ISO 60-64 x 56-58 CTC Frameset, 28C+ Tire Clearance, 72°-73° STA.
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 4,129
Bikes: 1975 Motobecane Grand Jubile, 2020 Holdsworth Competition, 2022 Giant Trance 29 3
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3361 Post(s)
Liked 3,638 Times
in
1,244 Posts
ISO 60-64 x 56-58 CTC Frameset, 28C+ Tire Clearance, 72°-73° STA.
It seems like my main road bike has a crack in the downtube, so I'm looking into getting another frameset to replace it.
You guys know the typical drill, I'm looking for vintage lugged steel, but I do have a few things that I'm looking for in particular.
I really fit the best on something with a 56-58mm top tube and a 72°-73° seat tube angle, and at least a 60cm seat tube.
I need to run at least 28C tires due to the awful roads around here, clearance for bigger is always a plus!
Since I want to use this as my main road bike, I would appreciate reasonably short chainstays and a nice, reasonably light double-butted tubeset (I'm about 190lbs, so maybe nothing really noodly). My only real experience is with Columbus Tenax that mid-late 80s Schwinns are made of, but I'm definitely open to other flavors.
My intentions are to eventually put some modern 10-11 speed components on, so rear spacing of at least 126mm would be great. I'm not scared of spreading the rear triangle, but I'd rather go from 126-130m than 120-130mm.
And last, but not least, I would absolutely love a bright, obnoxious paint job, although it's not a deal-breaker if its not. Think pinks, dayglow colors, or wild 80s paint jobs. Colors that would look good with black components on them. I really only say this because it's way easier to find good deals on modern black components than anything in silver.
Currently, my thoughts are that if I stay within my comfort zone of Schwinn bikes, that a 86-87 Prologue might fit the bill nicely.
Also, not looking to spend much more than $200 $250.
I know it may seem like I'm looking for a unicorn, but thankfully I'm also in no real rush. I doubt I would be in a buying position for at least a month, so I can be patient. It helps that I have a couple other bikes that I can ride in the mean-time .
Thanks!
You guys know the typical drill, I'm looking for vintage lugged steel, but I do have a few things that I'm looking for in particular.
I really fit the best on something with a 56-58mm top tube and a 72°-73° seat tube angle, and at least a 60cm seat tube.
I need to run at least 28C tires due to the awful roads around here, clearance for bigger is always a plus!
Since I want to use this as my main road bike, I would appreciate reasonably short chainstays and a nice, reasonably light double-butted tubeset (I'm about 190lbs, so maybe nothing really noodly). My only real experience is with Columbus Tenax that mid-late 80s Schwinns are made of, but I'm definitely open to other flavors.
My intentions are to eventually put some modern 10-11 speed components on, so rear spacing of at least 126mm would be great. I'm not scared of spreading the rear triangle, but I'd rather go from 126-130m than 120-130mm.
And last, but not least, I would absolutely love a bright, obnoxious paint job, although it's not a deal-breaker if its not. Think pinks, dayglow colors, or wild 80s paint jobs. Colors that would look good with black components on them. I really only say this because it's way easier to find good deals on modern black components than anything in silver.
Currently, my thoughts are that if I stay within my comfort zone of Schwinn bikes, that a 86-87 Prologue might fit the bill nicely.
Also, not looking to spend much more than $200 $250.
I know it may seem like I'm looking for a unicorn, but thankfully I'm also in no real rush. I doubt I would be in a buying position for at least a month, so I can be patient. It helps that I have a couple other bikes that I can ride in the mean-time .
Thanks!
Last edited by abshipp; 09-22-18 at 08:32 PM. Reason: Details
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 3,421
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD, 197? FW Evans
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 533 Post(s)
Liked 1,007 Times
in
516 Posts
How about a 1984 Paramount Touring frame in Fireball Red? 63.5 cm center to top ST, 58 cm center to center TT. Chain stays are 44cm. It has 35-40 mm tire clearance between the frame and fork. 126 mm spacing. It has rack and fender mounts, plus braze-ons for 3 water bottles. Columbus tubing. Paramount (Stronglite) roller bearing headset. BB not included. I had it built up, and it rode great, but it is really too big. I normally ride a 58 cm. Asking $300 plus shipping.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 7,828
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1872 Post(s)
Liked 692 Times
in
468 Posts
How about a 1984 Paramount Touring frame in Fireball Red? 63.5 cm center to top ST, 58 cm center to center TT. Chain stays are 44cm. It has 35-40 mm tire clearance between the frame and fork. 126 mm spacing. It has rack and fender mounts, plus braze-ons for 3 water bottles. Columbus tubing. Paramount (Stronglite) roller bearing headset. BB not included. I had it built up, and it rode great, but it is really too big. I normally ride a 58 cm. Asking $300 plus shipping.
Why can't I find it in the catalogs?
__________________
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
Last edited by shoota; 09-24-18 at 12:56 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 3,421
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD, 197? FW Evans
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 533 Post(s)
Liked 1,007 Times
in
516 Posts
Paramounts were custom ordered, so they just have a page that talks about the Paramount line, but no specifics. It does say you can get touring, racing or track frames and whatever braze-ons you want.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 4,129
Bikes: 1975 Motobecane Grand Jubile, 2020 Holdsworth Competition, 2022 Giant Trance 29 3
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3361 Post(s)
Liked 3,638 Times
in
1,244 Posts
Replied via PM to everyone!
Some beautiful frames in here, keep them coming!
Thanks!
Some beautiful frames in here, keep them coming!
Thanks!
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 3,421
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD, 197? FW Evans
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 533 Post(s)
Liked 1,007 Times
in
516 Posts
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NW Ohio
Posts: 3,421
Bikes: 1984 Miyata 310, 1986 Schwinn Sierra, 2011 Jamis Quest, 1980 Peugeot TH8 Tandem, 1992 Performance Parabola, 1987 Ross Mt. Hood, 1988 Schwinn LeTour, 1988 Trek 400T, 1981 Fuji S12-S LTD, 197? FW Evans
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 533 Post(s)
Liked 1,007 Times
in
516 Posts
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 7,828
Mentioned: 33 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1872 Post(s)
Liked 692 Times
in
468 Posts
Wow I'm surprised you can even stand over this at all. I'm 6' and don't think I could make this work, unless I'm missing something?
__________________
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Angeles, WA
Posts: 7,922
Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
Mentioned: 194 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1627 Post(s)
Liked 630 Times
in
356 Posts
Oooh, that reminds me - @abshipp - pretty much all those early 70s Raleighs have shortish top tubes. And generous tire clearance: 32mm no problem, 35mm and 38mm on most of them. And varying degrees of 531-ness.
__________________
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
Last edited by Lascauxcaveman; 09-29-18 at 01:04 AM.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 550
Bikes: Too many, but sometimes not enough.
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 18 Times
in
14 Posts
It sounds like you're in the same boat I am -- very long legs for your height. I don't have any frames to offer, but have some suggestions. Generally, stick to frames made before about 1980. That was when almost everyone started offering "proportionally sized" frames, where the top tube grew substantially with the seat tube. Prior to that, a 52cm bike and a 62cm bike from most production makers would share a 56 or 57cm top tube. Also, your tire clearance requirements are easy to meet with older frames, but by the mid 80's, many top quality frames were designed around 23 or 25mm tires, without clearance for much more.
If you can find one, I heartily recommend the 1975-79 Centurion Semi Pro, or Pro Tour. They were made with Tange #1 or #2 tubing, and used a 56.5cm top tube across the range of sizes. Also, I just picked up an early Fuji Finest. The 72-75 versions came with very short top tubes. (Mine is 62cm x 55cm). I haven't had one, but I've seen several Shogun branded bikes from the early 80s with short top tubes as well.
If you do want to find a more modern, 80s-90s bike -- look for touring bikes. Some of them were made with shorter top tubes, and greater tire clearance even when racing bikes were getting more specialized. The only gotcha is they tended to use heavier tubing, making for a more staid, dead ride compared to a high end bike with light tubing.
If you can find one, I heartily recommend the 1975-79 Centurion Semi Pro, or Pro Tour. They were made with Tange #1 or #2 tubing, and used a 56.5cm top tube across the range of sizes. Also, I just picked up an early Fuji Finest. The 72-75 versions came with very short top tubes. (Mine is 62cm x 55cm). I haven't had one, but I've seen several Shogun branded bikes from the early 80s with short top tubes as well.
If you do want to find a more modern, 80s-90s bike -- look for touring bikes. Some of them were made with shorter top tubes, and greater tire clearance even when racing bikes were getting more specialized. The only gotcha is they tended to use heavier tubing, making for a more staid, dead ride compared to a high end bike with light tubing.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,990
Bikes: ‘87 Marinoni SLX Sports Tourer, ‘79 Miyata 912 by Gugificazione
Mentioned: 166 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 502 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times
in
256 Posts
You might also look for an early Miyata 912 or 710, when they came with 27” wheels. More tire clearance when switched to 700C - my ‘79 912 runs 700x28’s with fenders, 32’s without. TT’s are short, but the ST angle tends to be steeper than your desire. I solved that with a Truvativ very long setback seatpost. Unfortunately, they have 120mm rear spacing, but mine is doing fine having been professionally spread to 130mm long ago. Their original paint finishes seem to be very durable, but not very obnoxious.
#16
1/2 as far in 2x the time
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Northern Bergen County, NJ
Posts: 1,746
Bikes: Yes, Please.
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 499 Post(s)
Liked 285 Times
in
222 Posts
If you're still looking, I have a 63cm turquoise '87 Bianchi Trofeo. Tt ctc 57 1/2. It has some scuffs and scrapes, but not too bad. I can post pics some time tomorrow. Bianchi "Formula Two" spec'ed Columbus tubing, throughout. $150 plus shipping, and includes Shimano 105 headset and Shimano sealed BB. Way too big for me. I was expecting a 59.
Eric
Eric
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 4,129
Bikes: 1975 Motobecane Grand Jubile, 2020 Holdsworth Competition, 2022 Giant Trance 29 3
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3361 Post(s)
Liked 3,638 Times
in
1,244 Posts
It sounds like you're in the same boat I am -- very long legs for your height. I don't have any frames to offer, but have some suggestions. Generally, stick to frames made before about 1980. That was when almost everyone started offering "proportionally sized" frames, where the top tube grew substantially with the seat tube. Prior to that, a 52cm bike and a 62cm bike from most production makers would share a 56 or 57cm top tube. Also, your tire clearance requirements are easy to meet with older frames, but by the mid 80's, many top quality frames were designed around 23 or 25mm tires, without clearance for much more.
If you can find one, I heartily recommend the 1975-79 Centurion Semi Pro, or Pro Tour. They were made with Tange #1 or #2 tubing, and used a 56.5cm top tube across the range of sizes. Also, I just picked up an early Fuji Finest. The 72-75 versions came with very short top tubes. (Mine is 62cm x 55cm). I haven't had one, but I've seen several Shogun branded bikes from the early 80s with short top tubes as well.
If you do want to find a more modern, 80s-90s bike -- look for touring bikes. Some of them were made with shorter top tubes, and greater tire clearance even when racing bikes were getting more specialized. The only gotcha is they tended to use heavier tubing, making for a more staid, dead ride compared to a high end bike with light tubing.
If you can find one, I heartily recommend the 1975-79 Centurion Semi Pro, or Pro Tour. They were made with Tange #1 or #2 tubing, and used a 56.5cm top tube across the range of sizes. Also, I just picked up an early Fuji Finest. The 72-75 versions came with very short top tubes. (Mine is 62cm x 55cm). I haven't had one, but I've seen several Shogun branded bikes from the early 80s with short top tubes as well.
If you do want to find a more modern, 80s-90s bike -- look for touring bikes. Some of them were made with shorter top tubes, and greater tire clearance even when racing bikes were getting more specialized. The only gotcha is they tended to use heavier tubing, making for a more staid, dead ride compared to a high end bike with light tubing.
You might also look for an early Miyata 912 or 710, when they came with 27” wheels. More tire clearance when switched to 700C - my ‘79 912 runs 700x28’s with fenders, 32’s without. TT’s are short, but the ST angle tends to be steeper than your desire. I solved that with a Truvativ very long setback seatpost. Unfortunately, they have 120mm rear spacing, but mine is doing fine having been professionally spread to 130mm long ago. Their original paint finishes seem to be very durable, but not very obnoxious.
I do have an 86 Schwinn Passage frame that I'm trying to decide what to do with, it has almost everything that I'm looking for - 72.5° HT & ST angles and nice looking lugs, but I'm just not terribly thrilled with the super long touring chainstays or the cantilever post placement. I also can't find much info about whether the Tenax tubing on the touring bikes is any different from the rest of the road bike line that Schwinn was producing at the time, so I can't really predict how it will ride unless I build it up complete.
I really am thinking about my next bike being a well equipped 650b all-road/randonneuring bike, but turning the Passage into that would require a lot of brazing and rework, as well as a new fork with 65mm+ of rake to get the trail figures I'm looking for. Currently I'm weighing my options about making those modifications or saving my pennies for something brand new like a Crust Lightning Bolt or Black Mountain Road+
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: San Marcos, CA
Posts: 550
Bikes: Too many, but sometimes not enough.
Mentioned: 32 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 225 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 18 Times
in
14 Posts
Thanks for the suggestions, I've managed to cool my heels and finally convince myself that I'm okay with taking a while to look around to find something that really suits me, so I'll start looking around for the Centurions you mentioned.
I do have an 86 Schwinn Passage frame that I'm trying to decide what to do with, it has almost everything that I'm looking for - 72.5° HT & ST angles and nice looking lugs, but I'm just not terribly thrilled with the super long touring chainstays or the cantilever post placement. I also can't find much info about whether the Tenax tubing on the touring bikes is any different from the rest of the road bike line that Schwinn was producing at the time, so I can't really predict how it will ride unless I build it up complete.
I really am thinking about my next bike being a well equipped 650b all-road/randonneuring bike, but turning the Passage into that would require a lot of brazing and rework, as well as a new fork with 65mm+ of rake to get the trail figures I'm looking for. Currently I'm weighing my options about making those modifications or saving my pennies for something brand new like a Crust Lightning Bolt or Black Mountain Road+
I do have an 86 Schwinn Passage frame that I'm trying to decide what to do with, it has almost everything that I'm looking for - 72.5° HT & ST angles and nice looking lugs, but I'm just not terribly thrilled with the super long touring chainstays or the cantilever post placement. I also can't find much info about whether the Tenax tubing on the touring bikes is any different from the rest of the road bike line that Schwinn was producing at the time, so I can't really predict how it will ride unless I build it up complete.
I really am thinking about my next bike being a well equipped 650b all-road/randonneuring bike, but turning the Passage into that would require a lot of brazing and rework, as well as a new fork with 65mm+ of rake to get the trail figures I'm looking for. Currently I'm weighing my options about making those modifications or saving my pennies for something brand new like a Crust Lightning Bolt or Black Mountain Road+
Speaking of Schwinn Passages -- here's one I did a few years ago:
DSC02627.jpg by c79murphy, on Flickr
It's 700c, not 650b, but it would have made a nice 650b bike as well. I re-brazed the canti posts to the more modern 80mm spacing, fixed a poor seatstay / lug connection, re-raked the fork for about 40mm trail, and added mid fork lowrider braze-ons. All in all, it rode well -- not quite as sprightly as my Centurion Semi-pros, but still very nice. More of a stable, unflappable feeling, without feeling truck-like or dead. Geometry wise, it was kind of a throwback. 72.5 parallel angles, short top tube (56 or 57cm?? on a 62cm frame) , and lots of tire clearance. I don't think anyone knows exactly what Tenax was, or if it was all the same. There are a few posts floating around from folks at Schwinn that suggest it was Columbus tubing that either wasn't held to quite the same finish standards, or possibly the alloy was a touch off. It's assumed the light race bikes got the equivalent of SL tubing, while touring bikes like the Passage probably got SP or a mix of SP and heavier tubes.
Finally, one more brand to throw out for your search: Sekai. Their top end bikes were made by Miki, the same Japanese producer of the Centurion Semi Pro, Professional, and Pro Tour. The Sekai 4000 was essentially identical to the Semi Pro, and can sometimes be found cheaper. (Look around Seattle, as Sekai was a house brand of a bike store based there.) Also, the Centurion Super Elite in the first 2 years or so was specced almost the same as the Semi Pro, just without all the chrome. A '78-'80 Super Elite would also be a great bike to look for, and they usually go much cheaper.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,990
Bikes: ‘87 Marinoni SLX Sports Tourer, ‘79 Miyata 912 by Gugificazione
Mentioned: 166 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 502 Post(s)
Liked 466 Times
in
256 Posts
Thanks for the suggestions, I've managed to cool my heels and finally convince myself that I'm okay with taking a while to look around to find something that really suits me, so I'll start looking around for the Centurions you mentioned.
I do have an 86 Schwinn Passage frame that I'm trying to decide what to do with, it has almost everything that I'm looking for - 72.5° HT & ST angles and nice looking lugs, but I'm just not terribly thrilled with the super long touring chainstays or the cantilever post placement. I also can't find much info about whether the Tenax tubing on the touring bikes is any different from the rest of the road bike line that Schwinn was producing at the time, so I can't really predict how it will ride unless I build it up complete.
I really am thinking about my next bike being a well equipped 650b all-road/randonneuring bike, but turning the Passage into that would require a lot of brazing and rework, as well as a new fork with 65mm+ of rake to get the trail figures I'm looking for. Currently I'm weighing my options about making those modifications or saving my pennies for something brand new like a Crust Lightning Bolt or Black Mountain Road+
I do have an 86 Schwinn Passage frame that I'm trying to decide what to do with, it has almost everything that I'm looking for - 72.5° HT & ST angles and nice looking lugs, but I'm just not terribly thrilled with the super long touring chainstays or the cantilever post placement. I also can't find much info about whether the Tenax tubing on the touring bikes is any different from the rest of the road bike line that Schwinn was producing at the time, so I can't really predict how it will ride unless I build it up complete.
I really am thinking about my next bike being a well equipped 650b all-road/randonneuring bike, but turning the Passage into that would require a lot of brazing and rework, as well as a new fork with 65mm+ of rake to get the trail figures I'm looking for. Currently I'm weighing my options about making those modifications or saving my pennies for something brand new like a Crust Lightning Bolt or Black Mountain Road+
Mark Guglielmana is a wizard with his torch and fork re-raker, doing just the sort of mods that you described. I’ll let him weigh in on his availability these days.
#20
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 4,129
Bikes: 1975 Motobecane Grand Jubile, 2020 Holdsworth Competition, 2022 Giant Trance 29 3
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3361 Post(s)
Liked 3,638 Times
in
1,244 Posts
Look carefully at the tubing specifications for most of these "new" bikes. I'm afraid most of them are built with oversized tubes, with the same wall thicknesses as older upper-midrange tubesets. The lightning bolt in particular uses Reynolds 853, but in oversized .8/.5/.8. That's going to make it stiffer than your Passage, while being perhaps 50% stronger. (Due to fat Americans, lawyers, and overseas production, new lightweight == yesterday's heavy weight.)
Speaking of Schwinn Passages -- here's one I did a few years ago:
DSC02627.jpg by c79murphy, on Flickr
It's 700c, not 650b, but it would have made a nice 650b bike as well. I re-brazed the canti posts to the more modern 80mm spacing, fixed a poor seatstay / lug connection, re-raked the fork for about 40mm trail, and added mid fork lowrider braze-ons. All in all, it rode well -- not quite as sprightly as my Centurion Semi-pros, but still very nice. More of a stable, unflappable feeling, without feeling truck-like or dead. Geometry wise, it was kind of a throwback. 72.5 parallel angles, short top tube (56 or 57cm?? on a 62cm frame) , and lots of tire clearance. I don't think anyone knows exactly what Tenax was, or if it was all the same. There are a few posts floating around from folks at Schwinn that suggest it was Columbus tubing that either wasn't held to quite the same finish standards, or possibly the alloy was a touch off. It's assumed the light race bikes got the equivalent of SL tubing, while touring bikes like the Passage probably got SP or a mix of SP and heavier tubes.
Finally, one more brand to throw out for your search: Sekai. Their top end bikes were made by Miki, the same Japanese producer of the Centurion Semi Pro, Professional, and Pro Tour. The Sekai 4000 was essentially identical to the Semi Pro, and can sometimes be found cheaper. (Look around Seattle, as Sekai was a house brand of a bike store based there.) Also, the Centurion Super Elite in the first 2 years or so was specced almost the same as the Semi Pro, just without all the chrome. A '78-'80 Super Elite would also be a great bike to look for, and they usually go much cheaper.
Speaking of Schwinn Passages -- here's one I did a few years ago:
DSC02627.jpg by c79murphy, on Flickr
It's 700c, not 650b, but it would have made a nice 650b bike as well. I re-brazed the canti posts to the more modern 80mm spacing, fixed a poor seatstay / lug connection, re-raked the fork for about 40mm trail, and added mid fork lowrider braze-ons. All in all, it rode well -- not quite as sprightly as my Centurion Semi-pros, but still very nice. More of a stable, unflappable feeling, without feeling truck-like or dead. Geometry wise, it was kind of a throwback. 72.5 parallel angles, short top tube (56 or 57cm?? on a 62cm frame) , and lots of tire clearance. I don't think anyone knows exactly what Tenax was, or if it was all the same. There are a few posts floating around from folks at Schwinn that suggest it was Columbus tubing that either wasn't held to quite the same finish standards, or possibly the alloy was a touch off. It's assumed the light race bikes got the equivalent of SL tubing, while touring bikes like the Passage probably got SP or a mix of SP and heavier tubes.
Finally, one more brand to throw out for your search: Sekai. Their top end bikes were made by Miki, the same Japanese producer of the Centurion Semi Pro, Professional, and Pro Tour. The Sekai 4000 was essentially identical to the Semi Pro, and can sometimes be found cheaper. (Look around Seattle, as Sekai was a house brand of a bike store based there.) Also, the Centurion Super Elite in the first 2 years or so was specced almost the same as the Semi Pro, just without all the chrome. A '78-'80 Super Elite would also be a great bike to look for, and they usually go much cheaper.
One leg of the fork on my Passage was bent between the crown and cantilever boss, and while it is straight enough now to ride I think I will pass on having this one re-raked and instead try to find one with a slightly longer axle-to-crown measurement. Hopefully if I can find another fork that has about 5-10mm longer ATC the geometry of the bike will be preserved after re-raking. Not sure what trail figure I will be aiming for, I believe that my Velo Orange sits at 37mm trail, and I don't have any complaints with that.
I'm glad to hear your impressions of the ride quality of the Passage. While I'm not sure if I have ever ridden a really spritely frame, I certainly have ridden a few that feel pretty dead. Unfortunately my Velo Orange fits in that category, which is unfortunate because I love the features and front end geometry. I'm really looking for a solid brevet bike, but hopefully one that doesn't weigh a ton either. I rode the VO on a 100k and that was about the longest I think I would want to ride it.
Calling @gugie!
Mark Guglielmana is a wizard with his torch and fork re-raker, doing just the sort of mods that you described. I’ll let him weigh in on his availability these days.
Not that I wouldn't want a bike to have the full Gugie facelift, I'd just rather not ship when there's another framebuilder at my doorstep!
#21
Bike Butcher of Portland
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 11,639
Bikes: It's complicated.
Mentioned: 1299 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4682 Post(s)
Liked 5,802 Times
in
2,286 Posts
I'm from Portland, OR, where "buy local" means someone in an 8 block radius of your home.
__________________
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
#22
Eccentric Old Man
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: BelleVegas, IL
Posts: 719
Bikes: 1986 Trek 520 Cirrus, 1979 Schwinn Traveler III, Trek T100, 1995 Trek 970, Fuji America
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 248 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 173 Times
in
87 Posts
Plain label Miki built bike.
Tange #5 66 cm seat 58 cm top tube.
Fits 700 x 34 actual with no room for fenders. 584 x 38 with lots of room.
Tange #5 66 cm seat 58 cm top tube.
Fits 700 x 34 actual with no room for fenders. 584 x 38 with lots of room.
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Greenville SC
Posts: 4,129
Bikes: 1975 Motobecane Grand Jubile, 2020 Holdsworth Competition, 2022 Giant Trance 29 3
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3361 Post(s)
Liked 3,638 Times
in
1,244 Posts
Looks like I found what I was looking for in a 1981 Trek 716!
Thanks for all the help and the suggestions, everyone!
Thanks for all the help and the suggestions, everyone!