My Raleigh Super Course TT summer project - any/all advice and recommendations.
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My Raleigh Super Course TT summer project - any/all advice and recommendations.
My current project for the summer is the lovely Super Course TT that I picked up a while back. The original Flamboyant Red paint is gorgeous in most areas but there were a few locations on the frame and fork where the paint was badly scraped off and bare metal was showing. An excellent auto painting shop in the local area made me a touch of bottle as close as they could to the original color for $12. It looks great from 10 feet away and in some spots it is better than others but it still is not exact. That being said I am happy with the touch up results. It was only my second hand at this and the areas were much larger than on the first bike.
So I do want to keep the original Weinmann calipers and levers which are in great condition along with the Carlton branded white hoods. I will just get new Koolstop pads. The crankset was shot as were the Raleigh pedals and to be honest I wanted to replace the cottered crank anyway. I had this Biopace crankset and BB in the bin so I installed them to see how it would look. I have also never used Biopace before so I wanted to get some feedback. I do have a Sugino crank as well as what I think is a Sakae Custom. I also have a Sugino triple if I recall. I haven't chosen the RD and FD's yet but I was leaning toward a Suntour VGT Luxe rear and the front I do have a Suntour AR which worked just fine for me on another build. I do also have a Shimano Light Action short cage if that works. I have a few options for a wheel set but I will post those pictures and ask for recommendations when the time comes in the near future.
Also, what are your opinions on handlebar tape an the housing color?
Thank you in advance as always. I have learnt so much through this Forum and the good people that are members here.
P.S. I should have taken photos of the starting point.
So I do want to keep the original Weinmann calipers and levers which are in great condition along with the Carlton branded white hoods. I will just get new Koolstop pads. The crankset was shot as were the Raleigh pedals and to be honest I wanted to replace the cottered crank anyway. I had this Biopace crankset and BB in the bin so I installed them to see how it would look. I have also never used Biopace before so I wanted to get some feedback. I do have a Sugino crank as well as what I think is a Sakae Custom. I also have a Sugino triple if I recall. I haven't chosen the RD and FD's yet but I was leaning toward a Suntour VGT Luxe rear and the front I do have a Suntour AR which worked just fine for me on another build. I do also have a Shimano Light Action short cage if that works. I have a few options for a wheel set but I will post those pictures and ask for recommendations when the time comes in the near future.
Also, what are your opinions on handlebar tape an the housing color?
Thank you in advance as always. I have learnt so much through this Forum and the good people that are members here.
P.S. I should have taken photos of the starting point.
Last edited by greg3rd48; 06-19-15 at 02:29 PM.
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I'm currently putzing around with a '73 Super Course in the coffee color. I decided to go with white tape and white housing to go with the Carlton hoods so we'll see how that all looks when it arrives in the mail. Originally was going to order Newbaums white cloth but figured that would look good for about two hours and then get gross. So I ordered white Fizik.
Here was mine as bought before being taken down to frame only.
Here was mine as bought before being taken down to frame only.
Last edited by toavii; 06-19-15 at 02:49 PM.
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looks fine. thanks for posting.
are head and shell both 24t or is head 26t?
will enjoy following as she moves forward.
colours, me vote - white bar wrap and white or silver-grey housing. no black please.
are head and shell both 24t or is head 26t?
will enjoy following as she moves forward.
colours, me vote - white bar wrap and white or silver-grey housing. no black please.
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toavii Nice SC! Keep us updated on your build also. Did you measure your seat post? I measured mine as 26.3 and I do not want to use the original hollow post with the clamp. I am thinking of replacing it with a Kalloy 26.2 or something like that.
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Thanks! The BB is definitely the common size since it took the BB from the Biospace with no issue. However, the headset was a weird size it seems. It has free bearings which were shot so I figured I would replace them with a standard 1" caged bearing ring. Wrong. The ring is too big so I went to the LBS and picked up replacement bearings to use. This works great. Now could you tell me what the issue is? This is my first time working on a Raleigh and I was a little surprised that the headset was a different size.
I like the vote for white tape but I want to be sure that the tape I buy does not sully easily. I also have white Jagwire housing with silver braiding that I used on a grey Fuji Del Rey earlier in the year and it looked great on that bike. What do you think?
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toavii Nice SC! Keep us updated on your build also. Did you measure your seat post? I measured mine as 26.3 and I do not want to use the original hollow post with the clamp. I am thinking of replacing it with a Kalloy 26.2 or something like that.
The post is a 26.3. The bike is going to be a spare bike around home if I keep it so I probably won't replace it. At $100 I couldn't resist it given it has Campagnolo crankset/RD/FD/BB/freewheel/shifters and an upgraded Maillard Professional Team Issue wheelset. Just another project for me to do when the gal binge watches Housewives or something...
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That sounds like it is going to look sweet! I can't wait to see more. I try to wrench during the scarce moments that my 6 month old is sleeping, I am off and mom is at work. Once a week and I feel fortunate.
Do you think a 26.2 post would work? A 26.3 seems to be very uncommon...
Do you think a 26.2 post would work? A 26.3 seems to be very uncommon...
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wrt hs -
these are raleigh proprietary design and are threaded 26tpi rather than the more standard (today) 24tpi. also, they have "u" races so are less self-centreing than others. this means facing of head tube and milling of fork crown race seat even more critical than with others. they take loose balls of 5/32" with 25 balls per stack. bike models from sc downwards received the 26tpi proprietary hs and models from gs upwards received the 24tpi set (aletet or campag).
one other wrinkle - steerers on 26tpi machines are typically unkeyed so headsets come with no lockwasher to hold adjustment. this means locknut and adjustable race must be torqued tightly against each other if the adjustment is to hold. this design has a frequent problem of working loose. on the raleigh bicycles i work on i hand cut a keyway into the steerer with a file which has a square edge. the keyway permits the fitment of a toothed lockwasher which contributes to easier adjustment of bearings and much better retention of adjustment.
shells - in general, if a raleigh has a 70 or 71 mm shell it will be threaded 26tpi. if 68mm (or smaller) it will be threaded 24tpi (iso/bsc).
pillar size - bicycle measures 26.3mm as this is the metric translation of what in reality is a fractional size. if it were me i would ream it out with an expandable blade reamer to 26.4mm so that i knew the interior was truly round and smooth such as not to gall a quality alloy pillar. also the the 26.4 size opens your horizons as to pillar choices.
tip - if it is doable for you i would suggest going with a traditional pattern, non-aero, chainset as this fits in with the frame better from an aesthetic standpoint.
these are raleigh proprietary design and are threaded 26tpi rather than the more standard (today) 24tpi. also, they have "u" races so are less self-centreing than others. this means facing of head tube and milling of fork crown race seat even more critical than with others. they take loose balls of 5/32" with 25 balls per stack. bike models from sc downwards received the 26tpi proprietary hs and models from gs upwards received the 24tpi set (aletet or campag).
one other wrinkle - steerers on 26tpi machines are typically unkeyed so headsets come with no lockwasher to hold adjustment. this means locknut and adjustable race must be torqued tightly against each other if the adjustment is to hold. this design has a frequent problem of working loose. on the raleigh bicycles i work on i hand cut a keyway into the steerer with a file which has a square edge. the keyway permits the fitment of a toothed lockwasher which contributes to easier adjustment of bearings and much better retention of adjustment.
shells - in general, if a raleigh has a 70 or 71 mm shell it will be threaded 26tpi. if 68mm (or smaller) it will be threaded 24tpi (iso/bsc).
pillar size - bicycle measures 26.3mm as this is the metric translation of what in reality is a fractional size. if it were me i would ream it out with an expandable blade reamer to 26.4mm so that i knew the interior was truly round and smooth such as not to gall a quality alloy pillar. also the the 26.4 size opens your horizons as to pillar choices.
tip - if it is doable for you i would suggest going with a traditional pattern, non-aero, chainset as this fits in with the frame better from an aesthetic standpoint.
Last edited by juvela; 06-19-15 at 04:02 PM. Reason: addition
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That sounds like it is going to look sweet! I can't wait to see more. I try to wrench during the scarce moments that my 6 month old is sleeping, I am off and mom is at work. Once a week and I feel fortunate.
Do you think a 26.2 post would work? A 26.3 seems to be very uncommon...
Do you think a 26.2 post would work? A 26.3 seems to be very uncommon...
Congrats on the infant -- our grandson is half that age, and we have been his daycare this week, while his parents are at work.
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
#10
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Your possible choice of DRs is a good one, those Suntour GT are great.
With that red, I would go with white cable covers as well. Those Carlton hoods will be with you always, they are indestructible, you have a nice project for this summer.
With that red, I would go with white cable covers as well. Those Carlton hoods will be with you always, they are indestructible, you have a nice project for this summer.
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Interesting bike. My understanding is that there were a few of these entry level racer bikes during the bike boom era - I think Peugeot nada similar model: otherwise fairly plain frames and components, but tubular wheels. Pretty rare. Are you sticking with tubulars?
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I agree. White bar tape seems to be the overwhelming favorite. What type did you use? I do not want the tape to be emblazoned with logos. I also have a pair of Suntour barcons which I can use for this. How do you like that set up?
I really like the TT just because it is much less common. The original tubulars are no good but I did save the high flange Normandy hubs to use for a future build. I am going with clinchers and leaning toward 700c to have more options. Any recommendations?
Last edited by greg3rd48; 06-20-15 at 07:03 AM.
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I do like the look of the white tape and hoods, but I went with black -- sprint/half taping shown here, now regular full taping -- because of concerns about showing the dirt. I might try white next time.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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If voting is still ongoing for tape and cable housing colors, I think black would go very nicely with the red.
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wrt hs -
these are raleigh proprietary design and are threaded 26tpi rather than the more standard (today) 24tpi. also, they have "u" races so are less self-centreing than others. this means facing of head tube and milling of fork crown race seat even more critical than with others. they take loose balls of 5/32" with 25 balls per stack. bike models from sc downwards received the 26tpi proprietary hs and models from gs upwards received the 24tpi set (aletet or campag).
one other wrinkle - steerers on 26tpi machines are typically unkeyed so headsets come with no lockwasher to hold adjustment. this means locknut and adjustable race must be torqued tightly against each other if the adjustment is to hold. this design has a frequent problem of working loose. on the raleigh bicycles i work on i hand cut a keyway into the steerer with a file which has a square edge. the keyway permits the fitment of a toothed lockwasher which contributes to easier adjustment of bearings and much better retention of adjustment.
shells - in general, if a raleigh has a 70 or 71 mm shell it will be threaded 26tpi. if 68mm (or smaller) it will be threaded 24tpi (iso/bsc).
pillar size - bicycle measures 26.3mm as this is the metric translation of what in reality is a fractional size. if it were me i would ream it out with an expandable blade reamer to 26.4mm so that i knew the interior was truly round and smooth such as not to gall a quality alloy pillar. also the the 26.4 size opens your horizons as to pillar choices.
tip - if it is doable for you i would suggest going with a traditional pattern, non-aero, chainset as this fits in with the frame better from an aesthetic standpoint.
these are raleigh proprietary design and are threaded 26tpi rather than the more standard (today) 24tpi. also, they have "u" races so are less self-centreing than others. this means facing of head tube and milling of fork crown race seat even more critical than with others. they take loose balls of 5/32" with 25 balls per stack. bike models from sc downwards received the 26tpi proprietary hs and models from gs upwards received the 24tpi set (aletet or campag).
one other wrinkle - steerers on 26tpi machines are typically unkeyed so headsets come with no lockwasher to hold adjustment. this means locknut and adjustable race must be torqued tightly against each other if the adjustment is to hold. this design has a frequent problem of working loose. on the raleigh bicycles i work on i hand cut a keyway into the steerer with a file which has a square edge. the keyway permits the fitment of a toothed lockwasher which contributes to easier adjustment of bearings and much better retention of adjustment.
shells - in general, if a raleigh has a 70 or 71 mm shell it will be threaded 26tpi. if 68mm (or smaller) it will be threaded 24tpi (iso/bsc).
pillar size - bicycle measures 26.3mm as this is the metric translation of what in reality is a fractional size. if it were me i would ream it out with an expandable blade reamer to 26.4mm so that i knew the interior was truly round and smooth such as not to gall a quality alloy pillar. also the the 26.4 size opens your horizons as to pillar choices.
tip - if it is doable for you i would suggest going with a traditional pattern, non-aero, chainset as this fits in with the frame better from an aesthetic standpoint.
but the headset binds when it turns to the right, i've had a shop look at it, but they couldn't find a reason. I believe the headset needs to be refaced.. sound like a plan? should i reuse the old headset with new bearings?
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Why not just replace the races and bearings?
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while you have the fork out i would make two suggestions:
a) file a keyway in the steerer so you can add a toothed washer. this will allow for easier hs adjusting and better adjustment retention.
b) inspect steerer for straightness. this can be easily done with a straightedge. also look carefully at the area just above the fork crown race seat. when there is deformation this is the most common spot.
when repacking, make sure to fit twenty-five ball bearings per race, no more or less.
question for the raleigh experts:
does the sc tt have a geometry differing from that of the regular sc, and if so how so?
have never had occasion to run across one so i need to ask.
Last edited by juvela; 06-26-15 at 01:19 PM. Reason: addition
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What tire recommendations do the fine members have? I have a spare 700c wheelset with Dura Ace hubs and 6 speed freewheel and nice older Mavic rims. I want to run 28's or 32's and I need tires that are durable for treacherous NYC potholes and glass. Speed would be great too.
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Panaracer Pasela PT in 28 or 32 would be swell.
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Cool. @jeirvine I use Paselas on my 27 1/4 rims and really like them. Thanks.
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question for the raleigh experts regarding these sc tt machines -
have looked at the factory catalogue and specificaton table for the 1973 sc tt and it make no mention of frame geometry. is it the same as the regular sc? is wheelbase any shorter? head and seat angles any more upright?
was a bit surprised to note that the bicycle takes a 750 rear caliper. if frame geometry were more racelike than a regular sc would have expected a 610.
look forward to the responses of the experts...thank you.
have looked at the factory catalogue and specificaton table for the 1973 sc tt and it make no mention of frame geometry. is it the same as the regular sc? is wheelbase any shorter? head and seat angles any more upright?
was a bit surprised to note that the bicycle takes a 750 rear caliper. if frame geometry were more racelike than a regular sc would have expected a 610.
look forward to the responses of the experts...thank you.
Last edited by juvela; 07-01-15 at 11:40 AM. Reason: correction