Campagnolo wheels capable of withstand a 205# clyde - do they exist? recommendations?
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Campagnolo wheels capable of withstand a 205# clyde - do they exist? recommendations?
Campagnolo-hubbed wheels capable to withstand a 205# clyde - do they exist? Does anyone have recommendations?
Down the road, I'd like to look at carbon, but alu is also fine.
Light for climbing is another option.
Well I finally hit a pothole (during a group ride - so reduced visibility -- it was a last second thing) and buckled a 10-year old DT Swiss 1.1 rim.
The wheel is being replaced at the LBS with what exactIy don't know, but nothing quite as light and sweet as I had there.
Any Campagnolo or Campagnolo-compatible wheel recommendations being used happily by you Clydes out there, and surviving potholes.
Campy, Light, Durable and Not Too Expensive and — that sentence is not even possible, LOL, but 3 of 4 would be good.
I fear the sound of crickets...yes, it's my fault, what was I thinking? But Campy Clydes, please weigh in ...
Down the road, I'd like to look at carbon, but alu is also fine.
Light for climbing is another option.
Well I finally hit a pothole (during a group ride - so reduced visibility -- it was a last second thing) and buckled a 10-year old DT Swiss 1.1 rim.
The wheel is being replaced at the LBS with what exactIy don't know, but nothing quite as light and sweet as I had there.
Any Campagnolo or Campagnolo-compatible wheel recommendations being used happily by you Clydes out there, and surviving potholes.
Campy, Light, Durable and Not Too Expensive and — that sentence is not even possible, LOL, but 3 of 4 would be good.
I fear the sound of crickets...yes, it's my fault, what was I thinking? But Campy Clydes, please weigh in ...
#2
SuperGimp
I don't think you'll have any issues at all. I'm usually at about 220 and have never had wheels issues (at least not since I got rid of my late-nineties vintage mavic open pro wheels... those POS!) and I even have a few pairs of wheels that I would consider dramatically under-spoked (16 in the front, 20 in the rear? Are you kidding?)
You have a lot of oxymorons in your requirements... campy / not too expensive, light / durable...
go to wheelbuilder.com or prowheelbuilder.com and see what you can design. You can get DT Swiss hubs with campy freehubs, so no issue there.
Maybe it's time to get those zipps you've coveted for the last 10 years...
You have a lot of oxymorons in your requirements... campy / not too expensive, light / durable...
go to wheelbuilder.com or prowheelbuilder.com and see what you can design. You can get DT Swiss hubs with campy freehubs, so no issue there.
Maybe it's time to get those zipps you've coveted for the last 10 years...
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Why not just get new rims for your existing Campy wheels? I crashed my Dura Ace 7700/DT Swiss RR1.1 wheels last year putting the DT Swiss RR 1.1’s out of the conversation. I had 36 front / 36 rear on the 7700’s for my Clyde self. For the rebuild I went with Velocity A23’S (polished) in 36 rear, 32 front. I had a back up 7700 hub (used from eBay), 32 hole that we used for the front. I asked for the o/c rear rim (off center for more strength, less dish rear) but they were out of stock at the time. The symmetrical A23 rear rim seems fine so far. My LBS wheelbuilder that I respect so much said we had enough spokes to utilize the lightweight DT spokes despite my #205 weight.
Long story short - the rebuild of my old favorite wheels went really well. I did have to take advantage of the follow up truing that comes with any custom wheel build, in my case the rear spokes loosened slightly and there was a slight wobble after the first 400 miles. No worries - my mechanic tensioned and trued it in about 10 extra minutes and the wheels have been great ever since. The A23’s are slightly wider so 700x25 tires are right at home on these rims. I’m running latex tubes for the first time this year and have even experimented with lowering the pressures to ~88 psi front, ~90-95 psi rear with noticeable increase in comfort over chip seal and road expansion cracks. It might be psychological but I could swear that the Michelin Power (All Season rear, Endurance front) just seem to have more grip with the lower pressure and latex tubes.
Can you tell us what your current Campy hubs are? What is the drilling? Do they use J-bend or straight spokes?
Long story short - the rebuild of my old favorite wheels went really well. I did have to take advantage of the follow up truing that comes with any custom wheel build, in my case the rear spokes loosened slightly and there was a slight wobble after the first 400 miles. No worries - my mechanic tensioned and trued it in about 10 extra minutes and the wheels have been great ever since. The A23’s are slightly wider so 700x25 tires are right at home on these rims. I’m running latex tubes for the first time this year and have even experimented with lowering the pressures to ~88 psi front, ~90-95 psi rear with noticeable increase in comfort over chip seal and road expansion cracks. It might be psychological but I could swear that the Michelin Power (All Season rear, Endurance front) just seem to have more grip with the lower pressure and latex tubes.
Can you tell us what your current Campy hubs are? What is the drilling? Do they use J-bend or straight spokes?
Last edited by masi61; 07-17-18 at 10:31 AM.
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these would work 32 open pro on miche (underated) hubs
$400
Mavic Open Pro Miche Campagnolo hubs 32h 9 10 11 speed wheelset [7744 miche racing box open pro] - $399.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
$400
Mavic Open Pro Miche Campagnolo hubs 32h 9 10 11 speed wheelset [7744 miche racing box open pro] - $399.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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I have a set of Campy Khamsins and Sciroccos that I have been using when I weighed about 235. I still ride those bikes but not too much this year. Since you don't state what inexpensive is, or what weight is light, they fit one of your criteria, Campy.
#6
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I am on my third set of rims for my 2001 32H Record Campy hubs. 18 years, 50K+ miles.
Clyde, at anywhere from 205 to 265 over the years.
Mavic Open Pros for first set, Campy Montreal for second set, most recent set is Velocity A23s
Of the three sets, MOPs were the lightest and did not hold up well, but the A23s seem to be the best ride and stiffest set of rims.
Clyde, at anywhere from 205 to 265 over the years.
Mavic Open Pros for first set, Campy Montreal for second set, most recent set is Velocity A23s
Of the three sets, MOPs were the lightest and did not hold up well, but the A23s seem to be the best ride and stiffest set of rims.
#7
Full Member
Campagnolo-hubbed wheels capable to withstand a 205# clyde - do they exist? Does anyone have recommendations?
Down the road, I'd like to look at carbon, but alu is also fine.
Light for climbing is another option.
Well I finally hit a pothole (during a group ride - so reduced visibility -- it was a last second thing) and buckled a 10-year old DT Swiss 1.1 rim.
The wheel is being replaced at the LBS with what exactIy don't know, but nothing quite as light and sweet as I had there.
Any Campagnolo or Campagnolo-compatible wheel recommendations being used happily by you Clydes out there, and surviving potholes.
Campy, Light, Durable and Not Too Expensive and — that sentence is not even possible, LOL, but 3 of 4 would be good.
I fear the sound of crickets...yes, it's my fault, what was I thinking? But Campy Clydes, please weigh in ...
Down the road, I'd like to look at carbon, but alu is also fine.
Light for climbing is another option.
Well I finally hit a pothole (during a group ride - so reduced visibility -- it was a last second thing) and buckled a 10-year old DT Swiss 1.1 rim.
The wheel is being replaced at the LBS with what exactIy don't know, but nothing quite as light and sweet as I had there.
Any Campagnolo or Campagnolo-compatible wheel recommendations being used happily by you Clydes out there, and surviving potholes.
Campy, Light, Durable and Not Too Expensive and — that sentence is not even possible, LOL, but 3 of 4 would be good.
I fear the sound of crickets...yes, it's my fault, what was I thinking? But Campy Clydes, please weigh in ...
Zonda is probably the best value in terms of lightness and durability for your money, for general use, in the range.
It's a C17 rim so min tyre size is 25c, 28s might be wiser if your frame / brakes will accommodate.
No wheel is going to be super-happy hitting a pothole. A set of handbuilts with more spokes, closer spaced and at slightly lower tensions than are typically used in low spoke-count wheels are the way forwards if you are going to insist on hitting bomb-holes in the road but any wheel will succumb if you hit a big enough hole on the road with enough force ...
#8
SuperGimp
I honestly don't believe there are still people out there promoting mavic open pro rims... they're 'orrible. Mine were 32 spoke on ultegra rims btw.
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Had a set of Velocity that started showing stress cracks after 500 miles, but they did not have spoke eyelts
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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Modern Campy hubs have 32 holes max. I like strong wheels and am a bit old fashioned when it comes to spoke count, so I build my own rear wheels with Miche or White 36 hole rear hubs, 36 hole older Campy front hubs, and mostly Velocity rims. Those are pretty much bulletproof!
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All Campag wheels are designed for and covered under warranty up to, a rider & load combined weight of 240 lbs.
Zonda is probably the best value in terms of lightness and durability for your money, for general use, in the range.
It's a C17 rim so min tyre size is 25c, 28s might be wiser if your frame / brakes will accommodate.
No wheel is going to be super-happy hitting a pothole. A set of handbuilts with more spokes, closer spaced and at slightly lower tensions than are typically used in low spoke-count wheels are the way forwards if you are going to insist on hitting bomb-holes in the road but any wheel will succumb if you hit a big enough hole on the road with enough force ...
Zonda is probably the best value in terms of lightness and durability for your money, for general use, in the range.
It's a C17 rim so min tyre size is 25c, 28s might be wiser if your frame / brakes will accommodate.
No wheel is going to be super-happy hitting a pothole. A set of handbuilts with more spokes, closer spaced and at slightly lower tensions than are typically used in low spoke-count wheels are the way forwards if you are going to insist on hitting bomb-holes in the road but any wheel will succumb if you hit a big enough hole on the road with enough force ...
The rim I just wrecked was a 32 spoke handbuilt DT SwissR1.1
It did good service for 11 years
As you say -- any wheel will succumb eventually to real bad hits
The nasty pothole caught me by surprise in a group ride -- I can't expect miracles.
I am using a new no-frills wheel -- maybe heavier, but it is holding up well so far.
One of these days I'll get something fancy, maybe.
In the meantime, I will learn my lesson and pay more attention to the rider in front; which is always a good idea, no matter the distraction.
LNSOL -- laughing not-so-out loud ;-) .
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I probably have to look harder next time to find Open Pro in Campy hub.
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Unfortunately, my concept of expensive is a moving target these days.
But I am glad to hear about Campy wheels holding up under us big guys, as they certainly do not seem to have many spokes in general terms compared with the usual 28/32 Rx for Clydes.
I wound up with a no-frills Origin8 wheel to tide me over -- purchased via the LBS.
A fancier wheelset will have to wait for another day or another bike n+1.
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Modern Campy hubs have 32 holes max. I like strong wheels and am a bit old fashioned when it comes to spoke count, so I build my own rear wheels with Miche or White 36 hole rear hubs, 36 hole older Campy front hubs, and mostly Velocity rims. Those are pretty much bulletproof!
Which was your favorite book on the subject?
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Why not just get new rims for your existing Campy wheels? I crashed my Dura Ace 7700/DT Swiss RR1.1 wheels last year putting the DT Swiss RR 1.1’s out of the conversation. I had 36 front / 36 rear on the 7700’s for my Clyde self. For the rebuild I went with Velocity A23’S (polished) in 36 rear, 32 front. I had a back up 7700 hub (used from eBay), 32 hole that we used for the front. I asked for the o/c rear rim (off center for more strength, less dish rear) but they were out of stock at the time. The symmetrical A23 rear rim seems fine so far. My LBS wheelbuilder that I respect so much said we had enough spokes to utilize the lightweight DT spokes despite my #205 weight.
Long story short - the rebuild of my old favorite wheels went really well. I did have to take advantage of the follow up truing that comes with any custom wheel build, in my case the rear spokes loosened slightly and there was a slight wobble after the first 400 miles. No worries - my mechanic tensioned and trued it in about 10 extra minutes and the wheels have been great ever since. The A23’s are slightly wider so 700x25 tires are right at home on these rims. I’m running latex tubes for the first time this year and have even experimented with lowering the pressures to ~88 psi front, ~90-95 psi rear with noticeable increase in comfort over chip seal and road expansion cracks. It might be psychological but I could swear that the Michelin Power (All Season rear, Endurance front) just seem to have more grip with the lower pressure and latex tubes.
Can you tell us what your current Campy hubs are? What is the drilling? Do they use J-bend or straight spokes?
Long story short - the rebuild of my old favorite wheels went really well. I did have to take advantage of the follow up truing that comes with any custom wheel build, in my case the rear spokes loosened slightly and there was a slight wobble after the first 400 miles. No worries - my mechanic tensioned and trued it in about 10 extra minutes and the wheels have been great ever since. The A23’s are slightly wider so 700x25 tires are right at home on these rims. I’m running latex tubes for the first time this year and have even experimented with lowering the pressures to ~88 psi front, ~90-95 psi rear with noticeable increase in comfort over chip seal and road expansion cracks. It might be psychological but I could swear that the Michelin Power (All Season rear, Endurance front) just seem to have more grip with the lower pressure and latex tubes.
Can you tell us what your current Campy hubs are? What is the drilling? Do they use J-bend or straight spokes?
Not sure what the spoke straightness/bend is. On of these days when I have a life....
They were built up by Mike Garcia -- but I don't think he's in business anymore.
I am seeing good things on the A23s the more I look at this thread, it seems.
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I don't think you'll have any issues at all. I'm usually at about 220 and have never had wheels issues (at least not since I got rid of my late-nineties vintage mavic open pro wheels... those POS!) and I even have a few pairs of wheels that I would consider dramatically under-spoked (16 in the front, 20 in the rear? Are you kidding?)
You have a lot of oxymorons in your requirements... campy / not too expensive, light / durable...
go to wheelbuilder.com or prowheelbuilder.com and see what you can design. You can get DT Swiss hubs with campy freehubs, so no issue there.
Maybe it's time to get those zipps you've coveted for the last 10 years...
You have a lot of oxymorons in your requirements... campy / not too expensive, light / durable...
go to wheelbuilder.com or prowheelbuilder.com and see what you can design. You can get DT Swiss hubs with campy freehubs, so no issue there.
Maybe it's time to get those zipps you've coveted for the last 10 years...
LBS hooked me up with a no-frills Origin8. Embarassing to some maybe; but it seems sturdy enough so far and came at a fair price installed within a vey busy week to get back riding ASAP.
But it has already held up to yet another pothole hit.
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