Sturmey-Archer *rotary* 3-speed popping its actuator spring
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Sturmey-Archer *rotary* 3-speed popping its actuator spring
Before I do the proverbial parts throwing at this bike, I thought I'd see if anyone has seen this before:
I was testing a basically new Sturmey-Archer RXL-RD3 today when I lost gear selection entirely, finding myself stuck in first (not a fun ride back home). This surprised me a bit, for I figured it'd default to third given the return spring of the rotary unit.
I pulled the fulcrum lever, as Sturmey calls it - fairly confusing, given the chain-operated Sturmey fulcrum levers have a completely different purpose to this one - and found the spring in the rotary assembly had slipped. It's a straight offset torsion spring, and the inboard offset had slipped from its slot, allowing the rotating assembly to spin itself and the actuator into first - and stay there.
As designed, the tab of the spring is supposed to stay in place as follows:
So I reassembled the rotary fulcrum and tested it. It worked a few times...and then the spring snapped loose again at full tension.
That's when I gave the rotating unit a closer look. There are some witness marks and gouging from the spring slipping, and it is fairly obvious the spring under torque is probably compressing in width a bit, - but it hasn't been damaged enough that I would expect this difference of tolerance to result in the spring continually popping out of where it's supposed to be. This is, after all, a practically new part.
Any thoughts? Similar experiences? I have three other identical examples sitting here (and a fifth which appears to be slightly older production) and they do not do the same if the fulcrum actuator is tensioned fully (by hand).
-Kurt
I was testing a basically new Sturmey-Archer RXL-RD3 today when I lost gear selection entirely, finding myself stuck in first (not a fun ride back home). This surprised me a bit, for I figured it'd default to third given the return spring of the rotary unit.
I pulled the fulcrum lever, as Sturmey calls it - fairly confusing, given the chain-operated Sturmey fulcrum levers have a completely different purpose to this one - and found the spring in the rotary assembly had slipped. It's a straight offset torsion spring, and the inboard offset had slipped from its slot, allowing the rotating assembly to spin itself and the actuator into first - and stay there.
As designed, the tab of the spring is supposed to stay in place as follows:
So I reassembled the rotary fulcrum and tested it. It worked a few times...and then the spring snapped loose again at full tension.
That's when I gave the rotating unit a closer look. There are some witness marks and gouging from the spring slipping, and it is fairly obvious the spring under torque is probably compressing in width a bit, - but it hasn't been damaged enough that I would expect this difference of tolerance to result in the spring continually popping out of where it's supposed to be. This is, after all, a practically new part.
Any thoughts? Similar experiences? I have three other identical examples sitting here (and a fifth which appears to be slightly older production) and they do not do the same if the fulcrum actuator is tensioned fully (by hand).
-Kurt
Last edited by cudak888; 11-15-20 at 09:59 AM.
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It looks like the hook is too long and or the groove is too shallow.
My first try would be grinding the hook end shorter and squarer.
I don't have one myself.
My first try would be grinding the hook end shorter and squarer.
I don't have one myself.
Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 11-15-20 at 01:23 PM.
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I thought of the other way round (increasing the depth of the groove), but this would cause the spring to poke out and interfere with the rotary actuator on the hub.
-Kurt
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I see what you have in mind. My concern is that the spring needs all the width it can - cutting the tab shorter would allow it to pop out even easier.
I thought of the other way round (increasing the depth of the groove), but this would cause the spring to poke out and interfere with the rotary actuator on the hub.
-Kurt
I thought of the other way round (increasing the depth of the groove), but this would cause the spring to poke out and interfere with the rotary actuator on the hub.
-Kurt
Of course, once the plate has suffered the hole itself may not be square, especially the part of the inner surface where the tab catches; you could try re-drilling the hole at a slight angle to fix that.
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Is it possible that there is too much slop between the two parts that sandwich the spring? If so, perhaps a shim under the c-clip might help.