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Chinabomb Disc Brake Road Bike Build

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Chinabomb Disc Brake Road Bike Build

Old 01-04-17, 03:27 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
Honestly, I plan to change that soon. It is despicable, really.
Until I saw this I was going to post: "No pics STILL? This guy is probably just a troll."

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Old 01-10-17, 11:29 AM
  #52  
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Teaser pics:

DSC_8581 by joe jackson, on Flickr

DSC_8582 by joe jackson, on Flickr

DSC_8584 by joe jackson, on Flickr

DSC_8586 by joe jackson, on Flickr
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Old 01-10-17, 11:36 AM
  #53  
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The rear end pics still have the Shimano AX76 lever-style thru axle installed. My Ibis Hexle arrives in a few days so I'll have a flush-style axle at both ends, assuming it matches the specs online.

A revision to my earlier posting is in regards to the Chorus crankset. The Campy 'Ultra Torque' OS-Fit cups for BB30 do NOT require Seeger rings. That note was in a tech document for 'Over Torque' BBs and Chorus is 'Ultra Torque.' When I tried installing the crank with the Seeger rings in place, the splined joint which ties the two sides of the crank axle together would barely engage. I ended up driving out one of the cups to remove the Seeger rings.

Last edited by joejack951; 01-10-17 at 02:42 PM.
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Old 02-02-17, 09:30 PM
  #54  
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Better pics will come but here are the Campy conversion arms on the HY/RD calipers (left, TRP original right):

TRP HY/RD with custom Campagnolo conversion arm by joe jackson, on Flickr

TRP HY/RD with custom Campagnolo conversion arm by joe jackson, on Flickr
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Old 02-04-17, 09:34 AM
  #55  
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Nice job on the conversion, much neater than my 2mm drilled hole. Excellent brakes when set up.
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Old 02-04-17, 12:23 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by PeakBoy View Post
Nice job on the conversion, much neater than my 2mm drilled hole. Excellent brakes when set up.
Most everyone seems pleased with the HY/RD calipers so I think I made the right choice.

With these new arms I like that there is a 'real' clamp that won't crush the brake cable like the rerouted cable arrangement does. I also feel better having the strain relief feature on the arm where the cable bends to reach the clamp.

I made the same offer over on Weight Weenies but if you are willing to test them out and provide some feedback I have a few extra sets of arms available for the cost of shipping.
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Old 02-05-17, 03:27 AM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
I made the same offer over on Weight Weenies but if you are willing to test them out and provide some feedback I have a few extra sets of arms available for the cost of shipping.
Thanks for the offer, but I don't think I'd trust my ability to swap the parts over without doing some damage.
I would recommend some compressionless cable housings for best feel with these brakes. Yokozuna Reaction, Jagwire or TRP are options. I have Yokozuna Reactions installed and the feel is very close to a full hydraulic set up.
The installation instructions can be a bit confusing. To get brake pad automatic adjustment it's important not to have too much tension on the cables (tight cables but the arm retaining screw should be able to be secured by hand). The screw should be disengaged when the brakes are in use or the pads reportedly won't adjust and brake performance is lost when the pads wear.
Looking forward to your first ride report.
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Old 02-05-17, 07:08 AM
  #58  
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Nothing better than close up pics of shiny new parts. Can't wait to see the whole build!
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Old 02-05-17, 02:21 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by PeakBoy View Post
Thanks for the offer, but I don't think I'd trust my ability to swap the parts over without doing some damage.
I'm going to make a quick video showing the conversion process but it is really simple. All you need is 1.5mm and 2mm hex keys.

Originally Posted by PeakBoy View Post
I would recommend some compressionless cable housings for best feel with these brakes. Yokozuna Reaction, Jagwire or TRP are options. I have Yokozuna Reactions installed and the feel is very close to a full hydraulic set up.
I'm about to buy a Yokozuna Reaction kit as it appears to be good value for all that's included, and available in white! However, I would like to know if you had any trouble routing the brake housing on your handlebars? TRP includes some flexible pieces for the bars which has me wondering how stiff some of these newe housings are. Years ago I used Jagwire Compressionless brake housing on my commuter with an Avid BB7 front brake and had no issue on the handlebars. I feel like I've read about handlebar issues elsewhere, too.


Originally Posted by PeakBoy View Post
The installation instructions can be a bit confusing. To get brake pad automatic adjustment it's important not to have too much tension on the cables (tight cables but the arm retaining screw should be able to be secured by hand). The screw should be disengaged when the brakes are in use or the pads reportedly won't adjust and brake performance is lost when the pads wear.
Looking forward to your first ride report.
I had to do some searching to confirm but I did manage to figure out the bit about how to get self-adjusting brakes. TRP could make that a lot more clear, though. Their warnings are quite clear with tags on the arm retaining screws but they leave it up to a short blurb on the product page to explain an otherwise confusing procedure.

I'm looking forward to riding this bike, too. I'm nearly finished building the wheels which has been a frustrating experience thanks to attempting to use a truing stand not designed for thru axle hubs, and because of the replaceable end cap feature on the Bitex hubs that makes aligning the wheel in the stand consistently darn near impossible. I need to design something like a thru axle fork end but in truing stand form for working on this wheel in the future.
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Old 02-06-17, 12:33 AM
  #60  
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The Yokozuna housings are quite stiff. I worked with my LBS on this as they had some quality cable cutters. I have additional bar top levers as well as Shimano (sorry!) older 10 speed shifters. Housing sits nicely in the bar groove. The bar top levers have meant that the rear brake housing could only be routed on the opposite side of the headset. No other issues and will probably shorten the housing by 20-30 mm now everything is proved. I can look at sharing some photos if you like.
Well done on figuring out the set up procedure! I've done it twice now (pre and post drilled arms). A few minutes per brake with practise ( you'll have come across people on the web spending hours and not getting it to work without the arm adjustment).
I'll be in touch directly regarding trying your spare modified arms.
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Old 02-06-17, 07:47 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
I need to design something like a thru axle fork end but in truing stand form for working on this wheel in the future.
You take awesome photos!

The Abbey Truing Stand Adapter works great, and there are many other good solutions off the shelf or easy enough to hack together as a DIY. I use the Abbey.
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Old 02-06-17, 08:38 AM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by PeakBoy View Post
The Yokozuna housings are quite stiff. I worked with my LBS on this as they had some quality cable cutters. I have additional bar top levers as well as Shimano (sorry!) older 10 speed shifters. Housing sits nicely in the bar groove. The bar top levers have meant that the rear brake housing could only be routed on the opposite side of the headset. No other issues and will probably shorten the housing by 20-30 mm now everything is proved. I can look at sharing some photos if you like.
Some photos would be nice if you have the time. Sounds like the Yokozuna housing flexible enough though. I am using Ritchey WCS Streem bars with partial internal routing but that appears to actually work in my favor as the bends required of the housing appear more gentle that on most standard bars I've seen. Time will tell. I'm ordering the kit today.

Originally Posted by PeakBoy View Post
Well done on figuring out the set up procedure! I've done it twice now (pre and post drilled arms). A few minutes per brake with practise ( you'll have come across people on the web spending hours and not getting it to work without the arm adjustment).
Given the great lengths to which TRP went to add that holding screw for the arm I figured it had to have some significance. I am tempted to remove it to save some weight, though

Originally Posted by PeakBoy View Post
I'll be in touch directly regarding trying your spare modified arms.
Sounds good. Two sets left.
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Old 02-06-17, 09:07 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by November Dave View Post
You take awesome photos!

The Abbey Truing Stand Adapter works great, and there are many other good solutions off the shelf or easy enough to hack together as a DIY. I use the Abbey.
Thanks!

I think the issue is mostly the Bitex hub. The replaceable end caps are a fairly loose fit and there is no 'pilot' on them to align them to the hub. With a thru axle in place, the axle takes care of the alignment. I started off using two Feedback axle adapters (Feedback Axle Adapters For Truing Stand > Accessories > Tools > Wheel Tools | Jenson USA). Clamping the wheel in place with those is what screwed me up the first time. The wheel was crooked and I didn't realize it. I got my tension, true, and dish perfect with the crooked reference. I wasn't happy when I installed the wheel on my fork and found it WAY out.

So then I tried only using the piece that fits into the axle with the QR nipple on it. Using a typical quick release axle to clamp it into my stand, I can sorta make it work but it still won't align perfectly every time. For now, I'm going to just use my fork as my stand rather than continue to fight the alignment issues. If I build more wheels using these hubs in the future I plan to make an adapter that goes all the way through the hub like a thru axle, aligning both end caps. I'll leave it just short of the end caps with some little nipples on it and a thru hole for a quick release to clamp it all in place.

Like this:
thru axle adapter by joe jackson, on Flickr

Last edited by joejack951; 02-06-17 at 09:13 AM.
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Old 02-06-17, 10:00 AM
  #64  
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The tool in your sketch would likely work fine. I built several TA wheels in our Park 2.2 stands just using 12mm and 15mm (as appropriate) stock for dummy axles in the stand. It was inconvenient and finicky, but the results were great. And it was like a $7 project at McMaster.
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Old 02-06-17, 10:07 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by November Dave View Post
The tool in your sketch would likely work fine. I built several TA wheels in our Park 2.2 stands just using 12mm and 15mm (as appropriate) stock for dummy axles in the stand. It was inconvenient and finicky, but the results were great. And it was like a $7 project at McMaster.
That was essentially my original plan (I was going to tap the ends of the bar stock for wing screws to secure the wheel and axle) but then I found those Feedback adapter for so cheap. In hindsight, I should have gone with my original plan as it would have worked better and been slightly cheaper than two of those adapters. Oh well.
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Old 02-07-17, 03:14 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
Some photos would be nice if you have the time. Sounds like the Yokozuna housing flexible enough though. I am using Ritchey WCS Streem bars with partial internal routing but that appears to actually work in my favor as the bends required of the housing appear more gentle that on most standard bars I've seen. Time will tell. I'm ordering the kit today.



Given the great lengths to which TRP went to add that holding screw for the arm I figured it had to have some significance. I am tempted to remove it to save some weight, though



Sounds good. Two sets left.


A few photos of the cable routing. Apologies for photo quality - dark garage! My winter bike is a cyclocross frame, the cable routing over the top tube does tend to make things a bit congested. I may shorten the cable housings at some point.
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Old 02-10-17, 10:07 AM
  #67  
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I got the Yokozuna housing. It routed through the frame easily enough for the rear brake, though I had to start it at the chain stay to get it past the bottom bracket. Routing it through the handlebars seems doable but it is tight. Really tight. It takes a lot of finesse to get the housing to slide through the channels thanks to the rough inner surface of the bars and the ribbed outer surface of the housing. I'm going to try a little lube on the housing to see if that helps things assemble a little easier. Fingers crossed.
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Old 02-13-17, 01:22 PM
  #68  
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Wheels are basically done. Rear needs final tensioning and truing which I am wondering if anyone has opinions about (I'm sure someone does!). I brought the front disc side spokes up to 110 kgf per my Park TM-1 chart which yielded a disc side of ~90 kgf. I have the rear drive side currently at 100 kgf which yields a NDS of ~64 kgf. At best I guess I'll see 70 kgf NDS with a DS of 110 kgf. That isn't terribly confidence inspiring (nor is it godawful, though) but I'm a little hesitant to up the drive side to 120 kgf. What would the other amateur (or pro) wheel builders do here?
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Old 02-14-17, 09:36 AM
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I settled on aiming for 110 kgf on the DS for the rear. Final measurements were 110-116 kgf DS and 64-70 kgf NDS. And for the weight weenie in all of us:

Untitled by joe jackson, on Flickr

Untitled by joe jackson, on Flickr

Rims (tubular): 40mm Aero Rim-UAM CARBON WHEELS,carbon wheels,carbon frame,carbon bicycle parts_
Hubs (custom white!, 15mm thru axle front, 12mm thru axle rear): Bitex : MTB hub,BMX hub,SHOW hub,FOLDING hub,CHILD hub, Wheelchair hub, Bitex : MTB hub,BMX hub,SHOW hub,FOLDING hub,CHILD hub, Wheelchair hub
Spokes: 24/28 F/R Sapim CX-Ray with aluminum nipples
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Old 02-14-17, 10:54 AM
  #70  
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Hey JoeJack, this bike looks gorgeous. definitely giving this a follow.
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Old 02-14-17, 12:06 PM
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Nice weight on the wheels. How much do the rims go for?
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Old 02-14-17, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by srestrepo View Post
Hey JoeJack, this bike looks gorgeous. definitely giving this a follow.
Thanks!

Originally Posted by WhyFi View Post
Nice weight on the wheels. How much do the rims go for?
I paid ~$258 for the pair. I say 'roughly' because it was lumped into a $950 purchase which included the frameset (frame, fork, seatpost), headset, shipping and Paypal fees. $258 was the original quoted price.

Per my spreadsheet, the wheels came in a little porkier than expected (105 grams to be exact). The rims accounted for 50 grams of that (380 claimed, 405 actual) and I guess the hubs made up for the rest. I didn't weigh the hubs separately, though, so I only have Bitex's claimed weights. I imagine the white powder coat added a few grams and maybe the chunkier splines of the Campy freehub added the rest. Still, not bad for a $517 wheelset. And it gives me an excuse to later build a pair of really lightweight wheels for this bike
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Old 02-14-17, 12:28 PM
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Also curious about the rims.
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Old 02-14-17, 12:32 PM
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I should add that the rims were actually purchased through Hongfu, just like the frameset. They were supplied with UAM-branded rim strips (standard practice I guess, not needed for my tubular tires) and valve extenders (the cheap kind, replaced with Continental 'real' extenders), though. FWIW.
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Old 02-14-17, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
I paid ~$258 for the pair. I say 'roughly' because it was lumped into a $950 purchase which included the frameset (frame, fork, seatpost), headset, shipping and Paypal fees. $258 was the original quoted price.

Per my spreadsheet, the wheels came in a little porkier than expected (105 grams to be exact). The rims accounted for 50 grams of that (380 claimed, 405 actual) and I guess the hubs made up for the rest. I didn't weigh the hubs separately, though, so I only have Bitex's claimed weights. I imagine the white powder coat added a few grams and maybe the chunkier splines of the Campy freehub added the rest. Still, not bad for a $517 wheelset. And it gives me an excuse to later build a pair of really lightweight wheels for this bike
Originally Posted by joejack951 View Post
I should add that the rims were actually purchased through Hongfu, just like the frameset. They were supplied with UAM-branded rim strips (standard practice I guess, not needed for my tubular tires) and valve extenders (the cheap kind, replaced with Continental 'real' extenders), though. FWIW.
Ah, I didn't catch that they were tubies. Still, I would expect the clinchers to come in close to the same price. If they could build up around 1600g that'd still be attractive.
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