What is the first thing you should upgrade on a road bike?
#51
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First item would be adding a powermeter
#52
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Seat. Gotta be the seat. If you are not comfortable, then it won't be fun and you won't ride.
Much of the suggested stuff are consumables. Tires, chain, cassette....when they wear out, buy better.
#1-seat
#2-shorts
#3-gloves, sunglasses and jersey
After that stuff, consider a new bike.
Much of the suggested stuff are consumables. Tires, chain, cassette....when they wear out, buy better.
#1-seat
#2-shorts
#3-gloves, sunglasses and jersey
After that stuff, consider a new bike.
#53
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For me it’s the saddle if I don’t like the saddle the bike came with. But I wouldn’t call that an “upgrade”. It’s more of a fitting issue. My last new bike came with the same saddle I was already using, so I didn’t need to change it.
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one of the first things I check are the rim strips - the protective band on the inside portion of the rim to protect the tube (from sharp edges, etc)
the hard plastic rim strips can / will cause problems - sooner or later
the second thing - of course - is to replace any water bottle cage bolts with low profile aluminum or titanium bolts
the hard plastic rim strips can / will cause problems - sooner or later
the second thing - of course - is to replace any water bottle cage bolts with low profile aluminum or titanium bolts
#55
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Don't be this guy, right?...
Do those road bike guys with the matching outfits know you're racing them? Most charity rides I'm familiar with don't award top-finisher prizes, or even keep track of placings.
If someone has a preference for an expensive road bike, and rides in the kit of their local club featuring the logos of local businesses (or even the kit of their favorite pro team), how does that negatively affect your cycling experience?
Do those road bike guys with the matching outfits know you're racing them? Most charity rides I'm familiar with don't award top-finisher prizes, or even keep track of placings.
If someone has a preference for an expensive road bike, and rides in the kit of their local club featuring the logos of local businesses (or even the kit of their favorite pro team), how does that negatively affect your cycling experience?
win at any cost
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but as a smurf maybe I primarily pay attention to the smaller stuff (and missed them)
this was before the ‘flared’ bars became more popular on gravel type bikes
#57
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#58
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Every time that happens, our ego gets crushed, and we spend the rest of our ride reflecting on our poor choices and pathetic existence. Then, we go shopping for a new bike, new wheels, or a more pro-looking kit to make sure it never happens again.
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after sucking wheels for most of a ride I would wait until they grabbed for their water bottles and then sprint (sorta) to victory
gotta be opportunistic
gotta be opportunistic
#60
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I have no defense for your crafty tactics. I should stop riding bikes. I'm not very good at it.
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I was rolling along at an easy tempo pace on my gravel bike, while wearing lycra (not a team kit, but high-quality stuff all from the same manufacturer) and a roadie helmet. On a sight rise, a guy on a mid-level road bike with clip-on aero bars slowly came by me on my left side, got about a bike length ahead of me, stagnated there for a little bit, and then slowly drifted back. Did I lose?
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1st- Saddle, if the stock one isnt a good fit.
2nd- Pedals.
3rd- Tires, if the stock ones arent good quality.
4th- Stem, if the stock one isnt the right length or angle.
5th- Bars, if needed.
6th- Bar tape, if you dont like whats on there.
7th- Cassette, if the stock range doesnt work.
8th- Wheels.
2nd- Pedals.
3rd- Tires, if the stock ones arent good quality.
4th- Stem, if the stock one isnt the right length or angle.
5th- Bars, if needed.
6th- Bar tape, if you dont like whats on there.
7th- Cassette, if the stock range doesnt work.
8th- Wheels.
#63
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Wheels, generally, are the easiest to upgrade.
IMO groupsets make a middling difference. What matters most for a groupset is the overall gear range.
Frame weight is also always noticed.
Seat comfort is more important than the piddling amount of weight that can be saved with an uncomfortable but light seat.
Suspension seatposts are well worth the weight. Suspension forks generally are not worth the weight.
IMO groupsets make a middling difference. What matters most for a groupset is the overall gear range.
Frame weight is also always noticed.
Seat comfort is more important than the piddling amount of weight that can be saved with an uncomfortable but light seat.
Suspension seatposts are well worth the weight. Suspension forks generally are not worth the weight.
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Tires will make more of a difference in the quality of the ride, and cost a lot less.
The most important factor in saddle comfort is shape.
Depends on the bike and the terrain. On a MTB, the suspension fork is generally worth every bit of the weight.
Seat comfort is more important than the piddling amount of weight that can be saved with an uncomfortable but light seat.
Suspension seatposts are well worth the weight. Suspension forks generally are not worth the weight.
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I don't know about a CF race bike, but my roadster first got my SA dyno XL DRUM brake front wheel.
Works like new after 30,000 miles on my tour bike.
And my tour bike got a new one the same with a Dyad rim and 2.3/ 2.0 spokes.
Works like new after 30,000 miles on my tour bike.
And my tour bike got a new one the same with a Dyad rim and 2.3/ 2.0 spokes.
Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 08-31-23 at 02:46 PM.
#66
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A good pair of shorts or bibs can be a good upgrade enabling you to ride longer and more comfortably.
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Would it be pedals, saddle, handlebars, shifters? Maybe tires and rims? Other parts do wear out like chainrings, cassettes, chains, and derailleurs. These usually all need to be replaced together anyways. For me, on one bike it was the saddle. I always try to see if the stock saddle will work for me. If not, I replace it. I've upgraded two cassettes on two different bikes when they wore out. Generally just increasing the range of gearing from a 12-25 to a 12-28 and another from a 11-30 to a 11-32. What about the rest of you??
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I understand that many luv Velox 4-ever, but high pressure rim strips are already a major improvement over rubber band rim strips found on all BSO as well as many low to mid end LBS bikes, especially if they are single walled rims.
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Two gold chains. One for the bike and the other around your neck. (… it’s not how you feel, it’s how you look…)
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There's things left to upgrade when you get done building your new bike? Should have done a better build.
As others have mentioned; saddle if needed, tires are usually necessary and potentially wheels, potentially crank length. While I build any road and track bikes, the family mtbs are off the shelf and the crank lengths are always wrong. Having injured both knees over the last couple years I've learned that length does effect the feel on the knees. I'd suspect if I bought a road bike off the shelf there's a chance it'll be too long as well.
As others have mentioned; saddle if needed, tires are usually necessary and potentially wheels, potentially crank length. While I build any road and track bikes, the family mtbs are off the shelf and the crank lengths are always wrong. Having injured both knees over the last couple years I've learned that length does effect the feel on the knees. I'd suspect if I bought a road bike off the shelf there's a chance it'll be too long as well.
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What is wrong with a gold chain other than hurting your sensitivities ? I got a deal on KMC SL chain and while I am not fussy about the color it works well with an otherwise fussy groupset.
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