SeattleJG

Are you referring to what I posted, or the OP? In my case, the cassette, smallest cog and lock ring were all purchased as new stock at my LBS. Only my hub/hub body are the original from my 1991 bike.

dddd

Certainly there are many cases where a re-spaced hub can be built into a still-very-strong wheel having a bit more dish, as long as the rigidity of the chosen rim and the other wheel-build parameters (like spoke count, spoke gauge and appropriate tension) are considered.
Also the size of the rider (and the usage conditions) can weigh huge on the viability of any reductions in dish.

silferion

That's the issue. The hub and such. Here in my place, almost all classic and vintage bikes have busted parts and only the frame can be salvaged. I can obtain some original parts overseas but the cost is just too much for me.

dddd

Just wanted to add to this thread that, at this point, I have put many hilly rides on my 126mm-spaced Klein Performance (with the 10s, 12-30t cassette held on to the un-modified 7s HG Tri-color hub using a longer-threaded SRAM 11s ALLOY lockring).

The SRAM 11t aluminum cassette lockrings have longer threads so one is free to file away the teeth under the lockring's flange (for even greater threaded engagement) since an 11t lockring meets only the smooth steel of the bottom of the recess in the 1st-position 12t cog.

I recently used one of the SRAM 11t alloy lockrings (having the teeth filed away) to repair a bike that had completely stripped threads inside of it's alloy freehub body, and found that I could easily get 2+ turns of tightening torque on the longer SRAM alloy lockring (which is plenty). The repair saved the bike's rear wheel since it was an older, paired-spoke, Chinese-made Vuelta wheelset for which freehub bodies are not available.

delbiker1 

I used a 10 speed Shimano cassette with 126 rear spacing for quite a while. It was paired with 1050 derailleur and dt levers using friction mode. I really did not like using the dt levers as much as sti's, ergo, I spread the back end to 130 and mounted 10 sti's. I no longer have the bike. I am presently using 11 speed cassette with 6400 bar end levers, again in friction mode, but it is a Poprad with original 130 spacing. The shifting is excellent.
I also used a 10 speed cassette on a Fuji Ace that had 120 spacing. That was literally a pain to get the wheel on and off. I spread it to 130 with no issues. I have that bike no longer either. Both bikes were given to nephews, nothing wrong with them, I am lowering the number of bikes that I have.

dddd

This older thread is really about using a 10s cassette on a 126mm-spaced freehub, not about putting a 130mm-spaced hub into a narrow-spaced frame.

Just wanted to clarify.

There are instances (such as with stiff, heat-treated aluminum frames, or bonded frames) where cold-setting is out of the question and where forcing a wheel into a narrower frame may not seem like a good choice.

There are different approaches though, such as possibly narrowing a 130mm hub (to 128 or so?), or using a narrowed, N+1-speed cassette (but which may incur an unwanted "ghost" shift click if the shifter is indexed).
Beware that a "locked out" ghost shift click above the largest-cog position (allowed by cable elasticity) will often cause an STI shifter to completely lock up until the cable is slackened using a wrench.

tangerineowl

https://www.velobase.com/ViewCompone...1-5ac2756c95d4

From above link: "The lock nuts are tapered to facilitate installing the 130mm hub in a 126mm spacing frame."

Which -if any- of the three freehub model options [on that DA SIS hub body] at the above link, would still allow the 10sp Ultegra cassette to fit on a 126mm rear?

(Was close to purchasing an old TriColor 126mm hub, but now wondering if this certain Dura Ace model would also work).

Kontact 

The correct freehub body to convert DA 7400 hubs are long gone. The hub/freehub connection was particular to 7400 and not shared with other lines.

Current Shimano 11 speed hubs are just dished further over to make room for the freehub, so there is nothing wrong with taking an 8/9/10 hub and dishing it over the same 2mm to make a 126 out of it.

tangerineowl

Thanks.
What I was getting at, is I've seen some Dura Ace 8 SIS hubs i.e. body and freehub complete, for sale.
Going by the description of each of the three freehubs [on the SIS body] mentioned at the Velobase link, I'm not quite certain which would work with the 10sp Ultegra cassette, on a 126mm frame.

KCT1986

Of the 3 74xx series bodies, only the 8 speed is designed for a Hyperglide style cassette, with a standard lockring. The older DA used a Uniglide style cassette, with an even less common sized threaded outer sprocket to hold it together,

And even the 8 sp FH axle assembly is different, and used unusual sized locknuts that would mean it would need to be replaced to shorten the OLD to 126mm.

Kontact 

I had thought, since there were 8 speed Uniglide cassettes, there was an early 8 speed freehub body that wouldn't accept a lockring.

Is that not the case?

KCT1986

Yes, there was an 8 speed Uniglide model, FH-7402. My post wasn't clear in specifying which version of the two 8 speed freehubs was a possible option, (of the three versions that the poster was looking at on Velobase).

The later FH-7403 is the version that can accept a Hyperglide cassette or a Uniglide cassette with the larger type of outermost sprocket threads, (think Ultegra/105...).

Both of the 8 speed versions were 130mm OLD, and used an unusual locknut on the NDS axle that would need to be replaced to get to 126mm.

.

tangerineowl

Thanks for explaining things.

rccardr 

Just FYI in case anyone is interested, I have several sets of Dura Ace 7403 and Ultegra/Tricolor 8 speed hubs in my workshop. I know these can be hard to find in good condition and have been collecting them for builds for years.
These have all been fully serviced and are ready to build up. Internals are all very nice- I'd use them myself.

• One pair of 6402 UG/HG hubs, 32 hole, with skewers
• One pair of 6402 UG/HG hubs, 32 hole, no skewers
• One pair of 6402 UG/HG wheels, 32 hole, with Matrix rims that are basically NOS, with skewers
• One pair of Dura Ace 7403 UG/HG hubs. 32 hole rear, 36 hole front, one skewer. Might have another pair of 32 hole 7403 32 hole hubs without skewers, have to check.

Happy to do the conversion to 126mm for a buyer, have the requisite narrower locknuts for the DA and will include the originals in case the buyer would like to go back to 130mm in the future.
Shoot me a PM to discuss or give me a shout at rccardr@cox.net.

icemilkcoffee 

Now that this thread is resurrected, I want to add that the new 12 speed cassette comes with a lock ring with deeper threads:

So if you are running out of lock ring threads after putting the 10 speed cassette on the 7 speed hub, this is something to try.

dddd

Good observation!

As I mentioned earlier, some of the SRAM alloy, 11t lockrings have longer threading, and I've even used them to literally save a boutique wheelset that had some of the threads stripped out of the freehub body.

I used an (albeit rare) steel SR-Suntour 11s cassette lockring on my Klein 10s conversion (the threads were very long), using a 12-30t cassette.

Since there are no knurl serrations where an 11t lockring meets a 12t cog's annular recess, the use of Loctite on the threads is highly recommended.

A lot of today's bikes have barely 2 full turns of rotational engagement at the cassette lockring, even when the freehub body and/or the lockring itself is made of aluminum.
So apparently, two full turns is all that is needed to sustain the nearly 30 ft-lbs of torque that is prescribed for tightening these lockrings.

Note that since the knurling along the peripheral flange of the 11t lockring engages no such knurling within the annular recess of a 12t cog, you can increase the threaded engagement by nearly one full turn simply by filing away the knurl ribs on the lockring's flange. I've found this useful to achieve two full turns of threaded engagement in some cases.