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The Zip Tie Bike - Trek 990

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Old 08-27-19, 08:41 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Darth Lefty
We often tell people this, but in this instance it was a pretty cool bike to begin with. It's like finding a Porsche when you're looking for a VW.

A 1989 would have been cooler for the C&V nerds, it had all the best late-stage Suntour parts. And it was no longer the top bike, Trek started bonded aluminum in 87 and bonded CF in 1990 (says MOMBAT). But this is the one you'd choose to keep running and riding forever.
I keep enjoying my 2000 or so Hardrock classic after all these years. I've upgraded some things like the saddle and made it an 8 speed so it's not original but I can't see replacing it.
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Old 08-27-19, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by no motor?
I keep enjoying my 2000 or so Hardrock classic after all these years. I've upgraded some things like the saddle and made it an 8 speed so it's not original but I can't see replacing it.
No offense or anything, but a Hardrock has a lot more upgrade room than a stock Trek 990

The 990 in question could use a couple of parts, but I'd likely source original parts off eBay or such.
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Old 08-27-19, 09:09 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by LesterOfPuppets
No offense or anything, but a Hardrock has a lot more upgrade room than a stock Trek 990

The 990 in question could use a couple of parts, but I'd likely source original parts off eBay or such.
There aren't many original parts on it any more. The crappy griff shifters got replaced with trigger shifters, cartridge bearings replaced the cup and cone bearings in the bottom bracket, the steering head has cartridge bearings now etc... Only the frame, forces, and front derailer and brake arms are original anymore.
And while I respect your opinion, I don't see the value in keeping the period correct grip shifters and cantlilever brakes on a bike that's going to be ridden regularly, especially if it's going to be pulling a trailer. What's the benefit to using parts that make it harder to shift and stop there?

Last edited by no motor?; 08-28-19 at 06:57 AM.
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Old 09-02-19, 06:30 PM
  #54  
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2 rides and a 5K run



Got in some riding and running today. Stopped off at Spring Lakes in Greene County, Ohio. Obligatory bike picture
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Old 09-02-19, 07:00 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by no motor?
There aren't many original parts on it any more. The crappy griff shifters got replaced with trigger shifters, cartridge bearings replaced the cup and cone bearings in the bottom bracket, the steering head has cartridge bearings now etc... Only the frame, forces, and front derailer and brake arms are original anymore.
And while I respect your opinion, I don't see the value in keeping the period correct grip shifters and cantlilever brakes on a bike that's going to be ridden regularly, especially if it's going to be pulling a trailer. What's the benefit to using parts that make it harder to shift and stop there?
I don't think I suggested period-correct Grip Shifts. Gripshifts didn't really get good until 8-sp. The gripshifts on there are some godawful 7-speeds that were released sometime in the aughts. If staying with Gripshifts, only do it if you're wanting to get the whole drivetrain 8-sp. There's currently a 9-sp RD on there, so I'd probably go 9-sp.

I'd definitely not go with the original spec shifters either. That bike originally came with the really bad push-push Rapidfires that predate the much better Rapidfire+. I prefer to avoid these like the plague.

I only see V-brakes as a minor upgrade. Cantis are tough to setup but when setup they work nicely. If an actual braking upgrade is needed I'd get a fork with disc mounts and really upgrade. A V-brake upgrade would require Brake Lever replacement anyways, so might as well go mech disc up front. Avid BB5 or even BB7 would work well.
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