seypat

Some black.

RobbieTunes

I always liked yours. Still do. Straight-up bike, right there.

seypat

I will mention the gearing so people will know what the stock derailleurs will do. That is a 52/42/30 crankset. The cluster is a 12-28 7 speed. The stock RD has no problem with that setup. It will not do a 30T. The upper jockey wheel makes contact with a 30 cog. Go to a Deore if you need a 30+ in the back. The stock FD will not move in far enough to shift a 3rd ring. But the 600 will. That front/rear gearing combo is hard to beat. Lots of range. 2T jumps through the 18T, then 2 3Ts and a 4T jump. Lots of options.

canklecat

Freewheel or cassette? If freewheel, which brand? I haven't found any 12-28 on the SunRace site.

Currently I'm using a 50/39 chainring combo and 13-25 SunRace freewheel. Not bad overall on normal days.

Sunday was windy and I wanted to tackle some PRs. I got my PR on a tough climb (and best of 2019, for what little that means -- it's still two minutes slower than the KOM). And nearly beat my number 2 spot just a few seconds behind the KOM on a fast downhill.

But I had to tackle a 2.25 mile climb into a 20 mph gusty headwind twice to tackle that downhill. That was a chore with a 39/25 climbing gear combo, tho not as awful as the original 42/24.

Both efforts showed some shortcomings in my current gearing. With the 50/13 combo I was spun out at 130-140 rpm, 40 mph. I could usually get a little more top end with the old 52/13 gearing. Being nearly spun out at 40 mph downhill is... exciting. If by exciting I mean almost terrifying. Which I might. I'm not as steady at high rpms as I could be. Around 110, I'm still stable. So I'm thinking a 12 cog might help, since I like the ramped and pinned Vuelta SE Plus 50T -- smoother shifting.

And on the climbs the 39/25 was a real chore -- didn't leave much quad/hamstring in the bank for the other PR attempts. I had a SunRace 14-28 freewheel on the Ironman for awhile and the 39/28 combo felt fine on our climbs, even with some headwind. But the 14 cog rubbed the Ironman's chainstay dropouts, just enough to scrape the paint.

I suppose eventually I'll consider a new wheelset and cassette. Easier to find a good gear range for these aging legs. I recently updated my old Univega from 13-28 7-speed cassette to 12-32 8-speed. Wasn't difficult with the right wheel/hub. And the bigger cog really helps on climbs.

rccardr 

Sachs made a super nice 12-28 7 speed freewheel. I have one on my Bottecchia record.

seypat

Shimano HG70 cassette. I think there are plenty of 11-28 7 speed freewheels out there.

seypat

One of those is on the Bay right now for $60 OBO. There is also a 12-26 for $19.99. The 12-26 and a smaller 2nd ring might work well for canklecat. There are 2 12-26 on the Bay. The $19.99 is preowned. The other is new for $35.

canklecat

Thanks. Those Sachs freewheels would probably do fine on a friction shift setup.

I'm reluctant to spend much on a freewheel because the Suntour GPX Accu***** system is so finicky. I've got it working almost perfectly now after much cussing and fussing, with a SunRace 13-25 chromed 7-speed freewheel. It shifts nicer than the original Suntour 13-24 Alpha.

I might try a chromed SunRace 13-28 if I can find one. The closest I could find on Amazon was the SunRace blued carbon steel 14-28, which was really intended as a replacement for the Shimano MegaRange models for low end MTB/hybrids and comfort cruisers. It's certainly better than those Shimanos -- the MegaRange tend to cause skipping with anything other than a narrow chain, while the SunRace works with most chains. But that particular 14-28 SunRace had a slightly loose bearing fit and the clinking BBs bothered me. So I moved it over to my Globe Carmel errand bike. The 14 tooth smallest cog forced the chain to rub slightly against the Ironman's dropout, scraping some paint. If I set the wheel in the dropout to avoid scraping, it wouldn't shift reliably in index mode. But a 13-28 should be okay.

xn7

Not sure if I got to this one just in time or too late. I was passing the area to visit my brother's family so dropped by and picked it up with my gf. Way too big of a frame for me, a nasty rusted/spot on the top tube and best of all a stuck seat post. Rims are garbage as well. Apparently the guy I got it from was the original owner.

RobbieTunes

Well, I'm glad you rescued it.
That is one rigged setup.
Deal4Fuji can ride that size, maybe he'd be interested.

It's a challenge for anyone, but he knows a real expert.

Again, it's in better hands. Good for you.

fleslider 

a tetnus shot, wax and some elbow grease, it would be .. ok.

what size is the frame looks to be 64-62cm?

xn7

hopefully


64cm seat tube with a 58.5cm top tube

texaspandj

Whoo! That's gonna need some work.
The shifters, brake calipers, front derailleur,crankset, and headset are original...oh and most likely the seatpost.

Speaking of work, my wife finally went back today afte a two week vacation. And I'm finally healed enough to start working out again. Also I have two Ironman projects waiting for me.
1. Returning the oem components back to my Miami Vice. But before I do I'm thinking of clear coating it... well see.
2. Which will be first, is installing 8 speed gripshift on my Carbon Ironman. The problem with gripshift is they come for campy, shimano, and suntour and I don't know which one mine are for. I'll install and hope for the best.
I've done this a time or two so that means it's relatively simple. The only problem you'll likely to encounter is the gripshift diameter is too small to fit my aero bars. So I have remove the metal ring with the allen bolt to make it fit. Unfortunately after removing the metal ring the allen bolt won't hold well so then I have to use washers and a pan head sheet metal screw to hold the gripshift in place.
Something like these pics show.
To clear or not.


Finally, gripshift for the carbon.


Disassembled gripshift.


Metal piece had to be removed to fit on my style aerobars.
​​​​​​​

Oldbikeride

I believe that a real bike person never gets tired of looking at bike photos more than once. I think it's great that you love to show off your bike.

markwesti

tex , is this the part you need bigger ? If so how much ?

seypat

So true! I always go to the first page and look at first bike posted. The one with the lime bar tape.

texaspandj

Thus much Markwesti.


I could cut here but that steel is hard.


This is what I normally do.
​​​​​​​Well Mark, ALOT.

markwesti

PM sent tex . mw

RobbieTunes

I miss @frantik. Cool cat.

texaspandj

Well I've installed the 8 speed gripshift. And it doesn't shift perfect, so guessing it's not made for modern shimano 8 speed cassette. Maybe old style dura ace or campy or suntour, I'm not sure which ones have different pull ratios than modern shimano 8 speed. So when I say modern I mean any shimano 8 speed other than the dura ace (I'm using a tricolor 8 speed cassette).
On another related subject, it seems to me as long as any "modern" rear derailleur has enough lateral movement it shouldn't really matter, and that how much a RD moves is determined by the shifters. Case in point is these grip shifts, they have internal indentions much like stairs, so each time you twist it shifts and each step determines how much the RD moves. So it can move 4.5 or 5 or whatever (I'm not familiar with that).
Bottom line I can go from smallest cog (sprocket) three times then and the fourth shift it needs a little nudging to go to the next one then shifts fine til the biggest cog (sprocket) then it won't shift it makes a racket like it wants to shift but wont.
So I doubt I'll keep these on here but we'll see.
​​​​​​​Later Irongents. Oh and also @rccardr
The front derailleur has slot options for two or three speed. I tried the two speed and it Would not work it just didn't have enough pull to make it to the big ring. (That may be a clue as to what components these were made for, I mean super short throw). So I just used the three ring version.

rccardr 

RobbieTunes

+1


Different RD's move different distances given the same length of cable pull.

Almost every Gripshift I've seen was easily able to shift whatever 7sp or 8sp I mated up with it, which was always Shimano. Heck, I think there was a Barbie bike with 7sp Gripshift.

I'd check the RD for "catches" due to grit or grease or cable routing, etc. A lot of them catch right at the first cog, you adjust for it, only to pay the price farther up the cassette/freewheel.

Gripshifts are susceptible to cable creep, so my advice, poorly earned and given, would be to set it right on the "edge" from outermost cog to next one, and let it "catch up" as the cable wraps a bit.

seypat

Here's some questions for the thread. Anyone ever seen a bike with drop in handlebars and barcons? Or how about drop ins with STIs or Campy Ergos on the drop ins? The Suntour vs Fingertip thread got me thinking about that.

RobbieTunes

I don't even know what drop-ins are, other than relatives who know you'd not be home if they called ahead.

seypat

I had to look up the name myself. It's the Scott tri bars that make another 90 at the drops and extend towards each other.