Alzerbster

Hi Everyone, I'm new to the forum, and am new to the world of bike riding. I am going to be retired in two weeks, and have decided that one of my new hobby's is going to be biking. I have a couple rail trails within a few miles of my home, which consist of some pavement, and some crushed limestone. I really haven't visited a bike shop yet. I have just been looking online, and the choices are overwhelming. So my question is, what kind of bike should I get? A road bike, a hybrid, or something else. My price range will probably be in the $700 to $1200 range. Right now I would guess most of my riding will be on rail trails, which I think most of them have pavement and crushed limestone. I'm from Pa., where there are a number of rail trails in my area. When I first started looking I thought that a road bike would suit me best, but now I'm not sure. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

FrenchFit 

Well, I doubt this is what you wanted to hear, but -

You need to discover your likes and dislikes. Get a cheap bike off of CL for a few hundred, and/or borrow another, some bike shops are big on rentals, develop your own opinions from some first person perspective, and then ride with a group, ask others what they like and dislike about their bikes and why.

Personally, I think the 'one bike that does everything' pursuit ends with your riding a bike that does no one thing particularly well, so it's all a give and take.

Helderberg

FrenchFit pretty much nailed it. I was not supposed to be able to ever ride again after back surgery. When I retired 5 years ago I bought a $40.00 Schwinn that needed $60.00 worth of parts but it showed me I could get back on a bike so I have since bought two better bikes and ride every day I can. Go to a place that rents bikes and start out on something like a flat bar hybrid and then work from there. Getting on a race geometry frame may be a bad experience but building up to it might be just what you need to do.
You want to put about half an hour of riding to get a decent idea what it feels like to your body. Then, when you know what you don't want come back and someone here much wiser that I will be able to help you narrow it down.
Be safe, Frank.

EGBigelo

Getting a used bike is usually an exercise in frustration. Especially from Craigslist.

Find a local bike shop and rent a bike for a day. Take it on the trails you plan to ride, and anywhere else. Or rent two different bikes for half a day each.

AU Tiger

Congrats on the retirement! I'm in central PA, and you're right - we have a nice selection of trail trails here. Biking is a great way to enjoy them.

As far as what type of bike to get, I would think you'd be looking at three different categories:

* Fitness bike, which is a type of hybrid without a suspension fork. If you're just planning to do typical rail trails and the like, I doubt you really need the suspension fork, though they can smooth out bumps if that's an issue for you. This type of bike is equally good on trails and on the road... good for short rides of a few miles or longer ones of 30+ miles. Examples of this include Giant Escape, Trek FX, Fuji Absolute, etc.

* Comfort bike, which gives you a more relaxed (upright) position compared to a fitness bike and can come with or without a suspension fork. I usually think of these as suited more for a leisurely pace, but also for folks whose backs really don't like being hunched over at all. Examples of this include Giant Cypress, Trek Verve, Fuji Crosstown, etc.

* Gravel bike, if you prefer drop bars instead of flat bars. While they have a little more aggressive (leaned forward) geometry than a fitness bike, they aren't as aggressive as a traditional road bike. And they accommodate wider tires than road bikes, which makes for more comfortable riding. They will cost a good bit more than a hybrid, but you could easily find one in the price range you stated. Examples include Fuji Jari, Jamis Renegade, Cannondale Topstone, and Giant Toughroad GX.

I understand why people suggest buying used, but I just don't agree. I think having a new bike that fits right and has everything in good working order is a huge incentive to keep getting on it and riding. Plus, being able to try out a variety of bikes one after another in a bike store (preferably one located in a place where you get a good test ride) is a huge advantage. I would start by trying a fitness bike. Then if you feel like you want more relaxed or more aggressive geometry, go to either a comfort or a gravel bike. Or maybe you'll find you want a suspension fork. In any case, a bike shop will have all types available to try in one place, without driving all over looking at five different used bikes hoping to find one that suits you.

One more thing. I would avoid the bottom tier of most lines of bikes... the ones with 3x7 gearing and Tourney level components. I'm not convinced that the top-tier stuff is worth it, but I would at least get an 8-speed freehub cassette (not a freewheel) and Altus or higher components. (This is for fitness and comfort bikes. Gravel bikes use road bike components, and I'm not as familiar with those.)

Most of all, get something you'll feel comfortable on and enjoy riding!

Alzerbster

Thank you for the replies, and AU thank you for the congrats. I am looking forward to being retired. I'm from western PA, about 30 miles east of Pittsburgh. I' am pretty new to the new modern bikes in the market, all the options, and all the different makes. I rode a single speed Schwinn as a kid, and later in life i had a $200 bike i bought at Walmart. Rode it a little while and gave it to my daughter-in-law. That was about 20 years ago. So I think I will have to ride a couple different bikes to see what I do like. Everyone is different, but I don't think I want to go the used bike route. I never liked to buy used cars either, but that is just me. I do like the idea of one of the fitness bikes.
Just for instance is the Trek FX4 with the bit lighter frame, and Tiagra components worth the extra cost over the FX3? Thats probably a dumb question, like asking if the Subaru STI is worth the extra cost over the WRX. Guess what I'm asking is would I notice much difference riding the FX4 compared to the FX3? I notice other makes of bikes have what look to be the same frame,with better drive-train components, along with an increase in price.

AU Tiger

In the FX line, I think the FX 3 Disc hits the sweet spot. The carbon fork will help dampen vibrations. The 9-speed Acera/Alivio drive train is a step up from the 8-speed Tourney/Acera on the FX 2 Disc. The rims are tubeless-tire-ready if you ever decide you want those. Hydraulic brakes are much better than rim brakes in my experience (I have rim brakes on one bike and hydraulic disc brakes on another). The front hub has a thru-axle, which should help with disc alignment when you take the wheel off/on (not sure about the rear, though - it only lists the front). Overall, the FX 3 Disc is a really nice bike! The FX Sport 4 is better, but probably not in ways that would really matter for the riding you plan to do... certainly not $370 worth of difference.

Alzerbster

Okay thank you for all your input, and I'll certainly take it into consideration.

fat2fit

Hey there,

Like you I haven't rode in YEARS. It was probably a solid 15+ years the last time I threw my leg over a bicycle before just buying one recently. I wasn't sure what kind of bike I wanted either, and I've had 2 bikes for a brief moment before landing on my current bike which I love. Hopefully my reply will save you some trouble like I had.

Find out what you want to do. I walked into my local bike shop and said "I'm looking for a bike that can cruise around town but also hit some mountain bike trails" - this was a mistake on my part. I didn't realize what I was saying when I said "mountain bike". The shop guy directed me to an entry level ($700) mountain bike and I bought it. I did take it out on real mountain bike trails before absolutely destroying it because it was too cheap of a bike for the trails we have around our area. It sucked on pavement because of the knobby tires, and no lock-out suspension. I quickly realized that I would need to spend thousands for a real, full suspension mountain bike if that's a path I wanted to pursue...that wasn't the case, I just wanted a QUALITY bike to ride around town and something that will last me forever (Rather than a cheap walmart bike). I was willing to spend upwards to $1000, but that was it. By the time you account for helmet, gear, light, etc - you're adding $200 on top of the bike cost so keep that in mind when doing your budget for the bike.

The bike didn't last long before I traded it to a local rider for a carbon race bike (Road Bike). The carbon bike was defenitly light, fast, but very uncomfortable. The seat position was very aggressive, the tires were very narrow and hard, the ride sucked. While the speed was great, it still wasn't what I was looking for.

I went back to my local bike shop, rode a few "hybird" bikes. I tried the Trek FX3 at first because it was a road type bike with a rigid fork and narrower tires than mountain bike tires. It rode okay, but it wasn't the most comfortable. I rode a Trek Dual Sport 2 (the bike I own now), and it was exactly what I wanted. The fork did have suspension for the rough areas around where I live, fire roads, rail road roads/etc. It was good for all types of "light" trails, but also cruised very good on pavement because of the front fork locking out. Unlike the FX3, it also fits wider tires so you can really get some good rolling tires if you wish. The bike is exactly what I wanted in comfort too with a up-right riding postion, flat handlebars, and it feels like quality.

I believe the Dual Sport 2 starts at just under $700 USD, I did a straight trade from my road bike but the retail sticker was $780 Canadian, so around $650 USD. The Dual Sport 2 features all the things you need, disc breaks, internal cable routing, comfortable saddle, etc. The only difference between the Dual Sport 2 and the higher models would be the components themselves. For casual riding purposes I found this to be a complete waste of money as this bike shifts just fine and I don't need race-type components. Hell, I don't even move out of the middle chainring (up front). I can stay in the 2nd chainring and just shift through the rear cassette and it offers all the gearing I need for riding around town.

Good luck

Alzerbster

So I ended up getting a bike. It wasn't what I set out to get, but I'm happy with it, I think. I had my mind set on an FX3 or FX4, or a Dual Sport 2 or 3. So I went to one of the only Trek dealers in my area. In this same town there was a Cannondale/Giant dealer a stones throw away from the Trek dealer. Before I went I called a friend of mine that I see maybe once a year, and who rides a lot, and probably has 5 to 7K in his bike. I asked him suggestions on what I should get. From what I get from him, every bike ride he goes on with his group of guys. It sounds like its a bike race instead of a ride. He told me to get nothing less than Shimano 105 derailleurs.He said I should be able to find a bike in my price range of $1000 with Shimano 105 derailleurs. Well I never saw a bike in that price range with those deraileurs. He also told me to get hydralic disc brakes. Went to a couple local bike dealers, that either had $400 bikes or $2000 bikes.
So I went to the Trek dealer, and they had no Dual sports of any kind, and no FX's of any kind. the owner there said he wouldn't be getting anymore of either until the 2020's came out. Asked how long that would be, and he said a couple months. Disappointed I ran over to the Cannondale dealer, and wanted to look at the Quick or Quick CX. He had neither of those. I asked about a Giant model, but he had very little selection in those. I road a very little used $1300 Specialized bike with drop bars. That he was selling for $900. Didn't like the feel of that at all. He had a couple of Adventures that I rode, and ended up with an Adventure 1. I paid $700 for it, and didn't really know if that was a good deal or not. It has a mono shock, above the forks, and a shock under the seat. The bike is classified as comfort/fitness. The flat bars can be adjusted forward or more upright position.
So yes then came the accessories. I got a carrier for the hitch on my Forester, which I do like. I can get the bike on and off it in seconds. That was $200. then a bike lock, a rear rack, a bag for the rack, water bottle holder, a bag that straps to the bar in front of the seat, for carrying, keys, cellphone, wallet,etc. A trip computer. Also bought a spare tube, co2, and a patch kit. And a bag that fits under the seat to carry that stuff in. Don't have a helmet yet. So I have put about 25 miles on it so far, and I do like riding, and I like the bike, but really have nothing to compare it with because this is the first bike of this kind that I have ever ridden. If this bike is a comfort bike. I'd hate to ride a non comfort bike, because after about four or five miles. My butt hurts like heck. So along came another one of those accessories. I bought padded bike shorts, and have not got to ride with them this week, because all it has done here this week is pour down rain. So yeah, the accessories cost lots of money too. What hobby doesn't cost money, right?
Wait until I tell my friend what I got. It was completely opposite of what he told me to get. Then I just want a bike to ride the 100's of miles of rail trails in my area and enjoy the country side. there will be no bike racing. Nor do I plan on riding it on any road. I just think that increases the risk of serious injury, and not from it being my fault, but from someone hitting me. Although the asphalt sections on the rail trials are really nice to ride on.
So tomorrow is my last day of work, then its a forever weekend, and I hope to get to ride a lot more if it ever quits raining. Thanks for your input Fat2Fit. At times I think I should have waited and looked around more before I bought. I never was one to spend endless hours driving around looking for that perfect thing I wanted. But I figure if I like this hobby enough, I can always do a trade in next year.

fat2fit

Congrats on the Adventure 1. Definitely a unique looking bike, I had to google it to see what you were talking about since I'm new to the scene as well. It looks comfortable. As far as butt soreness goes, the first time I rode my new bike I had the same issue. I even changed the seat out, didn't get much better. The more you ride the more you'll get used to it and your butt won't feel as sore. I can ride around town a fair bit now without any soreness in the butt, but I think that's normal no matter what bike you would have purchased - it's just because you haven't ridden in so long and sat on a bike saddle in years. One thing I did was purchase an aftermarket saddle but upon purchasing my Dual Sport 2 I actually returned it back to my bike shop because the Dual Sport 2 saddle was more comfortable. I think the biggest thing for me was that the Dual Sport 2 has a little curve down where your "junk" would be, so it's a bit more comfortable for the men out there.

I have no experience with a mono type shock, does it bounce a lot when you try to stand up and pedal? If you don't like the bike your local bike shop should be able to swap it out for a different model and do a return for you. That sucks they had no Dual Sports or FX's you could try. I think the Dual Sport 2 or FX3 would have been a better choice. They could always do a special order for you, but keep in mind you'll probably want to ride it first.

As far as what your friend said about getting Shimano 105 derailleurs, that's nonsense. It sounds like he rides road bikes in groups and does big group rides/races, if that's the case then yes, you want some quality shifters. The entry-level stuff you find on "real bikes" like Trek, Cannondale, Giant, etc. are all great for normal commuting and cruising around town. My Trek DS2 has Acera and Tourney components and I haven't had 1 issue with my chain not shifting where I wanted it to and not once instance of the chain popping at all. My road bike I had before my DS2 had Shimano Ultegra groupset (2nd best there is) and to be honest, not worth the money for what I'm doing around town. If you were to get into road bikes and racing, different story. For hybird bikes it doesn't matter (in my opinion).

I suggest keep riding on your Cannondale for now and see if your mind changes. If you find yourself not wanting to ride it, look for a different bike. I didn't really want to go out and ride when I had my mountain bike (on roads), and when I had my road bike I would only want to ride if I wasn't having to run errands or anything as it wasn't very comfortable. As soon as I bought my Hybird Dual Sport I actually want to ride because it's comfortable and enjoyable to ride around - that's what you want out of your bike.

johjo

Hi, another new rider bike owner here- maybe you can adjust orientation of the seat? When I picked up my new bike I did a few test runs, returning to shop for slight adjustments. For me, tilting the seat slightly forward made an instant noticeable difference. At first, a quick run around the LBS = Ouch! They adjusted the seat and right away I noticed less pressure. And now I ride for 15 miles without the throbbing or numbness. I'm a woman, so your perfect seat position may vary from mine.

I also rode an Adventure and I liked it, congrats on your bike and retirement!

Alzerbster

Johjo, Thank you. I don't know maybe tilting the seat forward would help me. Thanks for the idea. Hope you enjoy your new bike and riding also. I got to ride another 8 miles last night, and tried my padded bike shorts out. They do make a difference. The more I ride this bike the more I like it.

Fat2fit, in answer to your question, no I don't notice the mono shock giving much when I stand on the pedal. Its fairly rigid, and hardly notice any give when riding. I should have known better than to ask my friend about what bike to get, because I do know he is into riding fast, and have to figure anyone who has 7K into a bike would have a much different opinion on what I wanted a bike for. Him and his group did the whole Allegheny passage to Washington DC, and I remember him telling me their intent was to see how fast they could do it. He did tell me the time it took, but I didn't pay much attention, because I had no idea what a normal time would be on that trip. The Acera and tourney shifters are what is on the Adventure, and they seem to work fine. I have wondered how much difference the higher end shifters would make that are installed on bikes that are $1200 and up. That makes sense that they would not make much difference on a bike ridden on trails or just riding around town. You mentioned in your other post about not needing the other two chain rings, which is what I have found out. I think 99% of the 30 miles I have ridden so far its been riding on the second or middle chain ring.

AU Tiger

Congrats on the new bike!!!

I wouldn't worry about what your friend or anyone else thinks. It sounds like you found a bike that you like and that suits your needs, and that's really all that matters. Just get out and enjoy riding it.

I know you're in western PA, but if you ever have the chance to get over to the Pine Creek Rail trail in north central PA, it is absolutely beautiful in the fall... especially the upper 15 or so miles of it.

Alzerbster

Thanks AU. Funny you mentioned that area, because I had just been wondering if there was a rail trail in that area. That area up there is beautiful, and I love the town of Wellsboro. Wellsboro has always been one of my favorite towns that I have visited. I have been there a couple times, and once was in the fall. Are you from that area? I just checked the trail out on the All Trails app, and now that is another trail that is definitely on my bucket list.

Had another question. Yesterday I and a friend were on a local trail. He has an E-bike, and I was asking questions about how the battery assist worked. He said here take it for a ride. So without using any battery assist, I couldn't help but notice how effortlessly the bike rolled. My bike on that same area I would have been pedaling much harder to go the same speed his bike was with little or no peddling. I'm guessing that is because of the tires correct? I have 38c tires and his are, I'm guessing at least 45C. I thought the narrower the tire the easier the bike would roll. Anyway I couldn't believe the difference. My tire has some horizontal tread on the outer edges of the tire, but by no means I would consider it an aggressive tread tire compared to other bike tires. I know tires can have an affect on rolling resistance, but I was shocked at the difference between my bike and my friends bike.

AU Tiger

I'm in Selinsgrove, which is between Harrisburg and Williamsport. So it's a little bit of a drive to get there, but well worth it. I've ridden the southern part of the trail from Jersey Shore to Waterville, and on a different occasion the section from Blackwell to Darling Run (pictures from that ride below). I have not done the part between Darling Run and Wellsboro.[/QUOTE]

Are you sure the battery assist was turned off? Bike geometry and tires both make a difference, but I'd be surprised if it would be that noticeable in a short ride on a relatively flat trail, especially given the extra weight of the e-bike. I have a mountain bike with a front suspension and (until two days ago) a fitness hybrid which is much lighter and has narrower tires, and on rail trails they both seem about the same with respect to effort. On roads there is a huge difference, but not on flat trails.

hokiefyd 

I suspect it's a combination of a few things. The geometry of the e-bike might be better-suited for pedaling efficiency than your bike is. This is so because of the way the bike puts your body, and involves things like reach, seat tube angle, etc. It could even have been the saddle. Another factor is the weight. Weight has both advantages and disadvantages. One of the disadvantages is it's harder to accelerate. One of the advantages is its greater momentum. Once you have it rolling, it'll generally continue rolling farther than a lighter bike (all else being equal). My parents have e-bikes and I kept the assist off the first time I rode one of them, just to get a feel for the bike itself. It's about 60 pounds fully dressed, and it's definitely harder to pedal up sharp hills. But you know, it wasn't noticeably more difficult to pedal than any other bike on most terrain, and we rode about 20 miles that day (I had the assist off the whole time). It's a 27.5" e-MTB with 2.25" Schwalbe Smart Sams.

Depending on your riding and terrain, more weight can be a real advantage.

My daily driver bikes are about 32-34 pounds with the rack and trunk bag on them. I have lighter bikes (around 25 pounds), but I ride these heavier ones the most, because they're more comfortable to me (not due to the weight, but due to other aspects). The point is, the additional weight just doesn't negatively impact the experience for me.

Alzerbster

Yes the battery assist was turned off. The trail we were on had a pretty good down grade for a rail trail. I just pedaled a few times and how it was coasting was where I noticed how easy it coasted. I was not peddling at the time. Just sitting on the bike and letting it coast. Coming back up the grade, I did use the battery assist, and I had no trouble going up hill at 16 MPH. I agree weight has a bit to do with it, but I can't believe the little bit of weight difference made that big a difference. On this trail going down hill I have to work a bit to get my bike to 25mph. I could have easily got the E-bike to 30, without much work, and that is with no battery assist. Years ago when i rode some, I and my brother were riding on a rail trail, and I rode his bike for a while, and I couldn't believe then how much easier his bike rolled than mine. Now mind you I had a $200 bike at the time, but the tires had more aggressive tread on them than his bike, and we both agreed that it was probably the tires that made the difference. Actually the bike I was riding was a heavier bike than the one my brother was on. Thanks for you guys input.

Nice pics Au. I'm really looking forward to riding that trail. I'm already planning to do that in the fall.

Alzerbster

I was looking on Schwalbe's web site, and there was some information there about bike tire rolling resistance. It claims that wider tires have less rolling resistance than narrow tires. I thought the opposite was true. I tried posting the link, but I guess the forum rules are that I have to have 10 posts before I can post a link.

travbikeman

Are you sure the battery assist was turned off? Bike geometry and tires both make a difference, but I'd be surprised if it would be that noticeable in a short ride on a relatively flat trail, especially given the extra weight of the e-bike. I have a mountain bike with a front suspension and (until two days ago) a fitness hybrid which is much lighter and has narrower tires, and on rail trails they both seem about the same with respect to effort. On roads there is a huge difference, but not on flat trails.





[/QUOTE]

I've ridden this trail several times and am so looking forward to going back up this summer and this fall. If you all get a chance, check out the Pine Creek Rail trail Facebook site to see great photo's....better yet, go riding. I particularly love the PA Grand Canyon area. Secluded from the roads and just beautiful. My parents live in Selinsgrove and I used to attend LHUP. It's just a really nice area.

travbikeman

Ok, gotta share a couple pictures too!



Several great bridges like this



My son and I enjoyed camping at Cedar Run.

Jrasero

I agree with this but I am not sure I would even invest in buying cheap bikes juts to figure out what you want. I think borrowing peoples bikes, renting, them, finding a cool shop that will let you demo it for longer periods of time makes more sense. Point being you easily can get the wrong bike and size for you.

The one pit fall buying used is you really need to know what your looking for so either you have to educate yourself vastly or bring someone who cna guide you and even then it's kind of a gamble.

I hate to say this but your best bet is show rooming. Do some research on types of bikes you like and go see them at your local bike shop and a decent amount of bikes you can buy"new" but just as a leftover online. The warranty stays intact and all you would need to do is take your bike to a local bike shop light assembly and tuning.

piermont bikes based in NY is one of the biggest bike wholesalers and sells off ebay, right now they have a ton of Felts VR. It's very important before you buy to figure out your size depending on the model/year

https://www.ebay.com/sch/Bicycles/17...&_skc=50&rt=nc