Chorus brake levers in non-aero configuration
12-17-18, 04:06 PM
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Thanks for all of your input everyone. I believe this brake lever was never made to be used in any configuration other than aero. Since I've never found any extra parts intended to lock the barrel in one position, I made my own from a piece of birch wood. The wood fits very tight but still allows the barrel to rotate when the lever is pulled.
12-17-18, 04:11 PM
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This thread is timely for me. I have a set of Chorus levers exactly like yours @Vince Hoffmann.
I was intending to use them on my Masi so that the bike could be ridden in Eroica-type events. The usual configuration will be Chorus 10s shifter/brakes. My plan was to fit these, cut the cables and housings to length, and then put them aside. I'll have to re-wrap the bars to install them, but that only takes a few minutes. Adding a set of VO DT shifters, which don't require any housing, just cable, it's ready to go.
EDIT: Maybe filing a radius in the top of the slot at the front would provide a way to more easily keep the barrel at the front. There is plenty of metal there, so it shouldn't cause any weakness.
I might look into 3D printing a spacer to use in these levers, radiused at the front for the barrel. Maybe I should just build it without shifter/brakes from the start and leave it with brakes and DT shifters. I could sell the Chorus shifter/brakes easily. Something to consider...
I was intending to use them on my Masi so that the bike could be ridden in Eroica-type events. The usual configuration will be Chorus 10s shifter/brakes. My plan was to fit these, cut the cables and housings to length, and then put them aside. I'll have to re-wrap the bars to install them, but that only takes a few minutes. Adding a set of VO DT shifters, which don't require any housing, just cable, it's ready to go.
EDIT: Maybe filing a radius in the top of the slot at the front would provide a way to more easily keep the barrel at the front. There is plenty of metal there, so it shouldn't cause any weakness.
I might look into 3D printing a spacer to use in these levers, radiused at the front for the barrel. Maybe I should just build it without shifter/brakes from the start and leave it with brakes and DT shifters. I could sell the Chorus shifter/brakes easily. Something to consider...
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Last edited by RobbieTunes; 12-17-18 at 04:21 PM.
04-26-19, 05:36 PM
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Can I just jump in with some inane questions about Chorus brake levers?
The exploded diagram of the Record version shows a BL-RE006 return spring, but there isn’t one on my Chorus levers, although Velobase seems to think there should be. Is this correct or am I missing a part?
How does that quick release pin work? I can’t see how it ‘releases’ as it hits the lever body in every position.
The exploded diagram of the Record version shows a BL-RE006 return spring, but there isn’t one on my Chorus levers, although Velobase seems to think there should be. Is this correct or am I missing a part?
How does that quick release pin work? I can’t see how it ‘releases’ as it hits the lever body in every position.
04-26-19, 07:17 PM
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I don't think so, most cable stops are wider than the cutout in the lever. Press the lever against the handlebars and thread it in from the top.
04-27-19, 03:02 AM
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04-27-19, 05:46 AM
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@pbekkerh, I didn't pursue the 3D printing, as I traded the levers for other components. I decided to use Campy brifters on my Masi. I picked up a 1983 Pinarello that will be my Eroica-style bike, should I ever need such a machine.
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04-27-19, 09:05 AM
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Here are my eroica bikes
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04-27-19, 09:34 AM
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09-17-20, 01:08 PM
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Reviving an old thread. @verktyg wrote:
I have a set of these levers I plan to use with a set of monoplaner brakes (no qr at the brake, hence these levers). As I understand it, to run them non-aero, I need to insert the little #12 guide cable plate (pn 7283057) into the slots in the levers. Is it just the small amount of resting tension in the cables which keeps them in place?
I have a set of these levers I plan to use with a set of monoplaner brakes (no qr at the brake, hence these levers). As I understand it, to run them non-aero, I need to insert the little #12 guide cable plate (pn 7283057) into the slots in the levers. Is it just the small amount of resting tension in the cables which keeps them in place?
09-17-20, 01:52 PM
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Campy Brake Lever Aero Guide
Reviving an old thread. @verktyg wrote:
I have a set of these levers I plan to use with a set of monoplaner brakes (no qr at the brake, hence these levers). As I understand it, to run them non-aero, I need to insert the little #12 guide cable plate (pn 7283057) into the slots in the levers. Is it just the small amount of resting tension in the cables which keeps them in place?
I have a set of these levers I plan to use with a set of monoplaner brakes (no qr at the brake, hence these levers). As I understand it, to run them non-aero, I need to insert the little #12 guide cable plate (pn 7283057) into the slots in the levers. Is it just the small amount of resting tension in the cables which keeps them in place?
The part # 12 is required for aero cabling not for non aero. It's used to run the cable down towards the clamp and out the bottom.
You may need to use needle nose pliers to get them out or into the lever. Some hoods had brake cable holes in them. The gray plastic plugs are used to fill those holes when going aero.
There were 2 versions of those pieces, depending on the model of the levers.
You may need to cut a hole in the rubber hood to use the levers non aero.
I personally hate aero cabling... It's a pain to set up and if you want to move the levers on the bars such as to cant them in or out a little, you almost have to retape them. All part of the short lived marketoit driven fantasy of the whole aero fad.
verktyg retrogrouch
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Last edited by verktyg; 09-17-20 at 02:04 PM.
09-17-20, 02:21 PM
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Skip,
The part # 12 is required for aero cabling not for non aero....
I personally hate aero cabling... It's a pain to set up and if you want to move the levers on the bars such as to cant them in or out a little, you almost have to retape them. All part of the short lived marketoit driven fantasy of the whole aero fad.
The part # 12 is required for aero cabling not for non aero....
I personally hate aero cabling... It's a pain to set up and if you want to move the levers on the bars such as to cant them in or out a little, you almost have to retape them. All part of the short lived marketoit driven fantasy of the whole aero fad.
As for aero being a fad, I think it's pretty much here to stay in the form of brifters, yes? I agree that redoing things in any way is going to be a PITA. This is just a provisional build on a Serotta. If it turns out to be a keeper, I'll have the rear triangle spread to 126 then set it up with a Dura-Ace 7400 group (no choice on the aero/non-aero thing).
09-17-20, 06:36 PM
#37
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Campy Aero Brake Levers
Thanks @verktyg. Brain freeze on my part. I did mean "aero." I have/had the second package you showed (grooved guide, blue lettering on the package. It came with the levers. The little bits seemed to slide in easily enough, and my initial setup suggests they are doing what they should. I have the two-way hoods as well. They came with plugs installed (so the plugs in the package are just spares). When I looked at the front brake after setting it up, I thought, "Oh, no! I cut the housing too short!" Then I remembered I'm working with monoplaner calipers (Veloce, as it turns out - levers (Athena?) and calipers were acquired in separate transactions), so the cable runs diagonally across the head tube to reach the calipers. I think the calipers are pretty, but it looks pretty weird to my eye to not have the cable housing run parallel to the head tube.
As for aero being a fad, I think it's pretty much here to stay in the form of brifters, yes? I agree that redoing things in any way is going to be a PITA. This is just a provisional build on a Serotta. If it turns out to be a keeper, I'll have the rear triangle spread to 126 then set it up with a Dura-Ace 7400 group (no choice on the aero/non-aero thing).
As for aero being a fad, I think it's pretty much here to stay in the form of brifters, yes? I agree that redoing things in any way is going to be a PITA. This is just a provisional build on a Serotta. If it turns out to be a keeper, I'll have the rear triangle spread to 126 then set it up with a Dura-Ace 7400 group (no choice on the aero/non-aero thing).
I bought a 1988 Bianchi Giro on eBay in 2010. It had less than 100 miles on it and came with a last generation 1987 Campy Nuovo Victory gruppo. The brake levers appear to be 1986 C-Record that are convertible.
eBay photos
When I overhauled the bike after I got it, I changed the cables back to non-aero... I get better reception!
I have 2 versions of Monoplaner brakes. The ones with the square brake blocks are circa 1988 Chorus. The rounded pads are the 1992 version calipers. I like the way they look plus they stop as well as dual pivot brakes.
On my early 80's Gios. These are the earlier version but have rounded pads.
verktyg
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Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
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Last edited by verktyg; 09-17-20 at 06:42 PM.
09-20-20, 10:17 PM
#38
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All of you folks are awesome! I've been running with my birch wood-plugged brake levers for over 2 years with no problems. I'm glad my garage fix to make aero into non-aero brakes gave a few of you some ideas 
Here's a pic of my bike after a 40 mile ride 2 days ago... and yes, the brakes are still working perfectly
Here's a pic of my bike after a 40 mile ride 2 days ago... and yes, the brakes are still working perfectly
