shoota 

Actually, I think I'm starting to narrow it down. This RD (just like most RDs) doesn't love getting into and out of the 11t cog. If I get just the correct combination of the rd hesitating to get into the 11t, stop pedalling, and just the right lack of chain tension, it comes off the outside of the chainring. All that seems to have to happen very quickly and at just the right timing. but it never fails to happens right when I'm trying to do a hard effort (hence the 11T) and I get left in the dust with greasy fingers. It really burns me up.

Bryan C. 

Sounds like that orbit technology on the road AXS isn't up to task.

I use a Wolftooth drop stop chainring and a clutched derailleur and have yet to drop a chain on my Diverge.

Bryan C. 

What chainring are you using? Is your chainline correct?

shoota 

42T Oval Wolftooth on a Dura-Ace 9000 crank. Don't know about the chainline, I just installed as it seems it should go on. I'm not sure how you would adjust the chainline on this crank?

Bryan C. 

From what you describe it may be a chainline issue. Shift the rear derailleur to your centermost cog on the cassette and see if the chain is straight. Most shimano cranksets you can add/remove spacers on the drive side of the bottom bracket.

shoota 

Ok cool, I'll check when I get home. Thx

Duende108

Getting to the question posed on this thread... to clutch or not to clutch.

Sounds like the answer is:

clutch is sometimes necessary for 1x and big cigs in the back (49 tooth plus)

but for 2x and smaller rear cogs (36 tooth etc) it’s not completely necessary.

FWIW, I run 50/34 up front and 12-34 in the rear. Minimal chain slap, and never drop my chain (knock on wood). So it’s a non-issue for me with my current rig.

Cyclist0108

2X and 3X have front derailleurs, which help to keep the chain from coming off. The decrease in chain-slap is a nice side-effect, but the main purpose is to keep the chain from coming off the front 1X ring, especially on the lower gear shifts.

FlashBazbo

To clutch or not to clutch? Even the manufacturers acknowledge that the clutch, when engaged, causes drag on the drivetrain. It is noticeable.

I have a clutch rd on my gravel bike, but I never use it on roads and "civilized" gravel. I only engage it when I expect drops or major craters in the gravel. Back before clutch-bearing road rd's existed, I never ever dropped a chain on gravel -- even the gnarliest gravel. My only chain drop ever was in a road race when I shifted the fd while going across a railroad crossing. (Pilot error -- bad timing.)

If I couldn't disengage the clutch? I wouldn't have a clutch-style rd.

rosefarts

FWIW, I did a spring clean on my bike and also addressed the high drag on my clutch today.

The clutch is under a plate held on by 3 little screws. I removed it and there is a tiny nut that is clearly for the tension of the spring. I backed it out just a little bit with needle nose pliers. After reassembly, I can't tell the difference in drag from ON to OFF.

I guess it's possible that I could experience a little more movement in the on position now, but I messed with it on the stand for a while, I think it's great.

So for Shimano Shadow stuff, lesson learned. They're really easy to adjust.