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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 08-02-16, 08:12 AM
  #1201  
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I'm not sure if I call 1880g weight-weenieish...

The wabi standard wheelset comes in at 1725, but they also have a sub15 wheelset that comes in at 1425. I'd call 1425 weight-weenieish.
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Old 08-02-16, 08:15 AM
  #1202  
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Originally Posted by IAmSam
Shopping for parts for a new budget-build & must admit that I do have weight-weenieish predilections (especially when it comes to wheels ) - what does the group think of Factory Five's 1880g, $189 wheelset?

https://wearefactoryfive.com/products/f5-pista-wheelset
That price is pretty dang good, although it is $60 shipping for them so factor that in as well. Not crazy about the hubs they used. I know nothing of them, but they are not that attractive looking.
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Old 08-02-16, 08:57 AM
  #1203  
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Originally Posted by IAmSam
Shopping for parts for a new budget-build & must admit that I do have weight-weenieish predilections (especially when it comes to wheels ) - what does the group think of Factory Five's 1880g, $189 wheelset?

https://wearefactoryfive.com/products/f5-pista-wheelset
24 spoke two-cross rear? With straight gauge spokes? Good luck with that.
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Old 08-02-16, 09:02 AM
  #1204  
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I'd get Forumulas X HPlus Sons all day over those.
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Old 08-02-16, 12:54 PM
  #1205  
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Originally Posted by 50voltphantom
I'd get Forumulas X HPlus Sons all day over those.
Yes! They're not weight weenieish either, but they'll take anything you can throw at them for a few dollars more.
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Old 08-02-16, 02:05 PM
  #1206  
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I have that BDop DIY wheelset. Costs $230, +1700 grams (24/28), 24 mm outer rim width. But you have to build it or pay someone to
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Old 08-02-16, 04:41 PM
  #1207  
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Thanx to all for helping me avoid a likely bad purchase...

However in response to SquidPuppet's comment - I've been riding a 24 spoke 2x rear wheel for close to 2 yrs and am quite happy with it (but it does have heavily butted spokes tho )...
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Old 08-02-16, 05:11 PM
  #1208  
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Originally Posted by SquidPuppet
24 spoke two-cross rear? With straight gauge spokes? Good luck with that.
Yeah, that's a piss-poor choice of spokes for that wheelset.
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Old 08-09-16, 10:50 AM
  #1209  
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Best helmet for track riding? I'm assuming just any road helmet would do, but not sure if there are anything specific or better suited.

Also, I think the local track requires gloves, which I've never owned before. Fingerless gloves the best way to go for warm weather?
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Old 08-09-16, 11:16 AM
  #1210  
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Originally Posted by jacobsever
Best helmet for track riding? I'm assuming just any road helmet would do, but not sure if there are anything specific or better suited.

Also, I think the local track requires gloves, which I've never owned before. Fingerless gloves the best way to go for warm weather?
Road helmet will be fine. I've been using fingerless gloves -- they're not required at my track, but encouraged, mainly so that you can hold the rail without burning your hands on hot sunny days (that thing gets reeeeal hot). Again, I just carried over the ones I use on the road.
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Old 08-10-16, 01:59 PM
  #1211  
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Hey does anyone know off the top what size clamp the stock surly creamroller stem is? Not sure if it's 25.4 or 26 but I'm trying to grab some new riser bars on my way home.
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Old 08-10-16, 02:15 PM
  #1212  
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I'm pretty sure was 25.4
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Old 08-10-16, 03:00 PM
  #1213  
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Could just err on the safe side and get 25.4 bars. If the stem is 26, it can be easily shimmed.
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Old 08-10-16, 06:23 PM
  #1214  
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What are these parts?

Tiny pieces of metal, slightly bent. They have what appears to be two sided tape on them. Shims for something?

Came with a new Shimano 105 groupset. I've no idea what they are for.


Last edited by TimothyH; 08-10-16 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 08-10-16, 06:30 PM
  #1215  
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Shims to decrease the reach of the levers for those with smaller hands.
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Old 08-13-16, 03:02 PM
  #1216  
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Originally Posted by seau grateau
Could just err on the safe side and get 25.4 bars. If the stem is 26, it can be easily shimmed.
Originally Posted by IAmSam
I'm pretty sure was 25.4
Appreciate it guys, you were right it was 25.4. I had forgotten to come back and write here.
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Old 08-15-16, 08:57 PM
  #1217  
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Originally Posted by TimothyH
What are these parts?

Tiny pieces of metal, slightly bent. They have what appears to be two sided tape on them. Shims for something?

Came with a new Shimano 105 groupset. I've no idea what they are for.

Found it in the FD-5800 dealer manual. RTFM.

They are backing plates for the support screw on the 5800/6800 front derailleur so the frame doesn't get damaged. One is curved for round tubes and the other is flat.
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Old 08-17-16, 10:47 AM
  #1218  
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Why do so many track riders ride with 167.5?
I just creamed everyone on my last class on a loaner bike, and was startled to find the loaner's crank was 172.5! Never came close to pedal striking and never had a problem. Felt GREAT in fact.

Also, why do track riders all ride with so many spokes?
If a road wheel can take railroad crossings, and curb-hoppings with so few spokes, couldn't a track bike do just fine with even fewer spokes? Are we really pulling that many G's on a 250m track's banking? (My local track is a 333.)

Also, is it illegal (or just poor taste) to ride a road wheel up front on a track bike with a quick-release?

Last edited by calamarichris; 08-17-16 at 10:56 AM.
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Old 08-17-16, 11:43 AM
  #1219  
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It is against track racing regulations to use a quick release on either wheel, but it's up to the individual track to decide if it's permitted for just open riding or training sessions. As to track arm length many pursuiters use longer crank arm lengths, even 175mm. I use 165mm on both road and track, because I have short legs and like to spin. You won't have any problem with pedal strike on a 333m track, but don't try that at my 250mm track, which has 44 degree banking in the turns.

As to spoke count, it's more about stiffness than strength, and really just pertains to the rear wheel and to powerful sprinters. My racing wheels have only 18 spokes in the front (radial), but 28 in the rear (2X) on a high flange hub.
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Old 08-17-16, 12:24 PM
  #1220  
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Originally Posted by TejanoTrackie
It is against track racing regulations to use a quick release on either wheel, but it's up to the individual track to decide if it's permitted for just open riding or training sessions. As to track arm length many pursuiters use longer crank arm lengths, even 175mm. I use 165mm on both road and track, because I have short legs and like to spin. You won't have any problem with pedal strike on a 333m track, but don't try that at my 250mm track, which has 44 degreebanking in the turns.
Gracias Guapo!
I like to spin too, but am 6'2" and feel like a shriner riding those little bitty 167.5's. Heck, my commuter has 177.5's and I spin those comfortably over 100rpm.

Guess I'll have to get a track skewer converter for my C50 front wheel.




Any idea why everyone rides with so many spokes? It's been my empirical observation that fewer spokes equal a faster wheel. And these modern spokes like the CXRays are a far cry from the stuff we used to ride in the 80's.
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Old 08-17-16, 12:38 PM
  #1221  
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Originally Posted by calamarichris
Any idea why everyone rides with so many spokes? It's been my empirical observation that fewer spokes equal a faster wheel. And these modern spokes like the CXRays are a far cry from the stuff we used to ride in the 80's.
See my edited previous post. My Cane Creek racing wheels also have CX-Rays as well as a new set of clincher wheels from HeavyPedal that I bought for a new road fixed gear build.
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Old 08-22-16, 11:09 AM
  #1222  
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I have an odd seat post diameter of 26.6mm. I want a Thomson 0 setback seat post, but they only make that size in black, and I need silver.

Would getting a 25.4 seat post with a 25.4 to 26.6 shim be safe to do?
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Old 08-22-16, 11:10 AM
  #1223  
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Yup. That's what seatpost shims are for.
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Old 09-02-16, 12:25 PM
  #1224  
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Perhaps against my better judgment, I am interested in a crabon frame. However, there's this:



My three quick questions:

- is that crack in the carbon or in the paint?
- if in the carbon, if the crack were to get bigger, would it be visible? For instance, could I mark the end of the crack with a dot of permanent marker and keep an eye on it?
- if I were to spring for carbon repair, what kind of bill would I be looking at exactly? (I assume there have been way worse cases of cracked carbon being successfully repaired)
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Old 09-03-16, 12:13 AM
  #1225  
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Originally Posted by calamarichris
Heck, my commuter has 177.5's
shoot me a PM if you ever want to sell those
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