Ironman freewheel Change Help
#1
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Thread Starter
Ironman freewheel Change Help
I want to change the original 13-24 freewheel to a new 13-28 shimano freewheel. Can I use the freewheel shown in the pictures, if so how does it go on? Did I buy the wrong freewheel? I got the old freewheel off without issues as shown. Thanks in advance.
Hub with freewheel removed
New freewheel
Shimano hub
Otherside of new freewheel
Hub with freewheel removed
New freewheel
Shimano hub
Otherside of new freewheel
#2
Senior Member
Well what ya got there is two different types , the bike had a Freehub which takes a cassette, and the replacement you bought is a Freewheel, two different technologies, IMHO the Freehub is the better way to go, but there is one issue with that freehub. it is a earlier Shimano unit that the smallest cog is threaded on, this was changed with 7 speed or Hyper Glide (HG) i believe they were Ultra Glide (UG) Cassettes and they are not that common anymore.
Maybe someone else here has a source to get the correct Cassette you need.
There is a another option of replacing that UG Freehub with a HG one. but need a donor HG Hub to remove the Freehub body from to transplant.
Maybe someone else here has a source to get the correct Cassette you need.
There is a another option of replacing that UG Freehub with a HG one. but need a donor HG Hub to remove the Freehub body from to transplant.
#3
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^^^ Agreed. Your hub is a Uniglide cassette hub, not a freewheel hub. Uniglide was the predecessor to Hyperglide, which appeared in 1989 or thereabouts. Uniglide cassettes are getting rare since they haven't been made since then.
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Send new freewheel back. Order new Shimano 7 speed HG freehub body from the place of your choice. There are videos online on how to change out freehub body. Order new 13-28 HG cassette. Install.
#5
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You're not going to have much luck getting a new Uniglide cassette. So, plan on swapping that Uniglide freehub out with a Hyperglide HG freehub. The 7 speed HG freehub is a pretty common part. But, trying to decipher Shimano parts catalogs can be difficult. I did it on a Centurion LeMans a few years ago. So, it's not impossible.
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Just to add my 2 cents.
It is relatively easy to build a HG cassette that works on a UG freehub. A 13T UG threaded sprocket is still needed to secure the cassette on the pictured hub. As an added bonus, if you purchase a 9 speed cassette (SRAM, Shimano, Sunrace, etc.) the 9 speed spacers can be utilized to create an 8 speed cassette. You'll probably need to go to friction shifting, but that is easy to do.
Several things are important: First, make certain not to misplace your 13T UG threaded sprocket. If you need another I probably have a spare.
Second, purchase either a 7 speed HG or 9 speed HG cassette where all the sprockets are held together with a screw(s) or rivets. Don't buy one where some or all of the sprockets are held together on a spider. The reason is that you will need the spacers.
Third, on each HG sprocket there is one large spline which needs to be ground to a size which fits in the UG slots on the UG freehub. A Dremel tool does the job nicely. Mark the ground down spline with a Sharpie so you can easily align the sprockets on the UG freehub.
Finally, mount the HG sprockets on the UG freehub, using the Sharpie marks, line up all the sprockets in the same slot. Use the spacers either from the 7 speed or the 9 speed. Secure the cassette with the threaded 13T and Bob's your pastor!
It is relatively easy to build a HG cassette that works on a UG freehub. A 13T UG threaded sprocket is still needed to secure the cassette on the pictured hub. As an added bonus, if you purchase a 9 speed cassette (SRAM, Shimano, Sunrace, etc.) the 9 speed spacers can be utilized to create an 8 speed cassette. You'll probably need to go to friction shifting, but that is easy to do.
Several things are important: First, make certain not to misplace your 13T UG threaded sprocket. If you need another I probably have a spare.
Second, purchase either a 7 speed HG or 9 speed HG cassette where all the sprockets are held together with a screw(s) or rivets. Don't buy one where some or all of the sprockets are held together on a spider. The reason is that you will need the spacers.
Third, on each HG sprocket there is one large spline which needs to be ground to a size which fits in the UG slots on the UG freehub. A Dremel tool does the job nicely. Mark the ground down spline with a Sharpie so you can easily align the sprockets on the UG freehub.
Finally, mount the HG sprockets on the UG freehub, using the Sharpie marks, line up all the sprockets in the same slot. Use the spacers either from the 7 speed or the 9 speed. Secure the cassette with the threaded 13T and Bob's your pastor!
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Last edited by pastorbobnlnh; 02-19-19 at 05:36 AM.
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As suggested your best bet is simply replacing the freehub body on your hub, with the more modern 7sp Hyperglide style which uses a lockring to affix the cassette rather than a threaded cog. It can be a bit tricky since you need to replace the cone and dust seal on the drive side too.
Where do you live? Depending where you are located odds are you can't sling a cat without hitting a C&Ver willing to help. NOT THAT I ADVOCATE SLINGING CATS IT IS JUST AN EXPRESSION.
Cassette V Freewheel
Uniglide, like you have V Hyperglide what is currently in use.
The Hyperglide (HG) uses a lockring to hold it all together
Where do you live? Depending where you are located odds are you can't sling a cat without hitting a C&Ver willing to help. NOT THAT I ADVOCATE SLINGING CATS IT IS JUST AN EXPRESSION.
Cassette V Freewheel
Uniglide, like you have V Hyperglide what is currently in use.
The Hyperglide (HG) uses a lockring to hold it all together
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Holy cow, we're killin' this guy! (But all the advice is good.)
@Kars, if you want to keep it really simple, PM me.
I'll hook you up, swap you a wheelset (1055) for yours.
Then, you can change cogs all you want, sort of like plug 'n' play.
If there's a conflict with 6sp/7sp, heck, I'll swap you the whole group.
We need your Ironman on the road, thrilling the unwashed masses and reducing adoring fans to quivering gelatin.
Ironman Empire aims to amaze, woo and seduce, not confuse.
@Kars, if you want to keep it really simple, PM me.
I'll hook you up, swap you a wheelset (1055) for yours.
Then, you can change cogs all you want, sort of like plug 'n' play.
If there's a conflict with 6sp/7sp, heck, I'll swap you the whole group.
We need your Ironman on the road, thrilling the unwashed masses and reducing adoring fans to quivering gelatin.
Ironman Empire aims to amaze, woo and seduce, not confuse.
Last edited by RobbieTunes; 02-19-19 at 10:47 AM.
#12
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Does not Sunrace make and offer one?
Perhaps I said "freewheel" when I meant "13-28 UG(h!) cassette with outer cog used as a lock ring that, now that I'm corrected, appears to be unobtanium."
Thanks for keeping me straight.
Perhaps I said "freewheel" when I meant "13-28 UG(h!) cassette with outer cog used as a lock ring that, now that I'm corrected, appears to be unobtanium."
Thanks for keeping me straight.
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But a replacement HG/UG hybrid cassette can be relatively easily made. See my post above.
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#15
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You first have to buy a 7 speed Hyperglide (HG) cassette and then do this which is what previous posters have suggested.
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
This seems to be simplest solution, and I believe this is the part you need: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FH-RM.../dp/B00DXF4J8I
#17
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I like the challenge and so I plan studying all this good information thoroughly and then and only then start buying what I need. No more blind purchases without knowing again. I will try and send the freewheel back , luckily it was not that expensive about $22,
#19
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I'm curious about which wheelset the OP got with that Ironman. I've kicked around the idea of trying an 8-speed freehub rear wheel to try with something like the MicroShift 11-32 or 12-32 8-speed cassettes. I have one on my Univega and it's a great value for about $15 when Nashbar was blowing 'em out late last year. I should have bought two.
#20
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You first have to buy a 7 speed Hyperglide (HG) cassette and then do this which is what previous posters have suggested.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on1qxTCf2dE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on1qxTCf2dE
#21
Senior Member
You have the '88 or '89 master?
I've learned through trial and error, considering Centurion Ironman came in screw on freewheel, Uniglide, and my '89 Master came in Hyperglide.
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I don't know if this helps or confuses, but you can also use a 1.37x24T bottom bracket lockring to hold the cogs on a Uniglide freehub instead of the Uniglide-specific threaded smallest cog.
A standard track cog also has the same threading, but I can't vouch for the shifting.
A standard track cog also has the same threading, but I can't vouch for the shifting.
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I don't know if this helps or confuses, but you can also use a 1.37x24T bottom bracket lockring to hold the cogs on a Uniglide freehub instead of the Uniglide-specific threaded smallest cog.
A standard track cog also has the same threading, but I can't vouch for the shifting.
A standard track cog also has the same threading, but I can't vouch for the shifting.
So you would have to downgrade to just six cogs or use narrower 9s cogs and spacers.
I've been able to convert steel HG cogs to fit on UG freehub bodies with just a few heavy swipes of a sharp, 1/4" diameter chainsaw file, holding the cog in a bench vise.
No need for precision here since the splines in the cogs do not need to contact every spline on the freehub body!
So I think it will be easiest/best for the OP to use the existing 13t UG cog to hold on the six largest cogs of a 7s HG cassette.
But be sure to orient the correct color spacers in their correct positions. The 2-3 spacing (between the 2nd and 3rd-smallest cogs) is thicker than the others in a Shimano 7s cassette or freewheel, and the spacer is typically more black versus grey in color. This is to improve shifting to the smallest cogs, and also agrees with the 7s index shifter's specific detent spacing.