JohnDThompson 

An '84 Trek 760 should handle 28mm wide tires no problem, maybe even 32mm.

What is the seat lug on the OP's bike? If it has the seat stays attached to the sides of the lug, 32mm should be fine. If it has the more modern investment cast "fastback" lug, it might be a little tighter. Measure the width of the stay separation at the tire radius to be sure.

USAZorro

I bought an LHT about the time I was giving up on the 760. It was well made and very stable. However, it felt equally as "dead" to me as the 760. It was also HEAVY. Perhaps I would have loved it if I wanted a true Tourer, but I didn't.

People have different preferences, but I've found that 1970's Raleigh Internationals and Competitions are spirited riders that adapt to multiple configurations very readily - and which accommodate "fatties", and which go up hills and weigh 3-5 pounds less than did the LHT when all built up. They can be found for considerably less $$ than a new LHT also.

jethin

Yeah, well, that's just, like, your opinion, man. Do what you like, eh?

I suppose it's a terrible idea to call John out on fitting 32mm tires in a 760, but that's what I'm gonna do. Like most fools I will never admit to being wrong, but visual evidence of actual 32mm measured 700c tires might cause me to raise an eyebrow.

Phil_gretz

Yup. That's the deal with the LHT. People don't talk about it, but it's a real thing. Dead feel.

ironwood

I'd recommend the 650B option. A nice 650Bx38mm tire like the Paris Moto or Compass (René Herse) Loup Loup pass would help smooth out our lousy, bumpy, pot holed, so-called streets. If you like the feel of them, order a custom that will fit 42mm tires from a local builder.

jethin

Ok, I’m going to clarify my points and then check out. 1) If you’re considering modding a race bike for more “general” riding (fat tires, carrying loads, upright position, etc) also consider trying a different frameset. 2) For many folks a modern frameset will offer some advantages (and some disadvantages). 3) Everybody is different — do what works for you. Good luck op, go for a ride!

ridethecliche

Hi Zorro!

I'm pretty sure we interacted a fair bit when I built that bike the first time around almost 10 years ago. Hope you're well! I recall your bike I think. It was part of the inspiration for mine. I honestly did enjoy riding mine a fair amount back in the day, but it was definitely pretty flexy, especially compared to the CAAD9. I weigh 175-180 now vs the 150-155 I did when I raced in college.

I sold my 1984 Trek 520 to a friend in Boston that had his commuter bike stolen. That bike was built up as a tourer. I used to get a metric ton of groceries on it using panniers. No delusions of doing that with this build.

It was sad to split up the 'twins' though... But I hadn't ridden the bike in ages and a friend needed a bike to get around. That was a great setup.
1X8 with a bar end shifter and a chainguard for a big ring with an old deore MTB RD. Ultegra crankset with octalink bb. Smooth as buttahhh.

But not for this bike.

Haha yeah, not sure where that came from!

Okay, those are some good thoughts.

1) Not looking to really carry loads unless you're referring to my caboose. The frame looks like it has space for 32's. I've ridden 28's on it for years. I don't think putting some slightly thicker road tires will ruin the geometry of the bike in any way. My thoughts are either to sell this bike as is or mod it so I can ride it again. I don't think I'm going to get much for it. I only got 500 for my CAAD9 with DA7800. I figure I might get 400-500 for this bike with SSFG setup.

2) Totally agree with you re: modern frames. I think I want that too... maybe. But if I'm going to sell this bike I want to atleast enjoy it again first and give it a new lease ya know?

Salamandrine 

IMHO a carbon fork is a waste of money if the objective is a smoother ride.

For a real difference, change the tires. Go to 28 or even 32 if they fit. Some brands/models will feel smoother within the same size.

A Ti railed saddle also makes some difference, at least when seated. Titanium is springier than steel, and you can feel the difference.

jethin

I hear ya brother. It sounds like you know what you're doing and what you want. So I'm going to go ahead and entrust your bike to you at this point.

PS: For my money tires are a good way to improve ride quality. Folks here generally seem to like Compass' offerings among others...

USAZorro

Hi. I'm doing well. I passed along the Trek 760 I'd purchased from CL and got a free paint job from Dr. Deltron on quite a few years back. Despite the lightness and the Dura-Ace componentry that were on it, I never liked riding it as much as the Bob Jackson I had picked up for a song, Actually, both of them were a bit small for me, but for whatever reason, (maybe it was just the tires), I just never got the good feeling with that bike that I had with some others.

Now that I know what I DO like, I have built a bit of a themed collection around it. Getting settled in a new home this summer and have yet to get out on the road, but it will happen before we get far into fall.

Good luck sorting it out with your Trek. I have about 5 pounds on you at the moment, and I've become a bit fanatical about quality, higher volume tires. They are transformational - at least for me, and the way I prefer to ride.

HTupolev

I would strongly recommend against an LHT (or any beefy road tourer) unless you're planning on riding with a heavy rear load. Their frames are optimized for rear-load stability, not pedaling.

My VO Campeur handles lively enough, but when I use it for spirited riding, I can't find a power stroke that brings the frame to life.

jethin

Guys, the whole LHT thing started because of an offhand comment I made. I thought from a quick reading of the thread that the op was interested in more of an all arounder for longer rides. So I apologize for confusion, but maybe we could let it die? Maybe the touring forum would be a better place for opinions on the LHT?

ridethecliche

I forgive you!

(If you help me find some parts that is!)

Paul J

John, looking at the pictures of the bike it has the Investment Cast seat lug so might be limited to 28c.

One of the things that made the Trek 760/770 frame not as desirable for racing in the day was the geometry which was more road racing verses the Crit bike many were making at that time. This bike has more relaxed angles and a lower bottom bracket which looks to be the perfect set up for what the OP. This bike was very well made with a beautiful hand made fork. If build it up and ride the deal out of the think.☺

At the time this bike was built I was scheduled the production and John was building some of the awesome proto-types and we were scrounging up the parts for my Lunar Cycles track bike as an after hours moonlighting project.☺

ridethecliche

I don't quite understand the last bit of your post, but wanted to thank you for the geometry info. I also wanted to add that I actually bought this bike out in PA. Possibly in lancaster area!

ridethecliche

I don't think the pictures are showing up, but here's what I had the bike set up as when I raced on it in college a few times. Sorry about the obnoxious watermark.



Come to think of it... it'd be kind of nice to do this over again! I had the campy stuff working with shimano wheels/cassette and could get a shiftmate now to make it work even better.

Paul J

Sorry, on the last part, John and I both worked at Trek when your frame was built and I was reminiscing a bit. Lancaster has a very active cycling community and great roads to ride.

JohnDThompson 

Paul was also working at Trek at the time, and I built him a nice track frame:

ryansu

OP +1 on give it a new lease and ride it, what do have to lose? As for parts you can check the sales forum here of course and the bay but if you have a Co-op near you (and I have to think there are a few in the Boston Metroplex) that may be a good source of parts for you. Have fun.

ridethecliche

No longer in the Beantown area.

Sales forum here is pretty sparse but....

I just impulse bought used ultegra 6700 shifters with 105 FD/RD and a 11-32 cassette.

Now to find a compact crank!

The cassette might be a bit much, to be honest, so I'll likely end up using a 12-25 or 12-27. Too much space between gears I would think...

Hoping to find a 50/34 or 50/36. crankset.

Cycle Tourist

Jethin has a point. Whatever money you spend on a "racing" frame will never make much of a difference. Short chainstays and wheelbase and an upright geometry will do you in.
Turning a hybrid or sport bike into a tourer will be much easier, cheaper and more satisfying in the long run. Wider tires and a longer wheelbase will give you the comfort you crave. Here's a used Nashbar hybrid conversion that ended up costing a couple hundred.(minus the saddle).

ridethecliche

I have zero interest in doing any of the things that you mention. We've already established this.

Glad you're enjoying that bike and that it's doing what you want of it!

Cycle Tourist

Oops. I just read the comments about not wanting a touring bike. Oh well. I still see a "new"more laid back bike in your future.

ridethecliche

You mean like buying another 1984 trek 520 that I sold to a friend after his commuter got stolen?

I'll likely end up with a relaxed geometry modern bike like a synapse or domane in addition to this bike. I'd rather do it with this bike now instead of waiting though.

And no harm no foul. Input welcome!

Cycle Tourist

Thanks. I suppose your right about the 520. I'm not a modern bike guy. I'd more likely be looking for a Nishiki, Miyata, Univega, Panasonic type sport bike. I see them on CL sometimes for 1 or 1:50. The 520 is a bit sadate even for me. I prefer my Klein Performance.