... if I'm not mistaken. Several are in pieces (frames over here, parts over there) so it's kind of hard to count exactly.
And I have realised just recently that we haven't purchased a pair of new bicycles in a few years. Hmmmm .... might have to fix that problem soon.
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#6
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Rowan and I have, I think, 21 bicycles ... if I'm not mistaken. Several are in pieces (frames over here, parts over there) so it's kind of hard to count exactly.
And I have realised just recently that we haven't purchased a pair of new bicycles in a few years. Hmmmm .... might have to fix that problem soon.
And I have realised just recently that we haven't purchased a pair of new bicycles in a few years. Hmmmm .... might have to fix that problem soon.
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The price I paid for my custom ti bike was ideal to me.
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I've paid more and less but to me, it's $3k. You can get a great bike for that price if you're patient.
#9
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I thought I was still in the C&V forum and couldnt believe what I was reading. So....if you want to ride a classic handbuilt lugged steel frame with the best Campagnolo components of the day $300-500. I ride a full Campy NR Viking from the late 60's. Got it on ebay a few years ago. Only bidder at $350. Beautiful bike. For anyone on a budget or wants to ride a handbuilt masterpiece, with components that will last a lifetime (or maybe two), vintage is the way to go.
#10
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For me there is no really sweet spot have paid over 3000 thousand on one and others less then 400 used.of course for the 400 dollar one and a few in between that price. Point and I get joy out of all of them my next one is gonna be a f10 dogma not sure its going to be a sweet spot price wise but looks really good
#12
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It all depends on your financial situation, and how you feel about money. For a while I decided not to spend any money on a bike and rode bikes that I found on the metal pile. It's amazing what people throw away. I did this because of something like reverse snobbery. (See the clunker challenge thread on the C&V forum.) I have also spent considerably more on a bike.
If I was in Osaka, I would visit I's store, Grand Bois, and get a Randonneur from him. That would be the right price.
If I was in Osaka, I would visit I's store, Grand Bois, and get a Randonneur from him. That would be the right price.
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I understand the question you're asking but I'm not sure I can answer it. The "sweet spot" for a Colnago or DeRosa road bike is going to be different than the sweet spot for a Trek, at least for me. OTOH, I won't own a Trek or Specialized. But, that's another story.
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The more you pay, the more it's worth.
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My custom ti with Di2 can't objectionably be considered a sweet spot.
I would say a sweet spot would be the cost of a nice frame with 105 componentry, which would be about $1,500.00.
I would say a sweet spot would be the cost of a nice frame with 105 componentry, which would be about $1,500.00.
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#16
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Depends on the bike. Anywhere frm $100-$10000.
#17
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Not just in biking but many things I learned the hard-way it's better to pay extra for the better stuff than try to save a few bucks and getting what you paid for. So even though I am not the hardcore biker my sweet spot I try to keep it under 2k or get a 2k and pay the extra in taxes and stuff.
#18
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From my periodic visits to LBS I've noticed that you can get a really nice aluminum frame bike with a carbon fork for around $650 from some generic sounding Taiwan manufacturer. That would probably be all that most average riders would ever need. Not for me. I paid $175 for my current favorite bike. A 1987 Centurion Ironman. But, I put about $400 worth of new wheels, brifters, & drivetrain parts on it. So, let's say $575 for me.
#19
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That said I think the sweet spot for me personally for a hybrid is in the $800ish range, and for a road bike, $2k-$2400ish.
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What model is it? Mine is a World Cup CX that I bought for $1500. Not the iconic "made in Italy" bike but I love the thing.
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If I had to replace one of my bikes, production prices for something similar seem to be around $1,200-$1,500, as you note. Then I would add my favorite B-17 ($120), fenders, might replace a saddle bag, might get a new pump -- call it another $300 on top of the production bike price. Since I use 2/3 of my bikes for commuting, I'd move the dyno wheel over unless some nice cager's insurance was paying, in which case that's another $500. Full up price, $2,000-3,000.
If you're going to spend more than that, you should be able to verbalize why it costs more (and why you're willing to pay more). Good reasons might include: custom fit/build, S&S coupler system for a travel bike, really want electronic shifting, want a different wheel/tire size (although production gravel bikes are filling that gap), etc.
If you're going to spend more than that, you should be able to verbalize why it costs more (and why you're willing to pay more). Good reasons might include: custom fit/build, S&S coupler system for a travel bike, really want electronic shifting, want a different wheel/tire size (although production gravel bikes are filling that gap), etc.
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What's Your Sweet Spot for Bicycle Pricing?
I have posted previously to this thread,To buy or not to buy, that's the question,"
By that I mean: what is the range or price-point that offers the best value for money, in your experience and for your riding style?
My riding typically consists of long road miles, commuting, and light trail riding/offroad endurance. I'm finding that my best experiences have been on bikes between USD $1,200 and $2,000 (when new).
There are some more expensive bikes out there that I'd like to try and see if they're worth the expense, if I can justify the cost to myself...
My riding typically consists of long road miles, commuting, and light trail riding/offroad endurance. I'm finding that my best experiences have been on bikes between USD $1,200 and $2,000 (when new).
There are some more expensive bikes out there that I'd like to try and see if they're worth the expense, if I can justify the cost to myself...
I have posted,I hate to shop, but I much prefer to buy something important for myself rather than by someone else. Furthermore if I really needed/wanted it I would not expect my yearning to disappear.
My shopping strategy for something important is to look at the high end (expensive) models first, just to know what’s available and then whittle downwards to find what’s acceptable, the so-called sweet spot of price/value.
I’ve participated in several popcorn threads on BF about the value of “expensive” bikes (I have one), and my last word is "At least I have no buyer's remorse about what I may be missing." .
My shopping strategy for something important is to look at the high end (expensive) models first, just to know what’s available and then whittle downwards to find what’s acceptable, the so-called sweet spot of price/value.
I’ve participated in several popcorn threads on BF about the value of “expensive” bikes (I have one), and my last word is "At least I have no buyer's remorse about what I may be missing." .
Whenever I’m asked about buying a bike my questions are what do you want it for, and how much to spend? IMO bikes of similar quality by brand names stratify in groups of about approximately $US 200 intervals [up about $1500-2000, then the price interval spreads widen.]
#23
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My limit is whatever an entry level road bike is currently selling for at the LBS. I’ve owned hundreds of bikes, including several of the desirable Italian names. I only crossed that self imposed limit once, for my pristine 1974 Schwinn Paramount. Otherwise my spending per bike is well under this limit.
i only buy used, lugged steel only, and most of my bikes are from the 1980s. Some have newer drive trains, some don’t.
While i I could spend more on a bike I choose not to do it.
i only buy used, lugged steel only, and most of my bikes are from the 1980s. Some have newer drive trains, some don’t.
While i I could spend more on a bike I choose not to do it.
#24
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