Adjusting no-name (Peak?) Disc brake caliper
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,424
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 977 Post(s)
Liked 626 Times
in
400 Posts
Adjusting no-name (Peak?) Disc brake caliper
Hi! Usually I'm on the Classic and Vintage sub-forum. However, a neighbor who helped me with some house wiring asked be to look over a mountain bike he picked up. Immediately I see I need to address the front brake, and I'd have no problem if the brake said MAFAC or Campagnolo Record on it.
However, it says nothing. And it's a disc brake to boot. I found the name Peak on the levers and on the convention rim caliper on the rear. The first thing I found was the brake is dragging on the rotor a lot. The hub-side pad is dragging, but the fork side pad is far away from the rotor. So, is there a way to center the caliper over the rotor? I see a few spots for Allen keys but, before I indiscriminately start changing things, I would not mind guidance on how to adjust the brake. Lever & cable do not seem to bind, I do not think I need to "go deep" into this brake, just adjust it.
However, it says nothing. And it's a disc brake to boot. I found the name Peak on the levers and on the convention rim caliper on the rear. The first thing I found was the brake is dragging on the rotor a lot. The hub-side pad is dragging, but the fork side pad is far away from the rotor. So, is there a way to center the caliper over the rotor? I see a few spots for Allen keys but, before I indiscriminately start changing things, I would not mind guidance on how to adjust the brake. Lever & cable do not seem to bind, I do not think I need to "go deep" into this brake, just adjust it.
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,056
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4195 Post(s)
Liked 3,837 Times
in
2,295 Posts
Most all disk calipers have slotted mounting holes allowing the caliper to be positioned side to side WRT the disk. Your caliper is a close copy of an Avid BB5 with it's concave/convex mounting washers. and one adjustable pad. The spherical washers allow angular alignment so the pads and rotor are in parallel planes. If the pads contact the rotor flat these washers need to remain as they are. If the pads contact the rotor at an angle (like a toe in/out with rim brakes) then the caliper will want to be angularly repositioned.
I usually will slightly loosen one mounting bolt slightly and the other a lot. The slightly loosened bolt acts as a pivot while maintaining the caliper's angular relationship (to the rotor) but allow the caliper to swing in/out. Then snugging down the fully loos bolt and loosening the previously snug one will let the caliper swing it's other end over and, again, maintain the angle WRT the rotor. With the hub side pad being non moving (but adjustable within the caliper) I aim for it to barely clear the rotor. the moving pad gets located by cable tension.
I strongly suggest that you check the rotor mounting bolts for their tightness, the rotor for any wobbles (which like an untrue rim will hinder best performance) and make surte those axle nuts are kept tight. Disk brakes produce a force on the hub that wants to push the axle out of the drop out, Not a good thing when riding. The photos show that the axle retaining washers with their tabs are missing. Without this tab in hole back up all that keep the front wheel in the fork while braking is the nuts.
There are many on line vids and fuller instructions for the searching. The Park Blue Book is a great first resource for this kind of instructions. Andy
I usually will slightly loosen one mounting bolt slightly and the other a lot. The slightly loosened bolt acts as a pivot while maintaining the caliper's angular relationship (to the rotor) but allow the caliper to swing in/out. Then snugging down the fully loos bolt and loosening the previously snug one will let the caliper swing it's other end over and, again, maintain the angle WRT the rotor. With the hub side pad being non moving (but adjustable within the caliper) I aim for it to barely clear the rotor. the moving pad gets located by cable tension.
I strongly suggest that you check the rotor mounting bolts for their tightness, the rotor for any wobbles (which like an untrue rim will hinder best performance) and make surte those axle nuts are kept tight. Disk brakes produce a force on the hub that wants to push the axle out of the drop out, Not a good thing when riding. The photos show that the axle retaining washers with their tabs are missing. Without this tab in hole back up all that keep the front wheel in the fork while braking is the nuts.
There are many on line vids and fuller instructions for the searching. The Park Blue Book is a great first resource for this kind of instructions. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,424
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 977 Post(s)
Liked 626 Times
in
400 Posts
Most all disk calipers have slotted mounting holes allowing the caliper to be positioned side to side WRT the disk. Your caliper is a close copy of an Avid BB5 with it's concave/convex mounting washers. and one adjustable pad. The spherical washers allow angular alignment so the pads and rotor are in parallel planes. If the pads contact the rotor flat these washers need to remain as they are. If the pads contact the rotor at an angle (like a toe in/out with rim brakes) then the caliper will want to be angularly repositioned. I usually will slightly loosen one mounting bolt slightly and the other a lot. The slightly loosened bolt acts as a pivot while maintaining the caliper's angular relationship (to the rotor) but allow the caliper to swing in/out. Then snugging down the fully loos bolt and loosening the previously snug one will let the caliper swing it's other end over and, again, maintain the angle WRT the rotor. With the hub side pad being non moving (but adjustable within the caliper) I aim for it to barely clear the rotor. the moving pad gets located by cable tension.
Roughly how much "free play" in the cable is common on these brakes?
I strongly suggest that you check the rotor mounting bolts for their tightness, the rotor for any wobbles (which like an untrue rim will hinder best performance) and make surte those axle nuts are kept tight. Disk brakes produce a force on the hub that wants to push the axle out of the drop out, Not a good thing when riding. The photos show that the axle retaining washers with their tabs are missing. Without this tab in hole back up all that keep the front wheel in the fork while braking is the nuts. There are many on line vids and fuller instructions for the searching. The Park Blue Book is a great first resource for this kind of instructions. Andy
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,056
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4195 Post(s)
Liked 3,837 Times
in
2,295 Posts
Free play- If you mean how far the lever is pulled before the pads begin to contact the rotor...That's determined by the pad clearance WRT the rotor and the lever/caliper relative leverages. The less lever pull wanted means less pad clearance. At some point the pads rub all the time and most will not want that.
If you mean that the cable is slack and the initial lever pull does not make the pad move then zero free play. Generally you want the pad to move right away, when pulling on the lever. The caliper, and likely the lever, has a barrel adjuster to fine tune the cable tension and the lever pull amount before pad contact. Andy
If you mean that the cable is slack and the initial lever pull does not make the pad move then zero free play. Generally you want the pad to move right away, when pulling on the lever. The caliper, and likely the lever, has a barrel adjuster to fine tune the cable tension and the lever pull amount before pad contact. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,424
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 977 Post(s)
Liked 626 Times
in
400 Posts
Again, thanks.
Well, after 8 or 9 attempts, I think I have the caliper centered over the rotor. Fiddly; I don't ever want to hear someone complaining about adjusting MAFAC brakes ever again!
Alas, this means that now the rotor faintly drags against the hub-side pad for part of the rotation, and the fork-side pad for another part. Yes, that's right, the rotor is not 100% straight. How do you true a rotor? Rubber mallet?
Well, after 8 or 9 attempts, I think I have the caliper centered over the rotor. Fiddly; I don't ever want to hear someone complaining about adjusting MAFAC brakes ever again!
Alas, this means that now the rotor faintly drags against the hub-side pad for part of the rotation, and the fork-side pad for another part. Yes, that's right, the rotor is not 100% straight. How do you true a rotor? Rubber mallet?
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,056
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4195 Post(s)
Liked 3,837 Times
in
2,295 Posts
I prefer using pry tools and not impact ones. The rotor is thin enough so it will easily bend and impacts are rather challenging to control. The industry offers various "disk truing tools" that are just a strip/bar of, usually, steel with a thin slot cut in it. The slot will slide over the rotor and grip it so the bar/lever can manipulate the rotor back and forth. 6 or 8" adjustable wrenches do much the same. You can place the wrench(s) over the rotor's outer edge or onto one of the "spider arms" extending from the hub. When doing this for the first time go slow and learn how much tool movement equates with how much rotor change. Do clean the wrench jaws as rotors and pads dislike contaminates, like oils. Thus never spray lube your chain if you have a rear disk brake. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#7
Generally bewildered
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Eastern PA, USA
Posts: 3,037
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 6.9, 1999 LeMond Zurich, 1978 Schwinn Superior
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1152 Post(s)
Liked 341 Times
in
251 Posts
There are tools available to bend rotors (see below - no experience with that specific one, it's just a "fer instance"). Although I do agree with Andrew: a "fine adjustment tool" (aka mallet) is not the tool for a rotor.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,056
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4195 Post(s)
Liked 3,837 Times
in
2,295 Posts
Never saw a disk truing fork with the slot lengths indicated on it. Maybe mine are now obsolete Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,424
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 977 Post(s)
Liked 626 Times
in
400 Posts
I prefer using pry tools and not impact ones. The rotor is thin enough so it will easily bend and impacts are rather challenging to control. The industry offers various "disk truing tools" that are just a strip/bar of, usually, steel with a thin slot cut in it. The slot will slide over the rotor and grip it so the bar/lever can manipulate the rotor back and forth. 6 or 8" adjustable wrenches do much the same. You can place the wrench(s) over the rotor's outer edge or onto one of the "spider arms" extending from the hub. When doing this for the first time go slow and learn how much tool movement equates with how much rotor change. Do clean the wrench jaws as rotors and pads dislike contaminates, like oils. Thus never spray lube your chain if you have a rear disk brake. Andy
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 712
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 283 Post(s)
Liked 262 Times
in
164 Posts
It looks similar to a Tektro Aquila
https://www.tektro.com/upload/Produc...15859uWPB9.PDF
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Izdxs0ighIMhoL
https://www.tektro.com/upload/Produc...15859uWPB9.PDF
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Izdxs0ighIMhoL
Last edited by grizzly59; 03-20-20 at 05:02 PM.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,424
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 977 Post(s)
Liked 626 Times
in
400 Posts
I got it kinda close, it does not drag now. Also watched video on the rear brake, apparently they are called "linear pull" and got that working. It shifts OK but I found 3/4" (NOT A TYPO) side play in the bottom bracket, that comes apart next, presuming it does come apart. Trying to get it roadworthy for zero dollars -- wish me luck!
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,056
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4195 Post(s)
Liked 3,837 Times
in
2,295 Posts
Good job.
With that mush play in the BB a replacement BB is likely the best long term solution. While not hard to replace there's, of course, a few details and tools that you'll need. Andy
With that mush play in the BB a replacement BB is likely the best long term solution. While not hard to replace there's, of course, a few details and tools that you'll need. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#13
Newbie
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Free play- If you mean how far the lever is pulled before the pads begin to contact the rotor...That's determined by the pad clearance WRT the rotor and the lever/caliper relative leverages. The less lever pull wanted means less pad clearance. At some point the pads rub all the time and most will not want that.
btw, these brakes came on a bike that was internet purchased for $200 US. Frame is labeled Tanwyn. These brakes are likely cheap knockoffs of a real design.
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,424
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 977 Post(s)
Liked 626 Times
in
400 Posts
Maybe someday I'll have my own set of discs. Just Wednesday I had to listen to an old friend who has long since "gone carbon" who went on a tirade about how behind the times I am because I do not have a carbon frame, electric derailleurs and hydraulic brakes.
I'm still faster than him so...
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 3,893
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1062 Post(s)
Liked 665 Times
in
421 Posts
Thanks for that. I "finished" the bike and gave it back to the neighbor a year ago; need to follow up and see if he kept it and rides it, or he sold it at a yard sale, or whatever.
Maybe someday I'll have my own set of discs. Just Wednesday I had to listen to an old friend who has long since "gone carbon" who went on a tirade about how behind the times I am because I do not have a carbon frame, electric derailleurs and hydraulic brakes.
I'm still faster than him so...
Maybe someday I'll have my own set of discs. Just Wednesday I had to listen to an old friend who has long since "gone carbon" who went on a tirade about how behind the times I am because I do not have a carbon frame, electric derailleurs and hydraulic brakes.
I'm still faster than him so...
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Maryland, USA
Posts: 2,424
Bikes: Drysdale/Gitane/Zeus/Masi/Falcon/Palo Alto/Raleigh/Legnano
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 977 Post(s)
Liked 626 Times
in
400 Posts
Fair enough! That said, a high % of my objections to modern tech are aesthetic; not that I am in the market for more bikes, but some of the early straight-tubes-with-lugs carbon fiber frames have appeal for me.
__________________
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Larry:1958 Drysdale, 1961 Gitane Gran Sport, 1974 Zeus track, 1988 Masi Gran Corsa, 1974 Falcon, 1980 Palo Alto, 1973 Raleigh Gran Sport, 1974 Legnano. Susan: 1976 Windsor Profesional.
Likes For tiger1964: