MikeyMike85

I’m seeking guidance on rebuilding a Specialized Enduro. I’m just getting back into mountain biking as I took some years off to devote my time to raising my two little boys. I appreciate any input, and I thank everyone in advance.

I’m trying to determine if it’s worth the time, effort, and of course the $$ to move forward with this project. The frame is about 15 years old, but in good shape overall, cost to acquire is $250. The bike does need a new drivetrain. The wheels and tires are in decent shape. I have a key to true up the rims and will see what life the tires have. For a bike like this, what options would I have? Is there a setup or certain I should look out for or even those I should stay away from? The bike also needs a tuneup (I’m told the shocks are flowing, but I don’t know what that means?) and a tuneup as well. Since the bike is is used a tuneup is a given anyways. There’s a bunch of shops in the area that offer different packages for service, which I’ll have to decide on depending on how the re-build goes.

One of my main concerns is that I end up starting this, dumping $$ into it and I just can’t find the parts or the costs end up to be just outrageous that I can’t justify it anymore.

Bob the Mech

Pic 1: Specialized Enduro Comp 26er 2005
Pic 2: Specialized Enduro Comp 29er 2021



Have you thought of going 1 x drive chain...or a 2 x....Cost is always a factor when bringing a bike back from the past. Set a budget. And try to stick to it. Be realistic about what you want the bike to do and also consider your skill level as it is now...not what it was then.


Or retro refit with all original parts....may be

https://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/...spx?item=10578

MikeyMike85

Hey Bob, thanks for the response! You make a lot of good points. The budget idea is exactly where I plan to start with this, but I hate to admit it, I’m really in the dark about overall costs. When I rode years ago, pre-kids, I had money to waste, so I’d often just foolishly get a new bike rather than looking into repairs. Would you have any idea of even just a ballpark figure for a setup that would be about halfway between cheapest possible and brand new/better than new. I’d say my skill set would be about average. When out riding it wouldn’t seem like I just got off training wheels, but I’m also not going to be the guy that nobody would be able to keep up with. I have my hesitations, but I’d like to take this or a similar project on because I plan to have more time to dedicate to riding as my kids get older. Also, do you have any links for options on a complete drivetrain? In regards to wheels and tires, I know they can be very expensive, so is it best to just true up the rims, unless they are completely shot?

Bob the Mech

I'll get back to you on this, as it my bed time here in the UK Work in the morning....... But take a look at the Shimano Deore M6000 11 speed MTB groupset (I won't go any lower than this) and Shimano XT M8000 11 speed. They both come with hydraulic disc (if your 2005 system isn't up to sratch). There's also the Shimano Zee 640 10 speed group set and the Shimano SLX M7000 11 speed groupo.

Here's a link to the Shimano web site for specs.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/components/mtb.html

Get yourself on line and read up on what they can do. They can be bought as individual parts or as a compete set. There's plenty of reviews and expert opinion on these. I'll get back to you tomorrow when I've got a bit more time

Then there's SRAM components...but lets deal with one thing at a time...

Bob the Mech

Get the your current wheel set serviced first and checked over. If they are good to go then on need to get a new set. 26er wheelsets are pretty thin on the ground to purchase 'as new' since the trend is for 27.5 and 29er wheels on modern MTBs. They are out there, just not very many. The option to source individual wheel components to get a set custom made is avaiable, but this adds another level of cost.

Darth Lefty 

I don’t know why there’s any reason to suspect that wheels are in bad shape. It seems like you haven’t even seen the bike yet.

I think this would be a pretty cool bike for a budget. It’s certainly not the latest style, but the latest style will cost you 15 times more money. This is not like the Trek that we were talking about a few days ago. That one was from the 90s and had some fully developed bad ideas.

Before you get upgrade fever make sure it’s working. Not just the tires and wheels etc., but also that the suspension holds air and doesn’t leak oil.

It might suit you. Not everyone loves the 11 speed drivetrains or the new riding position. And the bike is not as far removed from that as, say, a hardtail of the same vintage. Everyone does seem to like dropper posts, though, and that looks like it would be a problem on this bike

Bob the Mech

I didn't say the wheels were in bad shape....read the text again...would you like to borrow my glasses this time...

Darth Lefty 

I was addressing the OP. He is the one who mentioned a spoke wrench.

Canker

If you are paying a shop to do the work nope skip it. Old full suspension bikes don't age well. Besides the design being out dated can you get the suspension parts(bushing and bearings) anymore? It probably needs them if they haven't been done. If you can do the work yourself it could be a cheap way to get started and ride for a year or two but I wouldn't do it if you are paying a shop. Take off the chainrings and replace the middle ring with a narrow wide ring and slap some mid range 11 speed bits on it and leave it alone. Hope nothing else breaks and start saving up for something newer. If you are paying a shop to do work it is going to kill any savings so you might as well just go ahead and up the budget and get something used for $500-600 that doesn't need any work.

gsa103

Agree on the shop part. I fully rebuilt my 2010 Yeti 575, after I tried to get a quote on it, and it would have been about $600 for a shop. Many shops won't do it.
The parts are typically very easy to source. Bearings/bushings are usually common stock sizes, so they're widely available. Linkage arms are different story, but those don't wear. The rebuild kit for a Fox float RP32 was about $25, but I spent $150 having Fox rebuild the fork.
Also, at least around here, a full-suspension rig that doesn't need some maintenance is $2k+ used.