zjrog

I have 2 sets of Coda bars, they have the same model number, but the one closest to the camera I took of a 97 Cannondale R300, the others are off my 98 Cannondale R200. I wrecked the R200 8 years ago, and replaced the bars as they looked bent. Kind of hard to imagine bending it that much, but it was a 45 mph crash... Hard to see in this pic, the bottom flats on the drops, don't sit level with each other.

So I'm curious, as an exercise in modifying things, could I bend the already bent bars? With a flare similar to Salsa Woodchippers or Cowchippers?

dsbrantjr

Bending tubing without the proper tooling to prevent collapsing is a challenge, and re-bending aluminum can lead to cracking, which is a really bad thing for bars. I'd strongly advise against it, but if you do make certain your medical and dental insurances are paid up.

3alarmer 

.
...the question you ought to be asking is whether you can safely ride them after you bend them.

WizardOfBoz

You can do anything you want, but the aluminum gets to make it's choice about what IT wants to do, too. If you had access to a heat-treating facility, you could anneal, bend, and re-treat to T6. Bending it in hardened condition? Might work. Might break catastrophically without warning. Worth it?

UKFan4Sure

The short answer is; not safely. I wouldn't do it. Just get an appropriate set of bars and have peace of mind that they won't break at the stress points that were induced.

Miele Man

I can remember a time when riders would insert a 2x4 between the drop of the handlebar and the top and then bend the lower section of the handlebar outwards to mimic the flare in a Randonneur handlebar. many of those modified handlebars broke after some time in use. Bending an alloy handlebar induces a concentrate stress at the point of the bend. When a handlebar breaks it's usually catastrophically and a worst possible time. The result is loss of control of the bicycle and then a nasty crash. If it happens in traffic it can be fatal to the bicyclist. Is it worth that risk to you?

Cheers

zjrog

And that response is enough for me to end this thought process.

Thanks to all!

justcynn

good info, thanks!

Bill in VA

Bravo! But wait, this is BF, you have to argue and resist....

zjrog

HAHAHAAAAA! I already question aluminum strength as a Clyde. 30 years ago I twisted the square taper of a crank arm... I'm not that same beast today... And in my 50s, I prefer not to crash, again...

berner

OK, I'll try. I used to work at a boatyard that built aluminum custom racing sail boats. In fact, all of the America's Cup boats built during the last days during which 12 meter class boats were used were built at that yard, 6 or more boats during about 8 years plus many other boats not of the 12 meter class and all over 45 ft. I'm mostly a wood worker but have some experience with metal. Aluminum will work harden and become brittle. When it does, aluminum and other metals can be softened by annealing with heat. You can look up this process with Google and then decide if you want to try it.

depechegore

spanish my native but here we go: Tensile of alloy dont let you do that if you bent to one position and for some reason you return it while you drive its a sure cracked bars

3alarmer 

...I busted an olde French alloy bar on a Peugeot back in the 70' or 80's. Cracked right next to the stem and dropped on that side. But it did not completely detach at the break, just drooped (a lot)...thus I am here to tell the tale.