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Old 03-07-24, 07:58 PM
  #51  
Atlas Shrugged
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Originally Posted by smd4
Yes. I was clearly giving investment advice. S&P. Please.

Nice straw man.

Besides, using an inflation calculator and your example shows that a new RD-7700 at $100 in 1996 should be only $199 today.

Clearly NOS RD-7700s have beaten inflation.
To bring you back up to speed. I responded to a post where the idea was floated to set aside a few rim brake groups for 5-10 years then resell them for 100 to 150 percent markup, which you liked. I responded to the poster pointing out that I believed bicycle gear is and forecasted to be a terrible investment. The demand for outdated equipment is only going to deteriorate as supply is high and purchasers are declining.

You were the one who jumped in and used a very niche product as an example of where it could have been a good investment.

If you considering keeping up with inflation a good investment then your threshold is much lower than mine. To me, bikes are to be ridden and then upgraded when appropriate. The payback is in the enjoyment of riding the bike, not polishing it, looking at it or eventually reselling it.
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Old 03-07-24, 08:13 PM
  #52  
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I’m thinking of going long on April wheat. Any thoughts?
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Old 03-07-24, 08:16 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Atlas Shrugged
To bring you back up to speed…

If you considering keeping up with inflation a good investment then your threshold is much lower than mine. To me, bikes are to be ridden and then upgraded when appropriate. The payback is in the enjoyment of riding the bike, not polishing it, looking at it or eventually reselling it.
To bring you back to reality…I never said bikes or parts should be considered investments. Quote me if I did.

However, if one invests in something that beats the rate of inflation, that investment would be considered sound. What you purchased is worth more in real dollars down the line than what you bought it for.

Your modern bikes and parts may very well depreciate. We’ll see. Their future prices may not keep up with inflation, in which case they will be worth less in real money than you paid for them. Again, we’ll see.

I, too, get the payback, as you say, of enjoying my bike. I’m not planning on selling my bike anytime soon, but if I do, I know it’s kept much of its value. If you’re planning on selling your bikes in the future, I hope they have kept theirs.
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Old 03-08-24, 02:15 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
I’m thinking of going long on April wheat. Any thoughts?
...I think you're good as long as you go with one of the modern wheat hybrids. Don't be foolish and invest in something like Einkorn wheat.
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Old 03-08-24, 04:53 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by smd4
Again, condition is important. Sure, trashed 7700 RDs go for cheap. NOS versions are going for $250 or more. A medium cage sold for $445. Doesn’t sound like prices are “dropping precipitously” to me.
Anything mint regarding Dura Ace 7700/7800 has skyrocketed in price, Dura Ace 7700/7800 is now very expensive but more qualitative than Shimano Dura Ace of today. Just the case of the bonded cranksets that have been broken is a reminder that what is new isn't always of good quality.

Last edited by georges1; 03-08-24 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 03-08-24, 04:58 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by Atlas Shrugged
To bring you back up to speed. I responded to a post where the idea was floated to set aside a few rim brake groups for 5-10 years then resell them for 100 to 150 percent markup, which you liked. I responded to the poster pointing out that I believed bicycle gear is and forecasted to be a terrible investment. The demand for outdated equipment is only going to deteriorate as supply is high and purchasers are declining.

You were the one who jumped in and used a very niche product as an example of where it could have been a good investment.

If you considering keeping up with inflation a good investment then your threshold is much lower than mine. To me, bikes are to be ridden and then upgraded when appropriate. The payback is in the enjoyment of riding the bike, not polishing it, looking at it or eventually reselling it.
The enjoyment is riding the bike with reliable componentry that doesn't break or that has a manufacturing flaw , Dura Ace 7700/7800 didn't have the cable eating shifting issues unlike Dura Ace 7900/9000/9100/9200 and crank issues like the Dura Ace 9000/9100/9200.
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Old 03-08-24, 06:10 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by ScottCommutes
Keeping up with new tech is part of life, whether you like it or not. Don't believe me, I'll sell you my VGA cables, typewriter ribbons, handsaw sharpening jig, and lantern batteries fuel.
Fixed.
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Old 03-08-24, 06:14 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by smd4
When I make a post, I'll do it my way. Your original post is still there for all to see.
What, are you Frank Sinatra?
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Old 03-09-24, 04:31 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by georges1
The enjoyment is riding the bike with reliable componentry that doesn't break or that has a manufacturing flaw , Dura Ace 7700/7800 didn't have the cable eating shifting issues unlike Dura Ace 7900/9000/9100/9200 and crank issues like the Dura Ace 9000/9100/9200.
9200 doesn’t have either of those issues.
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Old 03-09-24, 04:44 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by PeteHski
9200 doesn’t have either of those issues.
Maybe they realized to go back to forged cranks but regarding cable shifting issues they exist
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Old 03-09-24, 04:54 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by georges1
Maybe they realized to go back to forged cranks but regarding cable shifting issues they exist
They don’t even have cables on 9200 and the cranks are still bonded. They just fixed the issue that affected a small percentage of the previous generation.
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Old 03-09-24, 06:45 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by PeteHski
They don’t even have cables on 9200 and the cranks are still bonded. They just fixed the issue that affected a small percentage of the previous generation.
Interesting info regrading the cranks thanks for sharing.
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Old 03-09-24, 08:27 AM
  #63  
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I like both forms of braking...mechanical and hydraulic...both have pluses and minuses.
My current road/Aethos and gravel/Diverge have hydro brakes and they work great.
Recently I was working on my 1905 Ford and have to replace the knaniffla pin...sigh trying to find a new one is difficult...don't know why they stopped making them as they did the job and didn't cost much...found one on fleabay but the seller wanted both my arms so I'm stuck...
Yep just being an a*ss but it's fun and I'm old and don't care...
I've had mechanical disk brakes and every brand/model is different. Some work well while others don't. I had the TRP carbon on my Aethos and while they performed just fine I could feel the friction and wanted 'better' so when I moved to electronic shifting I went with hydraulic and prefer it.
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Old 03-14-24, 03:53 PM
  #64  
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I agree with you that hydraulic discs of rim brakes are going a little to far, and while they may feel nice, the complication is not worth it.
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Old 03-15-24, 10:22 AM
  #65  
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Maybe my gripe gave wrong impression, I'm not necessarily anti disc brake, I'm anti no choice. I only found one bike frame within my budget and what I wanted that offered in both disc and rim brake option. Yeah my frame, is not rim brake frame, it's offered in both and that's great for whoever has the tools and knowledge and ability to service and maintain. And I also found the new groupsets are very limiting if you want to keep your bike mechanical.

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Old 03-15-24, 11:03 AM
  #66  
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There are very few new tools needed for hydraulic disc brakes, other than a bleed kit for your brand of brakes. Centerloc rotor lock rings use one of two types of Shimano tools that have been around for decades to either secure cassettes or BBs. I switched to SRAM electronic in 2020, first with two rim brake frames, the with two disc brake frames, but using the same shifters with cable operated hydraulic calipers from Juin-tech. Eventually I switched to hydraulic brakes with new shifters. I've built up two Yoeleo R12 disc frames with integrated bars, too. I haven't found it very difficult.

The biggest improvement comes from using wider rims and wider tubeless tires that produce a greatly improved ride. With 28/30mm tires, I use no more than 55 psi tire pressure. I don't miss my rim brake bikes a bit.
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Old 03-15-24, 11:17 AM
  #67  
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Maybe should ask why you need 30mm tubeless wider rims for more comfy ride on your hydraulic disc bike. Just saying, look into it. I'd be amazed if a 23mm rim brake steel isn't more comfy, or if say otherwise, just coping.
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Old 03-15-24, 03:59 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by zymphad
Maybe should ask why you need 30mm tubeless wider rims for more comfy ride on your hydraulic disc bike. Just saying, look into it. I'd be amazed if a 23mm rim brake steel isn't more comfy, or if say otherwise, just coping.
No sorry 23c tires are not comfortable and having rim brakes doesn't necessarily make a more comfortable bike (though disc brakes do require a stiffer fork). Wider tires at a lower pressure are going to be more comfortable generally. I love steel and titanium frame and have no interest in having aluminum or carbon frames personally but in the end I think wider tires would probably be a better maker of comfort then frame material up to a point. Certainly in vintage skinny tire department frame material will make a bigger difference but with wider tires I think it does take a little bit of that away. Not totally but enough.

For instance my 25c tire bike is less comfortable than my bikes running 28c tires with a similar position. The 3mm helps a little
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Old 03-15-24, 04:05 PM
  #69  
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My recently acquired 2015 Shiv may be the newest bike I ever own for similar reasons to the OP. Of course, I'm solidly in my mid 50s now so buying a brand new wizz-bang, high dollar, all option bike is kind of a waste on me anyway. I figure if I'm still riding in 10 years, it will probably be some fat tire beach cruiser.
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Old 03-15-24, 06:01 PM
  #70  
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It is a real shame. Gone are the days when you could carry out EVERY repair/maintenance job yourself.

If you want an electronic rim brake groupset, there's always good old Campagnolo (Chorus, Record or Super Record).
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Old 03-15-24, 06:52 PM
  #71  
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it would be nice if the caliper had a better design that didnt use the cheap spring steel retention part.
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Old 03-18-24, 08:45 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
No sorry 23c tires are not comfortable
For you.

Mine are plenty comfortable.
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Old 03-18-24, 10:40 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by smd4
For you.

Mine are plenty comfortable.
But compared to a 28c tire? If you could have the same bike with wider tires (and clearance for them) I cannot imagine you would say 23c is the more comfortable.

I know there are a bunch of holdouts but the science has moved on.
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Old 03-18-24, 10:57 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by veganbikes
But compared to a 28c tire? If you could have the same bike with wider tires (and clearance for them) I cannot imagine you would say 23c is the more comfortable.

I know there are a bunch of holdouts but the science has moved on.
I'm glad that science can tell me what feels comfortable to me and what doesn't.
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Old 03-18-24, 11:00 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by zymphad
Maybe should ask why you need 30mm tubeless wider rims for more comfy ride on your hydraulic disc bike. Just saying, look into it. I'd be amazed if a 23mm rim brake steel isn't more comfy, or if say otherwise, just coping.
Have you ridden both (1) a rim brake bike with 23mm tires and (2) a disc brake bike with 30mm tubeless tires? Honest question.

Originally Posted by zactaylor
It is a real shame. Gone are the days when you could carry out EVERY repair/maintenance job yourself.
Those days are not gone.
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