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52x36 vs 50x34

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Road Cycling ďIt is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.Ē -- Ernest Hemingway

52x36 vs 50x34

Old 09-21-19, 07:16 AM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
That's some weak reasoning right there. Why spend a bunch of coin on a complete crankset, when all he needs to do is swap out the small chainring?
Because if you are going 39t on the small ring, it makes good sense to bump up the big ring also. No sense in narrowing the gearing range when you can gain some downhill speed. Besides, 53/39 carbon cranksets aren't that expensive on Ebay.
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Old 09-21-19, 07:51 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Caliper View Post
Because if you are going 39t on the small ring, it makes good sense to bump up the big ring also. No sense in narrowing the gearing range when you can gain some downhill speed. Besides, 53/39 carbon cranksets aren't that expensive on Ebay.
they're a lot more expensive than a 39t ring.
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Old 09-21-19, 07:58 AM
  #128  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
they're a lot more expensive than a 39t ring.
Sure, but you also get more so it's worth it.
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Old 09-21-19, 08:17 AM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Caliper View Post
Sure, but you also get more so it's worth it.
At a cadence of 90, a 53x11 is 33.9 mph. A 52x11 is 33.3 mph.

Not much of a difference in speed, but a huge difference in cost.
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Old 09-21-19, 08:25 AM
  #130  
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Thought I'd heard that (maybe just Campy?) that the shifting ramps on the rings are paired for efficient FD changes.. ie. the 53/39 ramps are paired optimally, 52/36 are paired optimally etc.. Any shifting smoothness downside to using rings mismatched from originally intended by the manufacturer?
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Old 09-21-19, 08:26 AM
  #131  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
At a cadence of 90, a 53x11 is 33.9 mph. A 52x11 is 33.3 mph.

Not much of a difference in speed, but a huge difference in cost.
By the time you spin it up all the way, the gain is more like .8-.9mph though. I'd call that worthwhile. Hitting a new top speed PR always makes a ride.
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Old 09-21-19, 08:32 AM
  #132  
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Originally Posted by Caliper View Post
By the time you spin it up all the way, the gain is more like .8-.9mph though. I'd call that worthwhile. Hitting a new top speed PR always makes a ride.
My top speed PR is in the mid 50s, so gearing isn't going to change that.
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Old 09-21-19, 08:48 AM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
My top speed PR is in the mid 50s, so gearing isn't going to change that.
That's great if you live in the mountains I guess. Around here you're only getting to the mid/upper 30's by coasting. Getting faster means gearing.
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Old 09-21-19, 09:04 AM
  #134  
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Originally Posted by Caliper View Post
By the time you spin it up all the way, the gain is more like .8-.9mph though. I'd call that worthwhile. Hitting a new top speed PR always makes a ride.


Go for the 70t ring,

and watch the KOMs roll in!
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Old 09-21-19, 09:12 AM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
That's some weak reasoning right there. Why spend a bunch of coin on a complete crankset, when all he needs to do is swap out the small chainring?
One reason would be the ramps won't line up correctly.
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Old 09-21-19, 12:19 PM
  #136  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
One reason would be the ramps won't line up correctly.
It wonít change a thing.
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Old 09-23-19, 04:47 PM
  #137  
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I had a 53/39 on my older '88 bike, and when I got a new bike a few years ago it came with a 50/34. In Albuquerque we have rolling hills, and when you need to shift the front, thats usually too big of a jump so you need to ALSO shift the rear. With the 53/39 this was rarely the case. In Tucson I remember a racer that had something like a 53/48.
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Old 09-23-19, 07:34 PM
  #138  
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Old 09-23-19, 08:58 PM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by Caliper View Post
That's great if you live in the mountains I guess. Around here you're only getting to the mid/upper 30's by coasting. Getting faster means gearing.
50x12 takes me near 40mph. I'm not strong enough for anything more on flatland.
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Old 09-23-19, 09:10 PM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
50x12 takes me near 40mph. I'm not strong enough for anything more on flatland.
How long can you maintain approx 110 rpm?
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Old 09-23-19, 09:25 PM
  #141  
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The day I spin out 42-10 on flat ground is the day I'll consider new gearing... because I'd have to be putting out +1,200W to do so. As I can currently sustain 1,200W for precisely zero seconds, I'd say my current gearing is adequate.
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Old 09-23-19, 09:30 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by georgiaboy View Post



How long can you maintain approx 110 rpm?
110 is a reasonably comfortable high cadence. In a real sprint, it can go well over 125.
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Old 09-23-19, 09:36 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
The day I spin out 42-10 on flat ground is the day I'll consider new gearing... because I'd have to be putting out +1,200W to do so. As I can currently sustain 1,200W for precisely zero seconds, I'd say my current gearing is adequate.
You have convinced me. Can you tell me who makes a 10 tooth cog or a cassette so I can try the 42 x 10 gearing?
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Old 09-23-19, 09:39 PM
  #144  
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Old 09-23-19, 09:39 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
110 is a reasonably comfortable high cadence. In a real sprint, it can go well over 125.
Yeah sprinter can do it for 300 meters which isnít helpful for any serious riding. I notice you didnít state the duration. You donít need to tell me I donít want to know, anymore.
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Old 09-23-19, 09:47 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by georgiaboy View Post
Yeah sprinter can do it for 300 meters which isnít helpful for any serious riding. I notice you didnít state the duration. You donít need to tell me I donít want to know, anymore.
Some people here talk about 110 being a high cadence, but itís really no big deal.

spend some time in the Rockies on a FG bike, and youíll learn how to spin a high cadence.
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Old 09-23-19, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by noodle soup View Post
Some people here talk about 110 being a high cadence, but it’s really no big deal.

spend some time in the Rockies on a FG bike, and you’ll learn how to spin a high cadence.
Why bust my ass on a FG in the Rockies when I could just log into BF’s and say anything I want?
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Old 09-23-19, 11:18 PM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by woodcraft View Post
Go for the 70t ring,

and watch the KOMs roll in!
some people here actually believe this.

They can't spin along at 110 rpms, but think they can push a huge gear.
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Old 10-21-19, 12:00 PM
  #149  
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This is a very interesting thread. Found it because I think I need to go the opposite direction. I'm currently running 50/34 rings with a 11-30 cassette which I think is not enough. I think swapping out my rings for a 52/36 and keeping the 11-30 would be perfect for me. I'm constantly in a pretty high gear, and I have never shifted out of the big ring unless I am doing some steep sustained climbing. This is a typical weekly solo effort on the flat with three complete stops factored in (stop signs and lights), showing I spent most of the time in the 12. It's a steady high effort pace so I am not surging or sprinting. If I were to sprint, I would need more than 50-11 as I have been in sprints and tried to shift only to find out I was already in the 11 and there was nothing more...and I regularly spin out going downhill. My FTP is calculated by real one hour efforts on the road, not 20min tests on a trainer. I'm not a lightweight either over 50, and at 206lbs. The power pic is from a separate ride so I can turn the gear. I'm not a "spinner" when it comes to sustained power output on the flats. If I am sprinting I will be 115+.
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Old 10-21-19, 12:29 PM
  #150  
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Now that I have almost 800 miles on the new bike (50-34 & 11/34), I can say that I def made the right choice. Have done several rides with over 10,000ft of climbing and it was great having the extra gear. Also have no trouble keeping up with the A group rides. Sure, I spin out going downhill, but at that point I'm doing 40+mph and gravity can take over from there.
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