Hot r Not
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Maybe I am just too old school but adjusting the saddle position should be for the body placement over the cranks and not seat to handlebar reach. At least from the look of the bike, it seems like the owner is trying to compensate for the latter. It looks to me like the owner is trying to fit his bike in a position too aggressively (slammed stem) in the saddle to bar drop aspect for his current level of flexibility. I'd really like to see a picture of the rider on the bike to confirm this or to debunk my theory either way.
wears long socks
I wasn’t talking you you. You said it looks goofy to you and said what you’d do differently. I respect that. Saying I don’t understand bike fit when I do and saying my bike isn’t fit proberly with out ever seeing me ride it.... that’s what I’m saying has noting to do with hot or not.
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I personally like -17 degree stems, and that already looks slammed. As far as the seat angle, its a few degrees down from where it is commonly set up but the power saddle is supposed to kick up in the rear accentuating the nose down look. Only the nose of the sadle should be used for levelling and its for aggressive fits. The seatpost as already has been mentioned makes it a not hot, I also have to ride with the seat pretty far forward according to my fitter so I run zero setback seatposts because they look better, which is what this thread is about
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Just got my Vamoots RSL / ETap / Belgium Plus - White Industries:
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Pretty much stock right now, but looking to upgrade wheels to something in the 40-50mm depth range soon.
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The geometry alone makes this hot but the discs are not
For The Fun of It
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Who names a bike after a flushing toilet?
Ride more, eat less
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Completed my built, put about 22 miles on it today.. internal cable routing is rather noisy without internal lining... frame/fork/seatpost/stem/headset/BB kit cost less than that Pinarello seatpost.
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My joy
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That’s a beautiful bike. Doesn’t look comfortable, but it’s damn pretty for sure.
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Ride more, eat less
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The looks is deceiving, because the hoods are actually only 1/2" lower than my regular road bike, but still 1 1/2" higher than my TT bike.
I designate this bike as my flatland bike, majority of rides are going to be flat, with minimal elevation change. where the aero frame advantage can really benefit.
Frame looks big, because the top tube/headtube junction is normally where the top of the stem is, without any spacers on the steertube of the fork; therefore head tube looks long, frame looks bigger.
My seat height was set low for initial test ride.
@cat0020, what bar is that?
-Tim-
-Tim-
The large flat area on the bartop is really comfortable and ergonomic, thumbs & index finger falls right where they need to be among the bends of the handlebar.
Stiffness of the bar is not as others, but I'm not sprinting among cat.1 racers, so it does just fine as my flatland bike.
The only drawback is the routing of the cable housings.. internal cable housing were PITA to do and cables can bind within the internal route, too a long time to setup proper.
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super hot.
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It's like the bastard child of a Look and a Venge
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+1 for Moots
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Yes, saddle positioning should be relative to the BB/crankset, but we don't know that it was determined in some other fashion. You're making an assumption that it's being used to shorten the reach, but I can assure you that there are individuals out there that need/prefer a zero-setback post - that's why zero-setback posts exist. Also, since many bike models have the same ST angle across multiple frame sizes, sizing up or sizing down isn't necessarily going to change the need for setback/zero-setback since, again, position is set relative to the BB.
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who taught you how to wrap handlebars? Almost all of your bikes need some help in that department.
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If you rode 22 miles on this bike, why is the setup tab still on the front derailleur?