Vintagebiker222

So I’m trying to find out what bottle cage would be correct for my 1970’s Bianchi. I like the handlebar mounted ones but did they do them for bikes of that era? I’ve seen the early ones that are designed to carry the old aluminium bottles, but I don’t think they would work with a 1970’s plastic bottle? When did they switch from aluminium bottles to plastic anyway?

Salamandrine 

The correct cage is a chrome steel TA cage mounted on the downtube, but a similar Italian made cage would also be correct. Correct bottle is plastic with a flip off cap: REG, Mariplast, or ALE. TA bottle also acceptable... You're not going to find a usable vintage plastic bottle today.

While there were probably a few outliers, handlebar cages were not used in the 70s.

Before my time, but I think the switch to plastic bottles happened around the early 60s? Study of period race photos would tell you.

rjhammett

Here is how I solved the water bottle issue with my '72 Holdsworth Professional. I didn't want to use clamps on the downtube that could wreck the decals so I built a bottle holder using an old Cateye reflector mechanism. Initially I tried a Minoura BH-60 holder that goes on the bars but it looked bad.

CliffordK

The old steel cages were awfully flexy.

I bought a frame a while ago that the previous owner was happy to have put a "vintage" cage on it. I think it was actually a "repro", and disintegrated on the first ride (week).

I realize there are people who want everything to be perfect, but I like functionality. The newer tubular stainless or titanium cages are nice.

ryansu

correct is not having one I think the solution above by @rjhammett is a nice unobtrusive one. I had a vintage clamp on with my 78 Motobecance Grand Touring I elected to not put that back on when I rebuilt the bike.


with clamp on bottle cage prior to rebuild

3speedslow

I used a bracket for a reflector as well but was able to mount it on the handle bar bolt. IMO, the cages from VO are quite sturdy and period looking.

greg3rd48 

I went with the Zefal Classic leather bottle cage with a Zefal bottle strap gizmo on my PX10. It fits the bill nicely and doesn't affect the paint due to the rubber straps.

Untitled by irishbx4th, on Flickr

Salamandrine 

Really? I never experienced the old TA cages as being flexy. Never ever lost a bottle, and I often rode gravel. Then again bottles were smaller, generally speaking.

Even the vintage TA super cages (alloy) were fine. This one has well over 100,000 miles on it.

unterhausen

I think TA cages were pretty good, but we didn't use giant bottles back then. So I'm sure my recollections are colored by that fact

dim

get nitto bottle cages .... not just classy, but the best

'02 nrs

been around before the '50's.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coloral-H...p2047675.l2557


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-C...p2047675.l2557

Vintagebiker222

Thanks for the good ideas! I do like the aluminium bottles with the vintage cages but it not sure it would look right on a 70’s bike?

Wildwood 

from about '72

Vintagebiker222

Yea that looks good, and a good idea to put some padding around the tube clamps.

the bottles used to be smaller like this repro one I think.

bark_eater 

I'm going to try a Minoura double handlebar mount and a couple TA ish bottle cages on my Super course. The plan is to strip the black paint off everything and "patinate" the aluminum. Hopefully it will blend in the general funk of the bike. I would like to get some full hoop cages as they would look better and most importantly be safer.

The Golden Boy 

I love the King cages.

steelbikeguy

The T.A. cages were a popular choice, and very functional. One cage on the downtube, and perhaps a second on the handlebar.
For the handlebar, my favorite is the T.A. cage.



Steve in Peoria

Vintagebiker222

yea I’ve seen these as well, they look good. How well do they hold the bottle? Does it slide down with the weight of a full bottle. I see yours has different clamps on it.

steelbikeguy

With just the original clamps, it can be hard to keep it from sliding down under the weight of a full bottle.
For that reason, I always put a layer of inner tube between the cage and the bars.
The T.A. clips work, and I've got them on two other bikes. The original bolts are just barely long enough to work and are hard to get started. The hose clamps a bit easier to install and get sufficient clamping force.

Steve in Peoria

dddd

I like the Chromed REG cages with their integral clamps which suit older frames without any bottle bosses.

I've had no failures with these, and it even holds my 32oz bottle perfectly (if snugly) if I just leave the latch in the open position.
You'll never lose a bottle from this cage!

I did smooth over the entrance/opening edges where (only) the 32oz bottle tended to get scratches from being more or less forced in.

Salamandrine 

^^^ +1. The other common type of cage was the REG 'erector' set type, and numerous knockoffs thereof. I think this design dates back to the aluminum bottle era. I'd imagine the spring mechanism would also work well with some appropriately sized modern stainless bottles.

REG also made a cage similar to the classic TA.

https://www.steel-vintage.com/reg-st...e-1970s-detail

People generally tightened the clamps right over the bare paint, and didn't really worry that it might leave a mark - mostly because that cage would likely never come off.

palincss

Perhaps paging through this scan of the 1974 Cyclopedia catalog https://drive.google.com/open?id=1iv...nzFBBod5gpsiOQ might be informative. There you will find the TA cage and TA water bottle, including the handlebar mount TA water bottle cage (p.21 of the catalog) as well as the Italian pierced sheet metal cages (Reg 164 but they're unbranded here) with the spring-loaded locking levers,




both downtube and handlebar mount, on p.52 of the catalog. It's also a wonderful time capsule of cycling part and accessories available at that particular time.

There are also scans of catalogs going back to the first Cyclopedia catalog from 1954 available.

palincss

They sure did make a mark, because those REG cages rusted something awful and left rust marks all of the bike frame, too.

SurferRosa

For me, stainless cages look best and color damage plastic bottles the least. So, for keepers, I go with the velo orange cages. Their retro cage (with tab) looks appropriate on '70s bikes. I also like their moderniste cage. These can be had under $20 shipped (+tax) on ebay.

https://velo-orange.com/collections/...-cages-bottles

They also sell the clamps, which have worked great for me.

79pmooney

By 1976, those cages (the French steel TA) were very well established in the racing world. Widely available, easy bottle removal and replacement, they never* shed bottles and never broke until they had served several lifetimes (and gave lots of warning).

Fun fact: TA kept making those cages many years after they disappeared from bike store because the pro racers who were not big names insisted. The "workers" or "domestiques". The unknowns who worked their tails off 100k before the finish and finished the race inside the time limit but with the team car and everybody else far up the road or gone home. The guys who work hard fro a living. They need to finish in good shape, wake up the next day and do it all over again. Losing bottles on a bumpy mountain descent and very hot day could mean rolling across the line close to physically sick form dehydration and being wasted the next 24 hours. When it came to WB cages, light, sexy and fast climbing came a very distant second for those riders to a cage that never dropped bottles.

If you want to keep the traditional look and all the good properties of those wonderful TA cages, get the modern King cages in either SS or ti. (And those King cages look and function just like the old TA; just a little lighter, a little nicer, a little cleaner appearance. TA got it right. King took it to a new level of manufacture.)

Ben

*if they did get tweaked so bottle fit was less than secure, bending them back to a reliable fit was easy and those tweaks never happened without real cause. Also true of the King cages though being tubular steel, you have to bend the Kings a little more carefully and it is harder to bend.