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Sturmey-Archer *rotary* 3-speed popping its actuator spring

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Sturmey-Archer *rotary* 3-speed popping its actuator spring

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Old 11-14-20, 10:35 PM
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cudak888 
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Sturmey-Archer *rotary* 3-speed popping its actuator spring

Before I do the proverbial parts throwing at this bike, I thought I'd see if anyone has seen this before:

I was testing a basically new Sturmey-Archer RXL-RD3 today when I lost gear selection entirely, finding myself stuck in first (not a fun ride back home). This surprised me a bit, for I figured it'd default to third given the return spring of the rotary unit.



I pulled the fulcrum lever, as Sturmey calls it - fairly confusing, given the chain-operated Sturmey fulcrum levers have a completely different purpose to this one - and found the spring in the rotary assembly had slipped. It's a straight offset torsion spring, and the inboard offset had slipped from its slot, allowing the rotating assembly to spin itself and the actuator into first - and stay there.

As designed, the tab of the spring is supposed to stay in place as follows:



So I reassembled the rotary fulcrum and tested it. It worked a few times...and then the spring snapped loose again at full tension.

That's when I gave the rotating unit a closer look. There are some witness marks and gouging from the spring slipping, and it is fairly obvious the spring under torque is probably compressing in width a bit, - but it hasn't been damaged enough that I would expect this difference of tolerance to result in the spring continually popping out of where it's supposed to be. This is, after all, a practically new part.



Any thoughts? Similar experiences? I have three other identical examples sitting here (and a fifth which appears to be slightly older production) and they do not do the same if the fulcrum actuator is tensioned fully (by hand).

-Kurt
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Old 11-15-20, 10:37 AM
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It looks like the hook is too long and or the groove is too shallow.
My first try would be grinding the hook end shorter and squarer.
I don't have one myself.

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Old 11-15-20, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by GamblerGORD53
It looks like the hook is too long and or the groove is too shallow.
My first try would be grinding the hook end shorter and squarer.
I don't have one myself.
I see what you have in mind. My concern is that the spring needs all the width it can - cutting the tab shorter would allow it to pop out even easier.

I thought of the other way round (increasing the depth of the groove), but this would cause the spring to poke out and interfere with the rotary actuator on the hub.

-Kurt
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Old 12-06-20, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by cudak888
I see what you have in mind. My concern is that the spring needs all the width it can - cutting the tab shorter would allow it to pop out even easier.

I thought of the other way round (increasing the depth of the groove), but this would cause the spring to poke out and interfere with the rotary actuator on the hub.

-Kurt
Try making the hook a little more of an acute angle. The tension on the spring is clearly making the tab "cam" out of the hole - it'll only do that if it is not square to the hole, Set the tab enough further and under tension it'll only go to <90 degrees.

Of course, once the plate has suffered the hole itself may not be square, especially the part of the inner surface where the tab catches; you could try re-drilling the hole at a slight angle to fix that.
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Old 12-07-20, 07:11 AM
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Is it possible that there is too much slop between the two parts that sandwich the spring? If so, perhaps a shim under the c-clip might help.
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