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Old 10-07-18, 07:49 PM
  #26  
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Don't expect the first gearing modification to be a final solution. As your fitness, knowledge of gearing, and willingness to get your hands dirty and experiment develops, you will travel a journey of increasing gearing awareness and cycling competence. The tips given above are good starting points. Don't know if anyone mentioned it yet, but consider a half-step system. Especially with a granny gear on a triple front, these are wonderful for keeping your cadence in the sweet spot during cruise, while providing ample range for hills.
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Old 10-07-18, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DonRocinante

That’s another point, salamandrine. When I am riding in a group, I am in my top gear while the other guys have three and four years left to go. If they want to start turning it out, I have to really step it out to keep up. When I’m in my top gear and they are not, our cadence is the same. When they hit their top gear, I am almost at a sprint just to keep up. I am not used to being thie slow guy. This bothers the hell out of me.
Don't ride in your top gear. You'll go faster learning to "spin" your pedals at a higher cadence. Going from a 53 to 50 won't accomplish any benefit.
Ride in your 53 if you want, and shift the rear up a few easier gears.

Many riders find that pedaling at about 90 rpm is the "sweet spot".
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Old 10-07-18, 08:10 PM
  #28  
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Did you ever drive a manual transmission car ?
Would you drive in 5th gear all day long, with the engine lugging at 500 rpm ?

No, you shift gears, keeping the engine at a happy 1500-2500 rpm on average, depending on conditions.
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Old 10-08-18, 06:36 AM
  #29  
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Basic training. Do what you can do and do a lot of it. Attempting to do what you cannot do should be done in limited doses. Doing too much of what you can't do - hammering big gears - only leads to injuries and frustration.

Small cog of 13 teeth sounds right for a '91 Trek. Back then the big boys and the pros were using a 12 tooth small. There was still recognition that many pros and nearly all amateurs simply did not have the muscle to push a 12 around. Remember Eddy Merckx used a top of 53x13. It did not make him slow. Modern riders simply pedal at slower rpm. In one of OP's queries he asks about being efficient. Pretty much all coaches in vintage era would have told you a faster spin with lower gears is always better. Stories of low gear feats were always popular. For example Sean Kelly won most of his sprints in his favorite gear of 52x15. Kelly would laugh at anyone told him he needed an 11. If you ride a vintage bike may as well strive for vintage rpm.
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Old 10-08-18, 07:12 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by DonRocinante

Awesome! Thank you, masi61 for corroborating what I was assuming were the correct specs! It’s a relief to know what I am looking for & that it is actually possible to do. It is great appreciated! By the way, just for confirmation, does this look like what I need?


If your 52T big ring means you have a top gear or two that you never use, you're on the right track here. An RX100 double will be 130 BCD. I did the same thing with my 105 crank.
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Old 10-08-18, 07:26 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine
^^^ maybe try a different approach to training. I notice people don't really do as many miles nowadays. In ye olde days, racers would often do like 400+ miles a week for a couple months to start the year (pros more than that), pretty much all in the small chainring (42). Then, drop your mileage and start doing speedwork, intervals, races, hard group rides. It's time consuming to train this way, but it does have the side benefit of strengthening all your tendons and what not before you start abusing them with hill climbs and all out sprints. Plus it will make you very fast.

Do watch your heart rate because overtraining can happen.
Okay, so it’s not my gears as much as it is my “engine?” So far most of what I’m hearing is either change either the front or the rear or both OR train better. I really appreciate these points of view & will think it over while im training in these specific areas. I’m a huge fan of training & obviously didn’t have to change any gear when I ran. I just had to work on my engine. Thanks again!
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Old 10-08-18, 07:28 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by old's'cool
Don't expect the first gearing modification to be a final solution. As your fitness, knowledge of gearing, and willingness to get your hands dirty and experiment develops, you will travel a journey of increasing gearing awareness and cycling competence. The tips given above are good starting points. Don't know if anyone mentioned it yet, but consider a half-step system. Especially with a granny gear on a triple front, these are wonderful for keeping your cadence in the sweet spot during cruise, while providing ample range for hills.
Great advice, old’s’cool. Thanks a million.
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Old 10-08-18, 07:29 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01
Did you ever drive a manual transmission car ?
Would you drive in 5th gear all day long, with the engine lugging at 500 rpm ?

No, you shift gears, keeping the engine at a happy 1500-2500 rpm on average, depending on conditions.
Okay, Homebrew01. Great points that I am hearing loudly & clearly. Thank you
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Old 10-08-18, 07:34 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 63rickert
Basic training. Do what you can do and do a lot of it. Attempting to do what you cannot do should be done in limited doses. Doing too much of what you can't do - hammering big gears - only leads to injuries and frustration.

Small cog of 13 teeth sounds right for a '91 Trek. Back then the big boys and the pros were using a 12 tooth small. There was still recognition that many pros and nearly all amateurs simply did not have the muscle to push a 12 around. Remember Eddy Merckx used a top of 53x13. It did not make him slow. Modern riders simply pedal at slower rpm. In one of OP's queries he asks about being efficient. Pretty much all coaches in vintage era would have told you a faster spin with lower gears is always better. Stories of low gear feats were always popular. For example Sean Kelly won most of his sprints in his favorite gear of 52x15. Kelly would laugh at anyone told him he needed an 11. If you ride a vintage bike may as well strive for vintage rpm.
“Basic training. Do what you can do and a lot of it.” I think this will be my training mantra. I also really like the points you’ve made with vintage gearing and how speed was achieved. Thanks, 63rickert. Definitely a good perspective I think I’ve been needing.
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Old 10-08-18, 07:39 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by ThermionicScott
If your 52T big ring means you have a top gear or two that you never use, you're on the right track here. An RX100 double will be 130 BCD. I did the same thing with my 105 crank.
ThermionicScott, thanks for showing me that it works! It’s greatly appreciated! I’m thinking of maybe modifying my training & maybe also modifying my gears. I’m going to start with the training & see where it takes me first. Thanks again!
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Old 10-08-18, 08:01 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by DonRocinante
.. When I am riding in a group, I am in my top gear while the other guys have three and four gears left to go.
It doesn't quite work out that way.
11T is the smallest a standard cassette goes. If you're in 13T and they're in 11T, that's a max of two gears away. Several cassettes start at 12T, which would put them only one gear away.
Originally Posted by DonRocinante
.. When I am riding in a group, I am in my top gear ... If they want to start turning it out, I have to really step it out to keep up. When I’m in my top gear and they are not, our cadence is the same. When they hit their top gear, I am almost at a sprint just to keep up.
If you have about basic pedalling skills, a 53:13 will take you to 32+ mph. That's a decent speed. Even for a group ride, you need to be pretty good to keep that up even under good conditions.
If going faster is your goal - and you have the legs to do it, fitting another cassette with a smaller smallest sprocket will do that for you w/o replacing the chainrings. A 12T smallest will get you within 1 mph of "their" speed at a set cadence. An 11T will make your theoretical max higher than "theirs".
Originally Posted by DonRocinante
When I’m picking up speed & im on my sixth rear sprocket (7speed cassette) I over power it so I switch to my seventh. I keep my cadence & then have to put more power into it stride by stride until I have to back off a gear. When I do, I go back to pedaling with a resistance that is too low again. Any insight into this?
Going to a compact crankset is unlikely to change that. Most cassettes that start at 13T goes 13-1-4-15. The difference in gain ratio between running such a cassette from a 53 or 50 is really small. Even if you have one that goes from 13-15, replacing the cassette is a better option than replacing the crankset.
If your sweet spot is between gears, either train some more or look into "half-step gearing".
Sounds like you should get some pedals and shoes with a retention system, then work on pedalling technique rather than bicycle technology.

Last edited by dabac; 10-08-18 at 02:18 PM.
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Old 10-08-18, 08:21 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by dabac
It doesn't quite work out that way.
11T is the smallest a standard cassette goes. If you're in 13T and they're in 11T, that's a max of two gears away. Several cassettes start at 12T, which would put them only one gear away.

If you have about basic pedalling skills, a 53:13 will take you to 32+ mph. That's a decent speed. Even for a group ride, you need to be pretty good to keep that up even under good conditions.
If going faster is your goal - and you have the legs to do it, fitting another cassette with a smaller smallest sprocket will do that for you w/o replacing the chainrings. A 12T smallest will get you within 1 mph of "their" speed at a set cadence. An 11T will make your theoretical max higher than "theirs".

Going to a compact crankset is unlikely to change that. Most cassettes that start at 13T goes 13-1-4-15. The difference in gain ratio between running such a cassette from a 53 or 50 is really small. Even if you have one that goes from 13-15, replacing the cassette is a better option than replacing the crankset.
If your sweet spot is between gears, either train some more or look into "half-step gearing".
Sounds like you should get some pedals and shoes with a retention system, then work on pedalling technique rather than bicycle technology.
Thanks again, dabac! I’ve got a lot to ponder & a lot to learn, but with what you & the others have shared with me, I’m getting there! I’m thinking king that I will start with modifying my training first. I’ll juat have to see where that leads me before I make any adjustments.
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Old 10-08-18, 09:24 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by DonRocinante

Okay, so it’s not my gears as much as it is my “engine?” So far most of what I’m hearing is either change either the front or the rear or both OR train better. I really appreciate these points of view & will think it over while im training in these specific areas. I’m a huge fan of training & obviously didn’t have to change any gear when I ran. I just had to work on my engine. Thanks again!
Yeah, honestly that's what it sounds like. Those base miles BTW traditionally start Jan 1, and are done in low gear, concentrating on spinning in a lower gear than seems appropriate, like about a 65 to 70". Pace not hard but not easy. Spin spin spin. After a couple months your cruise speed will be very fast, and your spin will be easy. Then start pushing it with speed work and fast rides. Everyone responds to training differently, and the mix between base and speed can vary, but I kind of think the modern mantra of all intervals all the time is wrong. Anyway, your attitude is exactly what you need to train effectively. Be stubborn.

Changing gears is much easier to do by swapping cassettes, which wear out anyway.
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Old 10-08-18, 11:23 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by DonRocinante

Thanks again, dabac! I’ve got a lot to ponder & a lot to learn, but with what you & the others have shared with me, I’m getting there! I’m thinking king that I will start with modifying my training first. I’ll juat have to see where that leads me before I make any adjustments.
Yes, I suspect your gearing is just fine. You may benefit from learning to use the gearing you have more effectively.
Most people need to change gearing because they have steep hills, and their lowest gear is not low enough.
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Old 10-08-18, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine
Yeah, honestly that's what it sounds like. Those base miles BTW traditionally start Jan 1, and are done in low gear, concentrating on spinning in a lower gear than seems appropriate, like about a 65 to 70". Pace not hard but not easy. Spin spin spin. After a couple months your cruise speed will be very fast, and your spin will be easy. Then start pushing it with speed work and fast rides. Everyone responds to training differently, and the mix between base and speed can vary, but I kind of think the modern mantra of all intervals all the time is wrong. Anyway, your attitude is exactly what you need to train effectively. Be stubborn.

Changing gears is much easier to do by swapping cassettes, which wear out anyway.
Thanks again, Salamandrine. I really do appreciate the different perspective!
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Old 10-08-18, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Homebrew01
Yes, I suspect your gearing is just fine. You may benefit from learning to use the gearing you have more effectively.
Most people need to change gearing because they have steep hills, and their lowest gear is not low enough.
Thanks for all the advice Homebrew01! Now that I now what to focus on, I can save myself some money & put more time into some sweat equity!
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Old 10-08-18, 07:00 PM
  #42  
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The problem as you've described it doesn't make any sense to me. It also sounds as though you don't understand the concept of selecting the proper gear. Basically, you should change gears until your cadence (rate that your cranks spin) to a rate of 60 to 90 rpm pretty much all the time. If you want to go faster, spin faster until you reach about 90 rpm then shift up one gear. If the going gets too hard such that your cadence drops to 60 or below then shift down one gear. That's all there is to it. That method keeps you in the most efficient zone all the time.

In your current gearing, 90 rpm in your current top gear is 29 mph, which would be very difficult if not impossible to sustain on the flats of Florida where you apparently live. Save that top gear for jaunts to places where there are downhills. Your post suggests that you want to be able to ride faster, but you also suggested reducing your large chainring, which would mean that your actual top speed would be slower. There's absolutely no need for you to change chainrings IMHO. Take a look at this gear calculator that I've set up with your gearing. Bicycle Gear Calculator I've set it up to compare your setup to probably a typical modern setup that your buddies are riding. Click in each of the two upper windows to select one of the setups and then move the cogs around at the bottom of the screen.

Try switching the 52 to a 50...no difference really, except that you lose top end. Note also that your buddies with new bikes probably are sporting 11 tooth small cogs and 50 tooth large cogs which would be the equivalent of you getting a 60 tooth large chainring. Those high gears are only useful for steep downhill with the wind behind you so utterly useless in Florida. That's why they still have 3 (useless) gears left when you are in top gear.
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Old 10-09-18, 08:08 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by davester
The problem as you've described it doesn't make any sense to me. It also sounds as though you don't understand the concept of selecting the proper gear. Basically, you should change gears until your cadence (rate that your cranks spin) to a rate of 60 to 90 rpm pretty much all the time. If you want to go faster, spin faster until you reach about 90 rpm then shift up one gear. If the going gets too hard such that your cadence drops to 60 or below then shift down one gear. That's all there is to it. That method keeps you in the most efficient zone all the time.


In your current gearing, 90 rpm in your current top gear is 29 mph, which would be very difficult if not impossible to sustain on the flats of Florida where you apparently live. Save that top gear for jaunts to places where there are downhills. Your post suggests that you want to be able to ride faster, but you also suggested reducing your large chainring, which would mean that your actual top speed would be slower. There's absolutely no need for you to change chainrings IMHO. Take a look at this gear calculator that I've set up with your gearing. Bicycle Gear Calculator I've set it up to compare your setup to probably a typical modern setup that your buddies are riding. Click in each of the two upper windows to select one of the setups and then move the cogs around at the bottom of the screen.


Try switching the 52 to a 50...no difference really, except that you lose top end. Note also that your buddies with new bikes probably are sporting 11 tooth small cogs and 50 tooth large cogs which would be the equivalent of you getting a 60 tooth large chainring. Those high gears are only useful for steep downhill with the wind behind you so utterly useless in Florida. That's why they still have 3 (useless) gears left when you are in top gear.
Hi davester,

Let me clear up the confusion I've caused you & try to make my post sensible for you.


I talked about my speed when I've ridden in a group & when I've ridden alone. In my original post, I said, "...I realize I will never gain the leg strength I need to hit my top speed..." I have been a runner since I was 10. I have damaged the growth plates in both knees. I know my limitations & whether I am running, cycling, swimming or in the gym training a client or doing my own workouts, there is a limit that I have to recognize so I don't cause myself further injuries. I am actually rehabbing from one now. So, when I am in my top gear (my large front chainring is actually a 53t and my smallest rear is a 13t) & I am in a sprint, trying to beat MY best time, it is hard for me to be able to maintain that pace long enough to beat my previous best speeds, hence the term I called "wussyitis" as I am accusing myself of being a whiner although I actually do hit it again & again until I beat my time while ignoring the limitations I've mentioned. It is who I am. There is a long straightaway that I use for this & my times have been getting faster. The first time I recorded myself on both my cycloputer & on the Strava app, I was at 24mph & did that speed for 1/4 of a mile. I've beaten that speed by hitting 32.7mph & I want to extend the distance I can ride at that speed, even though "your current top gear is 29 mph, which would be very difficult if not impossible to sustain on the flats of Florida where you apparently live." This is for me. It is my goal. I'm not trying to be a pro, I'm not competing with anyone other than myself when I do this. It is simply a goal that I have as I beat my previous ones. That is what this post was made for. I wanted to know from experienced cyclists if this is possible & if my ideas are feasible.


For the rest of the trail that I ride on there are other long & flat straightaways & I have different goals for different segments of it. I also am trying to beat my overall time, whether I ride for 14, 20, or 26 miles. In the segments in which I am not trying to sprint, I shift to lower gears when the resistance I have is too great for me to maintain what I had thought of as my "pace" or my "stride." I now know that this is referred to as the "cadence." Also, when the resistance I am experiencing is too low & my cadence increases, I shift to a higher gear to keep that same cadence. "And that is all there is to it." I have mentioned this phenomenon in different replies in this post, but thank you for taking the time to explain this anyway.


I have also mentioned that when I am riding in a group it was pointed out to me by one of the other cyclists that while we were gabbing away at 20mph, I was in my top gear while that person said "I still have three or four gears" &, "we're at the same cadence." While talking about this with him & the others in the group as we kept our moderate pace, the difference in our gearing was mentioned. They also concurred with each other that sprinting in my top gear would be difficult to do for any real distance while for them it is easier because or their gearing. While I am my chief competitor, I will NOT be the slow guy. I don't care what that may imply about me.


So, WHEN I am at a sprint, I want to be able to maintain it for a longer period at a faster speed, for me & me alone. When I am riding in a group I want to be able to keep up with the cadence knowing that if we decide to sprint or at least speed up, that I will be able to do this without running out of energy as quickly because, I know myself well enough to know that bad knees & back & shortness of breath can be damned, I will push through it. I am willing to explore the idea of changing my equipment or my training in order to do this. This is how I am. No, I am not the fastest. No, I won't be. Yes, I am competitive. With myself, mostly, but with others as well. No apologies. And yes, I grasp the concept of when it is time to change my gears, even when I don't care to & would prefer to stand up & hammer it out because I can or because I know that I can't & am stubborn enough to defy my own limitations just to tell myself that I did it. If this makes no sense, I understand. If it seems careless or irresponsible or that it is an unhealthy approach, I understand. All that I can say is "All the way!" It's an Airborne thing...


Thank you for the chart. I am sure this will be a great learning tool for me and, like I can calculate Stroke Volume & the Alveolar Air Equation among other formulas, I am confident that I am am able to understand that concept as well. I hope that this paraphrased explanation makes more sense to you.


Ride safely

Last edited by DonRocinante; 10-09-18 at 08:19 AM. Reason: Forgot something
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Old 10-09-18, 08:26 AM
  #44  
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I've read the entire thread. Three things:

- stay out of the big ring and learn to spin
- a 53 to 50T change is 3%. Not much benefit for the expense. Use a gear calculator to find a better range "offset" for your high register. Why not a 10% drop to 48T? Again, use the calculator to see where the 39T range overlaps, because 47 or 46 might be better.
- if you change the outer chain ring, don't use a 10-speed model that you showed on Amazon. Use Google to learn where to find a 7 or 8-speed 130 bcd compatible chain ring from the correct era. They're everywhere and cost less.
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Old 10-09-18, 09:45 AM
  #45  
DonRocinante
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Originally Posted by Phil_gretz
I've read the entire thread. Three things:

- stay out of the big ring and learn to spin
- a 53 to 50T change is 3%. Not much benefit for the expense. Use a gear calculator to find a better range "offset" for your high register. Why not a 10% drop to 48T? Again, use the calculator to see where the 39T range overlaps, because 47 or 46 might be better.
- if you change the outer chain ring, don't use a 10-speed model that you showed on Amazon. Use Google to learn where to find a 7 or 8-speed 130 bcd compatible chain ring from the correct era. They're everywhere and cost less.
Phil_gretz,
Thank you. I’ve gotten a lot of really informative replies & it is greatly appreciated as I try to learn as much as I can before making any changes. I will absolutely be using a gear calculator now that I know there is such a thing, & thank you for pointing out that the ring I have been lookin at is a 10 speed. I would have hated to find that out later!

Okay, stupid question for my own clarification: when you say to stay out of the big ring & learn to spin, if I’m riding for 20 miles or so, do it all on the small ring?
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Old 10-09-18, 12:00 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by DonRocinante
Okay, stupid question for my own clarification: when you say to stay out of the big ring & learn to spin, if I’m riding for 20 miles or so, do it all on the small ring?
Yeah, with an old school 42T, you can just keep it in the small ring all the time. It might feel weird for a while. You should be able to ride easily at about 20mph in say a 42x17, but work up to it over time if you're not there yet. Check or have someone else check your saddle height. If it's too high, you won't be able to spin. Try doing it for 50 miles.

Good form and an effective high cadence will improve your top sprint speed. Another way to improve your form and speed is to ride a fix for a month or two, traditionally in the winter.
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Old 10-09-18, 12:07 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by Salamandrine
Yeah, with an old school 42T, you can just keep it in the small ring all the time. It might feel weird for a while. You should be able to ride easily at about 20mph in say a 42x17, but work up to it over time if you're not there yet. Check or have someone else check your saddle height. If it's too high, you won't be able to spin. Try doing it for 50 miles.

Good form and an effective high cadence will improve your top sprint speed. Another way to improve your form and speed is to ride a fix for a month or two, traditionally in the winter.
Thanks again, Salamandrine
Im really liking this forum, its like having both technical & mechanical coaches to talk to while learning how to ride the way that I want to!
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Old 10-09-18, 12:28 PM
  #48  
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A couple of points. If you want to go faster, you need to up the power, not the force on the pedals. Max power for most trained cyclists happens at 100 RPM or higher.. Let's say you are averaging 27 mph for your 20 mile ride (a touch under 45 minutes). To maintain 100 RPM, you need to stay in a gear no higher than 52-15. The best way to do that is to do all your (non rest day) riding at over 100 RPM. Get your legs used to spinning that fast so it becomes natural, Then on your go fast days, you can spin that 100 RPM (or faster) in that 52-15. Maybe even get to spinning that gear in a 14.

Trying to do the max effort every time out will keep you in a place of over-trained and under-performing. Also setting yourself up for chronic injuries. If you take the approach above, the best part will be watching the records fall and the late ride speeds far exceed what you used to be able to do. (Early on in those big efforts, you will feel under-gears and it is too easy. I learned in my racing that the guys I could dust were those I could stay with in a lower gear.)

Ben
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Old 10-09-18, 12:36 PM
  #49  
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Hi Don,

Although you tried to explain your thoughts in more detail, you didn't hit on the part of your post that didn't make sense to me. That was, you were hoping for a higher top speed but seemed to be stating that could be accomplished by reducing your large chainring from 52 to 50. I was puzzled because that reduction would reduce, not increase, your possible top speed, all other things being equal.
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Old 10-09-18, 01:56 PM
  #50  
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The OP posed the basic question of am I better off with different gears given what my goal is. There was a lot of good advice offered. There is another specific advantage of going from 53 to 50 that I didn't see discussed and that is the fact that at the same cadence, the speed differences are smaller when you shift by one cog in the back. This makes a noticeable difference and is the primary reason I always ran a 50 large ring when I road raced, way before it was popular to do so.

The OP mentioned one type of group riding where he noted, or believed, that his riding partners had more gears than he did at a given speed. I think a number of responders pointed out that wasn't the issue. But note that group riding asks your legs to do a lot of adjusting of power. Sure the cadence may seem constant but the power you are putting out is varying quite a bit as you constantly adjust to the speed of the group, the slight changes in elevation and wind and so forth. We all experience this and all you have to do is look at a power file of someone riding in a group to see it. So as I am doing all of this adjusting and I shift my 50 front ring from say the 15 to the 14 in back, I have a smaller change in speed vs. cadence compared to someone with a 53. In other words, at the same cadence I get a smaller increase in speed when I shift. To some that sounds like a disadvantage but it is actually not. How do people add speed, especially in a group or friendly race situation? They could shift and keep the same cadence. But it is actually more common to just add a bit of cadence. And I'm specifically not talking about a true race attack, just an upping of the pace. If you use a speed/cadence calculator it isn't hard to notice there is a much bigger difference by going from 90 to 100 rpm than there is in shifting one gear cog. At the speeds he was describing, adding just 5 rpm is about the same as one tooth smaller in back. One thing you always notice about a well trained road cyclist is how easily they do these small adjustments of power and cadence at relatively high speeds without wearing themselves out in the first 30 minutes.

So unless you are riding in a velodrome with no wind, your gearing is a tool you are using to help you respond to the real world around you. That is why I prefer a 50 over a 53. (And back in my road race days I could stay in the big ring just a bit longer on false flats and 3-4% grades.)
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