banana rat

Just for the record, I've searched the posts on here and the web. I live on an island in the Pacific and the conditions here are very harsh on the bikes including the chain, with rainy, salty, windy conditions. I have to coat the whole chain due to these conditions. I've tried White Lightning, and Pedros Synthetic, which worked great back in the states but here results are not so good. Anyone know of a lube that will work better in these conditions? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

rhenning

I would use Boeing T-9. It is used by Boeing on their aircraft to prevent corrosion and lubrication including in salty conditions. Most bikes shops carry it. Roger

FBinNY 

Not to blow my own horn (I make the stuff) but the specific question warrants me doing so.

Read the reviews on Chain-L, and you'll see that one of it's properties is excellent service life in harsh and wet conditions.

I keep 2 bicycles in Cozumel MX, where the combination of near 100% humidity, salt air, and sea water flooding on streets is death on bikes. I use my own stuff, and never have any chain issues --- the rest of the bike isn't as lucky, and corrosion takes a toll on them.

jyl

I ride in Oregon, so during the winter the conditions are constantly rainy. Not salty, though. Chain-L works well for me, lasts a long time in wet conditions.

Ronsonic 

I'm going to also recommend Boeshield T-9. About the most durable rust preventative and lubricant I've met.

Plimogz

I have found Chain-L to do a better job of keeping rust off my chain than T-9. On the other hand, I get better mileage out of my chains using T-9 than Chain-L.

katzenfinch

T-9 is the best I’ve used.

Andrew R Stewart 

I've always felt that how you maintain your chain/drivetrain is about more then just which lube you use or how often (or not) you relube. So given the conditions described I suggest frequent cleaning (and that's another debate- how to clean) of all the drivetrain (and other components too) and using the lube you are comfy with between cleanings. Like I've said before- I don't care which soap you use when you bathe, that you do so as you need to is the issue. Andy.

banana rat

Well I was going to try one of each T-9 and Chain-L but T-9 will not ship APO so I ordered 2 Chain-L's.

Bike Gremlin

Synthetic motor oil. Heavy (20w60, or 20w50) in warmer days, thinner for winter (below freezing temp): 0w30, or 5w40.

Works fine for me during winter time when there's lots of salt and snow on the road. The side plates of chain do get spots of rust, but the chain itself is protected and doesn't rust.

I'd give motor oil a try since it's practically free if you change your motor oil for your car, or know any mechanic, or people who do so - since all you need is less than 50 ml for a few months at least, so you can give it a try.

Phlorida

+1 for Chain L. I live on a barrier island on the east coast of Florida with lots of salt. Nothing that I have used to date, including T-9, lasts as long between applications.

speedy25

Another + for Chain L, especially for your conditions. A -1 for motor oil. It just doesnt stay attached to whatever you put it on.

-SP

rekmeyata

I would not use any motor oil mixes, motor oil has detergents in them that can corrode a chain and the cassette.

There is a new product for bicycle chains but it isn't new, it's actually been around a long time till someone recently scratched their head and wonder why it wouldn't work for chains, the stuff is called Purple Extreme which was made initially for use on offshore oil rigs to prevent corrosion due to salt water environment. You can read about it here: https://www.quora.com/What-type-of-b...n-lube-is-best and can be bought on Amazon, see: https://www.amazon.com/Purple-Extreme.../dp/B002OHUQGU

Whatever you use you'll probably need to clean and relube a lot more frequently than people living in more suitable environments would have too.

I've never tried that Purple stuff so I have no experience with it, but the reviews have been good.

SlowJoeCrow

Have you tried attacking the problem from the other side with a stainless steel or plated steel chain? An inherently more corrosion resistant chain would certainly help with the salt water issues.

Hermes1

I often wondered about this. Understanding that everyone seems to have their preferences and there are different types of lube, ie. liquid, wax etc. it seems the lube's of today have gotten so much better it would seem if the chain and cogs are kept clean almost any lube will do the job well.

Andrew R Stewart 

If any one has had the chance to take apart an "classic" English/Dutch bike with a completely enclosed chain box you can see the benefits to keeping a chain clean. So too with a SA AW3 rear hub. IME the usual issues with SA AWs is that the hub is either never lubed after leaving the factory or that the lube has gummed up with age. Any lubed component suffers from exposure to dirt/grime regardless of the lube used. Andy.

rekmeyata

Good point, there are stainless steel chains on the market from Wipperman, as well as a KMC RB chain with special zinc coating and chrome that's suppose to protect against rust 500 times longer than a conventional chain; my only question regarding the two chains is which one would work better the stainless or the coated chrome? I think the winner would be stainless, what say the rest of you? Combine a good chain with the Purple lube and you shouldn't have much issue with corrosion ever again...however, if you replace the chain every 4,500 miles or so even a normal el cheapo chain should last that long.

Plimogz

This speaks to a likely reason why I have been so satisfied with my experience using Boeshield T-9 this past season: it attracts much less dirt into the drivetrain than the oil-based lubes I was using before, which will not surprise anyone, I expect. But more importantly, it is pretty much a solvent when applied, and therefore cleans up after itself rather well. The net result is that I can use it both to clean the chain, displace water and flush out the insides before leaving it to set overnight, ready to go back on the bike.

rekmeyata

You can get T9 cheaper at woodworking supply stores then at an LBS or a online bike store. However this stuff from what I've read is nothing but glorified wax, and it only lasts about 1 to 2 rides, or about 80 miles depending on conditions. I like Rock N Roll Gold better for longevity, while I have ridden for 400 miles on a one lube of this stuff, I did read later that to keep the chain at its cleanest was to lube it once a week. I also use ProLink Extreme but it gets dirty too fast for my taste however it is a wet lube so I use it on my touring bike. I have a friend who swears by Dumonde lube but I've never tried it.

Plimogz

You are right about T-9's short lived lubricant properties; I will not deny that.

It may be that I am rotating 3 chains on my cassette to even out their wear and maintain proper shifting; but swapping out a chain after a hundred miles to clean and lube it with T-9, leave it to cure and swap in a previously prepared chain is not that bad to me.

I am not saying that t9 is the be-all, end-all lube; I am simply happy with the chain wear-life I am seeing from using it. Particularly given, as you say, its quite affordable cost when purchased in large volume through hobbyist channels.

FBinNY 

I don't think that most riders would consider rotating chains every 100 miles a practical or acceptable approach. For some, that would mean after every ride. For a few it would mean a pit stop en route.

Not that there's a line, but at some point good maintenance morphs into obsession.

Jeff Wills

Interesting. Kwaj? My wife lived on Kwajalein when she was a teenager. Her dad was an engineer for McDonnell-Douglas.

IIRC from photos they've shared with me, bikes tend to turn to balls of rust in a year or two.

banana rat

Yes sir, they (bikes) just dissolve in no time here.

Bike Gremlin

This hasn't been my experience. I've been using motor oil for ages now. Didn't see any measurable difference between that and commercial, 10 times more expensive, bike chain marketed lubes.

Besides, every motor oil, except racing specific ones, has rust inhibition additives in it as well.

Gonemad

This seem counter intuitive. If it can corrode bicycle parts, it'll corrode engine parts just as well. Am I missing something here?

Though motor oil is as cheap as it gets for a chain lube, IMO it is also about as messy as it gets (but definitely better than nothing at all...it's been a "life saver" for me on a few occasions).