Numbness in foot
#1
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Numbness in foot
An hour into my rides, my left foot (the ball of the foot area) goes numb and hurts to walk on for the rest of the day. Is this a problem with the placement of the cleat or is this a problem with the shoe itself? If it’s the cleat, how do I fix it? Do I move the cleat up or down?
#3
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It may be, Morton's neuroma … a painful condition that affects the ball of your foot, most commonly the area between your third and fourth toes. ... Morton's neuroma involves a thickening of the tissue around one of the nerves leading to your toes. This can cause a sharp, burning pain in the ball of your foot. Maybe, start with making sure the toe box is not constrictive. It may help some to adopt a more mid-foot riding position.
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To start with, move the cleats back which relieves pressure from your toes. Mine are as far back as they'll go on all my shoes.
If that doesn't work then look at measuring your feet for unnatural tilt which requires wedges. Most people don't even think about that before they start blowing money on new shoes and pedals. A good bike shop should be able to check your feet with a tool specifically for it. I would get foot pain so bad I would hardly be able to push the pedal down by mile 50. After a left foot wedge under my insole and moving my cleats back I never even think about my feet anymore, which is the goal.
If that doesn't work then look at measuring your feet for unnatural tilt which requires wedges. Most people don't even think about that before they start blowing money on new shoes and pedals. A good bike shop should be able to check your feet with a tool specifically for it. I would get foot pain so bad I would hardly be able to push the pedal down by mile 50. After a left foot wedge under my insole and moving my cleats back I never even think about my feet anymore, which is the goal.
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I personally went through several pairs of clipless shoes and fittings trying to fix a numbness problem in my right foot and they didn't help. Finally just switched to flat shoes and flat pedals (five ten flat bike shoes) and all the issues went away.
Another possibility in addition to others mentioned is that your feet would benefit from "wide" sized shoes.
Another possibility in addition to others mentioned is that your feet would benefit from "wide" sized shoes.
#7
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To start with, move the cleats back which relieves pressure from your toes. Mine are as far back as they'll go on all my shoes.
If that doesn't work then look at measuring your feet for unnatural tilt which requires wedges. Most people don't even think about that before they start blowing money on new shoes and pedals. A good bike shop should be able to check your feet with a tool specifically for it. I would get foot pain so bad I would hardly be able to push the pedal down by mile 50. After a left foot wedge under my insole and moving my cleats back I never even think about my feet anymore, which is the goal.
If that doesn't work then look at measuring your feet for unnatural tilt which requires wedges. Most people don't even think about that before they start blowing money on new shoes and pedals. A good bike shop should be able to check your feet with a tool specifically for it. I would get foot pain so bad I would hardly be able to push the pedal down by mile 50. After a left foot wedge under my insole and moving my cleats back I never even think about my feet anymore, which is the goal.
1. If you haven’t gotten insoles yet, get them. The ones included with the shoes are generally junk. If your foot isn’t properly supported, your foot won’t be stable in the shoe and will move around leading to pain. Shoe manufacturers put in insoles that are purposely low arch low support becasue that is the path of least resistance and they have no way to predict what your arches are like.
2. Try reducing the pressure on your pedals by increasing your cadence. You’ll supply the same power but you won’t put as much pressure on your feet.
Once you do the these things, then you can start in on the adjustments. Without the insoles and getting your feet anchored in the shoe with both arches properly supported, the measurment and tweaking can be an exercise in futility.
On #2, I had chronic pain in my feet. When I put in the work of increasing my cadence to increase my power numbers, imagine my surprise when the majority of the pain issues went away with the higher cadence. But it made sense, I was not pushing so hard on every stroke on that hard carbon fiber immovable sole.
J.
#8
I see you over there
I just went through the same numbness problem, but my cleats were positioned perfectly. My bike fitter explained that your feet swell while riding and my shoes were too tight. I loosened up my laces (i wear lg la84 shoes) and the problem went away.
#9
Peugeot PSV10 or somethin
Thick socks can also help a ton
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The above advice by Lazyass makes a lot of sense, but it might also be your saddle. My left foot used to fall asleep about ten miles in to any ride while riding an older bike with a 1990s Avocet saddle. Since then I switched to a Specialized saddle, and more recently a Fabric Scoop, both of which work much better. Foot occasionally goes numb with the Specialized saddle, but much later in the ride. The Fabric is great.
In short, make sure your saddle fits right, with your weight on your sit bones on the saddle. Otherwise the saddle can inhibit circulation to your leg and foot.
In short, make sure your saddle fits right, with your weight on your sit bones on the saddle. Otherwise the saddle can inhibit circulation to your leg and foot.