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Bar Taping and Electrical Tape looking tape?

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Old 08-26-20, 03:27 PM
  #26  
kaiserschmarrn
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
In the 70's seemed like all bikes started the wrap in the center and worked out to the bar ends. I've definitely had tape curl over time, but usually it isn't bad.

Not sure when the shift occurred to go the other way.
My.previous bike, which I got with everything original on it was a '76-'79 Peugeot PRN10. That came wrapped from the center out, and that is how I rewrapped it when needed. I never saw another method till I got this early 90s Specialized Allez Comp. That got me really scratching my head when I saw the electricical tape, so I posted here.

I wonder if heat shrink tubing might work as "finishing tape". No residue. I have seen it big enough, or leat least close to it at work.

Danny
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Old 08-26-20, 03:41 PM
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Aside from the direction of wrap having changed, tape has gotten thicker as well. Often it is too thick to tuck beneath the end plug without making an unsightly bulge. Start the bar tape flush with the bar end, use a piece of electrical tape to hold it in place. Use plenty of overlap for the first go around.
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Old 08-26-20, 04:02 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
Aside from the direction of wrap having changed, tape has gotten thicker as well. Often it is too thick to tuck beneath the end plug without making an unsightly bulge. Start the bar tape flush with the bar end, use a piece of electrical tape to hold it in place. Use plenty of overlap for the first go around.
I forgot to mention; the tape that was on my Peugeot was cloth, the brand is still around, but I can't remember the name. It was thin.

Danny
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Old 08-26-20, 04:07 PM
  #29  
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Neubaum's still makes nice cloth tape. Looks good on a retro bike.
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Old 08-26-20, 05:19 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
Neubaum's still makes nice cloth tape. Looks good on a retro bike.
I think it was Velox Tressotar Tape on my Peugeot as OEM equipment.

Danny
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Old 08-26-20, 05:21 PM
  #31  
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I have a question.

Where exactly does it curl if wrapped from top to bottom?

John
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Old 08-26-20, 05:27 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by shelbyfv
Aside from the direction of wrap having changed, tape has gotten thicker as well. Often it is too thick to tuck beneath the end plug without making an unsightly bulge. Start the bar tape flush with the bar end, use a piece of electrical tape to hold it in place. Use plenty of overlap for the first go around.
Phew, not sure if I agree with you on that one. I typically trim the overlapping part so only a eight-quarter inch or so overlaps the end of the tube. Not hard to push an end plug in even with thick tape.
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Old 08-26-20, 05:31 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by 70sSanO
I have a question.

Where exactly does it curl if wrapped from top to bottom?

John
On the outer curved part at the top of the bar. This only happens if you ride with the heel of your palms on that part of the bar.
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Old 08-26-20, 05:36 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Its an old technique from square rigged sailing days when all the lines were a natural fiber, to hold the cut ends together..
Aye, matey, that's why I whip the ends of my bar tape with tarred marline (Yes I actually do). Looks much better than tape.
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Old 08-26-20, 05:36 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
On the outer curved part at the top of the bar. This only happens if you ride with the heel of your palms on that part of the bar.
Thanks!

John
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Old 08-26-20, 05:58 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
One of the and if not the the main problems w/ bar tape and finish tape is that people leave tape on for wayyyyyyyyy too long. If you ride regularly you should be changing your bar tape every few months. Especially in the summer, more so if you sweat a lot, and even more so if you use aluminum handlebars. Sweaty bar tape is nasty, do you really want to smell like a goat? It also holds that sweat against the bar and can start some truly epic corrosion, I'm sure you've seen photos. Do yourself a favor and put new tape on every couple-3-4 months.
You may be doing a lot more riding than me so replacing bar tape every 3-4 months seems extraordinarily excessive to me.

FWIW, I replace mine on an as-need basis which is more like 3-4 YEARS, And I ride a few thousand miles per year.
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Old 08-26-20, 07:52 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by fujidon
You may be doing a lot more riding than me so replacing bar tape every 3-4 months seems extraordinarily excessive to me.

FWIW, I replace mine on an as-need basis which is more like 3-4 YEARS, And I ride a few thousand miles per year.
That's gross. Jesus, it's $20.00. Tell me your tape isn't nasty after a year, much less 3-4. I'll tell ya a story about a customer I had a long time ago. Had a commute bike he rode from Marin to SF every day. Beat the thing to death, never changed anything til it didn't work. Well, one day he was coming back into Sausalito and there's a tight left hand corner on the way down the hill from the GGB. His 5-6 year old aluminum bar broke and he ended up in the ER. Nasty cut on his neck from the Armco barrier he hit. A month later he was dead from a staph infection. An extremely rare situation but he never saw the need to change his bar tape.
Do yourself a favor and maintain your bike. $20.00 every few months...totally worth it if you ask me. Don't be cheap.
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Old 08-26-20, 08:12 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
That's gross. Jesus, it's $20.00. Tell me your tape isn't nasty after a year, much less 3-4.
I’m in the “change my bar take every several years not months” crowd.

I’ll bet your saddle is sweaty and smelly too. How often do you change it?

Dan
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Old 08-26-20, 08:24 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by _ForceD_
I’m in the “change my bar take every several years not months” crowd.

I’ll bet your saddle is sweaty and smelly too. How often do you change it?

Dan
Apples and oranges pal...apples and oranges. It blows me away how cheap some people are when it comes to their toys. This isn't anywhere near the worst I've seen, how many potential problems do you see here?
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Old 08-26-20, 09:46 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by drlogik
Previous posts are correct. Wrapping top to bottom exposes the raw edge and the edge can curl. Wrapping bottom to top keeps the edge over-lapped and it doesn't curl, but, you're left with using some kind of sticky tape to finish the tape off on top. If you finish the plastic electrical tape off correctly it won't unravel or curl.

This is how I was taught many years ago:
Start wrapping the electrical tape pretty tight and stretch it around the bar twice, then let off on the tension about 50% and wrap a half more turn, then let off almost all tension and wrap to complete with 3 total wraps with the end of the tape on the middle of the back edge of the bar. That way your fingers won't pull the tape off.

+1 on buying high quality electrical tape. I like 3M.
Everything about this post is 100% spot on, especially how to finish with the electrical tape and 3m all the way.

Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
In the 70's seemed like all bikes started the wrap in the center and worked out to the bar ends. I've definitely had tape curl over time, but usually it isn't bad.

Not sure when the shift occurred to go the other way. Electrical tape looks so cheesy.
The first bar tape job I ever did the directions in the package said to wrap from center to ends, it was the old fashioned perforated vinyl over foam and this was in 89. The tape curled of course and I never wrapped tape like that, I followed what the tape jobs looked like at the LBS the next time I stopped in.

Originally Posted by cxwrench
Apples and oranges pal...apples and oranges. It blows me away how cheap some people are when it comes to their toys. This isn't anywhere near the worst I've seen, how many potential problems do you see here?
I change mine every couple of years or after any major damage and I can assure you I've never found anything that looks like that underneath. But I've also seen stems corroded to steerer tubes and frames that had bubbled and rusted through near the head tube from sweat. Some people just have sweat issues that will cause that problem and I don't so every couple years works. I also have 5 different drop bar bikes and none of them are wall hangers so the tape doesn't get that bad that quick. Course if I cheaped out and only bought 20.00 tape maybe I'd replace it every few months too .
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Old 08-26-20, 09:54 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
In the 70's seemed like all bikes started the wrap in the center and worked out to the bar ends. I've definitely had tape curl over time, but usually it isn't bad.

Not sure when the shift occurred to go the other way.
I worked at a shop in the early '80s and there were basically two types of bar tape - Benotto Cello (ribbon) and Tressostar (cloth). We always started the wrap at the stem and it was very easy to tuck the excess into the bar end. I'd guess things changed when padded bar tape came along.

The only reason I ever started wrapping from the bar ends was because I bought an aero bar and needed to be able to re-do the tape for installation & removal.
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Old 08-27-20, 03:07 AM
  #42  
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I don't see a need to replace bar tape until it's torn and/or worn out. I wash my bikes regularly and the cork tape always gets cleaned, even under the hoods. It has nothing to do with economics, I have plenty of other stuff to do that really needs done.
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Old 08-27-20, 05:03 AM
  #43  
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I am reminded of the time a customer came to the store and asked if we would re-wrap his bar tape that we had installed a year before. The tape was beginning to unwrap a bit in a couple of places. He wanted us to do the re-wrap for free and I said we would charge for the service because he had been using it for a year. He refused to pay for the service ($12) and left disappointed we would not provide a free re-wrap. We will stand behind the work we do but not when a year has elapsed.
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Old 08-27-20, 08:28 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by kaiserschmarrn
I wonder if heat shrink tubing might work as "finishing tape". No residue. I have seen it big enough, or least least close to it at work.
Yes, it probably could work but I see two potential problems:

1. You would have to cut the tubing to length and slip it over the bars before the brake levers or brifters were installed. Also you couldn't replace it if you change bar tape without completely disassembling the bars.
2. The heat needed to shrink it may be enough to damage the bar tape.
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Old 08-28-20, 04:54 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by HillRider
Yes, it probably could work but I see two potential problems:

1. You would have to cut the tubing to length and slip it over the bars before the brake levers or brifters were installed. Also you couldn't replace it if you change bar tape without completely disassembling the bars.
2. The heat needed to shrink it may be enough to damage the bar tape.
I'll add a 3rd problem, heat on a carbon bar. That component won't use high-temperature resin like a wheel, so you could damage the handlebars (if carbon).
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Old 09-13-20, 08:11 PM
  #46  
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I have now a week or so ago tried wrapping from the bar ends in. While I find this method a bit more complicated, I find that I much prefer riding on a bike wrapped from the bars in. On my Peugeot wrapped center out, the Velox tape curling in my hand while riding was annoying.

Danny
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Old 09-13-20, 08:53 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by cxwrench
Apples and oranges pal...apples and oranges. It blows me away how cheap some people are when it comes to their toys. This isn't anywhere near the worst I've seen, how many potential problems do you see here?

What's the problem? The bar doesn't look corroded, the tape holding the cable doesn't even look old. If you have lots of acid sweat and old bare aluminum bars, yeah, inspect.

Randos make it a point of honor to never change their bar tape if they can help it.
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Old 09-13-20, 10:20 PM
  #48  
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Nearly every 'Rando' I've come across is cheap, smelly, and somewhat odd. Makes sense they don't change their tape often. Also makes sense they're the smallest group in cycling.
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