Buy new frame or upgrade old Trek 800?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Buy new frame or upgrade old Trek 800?
Hi Folks,
I have an old Trek 800 that I bought in the early 90's. over the years I upgraded the wheels, cranks and front derailleur, but otherwise the bike is close to its original factory shape.
I've been using the bike as a commuter but the ride position is less comfortable for me for the longer part of my commute. I wanted to replace the stem to provide me with a more upright riding position.
This old bike has a threaded headset. Is it easy to get brand new components that I could use to replace the factory headset and change the handlebar geometry for my bike? do they even sell threaded headset parts?
Or do you think it's better to buy a new frame and start from scratch.
There's an additional requirement, the bike has been converted to an electric assist bike. several years ago i bought a bionx conversion kit and installed the rear wheel motor (which replaces the normal rear wheel). I'd like to keep the electric assist feature and would need a bike frame that fits a 26" MTB wheel.
Would it be easier to just buy a new frame and the components and work from scratch? I realize that this would be an expensive route, but I could reuse some of the components from the existing bike to save a little time and money.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
I have an old Trek 800 that I bought in the early 90's. over the years I upgraded the wheels, cranks and front derailleur, but otherwise the bike is close to its original factory shape.
I've been using the bike as a commuter but the ride position is less comfortable for me for the longer part of my commute. I wanted to replace the stem to provide me with a more upright riding position.
This old bike has a threaded headset. Is it easy to get brand new components that I could use to replace the factory headset and change the handlebar geometry for my bike? do they even sell threaded headset parts?
Or do you think it's better to buy a new frame and start from scratch.
There's an additional requirement, the bike has been converted to an electric assist bike. several years ago i bought a bionx conversion kit and installed the rear wheel motor (which replaces the normal rear wheel). I'd like to keep the electric assist feature and would need a bike frame that fits a 26" MTB wheel.
Would it be easier to just buy a new frame and the components and work from scratch? I realize that this would be an expensive route, but I could reuse some of the components from the existing bike to save a little time and money.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions!
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: NE Tennessee
Posts: 917
Bikes: Giant TCR/Surly Karate Monkey/Foundry FireTower/Curtlo Tandem
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 169 Post(s)
Liked 84 Times
in
62 Posts
For the threaded headset, they make quills that have the same profile as modern steer tubes. That way you can change out the stem as you see fit rather than getting a quill with a fixed stem length and angle.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,319
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1438 Post(s)
Liked 1,092 Times
in
723 Posts
Likes For dsbrantjr:
#4
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,792
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3591 Post(s)
Liked 3,401 Times
in
1,935 Posts
Threaded headsets are still in production and readily available. Tange has several high quality, affordable models. Tall quill type stems to raise handlebars are also available (e.g. the Nitto "Technomic" series), as are threadless adapters that allow you to use modern, threadless style riser stems with a threaded headset.
#5
Senior Member
Something like this: https://velo-orange.com/products/vo-...s-stem-adaptor will allow you to use threadless stems on your quill headset. No point in starting over if your bike is in near-factory condition.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: socal
Posts: 4,267
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 883 Post(s)
Liked 824 Times
in
623 Posts
+1 with above; those old Trek frames are fine, and parts are readily available. Look at Rivendell; you can even get "Bullmoose" stem/bar combos.
#7
Senior Member
Nitto makes a stem that will raise your bars. https://www.rivbike.com/cart
#8
Senior Member
Chris King still makes a 1" threaded headset, but it costs 150 dollars. This is a good one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Shimano-105...oAAOSwK9lbu-NF I have two 19 year old Herons and I use this type of shimano headset. Mine are Ultegras.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 643 Times
in
364 Posts
Nitto makes a stem that will raise your bars. https://www.rivbike.com/cart
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Chicago Suburbs
Posts: 1,410
Bikes: GT Transeo & a half dozen ebike conversions.
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 340 Post(s)
Liked 276 Times
in
193 Posts
I bought a cheap 1" threaded suspension fork for my Trek 800, but needed about 4 cm more threads to fit the frame. I couldn't cut the plated steel, so I converted to a 1" threadless mount, as I had plenty of unthreaded tube on that fork. Goodbye to the quill and handlebars, but they were steel. Fork might be cheap, but works well for me on pavement.
I kept the rim brakes, although I had changed from center pull to cantilever. The new fork could accept a disk caliper, but I've found rim brakes to work as well as mechanical disks in dry weather.
I also had an inexpensive 500W motor kit in the back. Used on low pedal assist, it still has the elliptical crank and pedals pretty nice by my standards.
I kept the rim brakes, although I had changed from center pull to cantilever. The new fork could accept a disk caliper, but I've found rim brakes to work as well as mechanical disks in dry weather.
I also had an inexpensive 500W motor kit in the back. Used on low pedal assist, it still has the elliptical crank and pedals pretty nice by my standards.