new langster steel! modifications?
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new langster steel! modifications?
[IMG][/IMG]
I'm fairly new to riding, I ride mainly for commuting, about 45 miles per week, and was looking to modify my bike. any suggestions?
I'm fairly new to riding, I ride mainly for commuting, about 45 miles per week, and was looking to modify my bike. any suggestions?
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If it's new why not just try riding it and finding out what you don't like about it.
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wow thanks! this is my first post and you guys are all really helpful well i have been riding this bike about 4 days aweek for the past few weeks and i love it, it is a fixed gear so i was thinking about getting pedal straps.
as for modifications i'll take your opinions on ascetics or functionality
as for modifications i'll take your opinions on ascetics or functionality
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Congrats! I really like the steel langster - been eyeing them for a while.
Not much to change... New pedals and cages/straps? If you're running it fixed, ditch the rear brake?
Stupid aesthetic, but lose the reflectors - get a blinkey-light?
Other than that, enjoy!
Cheers
Not much to change... New pedals and cages/straps? If you're running it fixed, ditch the rear brake?
Stupid aesthetic, but lose the reflectors - get a blinkey-light?
Other than that, enjoy!
Cheers
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Congrats! I really like the steel langster - been eyeing them for a while.
Not much to change... New pedals and cages/straps? If you're running it fixed, ditch the rear brake?
Stupid aesthetic, but lose the reflectors - get a blinkey-light?
Other than that, enjoy!
Cheers
Not much to change... New pedals and cages/straps? If you're running it fixed, ditch the rear brake?
Stupid aesthetic, but lose the reflectors - get a blinkey-light?
Other than that, enjoy!
Cheers
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Functionality: Get some foot retention.
Aesthetics: Lose rear brake and reflectors, also that saddle just looks weird to me. Too clunky for an otherwise sleek-looking bike.
Aesthetics: Lose rear brake and reflectors, also that saddle just looks weird to me. Too clunky for an otherwise sleek-looking bike.
#9
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1> Always take bike portraits with the bike facing left so that the drive train can be seen.
2> If you decide to leave the rear brake (although I don't know why you would as mentioned above), tighten up the line of the rear brake cable. Looks loose and floppy running along the top tube there.
3> Chrome/silver or white brake lever.
4> Chrome/silver pedals...whether or not you get straps/clips.
2> If you decide to leave the rear brake (although I don't know why you would as mentioned above), tighten up the line of the rear brake cable. Looks loose and floppy running along the top tube there.
3> Chrome/silver or white brake lever.
4> Chrome/silver pedals...whether or not you get straps/clips.
#10
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If you start riding more you'll want a better saddle. Most stock saddles suck, but at 45 miles a week you might not notice much
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1> Always take bike portraits with the bike facing left so that the drive train can be seen.
2> If you decide to leave the rear brake (although I don't know why you would as mentioned above), tighten up the line of the rear brake cable. Looks loose and floppy running along the top tube there.
3> Chrome/silver or white brake lever.
4> Chrome/silver pedals...whether or not you get straps/clips.
2> If you decide to leave the rear brake (although I don't know why you would as mentioned above), tighten up the line of the rear brake cable. Looks loose and floppy running along the top tube there.
3> Chrome/silver or white brake lever.
4> Chrome/silver pedals...whether or not you get straps/clips.
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#14
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try some new saddles and maybe some different handle bars. those two things and the already mentioned pedals/clips/straps/clipless. those are probably the most important things to make your own.
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People shouldn't suggest ditching the rear brake if we don't know whether OP even knows how to skid yet . . .
Alternatively, you could just leave the brake.
Alternatively, you could just leave the brake.
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Depends on your budget and your booty.
Front brake + backpedal! I just figured he wasn't likely to flip over the front of his bike haha.
Front brake + backpedal! I just figured he wasn't likely to flip over the front of his bike haha.
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FOOT RETENTION!!!! ahem, after that i would recommend updating those pedals as they appear to be those cheap plastic ones that come on most magnas. next, lose the back brake, you can't REALLY stop with a skid, if you could if would be called a stop not a skid. the fact is when you skid you just slow way down fast, which is what that front brake is for, it won't actually stop you fast enough to save you from a car door. and when you start settling start thinking about how you feel about your gear ratio,according to the specialized website says it's 42x16, which is a good place to start. and as for the seat, when you start riding your ass will hurt at first anyways from your muscles being sore, after that goes away THEN start looking for a new saddle. in other words, riding it till you complain about it, then work on fixing those complaints.
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Realistically, looking at the bike, the first part you should change would be the frame.
It's gotta be either Nagasawa or 3 Rensho.
Next you gotta do something about those wheels, ideally you need a deep rim on the back with a Dura-Ace hub. special points if you get the Special modified version made by Dreamworks in 渋谷 and an aero carbon on the front. HED3 are good because they give you a lotta space for stickers, but if you want, you can go Aerospoke and get it in whatever colour suits your frame (not carbon but proven 100% IED proof, thats why you see the US army humvees rocking them).
After the basics, you will need a set of MKS Sylvian track pedals and Toshi double straps to make sure you stay clipped into them, make sure to get the MKS steel quad gate clips as the alu version bend and snap too easy.
Saddles are very important also. Lucky you can get the San Selle Marco Rolls in a WIDE variety of colours, so it doesn't matter.
The most contentious part is the handlebars. It's probably best to get a few sets, and you can change it up to match your riding preference for the day/fashion attire. Cut down risers, track drops, pursuit bars, chopped and flopped track bars, straight chopped or 箸. As long as either Nitto or NJS are stamped on them, it's all good.
It's gotta be either Nagasawa or 3 Rensho.
Next you gotta do something about those wheels, ideally you need a deep rim on the back with a Dura-Ace hub. special points if you get the Special modified version made by Dreamworks in 渋谷 and an aero carbon on the front. HED3 are good because they give you a lotta space for stickers, but if you want, you can go Aerospoke and get it in whatever colour suits your frame (not carbon but proven 100% IED proof, thats why you see the US army humvees rocking them).
After the basics, you will need a set of MKS Sylvian track pedals and Toshi double straps to make sure you stay clipped into them, make sure to get the MKS steel quad gate clips as the alu version bend and snap too easy.
Saddles are very important also. Lucky you can get the San Selle Marco Rolls in a WIDE variety of colours, so it doesn't matter.
The most contentious part is the handlebars. It's probably best to get a few sets, and you can change it up to match your riding preference for the day/fashion attire. Cut down risers, track drops, pursuit bars, chopped and flopped track bars, straight chopped or 箸. As long as either Nitto or NJS are stamped on them, it's all good.
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But you at least need flashy cranks.
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I guess I have to be more specific for the "Noobs"