Mid-drive with Rohloff rear hub?
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Mid-drive with Rohloff rear hub?
Are there many mid-drive e-bike riders using internal 14-speed Rohloff rear hub?
Any extra wear to the Rohloff transmission or chain when combined human pedal power & electric mid-drive motor?
How does extra weight of Rohloff rear hub/wheel compare with a hub-motor rear wheel?
Any extra wear to the Rohloff transmission or chain when combined human pedal power & electric mid-drive motor?
How does extra weight of Rohloff rear hub/wheel compare with a hub-motor rear wheel?
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It won't be cheap. But it's been done. Torque at the drop outs would be something to be considered to ensure you make a smart product choice. OEM Rohloff frames have a lug for the reaction arm as part of the dropout. Non-OEM hubs for retrofit have a reaction arn that clamps to the chainstay.
Also the proper shifting configuration for your frame should be considered. Some OEM frames have dual cable stops, others are designed around full cable housing run to hub, etc...
Rohloff blog post.
Also the proper shifting configuration for your frame should be considered. Some OEM frames have dual cable stops, others are designed around full cable housing run to hub, etc...
Rohloff blog post.
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I have not seen the Tern GSD R14, in real life, but it is an example of a mid-drive with Rohloff. I think it lists for $ 8400 USD and is available for pre-order.
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That some serious chunk of $$.. can get some really nice motorcycle(s) for that $$.
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Yes I generally sell mostly Rohloff equipped R+Ms to folks once they understand the benefits and ride the dang thing it is a hard thing not to want. However any mechanical shifting IGH is off the table for me. The E-14 is awesome but I didn't love regular Rohloff on an e-bike or Alfine or Nexus they are fine hubs but when you have to stop pedaling shift and start pedaling you have lost me.
It is an expensive system but it works and it works well with pretty few problems. We have had a couple occasions with issues but compared to most everything else not many and nothing really to do with the Rohloff hub just the E-14 and that was 2 out of 100+
A nice Bosch bike with a Rohloff E-14 and belt and you are pretty well set. This is my more attainable dream (with a few different cockpit parts): https://www.r-m.de/en-us/bikes/super...466_0804022629
I might also upgrade to a Fox fork and add some improved lights because I am not one for stock bikes and a Bosch e-bike is tough to get as just a frame and the e-bike gubbins and the custom manufacturers can't do the cleaner look of the integrated dual batteries and while 1000wh is plenty I want the 1250 for long trips and to tow a trailer.
It is an expensive system but it works and it works well with pretty few problems. We have had a couple occasions with issues but compared to most everything else not many and nothing really to do with the Rohloff hub just the E-14 and that was 2 out of 100+
A nice Bosch bike with a Rohloff E-14 and belt and you are pretty well set. This is my more attainable dream (with a few different cockpit parts): https://www.r-m.de/en-us/bikes/super...466_0804022629
I might also upgrade to a Fox fork and add some improved lights because I am not one for stock bikes and a Bosch e-bike is tough to get as just a frame and the e-bike gubbins and the custom manufacturers can't do the cleaner look of the integrated dual batteries and while 1000wh is plenty I want the 1250 for long trips and to tow a trailer.
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How many units of Rohloff hub equipped ebikes do you sell vs regular geared or mid-drive ebikes?
Where is your shop located?
Where is your shop located?
#9
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I have an e bike on the drawing boards that I intend to build within the next couple years that uses a Rohloff hub. Many bikes have been built this way and it seems to be a good solid system.
The intended purpose of my build would be to obtain a comfortable very long distance remote fat touring bike. I have priced it out at between $8,500 and $11,200 depending on what I decide on. Would start with a big titanium cargo frame purpose built with Bafang M620 drive and Phase Runner MT-CA3 controls. 2.9Kwh to 4.2Kwh 52 volt system. Mastodon Fork. Very strong alloy wheels, Jone's Ti riser bars, Infinity Saddle, Thompson dropper, Full fenders/lights, Ortilieb bags. The price varies because of the possibility of going with a more conventional drive train and add-ons like reverse cycle climate control and an Xtra wheel mate type trailer. In short, the ultimate touring bike.
Priorities in the wrong place. Maybe, I drive a 2wd, 2011 Ford Ranger XLT 4 banger stick shift.
The intended purpose of my build would be to obtain a comfortable very long distance remote fat touring bike. I have priced it out at between $8,500 and $11,200 depending on what I decide on. Would start with a big titanium cargo frame purpose built with Bafang M620 drive and Phase Runner MT-CA3 controls. 2.9Kwh to 4.2Kwh 52 volt system. Mastodon Fork. Very strong alloy wheels, Jone's Ti riser bars, Infinity Saddle, Thompson dropper, Full fenders/lights, Ortilieb bags. The price varies because of the possibility of going with a more conventional drive train and add-ons like reverse cycle climate control and an Xtra wheel mate type trailer. In short, the ultimate touring bike.
Priorities in the wrong place. Maybe, I drive a 2wd, 2011 Ford Ranger XLT 4 banger stick shift.
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Sounds like an interesting build, upright or recumbent? Recumbent would be better for comfort over long distance.
Nothing wrong with putting your priorities in 2-wheel vehicles. I drive a 2wd 1998 Mazda B2300 auto, with 362k mi. on odometer, still OEM engine & tranny.
Nothing wrong with putting your priorities in 2-wheel vehicles. I drive a 2wd 1998 Mazda B2300 auto, with 362k mi. on odometer, still OEM engine & tranny.
#11
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Upright, cant' stand the position of a recumbent, especially in traffic. the Infinity saddle is very comfortable.
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IME, after riding 30+ year of upright & 16+ years recumebent; no saddle is comfortable for extra long distance.
Is your build going to have a cargo frame like any below?
Is your build going to have a cargo frame like any below?
#13
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The Infinity saddle is the only saddle I have ever sat on that gets more comfortable the longer you sit on it. I often drop the seat post, put my feet on the ground and stay on the saddle for breaks.
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The GSD really should be compared to a car replacement rather than motorcycle. The Tern GSD can carry hundreds of pounds and be equipped in many configurations to do so. Not many motorcycles can carry that much stuff. I've heard that all R14's have been sold for the year, so price doesn't seem to be deterring buyers. We are car-free and have two being delivered next month.
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Well, each one of the cars I have ever owned cost less $$.. even the ones that lasted me decades & few hundred thousands of miles.. priorities, I guess.
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I read constantly about torque limits on Rohloffs. Some touring blogs even warn about limiting gearing combos with just human power. I've seen a number of ebike articles with Rohloffs so it is done. I've seen occasional posts from people who have destroyed a Rohloff with too much torque or more commonly water damage from crossing a stream. Lesser number of people who have just worn them out, but that does happen as well.
How reliable they are in a mid drive configuration is hard to tell. Rohloff's tend to elicit a religious response from the people who have invested the coin to purchase them. some of them get super defensive when people provide anything less than favorable responses.
In all honesty I would like to know. Mid edrive, Rohloff and Gate belt drive sounds like a nice set up.
How reliable they are in a mid drive configuration is hard to tell. Rohloff's tend to elicit a religious response from the people who have invested the coin to purchase them. some of them get super defensive when people provide anything less than favorable responses.
In all honesty I would like to know. Mid edrive, Rohloff and Gate belt drive sounds like a nice set up.
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I have an e bike on the drawing boards that I intend to build within the next couple years that uses a Rohloff hub. Many bikes have been built this way and it seems to be a good solid system.
The intended purpose of my build would be to obtain a comfortable very long distance remote fat touring bike. I have priced it out at between $8,500 and $11,200 depending on what I decide on. Would start with a big titanium cargo frame purpose built with Bafang M620 drive and Phase Runner MT-CA3 controls. 2.9Kwh to 4.2Kwh 52 volt system. Mastodon Fork. Very strong alloy wheels, Jone's Ti riser bars, Infinity Saddle, Thompson dropper, Full fenders/lights, Ortilieb bags. The price varies because of the possibility of going with a more conventional drive train and add-ons like reverse cycle climate control and an Xtra wheel mate type trailer. In short, the ultimate touring bike.
Priorities in the wrong place. Maybe, I drive a 2wd, 2011 Ford Ranger XLT 4 banger stick shift.
The intended purpose of my build would be to obtain a comfortable very long distance remote fat touring bike. I have priced it out at between $8,500 and $11,200 depending on what I decide on. Would start with a big titanium cargo frame purpose built with Bafang M620 drive and Phase Runner MT-CA3 controls. 2.9Kwh to 4.2Kwh 52 volt system. Mastodon Fork. Very strong alloy wheels, Jone's Ti riser bars, Infinity Saddle, Thompson dropper, Full fenders/lights, Ortilieb bags. The price varies because of the possibility of going with a more conventional drive train and add-ons like reverse cycle climate control and an Xtra wheel mate type trailer. In short, the ultimate touring bike.
Priorities in the wrong place. Maybe, I drive a 2wd, 2011 Ford Ranger XLT 4 banger stick shift.
You had the XLT package on your Ranger? Luxury! I drove the base model for a good decade, reliable vehicle.
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Also to update I have ordered my SuperCharger2 Rohloff HS with the 1250wh batteries, I didn't think I would be doing that so early in the year but I was able to get financing so it was attainable. I will eventually be able to post a long term review. However in the short term of my test riding various bikes with E-14 I was sold easily and our regulars at the shop love theirs and are putting some serious miles on them. We have one guy who has I think over 5k miles in about a year (I only know because we got to chatting when he brought it in for a tune up) and probably will put in a lot more especially now he is looking for bikes for his wife and daughter to go riding and touring. The people with the Enviolo stuff still love their bikes but are more interested in Rohloff now seeing the limitations of the system they have with their higher mileage riding.
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I read constantly about torque limits on Rohloffs. Some touring blogs even warn about limiting gearing combos with just human power. I've seen a number of ebike articles with Rohloffs so it is done. I've seen occasional posts from people who have destroyed a Rohloff with too much torque or more commonly water damage from crossing a stream. Lesser number of people who have just worn them out, but that does happen as well.
How reliable they are in a mid drive configuration is hard to tell. Rohloff's tend to elicit a religious response from the people who have invested the coin to purchase them. some of them get super defensive when people provide anything less than favorable responses.
In all honesty I would like to know. Mid edrive, Rohloff and Gate belt drive sounds like a nice set up.
How reliable they are in a mid drive configuration is hard to tell. Rohloff's tend to elicit a religious response from the people who have invested the coin to purchase them. some of them get super defensive when people provide anything less than favorable responses.
In all honesty I would like to know. Mid edrive, Rohloff and Gate belt drive sounds like a nice set up.
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The Rohloff hub is the strongest internal geared hub on the market and also has the least energy loss through friction of any internal geared system. That said it is still possible to damage it with to much torque. I have a Rohloff on a Co-Motion Pandea. I do not need to stop pedaling when I shift. A can let enough pressure of the crank without stopping my legs to shift. Shift at the top of the pedal stroke and you don't need to let of any pressure. If your going to build up a bicycle and add a Rohloff then there are some things I would pay attention to. Purchase the exterior gear mesh version of the hub. This allows you to run cable housing from the shifter to the hub without any breaks. There are glue on cable guides for frames not setup for the Rohloff. The Rohloff hub has several axle plates available. My frame uses the OEM version because my dropouts are designed for the Rohloff hub. If your frame has disk break tabs you may be able to use the OEM 2 plate with a speedbone or monkeybone. If your frame has no disk tabs then there is a torque arm setup made for that problem. I am currently looking for a Yuba Mundo bicycle frame to setup with a Rohloff and a front hub motor. If you are going to setup yours with a mid drive be carful not to over torque the Rohloff. The are 500 watt motors with 140 nm of torque. There is also a piece of hardware with electronics to back off the motor when you shift. Those ebikes with the Bosch motor and the Rohloff have a 400 watt motor in them and it produces 85 nm of torque.
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Some new tech to replace front derailleur x2 drivetrain: https://youtu.be/UFMhUYoqFyc
Why not just buy this & save $2250 Euro dollars?
177% range. Naught point 75, direct drive, & then a whole bunch more.
Surely a rim can be laced to it with some of the left over money pile?
Last edited by base2; 04-01-21 at 09:52 PM.