Reusable master link for SRAM 10 speed chains
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Reusable master link for SRAM 10 speed chains
Are there any reusable (install and remove) master links available for SRAM's line of 10 speed chains (PC 1090R, 1090, 1070)? The PowerLock link that comes with these chains is one-time use only.
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I suspect SRAM and Wipperman would both officially say no to this, but I think the ten speed Wipperman Connex link would probably work fine, and it's reusable. I'm running one on a Campy 10 speed chain, and after several hundred miles, no problems whatsoever. In the instructions, both Campy and Wipperman say only use their connectors with their chains-
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https://www.parktool.com/products/det...t=5&item=MLP-1
It is completely reusable.
What I've heard is that they made it "non-reusable" to avoid paying patent royalties to Superlink.
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And SRAM instructions for their 9s links claim they won't work with other brand chains, but I have thousands of trouble-free miles with SRAM 9s links on Shimano chains. I switched to SRAM links after the newer Superlinks started wearing out in a couple hundred miles.
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Using Park's MLP-1 pliers is worth trying I guess.
From VeloNews:
"The PowerChain has hollow pins, and, like other SRAM chains, a master link, but in this case, the new PowerLock link is not removable. Pippin credits an engineer in SRAM’s Portugal facility for coming up with PowerLock and says, “the linking system is always the weakest link, but our 9-speed PowerLink is as strong as the surrounding links. We wanted to do the same with the connector link in our 10-speed chain, but because of the constraints of the narrow chain, we made it a permanent connection.”
I was under the impression that narrowness might be a factor here. SRAM's are 5.9mm wide.
From VeloNews:
"The PowerChain has hollow pins, and, like other SRAM chains, a master link, but in this case, the new PowerLock link is not removable. Pippin credits an engineer in SRAM’s Portugal facility for coming up with PowerLock and says, “the linking system is always the weakest link, but our 9-speed PowerLink is as strong as the surrounding links. We wanted to do the same with the connector link in our 10-speed chain, but because of the constraints of the narrow chain, we made it a permanent connection.”
I was under the impression that narrowness might be a factor here. SRAM's are 5.9mm wide.
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I've been running a PC-1090R on a Campy Centaur 10s system since last spring. It gets ridden about 400 miles/month. I take the chain off (using Park MLP-1) for cleaning/lubing about once a month. No problems at all. And the SRAM chain works a *lot* better than the Wippermann I I had on for the first couple hundred miles.
#8
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There are three links that will fit a SRAM 10 or Campy UN chain properly, the Forster Superlink model 4, the Wipperman connex link in the 10S1 model that is no longer made, or the special version of the KMC missing link made for the Campy UN chain.
Shimano and KMC chains are wider across the inner plates and need a different connecting link. The KMC missing link that fits KMC chains will fit Shimano also. The current Wipperman connex link, marked 10 SPEED will also fit these two chains.
A proper fit is achieved when the clearance between the inner and outer plates is in the .1-.2mm or .004-.008 inch range.
Shimano and KMC chains are wider across the inner plates and need a different connecting link. The KMC missing link that fits KMC chains will fit Shimano also. The current Wipperman connex link, marked 10 SPEED will also fit these two chains.
A proper fit is achieved when the clearance between the inner and outer plates is in the .1-.2mm or .004-.008 inch range.
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Shimano and KMC chains are wider across the inner plates and need a different connecting link. The KMC missing link that fits KMC chains will fit Shimano also. The current Wipperman connex link, marked 10 SPEED will also fit these two chains.
A proper fit is achieved when the clearance between the inner and outer plates is in the .1-.2mm or .004-.008 inch range.
A proper fit is achieved when the clearance between the inner and outer plates is in the .1-.2mm or .004-.008 inch range.
#10
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The only problem that you can run into, is virtually zero clearance if you put a 10S1 link on a Shimano, KMC or original Campy 10 chain. With no side clearance, some people have popped the head off the pins.
Use a feeler gage between the inner and outer links. As I said before, normal clearance is in the .004-.008 inch range. If you measure a chain that is very worn, you might find that clearance increased to .013 inch. A mismatched link may have even more than .013 inch of clerance.
Forster sells 10 speed Superlinks in the wider model 3 and narrower model 4 for a reason - to produce the proper fit.
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Normal Pliers for SRAM?
Single use link?
Another Park TOOL?
I'm in a dead panic.
I've been using normal pliers on these links. Bend the chain 90 degrees twice at the powerlink and squeezing the link softly at a diagonal across the link so the ends of the link slip together. Together and apart as many times as I want.
Same for SRAM chains for years.
Am I doing something wrong here?
Is something going to happen to me?
Another Park TOOL?
I'm in a dead panic.
I've been using normal pliers on these links. Bend the chain 90 degrees twice at the powerlink and squeezing the link softly at a diagonal across the link so the ends of the link slip together. Together and apart as many times as I want.
Same for SRAM chains for years.
Am I doing something wrong here?
Is something going to happen to me?
#12
Senior Member
Single use link?
Another Park TOOL?
I'm in a dead panic.
I've been using normal pliers on these links. Bend the chain 90 degrees twice at the powerlink and squeezing the link softly at a diagonal across the link so the ends of the link slip together. Together and apart as many times as I want.
Same for SRAM chains for years.
Am I doing something wrong here?
Is something going to happen to me?
Another Park TOOL?
I'm in a dead panic.
I've been using normal pliers on these links. Bend the chain 90 degrees twice at the powerlink and squeezing the link softly at a diagonal across the link so the ends of the link slip together. Together and apart as many times as I want.
Same for SRAM chains for years.
Am I doing something wrong here?
Is something going to happen to me?
The narrow pliers allow the rollers to be squeezed together, easily releasing most links. I've ground down the tips of needle nose pliers to do the same thing.